Bowders1

I am assuming they are damaged if the need repairing? If they are damaged you would probably be better off getting second hand ones in good condition. You may be lucky and get a set same colour as your car If they just need a paint refurb, then maybe better getting them just painted.

They are just inferior quality to oem bushes and lemforder bushes which are oem quality. With bushes you are best to get good quality else they won't last long.Sent from my Samsung S3

hmm it only rub on full lock??? yeah would like to see that. Maybe you have a wheel alignment / tracking issue interesting ..... do you have the merc vito drop links too.?

still not convinced buddy your drive shaft is rubbing. From the pics i can see that mark is not a mark from rubbing as is rusty and you have no signs i can see on either the FARB or chassis that equal same marks. Those marks on drive shaft look more like were a balance weight would of been or a jubilee clip. I would loved to be proved wrong though Longer drop links are available dude. Be careful the merc vito drop links are way too small for VRS that has not got Pro sport coilovers and you will not be able to turn suspension fully. They should only be used with pro sport collies as Pro Sport has made the crap brackets far to low down the strut for std drop link to fit. Mine is lower than that and i still have std drop links fitted an no rubbing. yeah raise the rear buddy a little as you have the rear beam forcing the wheels too far forward at rear. Again be careful buddy these will not fit the Mk 2 and should not be used with none pro sport coilovers.

Ah so you have yellow bush at rear(the 2 piece) and a std bush at front. I would be surprised if the std bush has gone as this is rare. i would maybe think the yellow rear ones have been tightened up either too much as that could make a lot of issues or actually come loose . Also i would steer clear of changing front it it is not split as to fit a poly bush up front as well will make your vibration worse. i think you will end up getting red rear bush and a torque check will solve your woes

Nah... it can by done without a press on the front wishbone rear bush as I have done it few times You could do it yourself but you need to be prepared for a bit of a job. The std bushes are in tight but you can drill the rubber section and then either use a saw to cut through the plastic outer ring or bang a small flat screwdriver down between wishbone and plastic sleeve. The plastic sleeve will then just collapse. You might be lucky and the whole bush just comes out together as the drill holes weaken it. I have done the job a few times and do not find it that bad now. Getting in a solid bush(from Audi TT or Seat LCR or R32) is even more of a PITA and these have no give in them at all. For the solid bushes install , you either need a press or a good vice and a set of over sized sockets and under sized socket to act as a ram to press the bush into the wishbone. A lot easier if you replace with poly bushes that can be pushed in. here are a few pics

good find. see they change the colour to same a Super Pro just to confuse folks....

lol he's......back...

Hi dude, how you doing these days... I really doubt he is low enough to hit chassis with drive shaft unless he is stupid low..... The tdi and 1.8t (none VRS) run same set up as each other where the drop links are attached to FARB and wishbone . The VRS runs the drop links from the strut to FARB. This give better clearance so the VRS should be ok on this unless someone has changed the set up. Now maybe something to do with the Merc vito drop links and the Pro sport coil overs have caused in reducing the gap between drive shaft and FARB as those merc drop links are shorter. Here is the nice gap on the std drop link to drive shaft pics with the car on the ground showing the relationship between drive shaft, chassis, drop links etc will solve this.

I would post a pic buddy as I don't think powerflex (yellow) do a front bush. They only do a rear bush i think, It is only super pro that do both front and rear. Are you being mistaken it that the rear bush is in two sections. And perhaps the owner only fitted one part, which kinda could be why you have even worse vibrations as a stronger bush is battling with std half section of std rear bush and winning. best bet is post a pic. I did that reference guide some time back comparing various variants of bushes. I did not cover the powerflex "red" rear bush but believe it to sit slighter softer than the powerflex yellow rear bush. So is a good upgrade for folks not wanting a "as" harsh as the yellow, but a dam site better than std..

Those rally cars are tuned specifically in a way to get the best performance from a highly tuned car. The turbo and wastegates and air/fuel mixtures and temps will have a expensive control unit (multiple ECU's) managing all this stuff rather than a bog std manufacture ECU. So not surprising a DV is not used. It is kinda pointless comparing the set up of a rally car to what you want to get in a road car imo.

I hear ya....

