Bingodalton

They just use same front springs. For AWD versions rear ones are different. Load is 1250kg (not 1220 as in your table), but they are shorter, thinner, less coils. Something is made differently with mounting of shocks and springs, chassis is a little bit different for Arteon/Passat and Superb or some bushings. They maybe have thicker ones in OEM version, so they add some of height. (checked this one, upper and lower support are the same)

Since I have an offer to buy Arteon Eibach Pro Kit and looking at the catalogue and table above I am curious what you think. Superb 2.0 TSI AWD and Arteon 2.0 TSI AWD have same front springs in Pro Kit, but rear ones are different: Superb 11-79-008-01-HA 122 mm outer diameter 13.75 mm thickness 327 mm height 8.2 coils Arteon 11-15-007-04-HA 116 mm 13.50 mm 303 mm 8.0 coils Strange that Arteon is lowering just 25mm with these springs, but still original ones are also shorter than the ones on Superb. Seems like rear end of Superb will be quite low with these springs. Original ones are 12.80 mm 356 mm 8.5 coils Compared to Arteon Pro Kit thinner yes, but 53mm longer and with more coils to keep it high. Superb is higher on rear end which can be solved maybe, but I am afraid Arteon springs will somehow be way off anything predicted for this car or its stability. Less coils, shorter springs, thinner spirngs than Superb Pro Kit, but maybe this less will drop it maybe 1cm more, or less. Arteon Springs even if they are thinner, shorter and with less coils, they also have smaller diameter, I guess they also compress less... Your thoughts?

At 1750 rpm speed is 80km/h. I think speed difference is around 3-4%. 252 km/h speedo is at 5500rpm (I looked at some videos I have). So, theoretically at 6300rpm it is 275-280 km/h real speed, 288km/h speedo. It is interesting your launch is at 3300rpm, mine is close to 4000rpm which is standard. Maybe it makes a difference. I see 60ft time is what makes difference. 1.84, I am struggling around 2.0s. 12.09 on 1/4 is fast, mine is 12.2-12.4s My tuner told me that 370-380 Stage 1 is not possible on our cars, which have the same engine as Golf 7R. Golf 7.5R with 7 speed gearbox, yes. Something is different. Intake elbow is most restrictive, I think filter does not ad 5-10hp, maybe 2-3 top. And standard airbox is sufficient even for Stage 2. For some increase in power you need either intercooler or downpipe, or preferable both. One thing is what kind of equipment you have in a car, because it brings weight. You have standard cloth seats I see, heated as well. Mine are leather ones, with cooling fans, 220V socket, virtual pedal, heated windshield (as yours), 19" summer wheels, DCC, so probably gained some weight compared to yours. Weight counts. You can just look at the Golf 7R and see how fast it is with the Stage 1. I have measured mine and it is 1720kg with me (85kg) and 1/4 of tank. On other scale was 1751kg with fuel on reserve and guy probably had 100kg. So, 90% of fuel just car is 1670-1690kg. I have been on 1/4 race weekend ago. Track is little bit slippery at the start and my ET time was around 12.9, but I tried to put octane booster and removed spare wheel, tools and some stuff from the boot (30kg maybe) and time went down to bellow 12.8. consistently. Also on training session every race was slower and slower, due to heat soak. So intercooler would be beneficial for this. On my Dyno graph, technician did not pushed in high rpm in first run. Second one he pushed more and third one too, but intake temperature just went up. I assume it is close to 355hp, as second run it did 351hp. This is done on our "100octane" fuel in Serbia, which is crap.

I guess they hope they will be able to deliver them at that time, I think nobody guarantees.

For Stage 1 it is pretty quick. Not sure how heavy it is, what equipment you have. Mine is usually 4.4 0-100 and 4.2 best, with 15.5 0-200 best, but usually 16s. I tried once to pull past 250, fortunately I had some gps app running. As my tuner said limiter is removed i thought it will show more than 260, so I was surprised it does not go beyond 260. I did not pushed it to the limit, since it was long bend and not so smooth asphalt and also my rear bumper wants to fly away, since plastic holders in the corners are broken. When I stopped corner of bumpers were 10-15cm opened on both sides, it would for sure fly away with more speed and rear wiper arm was raised. But top speed for dq250 is not 300km/h, it would need to go to past 6700rpm in 6. gear which is not possible since you have power drop earlier than 6000. I think 285 gps it top, you will not make anything more except going downhill. And you need to be careful with this IS38 trying to make top speed as it becomes really hot.

But B6 DampTronic are not available for some time.

There are following options: - Original, which is also Monroe and they are twice cheaper than Original. - Nagengast regenerating of shock absorbers. - Bilstein B4 Damptronic which costs as original or B6 Damptronic which are out of stock. - Borsehung with 5 years guarantee and Maxgear. For those last two I never heard. - There is also some Aerosus, but I read they are some Chinesse stuff. - And KW of course, but those are really expensive. So, plenty of options

Really?! 🤣 If that is the case, best is to floor it to kickdown or slam the brakes. Thinking about button, pressings the one while you are in that situation will not bring anything good. Maybe you see these kind of situations in slow motion, like in the movies, but in the reality you will have both hands on the steering wheel.

"Superb" looks shorter than Passat. Strange.

But he need Sport just to overtake, so pulling DSG lever back will be sufficient.

@Esseesse200 Is this measured power/torque? Do you have dyno chart? Do you have some dragy/pgear measurements?

Speed limiter is overridden with kickdown, 100%. Safety measure in case you really need it.

MPI fail? I think it is not the problem.

I have just checked it from 5m away from front of the car. Double press button on the remote and hold it after second press until it starts closing (mine is beeping too). Then you can release the button and it will close it till the end.

That is the first actuator from the left side. First one is A, second one is B. But they are the same. It could be loose connection too. I had error once for Cyl2 B and never after this. But I still removed 5 or 6 of them that are easier to remove and cleaned them.

I always did closing of the boot lid from outside of the car by pressing two times button on the remote control while holding the button after second press. If I remember correctly it was working even from 10m away.

No, I do not have it. It is regular version.

If somebody need it, here is the link https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001549179440.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.45d4582fGxT7wa

New sensor has arrived, from China (Ali) and now there are no faults, everything working properly. Hope it stays like that.

A month ago I have replaced my Air Quality Sensor with the Chinese one. I got few new errors beside AQS. Like High Pressure Sensor and Air Blower. I have checked air con and they added 306gr of fluid. Still the same. I have changed High Pressure Sensor. Still the same. It even had fault of cutting air con compressor. Then I have disconnected Chinese AQS and all faults have disappeared and everything is working (except flaps closing). This one was some faulty AQS making some troubles to control unit.

Yes, DQ250 is wet clutch. Increased rpm on idle always helps. Like when you turn an AC on, or in Sport mode. I could think about increasing it a little bit too. 50 is maybe not a lot, but if it makes a difference...

Clutch should be just ready on DSG in D, not engaged. You always have a pause when you release the break, it does not start immediately as torque converter. I know this by reaction times on 402 races. DSG just sucks even with TCU tune. Yes, there is some difference in D and N, but it is probably due to some activation of gearbox itself. Idle is bellow 800rpm, if I am right around 760rpm. And this is for MY2017 with MPI, without GPF. If rpm is increased in later models, this is probably way to resolve rough or better say not smooth idle found on many cars with EA888 Gen3 engine in USA and Europe. I guess your 206kw is new one with 7 speed dry clutch, so no need to check DSG fluid?

He bought it in August, so for sure MY22.

And I am in Serbia. Think about what we get. 🤣

Why you think so?