Koreenium

I'm planning on replacing my gearbox because it has several problems. Sometimes it makes loud clunk when I put it into gear. Going from 1st to 2nd gear I have to wait for a second before gear actually engages. Selector mechanism is not smooth, seems to snag every now and then. And finally when selecting reverse despite being completely standstill, it slightly grinds. Anyway. Engine is 1.2 TSI CBZA 2014 year and current gearbox is 5 speed MFX with parts number 02T 301 103 AB. Problem is that I can't find locally any that are exact match and I don't know which other ones fit or what difference is there between MFX, LEG etc. I have found LEG 02T 301 103 AB, MFX 02T 300 020 R (RX?). Also pricing seems all over the place. Some low kilometrage go for around ~300€ while another that is much higher goes for ~800€ etc. I would appreciate any help.

My Rapid has done 250 000km. It's so basic that even if something blows up I don't get any warning lights. Most of the issues I have had are from high kilometrage so most of the issues are not worth mentioning. But I can say that it has never left me stranded. So far atleast.

Definitely on the right side, in front of the rear wheel. toplivnyj-filtr-na-skoda-rapid_1.jpg (1014×718) (wp.com)

Ofcourse this can not be diagnosed like this but I'm atleast looking for any helpful pointers or perhaps knowledge from someone who has had similar issue. Anyway. I did few 0 to 100 accelerations just to see if my car is actually 86hp or not. I did not hear or have any issues. In fact everything worked just fine after few accelerations and even when driving home. But later I noticed that there was a slight clunk when I changed gears and let go of the clutch. It doesn't happen when I select a gear. They seem to go in just fine but when I let go of the clutch then I hear a clunk. When I'm stationary and change gears, press clutch in and let go, there are no noises or anything. Only happens when driving. I have noticed for a while now that I can hear and feel engine vibration more prominently than before so I'm assuming it could be a the dogbone mount that is busted? Damn weather sucks so I don't feel like crawling under the car right now.

Even revised chain can cause problems on these engines. So if you hear rattling, you want to have the chain checked as soon as possible. Especially when mechanic decides not to change the sprockets with chain replacement. Took my car only 6000km before chain started rattling again. Apparantly mechanic didn't bother to change the sprockets because "they looked fine" even though the kit comes with new sprockets and manual says "All parts must be replaced" And mine is late 2014 built car.

My car has same problem. i.imgur.com/T270jZz.png I replaced that PCV valve. It was completely useless. Rubber disk was badly worn and did not create any sort of seal. I don't think I even got to ride for a week before the new one got blown out aswell and became useless. i.imgur.com/lmLnTTr.jpg

I doubt my problem has anything to do with the fuel. With cold weather like -5C I get a nice crisp cold start. On a dry day with +5C I get fairly bad cold start but it is by far worse when it's humid. I have also noticed that on rainy days performance is usually worse. I have replaced spark plugs with NGK iridium plugs. New ignition coil and leads. I also used dielectric grease. And new air filter. Other things I did notice already in the past was that headlights sometimes flicker. For example when I start moving. But recently also noticed that I stopped and turned the wheel and as I was doing it my headlights dimmed slightly. I have brand new battery, in fact the old battery was just fine aswell. Alternator gives around 13.7 - 13.9v. Possibly an electrical issue? I did notice that connection on the starter is rusty. Nut atleast is. But that shouldn't be a problem? I have also noticed that at some time a rodent has lived inside the engine bay. Have not seen any broken wires so far.

I also have this problem on my Skoda Rapid with 1.2 TSI CBZA engine. I went throught the repair manual and I haven't noticed anything that would say or indicate that it can't be just removed and new one installed. But then again I'm not experienced with this. Though I have seen some others say that they have just replaced it with a new one. Some have also recommended using timing tools to make sure that everything stays in the right place. I even tried on mine but there are hoses in the way which makes it bit difficult to remove and it was so tight that I could not even get it to budge. And I put quite a lot of force on it as my breaker bar was actually flexing. Was afraid something was going to break so I never got around to changing it. Head size on the chain tensioner is 27mm and it has to be tightened to 60nm. Also there are atleast couple of different chain tensioners so you have to make sure to get the correct one, unless they are compatible with each other? Supposedly the 03F 109 507 F is the latest one. Also this rattling on cold starts could be caused by the oil filter not sealing properly and letting oil drain back after car has been sitting for a while. Apparantly another common issue with these engines.

I don't know about octane ratings and how much it changes between summer and winter formulas but let's assume that winter formula has 100+. Why would it matter this much? Originally this engine is rated to run on 95. Several of my friends use same fuel and they have literally no noticeable difference going from summer to winter etc. Though they do have different cars, engines and much lower milage etc.