These cars are getting on now and the suspension is deliberately soft as new . The Skoda Dealers were not allowed to compete with more expensive cars like the Audi's and Golfs of same platform and steal away the sales(in the early days)so some things on the Skoda are not of same quality. So you have the same engine and drive train producing the same power through a inferior suspension set up. The Octavia like the Golf and 2WD Audi's are fitted with a rear anti roll bar inside the rear beam. However it does not serve as good a job as expected and a lot of folks fit a aftermarket rear stabilizer bar(RARB) something like a Eibach , Neuspeed or Whiteline. These hook up further back on the shock mounts and rear beam. They are considered to be one of the best mods to buy as they greatly improve straight line stability and cornering, something that the Octavia greatly needs. This mod alone is better than replacing suspension for handling. Look for a VW golf MK4 as they are the same platform hope it helps.

Well it is a modded std grill that I cut up and added mesh. I did a diy guide in the tech section. I am up for a meet as in Portsmouth. Not to far to go. Sent from my Samsung S3

I thought the 17/45/225 was std fitment no?

Send pics buddy, i doubt it is your FARB rubbing and something else.

true but most are fitted with 225 i think...

if you want to go low on 17 spiders you defo need spacers to clear the coilover platforms as tyres will rub them I have 12mm hubcentic H&R spacers, you will need 8mm or greater here's mine

As I listed above the advantages are great and significant in making the car handle a lot more tighter and controlled. Yes it is that simple just fitting the kit as it comes with the bar and hook up brackets and bolts etc. You don't say if your car is a VRS, but if not you will need to convert the front ARB to a VRS type one including the ARB drop links and if you have Pro sport coilovers you will need to make sure you have the drop link kook up points on the struts and also the prosports will need to use Mercedes vito ones as the struts have the ARB too low to use std VRS drop links. Also 25mm FARB is quite a strong one as your std FARB is 19mm, so unless you buy a much thicker RARB / Stabiliser to match the 25mm FARB you will muck your handling up.

Actually that is not quite true All Octavia are fitted with a rear anti roll bar It is inside the rear beam However it does not serve as good a job as expected and a lot of folks fit a aftermarket rear stabilizer bar(RARB) something like a Eibach , Neuspeed or Whiteline. These hook up further back on the shock mounts and rear beam. They are considered to be one of the best mods to buy as they greatly improve straight line stability and cornering, something that the Octavia greatly needs. This mod alone is better than replacing suspension for handling. Look for a VW golf MK4 as they are the same platform

Correct buddy your mate is talking rubbish, you can go lower. Unless you are already on the deck the VRS can go a lot lower than most VW Golfs as the VRS has a anti roll bar that does not get in the way of the drive shaft like Golfs do. The boost pipes or pancake metal boost pipe are no where near the suspension

the toque is valve cover bolts: 7 ft-lb And yes sealant is needed in the corners as it does prevent longer term leaking. As per IulianE link.

Whilst I can't argue with you ref actual experience of turbo failures for the reason of DV fluttering the point is as you mentioned the jap cars in question left factory with no DV perhaps because their set up is different to the VAG group and manufacture that do put DV on and other factors i am not that techi with.. Just because one car runs without does not mean that is the same for every car. And you are probably right by the time the fluttering does something to damage the turbo the car is long gone. each to their own buddy. I stick with mine on...

As stated it is not good to get that noise as every time that noise is heard is the compressor stalling. Without a Dump Valve, the pressurised air being pumped into the engine by the turbo will have only one path when the throttle is closed, which is back through the turbo compressor. The fluttering sound is the sound of this air against the blades of the spinning turbo compressor as it tries to flow through it the wrong way. Car manufacturers fit recirculating Dump Valves to give the pressurised air an alternate path when the throttle is closed, which is back into the turbo compressor inlet. The issue in question is that the load placed on the turbocharger from this pressurised air flowing through it the wrong way can cause premature wear or damage, as this air is causing a potential sudden staling of the turbo. In higher boost levels without a Dump Valve are definitely not going to help turbo life. I also recon fitting a stronger spring is also not the best thing to do to bring on a sound that is actually not a good thing. on a side note too, those WRC are epic...

Bad choice buddy, I would not do it. You are missreading David 8 . He meant that he just get the odd flutter like i do every now and then which depends on load and driving and throttle position and nothing to do with blanking or removing the DV. That is a crazy idea...