AMBROSIA

You'll WILL notice the difference. Less diesel knock too probably. Also more responsive. Fixed or not don't worry keep that engine loose. Let her rip! Maybe treat it to a diesel filter as I have come across owners not changing them at all! Keep us informed. Best wishes A

Well I use a local breakers to pick parts needed for these jobs. Depending on your interior colour but look out for part number 5J0858373. Generally you'll find one in a lower spec or pre facelift motor.

At last I'am glad someone has brought this up. As stated do not be worried about giving these engines a good hammering! My 1.2 gets it. Also again oil changes are key as I have mentioned before this regen process degrades the oil and saturates it as it dumps extra fuel in the system!

Has anyone noticed it's got an early Skoda decal on the front and a facelift Skoda decal on the rear? Boot lid replaced? Anyway looks ok. Sould be showing approx 50k on the clock?

Spot on from the others. I use cataclean, millers or forte cleaners if needed. However are you using super market fuel? Try if you can to use the high premium fuel as this has near enough the same properties as the bottled cleaners. I have noticed a slight difference on engine performance and quicker regen times. I know it's a little more expensive at the pump but try it see how it goes. I seem to be using less of the additives these days. As mentioned it's absolutely key that you do not switch off while on regen mode. I've stated in another post I let mine idle then when the idle drops shut down. Another reason I do this is also to protect the turbo. As stated you can have a forced regen done but if you know anyone with VCDS they could do it for you as I have carried out only one on my own vehicle in my ownership. Don't be frightened to use a little right foot either. 5th gear on the motorway 2500rpm is roughly about 70mph. I'am little over enthusiast at times but I will open mine up. If you do basically it will take between 4 to 7 minutes to put the lamp out. Also if the the fuel level is too low the ecu will not activate regen until refuelled anyway. Let us know how you get on.

With regard to anyone's greenline model it is 'SAVING' the planet because we don't see any other diesels vehicles being hammered by the government. For example farm vehicles, freight diesel trains oh and not forgetting some ships that still use diesel to power them. Will these go electric? Some of these are allowed to be run on the 'red' stuff! Funny enough some owners like to run thier big oil burners like the TDIV6. But they probably can afford the hideous road tax. Surely these Audi Bmw Range Rover and Skoda crossover 4x4s models are churning out four times as much nox than the greenline models. The bottom line is that is does not matter what any manufacture does to improve 'emissions' it's an oil burner and putting gadgets, electronics sensors, filters will not clean them up any further. You can blame 'FORD' for introducing 'EGR system' which happened back in the '80s. You can also blame French manufactures as they are the ones that developed and refined their diesel engines and the others followed suit. But now thier government want to ban diesels in Paris by 2020! If if I had a choice again between a 1.2 three cylinder petrol engine or 1.2 diesel one. It would be diesel variant because I used loan car which was a 1.2 petrol and I was up and down the box all day and also burned double the amount of fuel due to it being very underpowered even with a turbo bolted to it! Give me a mechanical diesel pump and a throttle cable any day. But those days are gone! Having electric vehicles is not as easy as they state. They don't tell you might have to lease the charging equipment and one replacement battery £1000s? At at the moment like anything this country is not geared up for this! When it does kick off watch everyone's electric bills rise steeply when the national grid cannot cope!

The trouble is that this 'fix' was to lower nox emissions side however this really was only for the USA market as they have stricter rules and regulations on nox levels out there. In Europe the regulation is surprisingly much lower but the VAG decieded that all vehicles should be recalled across the world. What at amazes me is how does a car's ecu know when it's being tested in a mot? Different parts of the world have different air quality so this effects any engine running parameters including petrol vehicles. If your motor is serviced properly you should not have any problems. I believe this regen process dumps extra feul in thus causing a 'choking' effect. This in turn dilutes the engine oil and this is where the damage to some parts occur and the VAG group know this. So this is why some owners complain of stalling and acceleration issues. Owners of automatic and these distasterous DSG units struggle as the vehicles ecu will decide when it will go and stop. With a manual car you can open it up with the throttle as these need to be opened up if it's regenerating running around town. It's been mentioned before if you run around at 1500rpm in top gear you wasting your time. It will clog up the tubes especially that EGR valve. Vehicles are meant to driven. But again it's individuals choice. There is probably more emissions coming from the national grid with owners plugging in their electric vehicles these days. For me I don't pay a penny in VED to the chancellor. I knew what I was buying I knew the downside to owning one but touch wood I have never had any problems on the emissions side of things. So even if it is confirmed that my jam jar has actually had the this fix no issues from this car.

