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I can see someone asked if you have checked you do not have a faulty camera but I don't see where you've said you've tested it. Have you tried this camera on a modern television (needs to be modern as I'm not sure what these cameras output format wise) and seen the image from the camera? Find a 12V adapter (internet routers and other devices use them, centre positive), connect this to the red plug. Then connect the other two wires to a spare RCA cable and choose the correct input on the TV. You must test the camera before you throw more money at it.

Fuel cap lock doesn't affect locking (I lock my car after opening the fuel filler and itll beep). What you could also try is one by one, open each door, bonnet or tailgate, then lock the car, then shut that door/bonnet/tailgate. If the sensor/switch is intermittent you might find the location of it that way if it suddenly flashes. There may also be an "alarm information" or such data if you were to go into the central electronics module which will show why it cannot complete locking/setting of the alarm.

Do you not have car play/mirror link/android auto activated on your car? Do you have the "Smart Link" option but it is just not activated? It may be a smaller cost than you think to activate the built-in functionality of your radio, then preserving all the cars functions you also control from your screen.

I've had a rhythmic noise similar to what's described here on my CXXB 1.6 TDI engine since owning the car. No mechanic has had any idea what it may be. Timing belt / water pump change didn't change the noise at all (and nothing found on inspection of pulleys). In my case the AC doesn't affect the noise, however, I'm not sure what kind of compressor is in my car, so it may just be on at a low load (since we're not that warm a climate here in the UK!). Soon as you put load on the engine (i.e. go to move), it stops. This is different to the rev up/down of the rpm assist feature where it'll rev up and if you don't pull off in so long it'll rev back down again, rinse and repeat.

I had the same symptoms as J.R., lived with it for 5 months before it developed into a full on leak, in the end saturating the sound insulation and was warned that it was potentially a considerable fire risk if the clutch was slipped and generated enough heat. Whilst I don't have the slave cylinder in my hands, I can only assume that the CSC had a small enough hole to suck in air but not let fluid out initially, and this then developed further into a larger leak that then allowed fluid out. If you have any sort of brake fluid loss, check the join between engine and clutch housing, there is likely a drain hole there which will be dripping fluid. If it is leaking you can really exacerbate the situation by pressing the clutch pedal down and actuating it in the 25-75% area of travel. Hopefully they'll cover it either under your consumer rights or warranty, cost me £1450 at a local independent garage for clutch, CSC and DMF.

A pump learn will also prove the pump works and may indicate if the PRV is faulty. It runs the pump up to the point that the pressure relief valve opens. You can hear the pump wind up and the PRV open multiple times. I guess that's also a possibility - the PRV is stuck open (maybe from a small bit of debris). That's a cheaper fix. See here for the pump learn on an actual unit.

Or they've forgotten to refill it... Let's hope that they've not drained the rear diff by mistake! I thought a prime/reset was required after oil change / gauze cleaning (on the latest Haldex) so it could relearn it's maximum pump power?

What a bottom ache! Went to drive today, touched the clutch pedal and it shot to the floor by itself. Pull it back up, it'll shoot itself back to the floor again if you even breathe on it slightly too much. At least it's at home, I suppose it could be worse 😞 It's been absolutely fine for the past 4 months!

Had a real issue getting the replacement H7 to seat itself properly and stay put in the bulb holder, and I presume the previous owner also had trouble as I think a small piece of the headlight assembly has snapped off (the nearside has two write prongs at the top). Anyway. If you have this issue, the spring might be distorted that holds the bulb in. After faffing with it, and looking at the new part (5E0941172 - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0941172-h7-retaining-light-bulb-spring-skoda-22654.html) I figured out how to get it out. Straightened out the three bent clips slightly and reinstalled, and bulb just clicked home and is now held even firmer than the nearside. Start on one end (I can't imagine it matters), and push the edge of the clip in towards the centre of the hole. Do this for The first two and the clip will straighten and drop out. A tad fiddly getting it back in whilst the headlamp is in the car, but it is doable - saved myself a fiver for a new spring clip.

Also alter the "recirc" button, that also moves a flap. Really having a bad day when you have a problem with your flaps.

I've watched so many videos of mechanics pulling the cover off the oil sieve on the eco-boom engines with the wet belts and finding rubber debris. Surely Ford would have done the necessary engineering to figure this was a bad idea....? Or maybe it's just planned obsolesence!

So, it finally did it, it stuck (>50%) down and stayed there. Three times. All three times was when I came to finish my journey, stopped, clutch pushed down, and turned off the engine with clutch down. No idea if that's anything to do with it. Had to nudge it with my toe and it popped back up (I did not have to pull it all the way up). I have still to actually identify this cam actuator bit, but I'll be honest I'm struggling to get under the plastics, I might have to take some of them off. 10 years ago I bet I could have snaked my way into seeing it but my back really isn't up to it now ! 🙃 Also to note, it also stuck down a couple of times then popped back up whilst driving but the clutch was definitely engaged (enough to boot it from a set of lights, yes I know it's only 110hp :D).

Eventually it'll probably lodge itself in the pollen filter... Slightly better than mine, removed the A pillar trim to install a dash cam and one of the spring clips broke in two and half of it went down the bloody inside of the pillar! Luckily, it's never caused an audible problem, which is what I was worried about...

My theory would be that the climate control tries to adjust the output air temp due to the incoming (recirc) air being colder than what is being drawn in from outside. Does it feel the same when you adjust the temp up a degree or so? Does it settle after a little bit? 24 degrees is mind boggling, I had the climate control set to 16 degrees when we were in Lanzarote in a very nice 22 plate Seat Arona of all hire cars!

