Bingodalton

I have replaced my hid bulbs, I suppose they were stock ones. Philips Xenstart old ones. Osram Night Breaker 220 new ones. Light was tested at the same road, 1 day difference, same headlight settings and same camera manual settings. So comparison is valid, not amplified with camera auto settings. Upper old Lower new Left is main beam Right high beam

Hose is broken amd it leaks from the trunk lid. It is jist lowest point. Try to open trunk,then close the lock by hand to trick it like it is closed and then use washer. You will notice water leaks from pilars of tailgate towards the car.

I do not know if they will fit, but 8R hpfp is pushing up to 350 bar, so different pump to. Did not saw anybody did this. Lpfp is also different, more flow, I think same as rs3 one.

I know, but 206kw injectors starting witk K ends to AH as last revision. And there is 06K for 200kw, first revision K, second and last revision N.

As I see, 06K...N is fot 272 engine, as well as R, TTS,... 06L...AH last revision is for 206kw CJXA and there is bosch replacement for that one. Akstuning: "These injectors are the part number from GPF (Gas Particulate Filter) models but will work in all 2.0 EA888 MQB platforms and offer a slightly higher flow rate over the non GPF original part numbers."

Not from tvs, but from other tuners makimg their own map. This platform is old enough that there are no secrets anymore. Tvs has the name, but still I know some people that have problem with tvs, similar as yours. For this kind of power Stage 1 tcu is enough. And other features included like no downshift in manual on kickdown, no automatic upshift, faster launch, faster gearchanges,... I will send you links in pm, not sure if it is allowed here. Btw I think rs3 di inkectors are same as ours. Do you have ref number of rs3 inj?

I am at 216.000km 🤣 I have replaced mpi and di injectors and hpfp. They were good, but like you wanted to be fresh. If di injectors are under risk, then using hpfp insert is still exosting problem. They usually push 220 bar and they stress injectors more. Lpfp + 980 mpi is safer bet, even with stock hpfp. Hpfp inserts can make a problem using with e85 as regular gasoline lubricates pump. Some people had problem with Autotech. Less with Vis. Not sure why they need to lower down power, it is already low, or better saying not high. I guess in manual you have faster shifting time then in auto, so you do not feel jerk. You would be able to see this with proper logging device. My tuning is done remotely with Simos tools. Tuner is in UK. No power cuts and with bigger turbo and power/torque. For reference I would say mime is of the fastest Pmax Superbs, did not saw faster one on gas. 100-200km/h 8.65s With previous tuner I had cuts. If you nuy Simos tools dongle, useful for fast speed logging, dtc check, erase,... you could buy tcu map online and flash it to your car for 200-300e. And dongle is 70e with shipping. I can send you links.

Does this happen in Auto and Manual mode? It could be it pulls timing in Auto, so you feel jerk. Looking at your graph I do not know why you replaced so many things for such a low power. You could run that power with Stage 1 alone, on gasoline. For such power I would opt for intercooler and downpipe instead of LPFP and HPFP mods, more reliable power. And you would be also able to run E85, I think (I am not sure) there is enough fuel with stock pumps to run E85 to 400hp (crank) or even little bit more. You did both mods which is sufficient for 550+ hp I am on stock fueling (stock LPFP, MPI, HPFP) with do88 intercooler, Milltek 200 cell downpipe and PowerMax Stage 1. Not yet measured but from my assumptions it is 460+ hp. I run Stage1 (ECU+TCU) without any mods with 350hp and 480nm for years without any other mod.

Anyone tried to adjust latch on bottom part of trunk, where lock grabs? I guess this is the solution. Lock is working clearly. I have the same problem. Sometimes it pulls tailgate down and locks, sometimes not. When it does not lock, I have to press tailgate to lock it, it just misses a little bit. When it does not lock, I do not hear electric motor even trying to pull it down. No specific cases, recently changed battery, still the same. I even try adjusting the tailgate with two rubber stops and plastic limiters on the sides of the trunk, without success. I can make it work if I choose little bit lower upper position of tailgate and in that case when it closes it "slams" tailgate and lock it automatically. But it is annoying to have it at that height (around 170cm), so I hit my head when I want to take something from the trunk. My suspicion is that latch moved a little bit down and there is not enough movement in the lock to sense it needs to activate electric motor to lock it/pull it down. I did not tried to slowly try to activate lock with hand and see if it continues to lock it. I think there is no other sensor as I tried just to lock it by hand and then it thinks trunk is closed. I will also try to loosen latch, there are two round plastic covers on the sides of bottom trunk trim and you can reach screws for latch trough them to loosen it up and bring it little bit closer to tailgate/higher.

Any new updates @HGFRENCH ? How tuning ended up?