I will try and help as best I can from my experiences as I too have the 1.2 tdi greenline 2012 model. However on mine the EGR valve had to be replaced before the assumed 'fix' because the dealer could not carry out the 'update' as this part was faulty. I say update because I have been told by the dealer network the this update was never completed properly for reasons I'am trying to find out but will get the answer. But it really does prove that EGR faults can occur if the vehicle has not had the service campaign yet. With regards to idling issues this could be vacuum or air leak. Mine sometimes does this but I believe this could be to do with the inlet manifold cracked. Check all pipe work especially the ones that come from the valve and run along the air filter box to the engine elbows and 'T' pieces. Also check condition of the turbo / intercooled pipe work. ( any oil misting tighten clamps if required). Also check condition on vac pipe and pipe work on the EGR valve itself. Does your vehicle hunt sometimes? When idling watch the stepper motor which operate the swirl flaps on the intake manifold. Is it constantly adjusting? Look closely where the spindle is. Any weeping oil coming from there? As you know any leaks even if tiny will affect the running of any diesel as it will draw in air and that ecu will adjust parameters. I know it's tidious but it's best to check the simple things first. Electrical gremlins. Ok check all earth strap points in engine bay clean tighten and protect. Check condition of fuses and wiring on top of the battery again check connection security clean off any corrosion if any. Is the battery original? Is it getting past its best? Give it a treat and trickle charge it see if makes any difference. Do do you use the stop start feature? Bearing in mind this might be a good idea but this can cause heavy loads on the battery and starter motor and the solenoid could be packing up. Not sure how many modern cars nowadays need frequent starter motor replacement. I turn off this feature on mine as I don't like it being an old school driver. Anyway check for chaffing of the wiring loom near the alternator as some models under warranty had to have a section changed and re-routed away from the engine block due to rubbing. Check crank sensor wiring is clipped in properly along its route they tend to work loose. It's really near moving parts in my view. Instrument panel gremlins could be can bus issues or low voltage issues. As you know low voltage can cause havoc with some modules. When turning over it could be drawing a lot of current causing dips and spikes in different areas of electronics. EGR/DPF codes. Does your vehicle regen properly? Is she in limp mode? Any mil lamp on? Or are these pending on code read? Try this if possible. Put some super grade diesel in. Grab a can of any DPF cleaner or cata clean. Take it for a good half hour run. Don't be worried about giving it a little throttle. Get that exhaust hot. EGR valve could be getting a bit coked up. If you can while on the drive keep clearing down the codes. See what happens. I have picked up many diesels vehicles in the past and if I see black smoke when I gun it this is the EGR clearing out. After a few runs like that there is no smoke. These need to be kept open so they don't choke up. On mine I do try and keep treatments regular. Silly question how often does the diesel filter get changed? I have learnt that since owning this model regen process degrades the oil very heavily and I now get it changed even 5k. As you already know that if one fault occurs it's usually linked to others however I believe if one system is not functioning properly the ecu decided to shut down some others for example regen is stopped if this occurs then the EGR system is shut down until the fault is rectified and to stop engine damage. If if you live close then I would be willing to help you using my diagnostics system. Just so you can get some clarification on these faults. This is just advice and I may not be correct on everything but this is what I have come across on my vehicle and hope this helps you as I'am constantly checking mine with the same engine but keep it simple first. Best wishes A

Very informative post. But a very brave effort on the DPF clean T Lee! I had the exact same issues and codes on mine (1.2 tdi) 2012 model. But mine appeared at 120k. I was lucky and used my VCDS system and iniated a service regeneration from the drop down menu using info from the net. My other half drove the vehicle while I kept an eye on the soot values and sequences from the display. Being done when we had the hot spell in the summer helped this as I was astonished how hot the engine and exhaust systems were getting! Since then I have not had any issues with the DPF. I avoid supermarket diesel and occasionally put some additive (cata clean or forte DPF cleaner). I also leave the vehicle to idle if it's in the middle of regen until the fan cuts down and the revs lower. I feel this stops interruption and the ecu can calculate what's needed to clear down on the next driving cycle. Yes I do give her a hammering just to keep the tubes clear every now and then but still no issues after 20k. Regens every 400 miles approx and takes about 7 minutes to complete 4 minutes if you give it some beans! With regard to your door loom problems I had to replace both left and right door ones due to the electric windows stopped working. Also the alarm kept going off for no reason at sporodic hours in the night. I found 5 wires broken on the drivers door loom and 3 on the passenger side. Yes I agree bad design on where the door opens and closes. But the job changing them is very time consuming I could not guarantee a solder / crimp repair by myself on the loom itself due to the possibility of any new breaks occurring after or before the repair. But it's individual choice. Mine is approaching 140k which still has original battery, turbo, DPF and exhaust system. EGR changed at 90k due to some fault before this apparent 'fix' and oil cooler unit replaced due to coolant leak due to cracked water jacket casing plus cambelt and water pump at 130k. That's all.

