Leodis41

Well my new to me estate has a rattle load bay roller cover. I have removed the unit several times to make sure it’s not loose in the clips and have even Tessa taped the contact surfaces but it still rattles on rougher surfaces. I think the rattle is internal,has anybody else had this issue and if so is there a fix for it? Thanks.

Well I have just had to replace my 2018 Octavia hatch with a 2019 Combi, same engine and gearbox etc and went to put the flappy paddle steering wheel from my old car to my new. The wheel is a VRS wheel made in 2016, the change was easy but the air bag in my 2019 is a different size and shape to my old one. Does anybody know the part number for the air bag for the VRSwheel so I can buy the right one? I attached a photo of the steering wheel label if this of help. Cheers

No worries, I never even twigged mine was a vw card in a Skoda! I just assumed they were interchangeable turns out there not. Anyhow all sorted and we’ve added to the pool of knowledge.

Well that got complicated fast. So I ordered and received a genuine Skoda card, plugged it in and the system said no map data. I checked the card and it had full map data on it. I spoke with card supplier who told me to check various things and do a reset, no joy. In the end I sent photos of my system screen and memory card. My memory card was actually a VW card and the Skoda card was not compatible with my Skoda head unit! They sent me a VW card which works perfectly. I can only assume that the head unit has been changed at a VW dealers at some stage.

Thanks guys, ordered one now.

I want to get a larger SD card for my Amundsen unit so I can install one of the larger maps. My current card is a VW Navigation AS Europe 1 card 3G0 919 866 BC. I understand I need a compatible VW/Skoda card, can anyone advise which 32GB card I can use? Many thanks.

@pab567 Hi Pab can you send me the latest firmware, my system is acting up and rebooting. Thanks

Can somebody confirm the rating of fuse 42. Mines only had a 15amp fuse in when it blew so swapped like for like, but it seems a bit small? Thanks.

Thanks for the feed back. The issue is after a 200m round trip the battery should have charged more than 80%. With engine on lights on rear heated screen, mirrors and working the steering wheel the alternator should have been kicking out 14.4v ish, not 13v. The battery load tested okay but the alternator gear reported Output too low. Spoke to the stealers and an indie specialist who both agreed alternator.

Well I have had a few low battery warnings in the last couple of weeks so I had the battery tested thinkings it’s 5 years old probably needs changing. Took it in to my local battery specialist who checked battery and said it was good, bit low on charge though. Because of the warnings and the fact I had just done a 200 mile round trip they checked the alternator for me and found on full load, lights on rear heater, radio and car in defrost the alternator was only giving out 13.3v and advised alternator was on its way out. Heres the scary bit, new alternator fitted by Skoda is £968.00!! An aftermarket Lucas alternator is £588.00 fitted. When did alternators get so expensive? Going on holiday soon so getting a new Lucas one fitted, can’t believe a genuine one will be worth the extra £400.00, any thoughts?

Do a search, there’s been at least one case of a cracked head that passed the cold pressure test but would use coolant when the engine was hot and running.

Have a look on the fitting a reversing camera thread, or look on u tube there is one video on fitting the camera which shows how the panels are removed. Hope this helps

Only thing I would add is that on my 1.5tsi every time it restarts after a stop start, the camera restarts as the voltage drops below the cut off limit of 11.5v. i had my battery tested at a specialist who told me it’s quite common with AG cars for this to happen. i just turn off stop start as it is annoying and Sod’s law says the accident would happen when the camera was restarting!

I’d love to put the battery on charge but don’t have a smart charger and live in a terrace house so can’t plug a charger in. I’ve looked into a new battery but this where it gets a bit strange, the current battery is 420a CCA while all the online selectors are quoting for a 600a CCA? Can anybody confirm what battery they have fitted in a 1.5tsi dsg? Cheers

Yes the capacitor is there for that but the hardwire kit is cutting power. Just tested, 12.2v with nothing on dropping to 11.1v cranking. This is below the safety cut off for the hardwire kit so it is cutting power to the camera and the camera is switching off thinking the ignition is off. So I need to go for a good run to charge the battery fully, or worst case a new battery. Will keep turning off the stop start to give the battery a chance. Thanks for all the advise folks, looks like we have got to the route of the problem.

Mine does it as well. I think what happens is that as you are rushing you get on the throttle before the gear box has finished the shift so as the clutch engages you have throttle on so you get a snappier response.

The cam is a Viofo A119 v3 with an Ilway hard wire kit. The cam has a capacitor in it and I had a previous version in my old car which was fine, albeit from the cig socket before. The hardwire kit apparently has low voltage cut off at 11.6v so I’ll get the battery tested as it is 3 years old and the car has only done 19000 miles in that time so may need a good run to get some charge in it. Thanks for reply guys.

I started on fuse 47, rear wiper and then 34 because it mentions stop/start. Any suggestions folks?

Well I have another hard wire kit I can try as well as the cig lighter lead.

I don’t know, next experiment is to bypass the gps module and see what happens?

I hear you but it keeps running with the engine off and switches off when the engine restarts.

I agree it’s seeing voltage drop during the restart, I wondered if it was a battery issue but if that was the case the S/S would disable. Could the canbus be interrupting the power to maximise battery voltage for the restart?

I picked my new Octavia last weekend and hard wired my new dash cam to a switched supply. Everything was fine til I noticed the cam kept restarting. I realised that it happened every time the car restarted after S/S. I’ve tried different fuses and it still happens. Any ideas folks? Thanks.

The only way the engine can turn but not the cam pulleys, is if the crank pulley is not turning with the crank. Unfortunately that would result in the pistons hitting the valves, so a major rebuild would be required. Hope I am wrong.

I have been using a Viofo cam for several years. Great video quality and a really discreet unit. I thoroughly recommend them. I got mine off Aliexpress - VIOFO A119 V3 2K 60fps Car Dash Cam Super Night Vision Quad HD 2560 * 1440P Car DVR with Parking Mode G-sensor optional GPS.