Bingodalton

Guys, what is your fuel consumption on 87mph speed (140kmh) on board? Cruise control for example. Superb 280 dsg6

I am byuing spark plugs and replacing sometimes by myself. Petrol is 100 octanes, if I trust them. OMV MaxxMotion Super 100Plus But whenever I go to Europe there is difference in fuel quality and engine performance / work / sound / consumption.

I know that. But, here we have lower fuel quality, shorter distance rides. I did oil change on every car at 6000miles and all that I know do the same. Esspecially if you are Stage 1 or higher. By Skoda it is recommended 18.000 miles, personally for stock I would not go more than 12.000 miles. Yes, these oils would be good for 9.000 miles even Stage 1, I agree. What is good here, oil change is not expensive. So, oil, oil filter, replacement work is 75eur in total. I have tried 0w40 Mobile1. Not sure, I think it is a little bit quieter with 5w30 Castrol Edge FST LL.

Correct, not so good. I know. I change the oil and filters every 6.000 miles, as well as spark plugs (they could go at least 12.000 in Stage 1, but tuners reccomend 6k miles/10k km replacement). To add. I even use LL 5w30 for these short intervals.

To follow up this thread. B4 and B6 Damptronic (DCC replacement), both front and rear, are available in Bilstein catalogue. 330-370 eur per corner.

In warm weather yes, gets to 90 in 7km while I get to work, it is 30+ here at that time. But it is a trip without traffic lights with speed of 50mph. I get to/from (downhill/uphill) work during warm weather with 9.0l in average. Now in winter, it is -1C, -2C, I get home, uphill driving and after 7-8km it is 72C oil. Downhill in the morning even worse, starts showing oil temperature less than 1km before office.

You have great consumptions. Mine are (all with aircon, non eco): - Last year not remapped 12l/100km (23.5mpg) - This year mapped (ecu and dsg) 13l/100km (21.7mpg) - Total for 30.000km 12.28l/100km (23mpg) 60% is town (busy traffic, short distances, small city) 20% going to/back from work (5miles, cold engine, oil gets to temperature ) 20% highway (70-80) There are launches, 1/4 measurings, 100-200, top speed runs (speedo stops at 260, but should show almost 280 at 267gps. It is able to go more, maybe 275gps, max). 272 consumes less for sure.

Rear one is outlet, closer one is inlet. But I am glad it is better, that there is difference. They are the same.

Left/right, up/down Or pull/push Or rotational left/right

Check in few days, after some miles

Narrower, lower profile 1.5cm, wheel sitting closer to hub. Narrower tyre will help, but car will be 1.5cm closer to the ground. I would avoid this in winter. Diameter 4.6% smaller, which is more than max 3% recommended.

Yes, this should not be a problem. What your readiness say? What did not passed the test? Vcds > Engine > Readiness

I did it with Torque. Engine not running - Emgine started - around 50c temperature - Engine running after 10s. Cat is still cold. - Engine running, cat heated - Engine running, cat heated. I had to run it on 2000rpm in order to heat it. If I leave it on idle, cat temp goes down, and O2 S2 goes to 0.2V again. Not consuming O2.

I will check it up when I get home. These engines were made to work under strict emission norms, this is why they have problem on idle. I thought about your heater malfunction too.

Have you checked for errors with VCDS now when you have it? Do the AutoScan.

This looks fine then. Is it working better after hard drive? Is O2 sensor changing its behavior when you are at idle and it is cooling down?

Check if it ever starts to change voltage from 1.275V

Here are data. - not started - started - cold - heated

I will take you few pics this morning. I think your O2 sensor is faulty, or to say I am sure. Fortunatelly it is the cheaper one. If you tell this data to any mechanic around you, they will say the same. Except there is some other reading for Sensor 2, but I am also sure it is this one. You can try to disconnect it and see the difference by urself. It alsi has logic to your negative fuel trims, it is reading Rich condition, and thus removing fuel constantly.

I would say that this sensor is not working at all. On mine, this value is 0.7-0.8V

You do not have downpipe without cat?

Can you check Oxygen sensor voltage bank 1 after catalytic converter? This should be read same as Sensor 2 jump sensor voltage. It should not go above 1V at the first place and it should fluctuate a bit. It is faulty O2 sensor or some wiring problem.

Your sensor 2 is not changing voltage at all? 1.275V always?

Great. I am eager to help. Sounds like ur problem is bad downstream O2 sensor. I will try to log mine from cold start so you can compare. When cold and without cat working its job is should go up and down, but after cat is warmed up it should be steady above 0.5v, below 0.9v.

Any news?