Here are my two videos. Res delete, Stage 1, 200 cell downpipe. Downpipe almost has no effect in sound. Drone starts at 2800rpm.

Great to hear! Autotech, VIS? E5 is I guess weak mix to make big problems. You have some times 100-200 for such power?

@KeithRBrown do you have final figures with PMax1? I did turbo swap week ago, to Powermax Stage 1. There is still place for improvement of maps, which will be done in following period and with stock hpfp pressure is droping after 6000rpm, but power figures are promissing. 424hp and 560nm on 95 441hp and 593nm on 98 We do not have 100 octane fuel even it is advertised as 100, it is more 98. So 100oct map was not measured, but I can guess it is 450-460/600nm I will probably go hpfp upgrade route. I am concerned about long term reliability. But it seems that problems come with E blend, which I do not intend to use, since we do not have it on gas stations. I guess there is lack of lubrication with E. Car feels really fast and it is. I went from Stage 1 350hp/480nm to Stage 3, so it is significant increase. I do not feel lag (it is comparable to Stage 1 responsivnes) and how it pulls in 4th is totaly different league.

It is just strange that this car is so slow. On CarWow it performed poorly. 12.4s 1/4 and they usually do 1ft roll measurements. I am doing that time with Stage 1 on old Gen3 engine (without 1ft roll with 350hp/480nm). The one in "Sleeper" Superb is gen4 engine, 7 speed DSG, 120hp more... So it it pretty lazy and does not have stated power, for sure.

If they are leaking, just top them up every 10.000km

I think this is best approach considering experience on VW forum. Everybody is happy with Match.

Yes, C2516S is correct if I remember. I have installed those, fits left and right, same shock absorber. I think you do not get anything else with the absorber, except top nut.

I was doing some logging and became curious as I see some other values on different forums for other cars (for example Golf 7R). My requested pressure for LPFP is constant at 7 bars. Only when I was driving wot and released pedal it went to 5, but then back to 7 in second or two. Actual value follows requested one, so this is not a problem. HPFP is also good, on wot to 200, actual following requested. It just seems too much, 7 bar and everybody mention fuel filter in LPFP is declared on 6.5 bar. Duty Cycle is 64% on idle and it goes to 78% at wot, remaining 7 bar. On other forums people are mentioning 4, 5, 6 bar on idle, so I am not sure if this is normal. Mine is 280 with MPI 2017, which probably makes a difference compared to other without MPI. Is somebody able to log their LPFP requested/actual?

This is not an RS3 engine swap, its forged 2.0 engine.

It does not have, as well as 272 version. Yes, Milltek DP mutes the sound. With just downpipe, exhaust sound is almost the same as stock, nobody notice the difference. Superb is not Golf, so it should not sound as one. It is just ok with resonator delete. Especially from inside of the car.

Difference in price is at least 1000. And you need HPFP for sure, while for Powermax you do not need one. Power is lower for sure. But it can be safe daily car with 420HP.

Not sure what would be best place to insert two videos related to 280 exhaust sound. I have done resonator delete modification and I can clearly hear more deeper noise from exhaust from 2750rpm to maybe 4000rpm inside of the car. I will check in following month if it is annoying or not for long distance traveling. 2750rpm is around 120km/h. Further modifications I have are Milltek 200 cell HJS Downpipe and Do88 Intercooler with Stage 1 tune, intake elbow and silicone hose. So higher turbo pressure is present and you can hear it during launch and also audible farts on manual upshift in S on flyby. Hope these videos will help somebody to decide if this mode is for them or not as I could not found some some good ones on YouTube. Most of them have modification of backboxes too or downpipe without cat. 200 Cell Downpipe adds little to nothing to the sound by itself. Resonator Delete Manual Upshift Farts Resonator Delete Launch Control

So, any news? What they have achieved with Powermax and or HPFP/LPFP?

Najverovatnije je problem sa senzorom kvaliteta vazduha, a on je zaduzen za otvaranje klapne svezeg vazduha. It is most likely there is problem with Air Quality Sensor (usual thing) as this sensor is in charge for fresh air distribution via flap.

Old topic, but let's contribute. Today installed Milltek SSXVW349 on Skoda Superb 280. Perfect fit as I have expected. I have to measure if there is change in performance, feels like mid-range is better, but I have to confirm it. Audible change is almost not distinct. On idle, city driving, I can not hear the difference. On full throttle it is also not obvious, at least not from the inside. For sure there is some change, but not that is night and day. Car is already Stage 1, so noise was harder than stock due to higher turbo boost. Supposedly rear O2 sensor is already disabled in the map, so I should not have any codes related to downpipe installation. And 200cell cat helps too. So, to confirm that downpipe from Golf 7R is suitable for 280 for sure.