DieselMonte

Camber is not adjustable, so I dont know myself why its reading so different in the before and after. Hopefully its not going to wear out tyres like it did. Thanks. Will keep that in mind next time I see a roundabout, I certainly am not going fast around them, but good to be aware, thanks.

I'll not lie, I have my suspicions about what they did or didnt do to the car (hence why I asked here). When I looked at the alignment sheet The after made me think they had put someone in the drivers seat to see if there was any change in alignment. The before shows 1 degree of camber and the after is almost none on the pass side and 1.5 on the drivers. Same goes for the rear. (I'm probably wrong, but I'm stuck for any *other* reason as to why camber could be so different for the entire drivers side.) They did not charge me this time. Plenty of roundabouts near me, never found myself pushing the car hard around them.

They arent a Kwikfit nor are they a large chain store like Kwikfit but they just happen to be the only place in my town that do alignments. Brand new hunter machine. I got told something along the lines of "oh, maybe its a worn balljoint" but all that stuff was replaced less than a month ago. The only thing I haven't replaced is the Front anti roll bar d bushes, inner track rods (they felt fine when doing the outers) and the shocks/top mounts themselves suspension wise

What was the mileage on the car? Just curious.

Absolutely true, but worth taking a chance if its cheap (as you said)

No reason why it wouldnt if the sensor was in good shape. The local scrapyard to me will check parts over before selling them.

From what I have come to learn, most places doing remaps on 1.6 remap to 140-145hp as a 'stage 1' map. Mines a 105 and its mapped to 140. Isnt the only physical difference the size of the oil cooler between the Caya,Cayb and Cayc?

Had the cars alignment checked today too, its eating through the inner edge of the fronts. Was checked, apparantly nothing wrong. I ended up swapping the fronts to the back and vice versa for now.

My car is NCT'd until December next year, my standard downpipe was rotten so I got a darkside one. I have a year and a half test on it before it becomes a problem.

Exhaust got fitted yesterday, along with a remap to 140hp. Nice sound off the exhaust now and its still far from being "loud". I thought the bumper would need to be cut but no, it just fits nicely under the standard bumper.

I'm after having my car mapped with its dpf delete, 140hp map. Not had a chance to give it a good run but definately a lot less effort to accelerate up to speed.

Heres hoping, thanks.

What was causing the insides of both front tyres to wear so quickly?

Hello all, I got my car back from getting its exhaust done and was made aware that the inner block of both tyres are worn badly. I took it to my local alignment place that did the alignment previously, they put it on their hunter machine and said its fine. I've attached a photo of their printout of the alignment, I'll get a photo of the wear on the tyres in a bit. I had to swap the fronts to the rears and vice versa as the rears have good tread, even though they are old. I have replaced the Drop links, track rod ends, wishbone bushes and ball joints over the last few months so unless those parts are defective (Checked them when swapping wheels, they seem 100%) I dont know what is causing it. I checked the old tyres off the front and they seem to have the same wear on them.

Would be the same part on all mk2 fabias anyway. Probably is the same on most VW products of that time but It wont be hard to find a fabia in a scrapyard, pretty common car afterall.

I couldnt find any mesh lower grills for a standard mk2, best bet would be to get some and do it yourself on the lower grill. I did it on my matrix a while back with some leftover mesh, not bad for costing nothing. I am considering putting mesh behind the lower grille on my fabia as I had the unfortunate experience of having to remove a bird from behind it. I somehow hit it while driving and it got sucked behind the lower grill, not fun.

Its on every Sunday in Salthill, would anyone be interested in meeting up at one of them? I will be in Salthill for the 27th if anyone does.

I'll be staying in Salthill end of June, 27-30th. Would love to meet up with everyone.

Should be 3.5mm, same as an aux jack on a phone.

It would take a long time for a brand new spring to sag like a 16 year spring. Whos to say that the old spring wont keep sagging as much as the new one does? I've always been told to do them in pairs, no reason not to. And +1 on doing the rear springs yourself, as I said earlier they are a very easy diy if you have a jack and jackstands. That video shows what to do, you dont need a lift or a transmission jack, you need stands to keep the chassis supported in the air and some form of jack, I didnt even bother taking off the wheels. -Lift up the back of the car and support it -Slide under and remove the lower shock bolts (17mm iirc), have the jack lightly supporting one of the perches for the spring when you completely remove the bolts. -Lower the rear beam slowly until its as far as it wants to go -At this point you should just be able to remove the rear springs by hand, no spring compressor needed Then its just the reverse for installing. Only thing to be wary of is to make sure the rear is jacked up plenty high to allow the rear beam to droop. I think it took me sub 30 minutes beginning to end including getting tools and jacking the car up.

Mini Update: Exhaust still sitting on the shed floor, couldnt get it done last week, I ordered a gearbox mount for the car as there is still a "kick" driving around town, hopefully that will solve it but I imagine the engine mount will also need done at some point. I attached a few photos, first ones just a nice pic of the car from the other day, second one is of the leaks on the exhaust and third is of the new gearbox mount, bilstein one so hopefully it'll last another nearly 9 years.

Even our NCT, which is government run is the same story. Very low bar to pass, granted mine failed on my headlights being too high (I didnt realise, bought the car like that). I passed on the retest, no advisories though and I've needed/wanted to replace a lot of the bushes and balljoints on the car. I remember my mothers old avensis failed NCT for condensation in the rear lamp, and not a word said about the worn suspension bushings and poorly wearing rears as a result. Monroe and KYB are meant to both be very good brands, as is Sachs. I wonder whats making him not like using Sachs?

Hello all, I hear theres a weekly meet going on in Salthill. I'm going to Salthill at the end of June on a trip for a few days, would there be any interest in some of us Irish members meeting up?

Might just be that other people are ok with their car just getting through MOT, not neccesarily if the car is in good shape or not. Did he get the parts or did you bring them yourself? Unless he somehow couldnt get the parts for the other side and needed it off the lift I cant see why he wouldnt do both sides. On an unrelated note the rear springs are silly easy to do with a jack I learned. No spring compressors needed.