Hopefully just to aid any owner. If you are having grief with these bulbs also check the actual bulb holder as these melt and may cause the fuse to blow. These are constantly on but some models have the option to be switched off. A dealer technician decided to just change the bulb on mine only for the fault to flash up on the dash and on discovery in seeing moisture in the lens. I investigated and due to the seal being distorted due to excessive heat thus letting in water I dismantled myself and replaced the unit and bulb. Dried out the lens now all ok. Attention to detail with stealers and thier 'fully trained' 'technicians' worries me as the new bulb fitted was destroyed.

Just a very quick one on this subject can anyone tell me why some variants of this fabia have glossy type 'b' pillar coverings on these doors? I asked a Skoda dealer if I could order these but they told me these are a different type fitment. I believe they are clipped in. Especially the VRS and Monte Carlo models have them fitted which match the 'a' piller windscreen mouldings. On my vehicle they are really worn and will need changing but it is a very bad cheap design. I prefer to retro fit the glossy type instead of the 'satin black'. I've never seen the glossy types worn out! Just seems strange why the manufacture would change the design.

As requested some pictures of the weep. I believe it occurs more so when boost is demanded. For example hill climbs. The oil runs underneath the inlet assembly and drops onto the oil filter housing. Apparently these engines are a bit dirty internally and there will be oil residue in the intake side but the garage tells me the turbo could be letting more through. Thanks again.

I have searched again on the site but not a lot of info on this. I have asked the dealer on a number of occasions and they refuse to answer the question but I do have a theory. Is this linked to the ignition switch system. I cannot find this terminal on the advanced measuring blocks on vcds system. I'am guessing the steering column clusters. The only problem I have come across is that the main beam flasher element of the switch sticks on especially in the hot summer times so could this be throwing up the fault in the ecu? Again any advice welcomed and has any owners come across this issue? Best wishes.

I will try and keep this short. The vehicle has now nearly covered 140k in total. At 90k the EGR valve was replaced due to it being faulty before any attempt of the 'emissions fix' update. Which really goes to show this part can fail before any reprogramming being done. However this 23R6 recall was apparently abandoned for some unknown reason as when I took the vehicle in for servicing the dealer kept asking me if I wanted it done. (I declined) But Skoda UK records show as being completed. This is still being investigated at the moment but due to bad workmanship from this dealer oil leaks and 'misting' of oil was occurring at the back of the engine block and I was told all engines do this! Gobsmacked I got Skoda UK to cover the cost of a proper repair by another dealer who nailed it. Now me thinking great no more oil leaks then boom oil leaking from what I can see from the inlet manifold stepper motor aperture for the swirl flaps and end mounting bolts. So I thought get the manifold gasket replaced. Got that done and still she insists in weeping oil! I have been given many excuses for example over tightened oil filter cap which may have a hairline crack or old oil residue and finally turbo getting tired causing blow by or breathing heavy. I do believe this is not the case and it requires a complete uprated or modified assembly. The reason being is that I did read somewhere that the 1.2tdi polo's suffered fractures and VW modified them. I also spoke to a Seat Technician and he confirmed these are common across the EA189 engines across all manufactures who share this engine. He said remember that these are plastic and they get hot and cold and are renowned for cracking. I did remember that when in regeneration mode these engines reach 130 degrees plus! What I cannot understand is why didn't the Skoda dealer tell me this? Has anyone on the forum come across this problem on their vehicle? I know this will be a costly repair and again I will ask Skoda UK aid with costs if possible. I have tried to find info on the site but its very vague and could only find some info on the 1.6tdi variant and any advice given would be greatly appreciated.

Just to say a quick hello to everyone on the site. I'am from Kent and own the baby diesel 2012 greenline model which for me has been fantastic over the 50k covered so far since ownership. I'am hoping you guys with the gained knowledge out there can answer a few niggling queries I have on this 3 cylinder oil burner. This is my second Skoda and my previous model was the taxi drivers favourite the mark one Octavia 1.9 tdi. Thanks for having me.