Interestingly enough, I always seem to notice it when pulling out of, or coming up to junctions. For instance, on my way home there is a long straight 30mph with a sudden, very steep descent onto a roundabout, resulting in braking and requiring a change down to 2nd (this is where it first did it, and I thought I had caught the edge of my right shoe on the clutch). The last time it did it, a week ago, was about 30 seconds from startup pulling out of a junction (not harshly), where it must have stopped just shy of top then came up and tapped my foot (although it didn't clunk or anything, like the clutch was fully engaged). Yet there is plenty of traffic light junctions up to that point where I will mix sitting with clutch in, and sitting with clutch out in neutral, and never seem to have an issue. I've had a quick look at the pedal box, clutch seems to be free to move, mats are in the right position in the clips and not fouling, and there isn't any free play in the clutch pedal like it's twisting or moved and getting caught, and moving it by hand I couldn't feel it being notchy or getting caught. I also had the brake fluid bled today, unsure if they did the clutch too (I forgot to ask), but as I'm almost certain the air box has to be taken off I doubt they have for what they charged me (I deep down didn't want them to do it in case the vacuum bleeder caused more issues!). There is a little part of me that is thinking I'm making this up though the rarity of it happening 😄 I will add this to the list of jobs, first off finding where it is 😁

The fluid was replaced I believe 5 years ago, but it doesn't specifically state they bled the clutch through. I'll exchange the fluid and give the clutch a bleed through - at this point I've not had to do anything other than wait a second to let the pedal return. I've also had a look at the clutch pedal pivots on the parts diagram and will go and lubricate everything that needs it. The car has 85k miles on it, and it really hasn't wanted for anything major (except the crank seal during the cambelt replacement), so I can't get too mad at it! Cheers guys!

Hi bigjohn, I believe it's an internal concentric type looking at parts diagrams. I'll get the fluid bled, hopefully it's something I can tackle myself! Cheers,

Hi all, My clutch pedal occasionally sticks half way back up the travel after changing gear. The clutch otherwise appears to work fine (noticed that it didn't follow my foot back up, and had a few hard gear changes). First few times it has done it it seemed to be when I was hard braking just prior to changing gear. It does it probably once very two or three journeys. My brake fluid is a little overdue being changed, presumably the Octavia uses the same fluid for both systems? I've not noticed a drop in the brake fluid at all. I'm going to check the pedal pivot and springs (and relube if necessary). Is there any other wisdom newer than the previous posts where it is the slave cylinder (and split design/bad o ring)? And any downside about driving it until it gets much worse? Cheers,

It does interrupt it, and it sounds like your car has been interrupting it. If it does it regularly then a regen probably takes far less time than if it's had multiple interruptions. I would suggest from the moment you notice your car trying to regen that you turn start stop off, and ensure you drive for at least 20-30 mins. Driving is not sat in traffic, and the process may be slower when doing so. If you have someone nearby with the tools to view the data you can check if you're nearing the threshold for it complaining.

I can tell you now from watching a DPF regen that start/stop working does not mean it's finished. It appears to continue a long time after that, I always turn my start stop off when it does one.

Do you know what previous owners your car had? Taxi company maybe? Could there be an insurers black box somewhere, or other kind of telematics device for a business? I'd try to find where the beeping is coming from, and then go hunting for anything that looks out of place, every control unit in the car will almost certainly have VAG logos on it, so any without are likely third party. If there's two of you with the same issue, then I bet it's some kind of telematics device/insurer black box that's been secreted behind the dash or somewhere daft.

FWIW from memory my 1.6 will do approx. 1.5 regens to each tank of fuel. Advice I've previously read (and follow) includes driving in a gear to maintain 1.5-2k rpm, once it starts (idle is at 1k rpm) it'll complete within 20 mins. Oddly the car will still start/stop during the procedure so although mine mostly doesn't work, I do turn the start/stop off when it's doing one. There is a data value you can watch if you have OBDeleven or VCDS that shows you how the regen is progressing (Ash %?) As for "ECO" mode, I can get higher MPG driving everywhere in sport mode... ECO mode my behind!

Simple stuff first, check all the hoses are in situ under the bonnet, especially hoses related to air intake / vacuum. They should all be in good nick and no cracks (check them all!). Someone else will be here hopefully who can just look into the crystal ball and know, but i'd start there.

Hi! I've just updated my unit to MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T from 0241. I was hoping it would fix the issue where the Radio doesn't turn the music volume down when Android Auto speaks out navigation instructions, and also sometimes gets confused and will not switch back to playing music when announcements/nav instructions are made, but unfortunately it still happens (when this does happen, I have to switch to radio, then back to AA for the sound to resume). Possibly just an AA bug as it DID turn music volume down when I first got the car, but now it does not unless I am both navigating with android auto, and also playing music with spotify or other android app. Is there any benefit to forcing an update to 04xx firmwares? I notice there is a 0254 firmware? But cannot find the file for it. I have the non-nav "CPUPLUS" unit.

I believe my battery is original, never issues starting it, but the start/stop rarely works now, and my cruise control generally shows the speedo with an exclamation mark when starting after being sat for a day or more (which i've hopefully worked out correctly is the battery voltage dropping slightly too low for its liking). The car does ~10k per year, mostly >25 mile journeys. After looking up the cost of a new one, I'm going to make this one last as long as it can!