I have been using mostly 98 and it is mostly from one fuel station. I might have to go try fuel from elsewhere. Weird thing is that it has gotten better again but I have all kinds of other issues. I guess this is what I get with high milage engine like this.

Anyway back to the original topic. Sluggish start is back and apparently the new check valve ( non-return valve - 03F103175A ) has failed. I bought a Hitatchi 139315 and it seemed high quality. I assume the failure might have something to do with high pressure inside the engine block?

Normaly starting the engine sounds nice and crisp. RPM jumps to 1400-1500 and comes slowly down. If the catalytic converter needs to be warmed up, engine is going to idle around 1100-1200 rpm for 20-30 seconds and then comes down to 650-700 rpm unless the AC is running in which case it comes down to ~900 rpm. But recently I got a new problem. Cold starts when the car has been sitting for 4+ hours, no matter what the temperature outside is, I get really sluggish engine start. RPM jumps to 1300 and immediately drops to 1000 or less. And instead of nice crisp start it sounds muffled, sluggish. And I can feel that the engine idles rough. A lot of small and some bigger jolts shake the cabin every few seconds. I used VCDS and noticed that there are maybe few misfires every now and then on all 4 cylinders at any random time but they don't seem to correspond to the jolts I'm feeling. After the engine warms up all of these problems go away. Engine starts nicely, no jolts, no misfires. Video of sluggish cold start: When the car has run atleast few minutes or has been properly warmed up by driving around: Things that I have done a while ago way before this started happening: 1) Changed spark plugs with Bosch Iridium FR6HI332. Old were decently clean and completely dry but warn out. Who ever changed the spark plugs prior used quite a lot of anti-seize on the threads. I just checked recently and the spark plug for the first cylinder had loosened itself and I retorqued them down to 25 Nm. 2) Changed faulty N80 EVAP purge valve/solenoid. No problems with it after that. Other problems I noticed around when this sluggish cold start started happening and overall poor engine performance. Engine block breather valve under the turbos pressure tube/pipe started leaking because the rubber grommet had split. I replaced the grommet, I got the whole thing out, and the one way breather valve itself. After that I noticed that the oil seperator had started leaking instead of just seeping oil. Also noticed that the AC compressor is seeping oil and it has been doing it for a while. No major leak there. What I have done after this problem started occuring: 1) Obviously replaced the split, leaking rubber grommet for the engine block breather valve. 2) Replaced engine oil but instead of regular 5W-30 I used 0W-40. 3) Cleaned the throttle body. 4) Used STP fuel system cleaning stuff. When cleaning the throttle body I also noticed that there is a lot of oil inside the inlet manifold. Not sure how much is coming from the turbo. Turbo seems fairly dry and there is fairly light coating of oil all the way to the throttle body. What I have read on some russian forum is that a leaking oil seperator and oil in the inlet manifold suggest there could be some sort of problem with the engines oil and oil vapor movement. Possibly a blockage somewhere? And some guy even suggested cleaning, replacing engines non return valve ( 03F103175A ) which I have not done yet. Also overall engine performance before the turbo kick in around 1600-1800 rpm seems to be poorer compared to before. And for example when I'm driving around 40 km/h in 4th gear and I want to accelerate then the engine starts to struggle. It makes quite loud, vibrating, rumbling noise and fades away as the speed increases. 1000-1200 rpm at 40km/h and it's rumbling up to around 1400-1500 and then it runs smooth. I'm pretty sure it was not like that before or maybe that's my imagination? RPM seems to be lower aswell when driving at a constant speed compared to before but I did not really pay much attention to this before so I might be wrong. Oh and only fault code I get is: "00819 fault code lower limit exceeded" but that seems to have something to do with the AC system. Anyway I need your help. Hopefully you can give me suggestions as what to do next. I also have VCDS so I can use that to check any values if that helps.

I never liked the look of the front so I was thinking about ways of changing it to look more appealing to me. First obvious thing was to paint, replace or remove front chromed trim around the grille. But that alone didn't do enough for me. I realised that I do not like how the front lights blend in with the grille so I decided to paint the small area on the sides of the grille, right next to the headlight. I think that alone made a huge difference. I have several low budget ideas more to hopefully further improve the look of the front. Plus some other modifications.

Does any of you know any additional safe jacking points for Rapid? Or perhaps any good tips on how to get it onto jack stands using the 4 jacking points? I need to get under the car but I don't trust lifting the front left corner up with just a floor jack and then working under the car. I don't need it to fall on my face which is already ugly enough.