UndertheRadar

I would want a known working lock before diving into wiring diagrams. If nothing obvious looks broken in the connectors, then I’d firstly make sure the used lock was compatible with the rear electronic activation child lock function. If it’s not, the lock will not work. I think a brand new rear lock genuine from TPS for mine a few years ago was £250, with the drivers door switchable child lock function.

Yes, then runs as normal when the engine is warm.

Running E5 and mapped for 97ron as that’s the best we can get over here. Literally no where does a 99ron fuel. Ambient was just literally the outside temp in this case. The coolant at the radiator outlet sensor was reading within 1 degree Celsius of that. Think outside was 16c and outlet reading was 15c. Main coolant sensor, which in my case on this version of the engine is on the side of the head under the vacuum pump, was reading anything from 78c-81c. Car had sat all night and hadn’t been started so I could check the readings. Plugs were changed about 2 weeks ago for another set of genuine OE plugs, which from memory are really just NGK platinum plugs. These get changed every two years and are set to 0.028 and were still perfect when I removed them for inspection.

Adding this for anyone that comes across the same issue. Noticed a slightly extended crank a day or so ago, along with a few seconds worth of poor idle and then ran as normal. Checked for codes, and none showing. Checked plugs when I got home again and all ok. Checked the lpfp count and was at or around 50% at idle. No hesitation or misfires and none detected on scanner. Rail holding pressure within parameters and both lpfp and hpfp showing requested and actual pressures where they should be. Checked the plugs again this morning on a cold engine for damp, and they were dry and showing no signs for concern. And now for the culprit. On a stone cold engine, the engine coolant temp sensor was showing 80c while the radiator outlet sensor showed about 1c within ambient air temp. A new coolant temp sensor now fitted and all showing back within normal tolerance levels and no more extended crank issue. Just thought this might be useful for anyone with the same problem now or in future and hopefully it saves them time and money.

Looks like auxiliary pump failure. Usual suspect is rear aux pump. Situated at rear of engine low down. Front aux pump situated at front of vehicle closer to bumper. Follow the coolant hoses to make it easier to identify.

They will do it at a price. You’d be far better off talking to a good VAG independent garage IMO.

Check the expansion tank for Mit Silikat on the top. If it’s on it then it has a bag in the tank. They were prone to failing and blocking the system, taking the matrix with them. There is an official VAG flush but the matrix is normally in need of replacement when this happens. I and others here have removed the tank and replaced it with a silikat free tank, and some without the double skinned inner chamber have been lucky enough to remove the bag with long nose pliers or something similar.

Good chance the bags burst in the coolant bottle and blocked the matrix.

As MarioVrs has stated, the car in standard form is wild unstable. Mine used to under steer extremely badly until I changed the front and rear roll bars, links, and added Bilstein B6 and Eibach springs. I’d say your tyres are only a small part of the issue.

In the interests of science, I tested this today while changing my carbon activated filter. Air Care will activate and set with no filter present in the car at all. It also runs with a standard pollen filter, as I have one that was supplied incorrectly and I was told to keep it while they sent out the correct filter that was ordered. I’d say a fault is likely due to whatever mixer flap they use to isolate the system through the pollen filter while the setting is activated. Never had to look into it, so that’s just a best guess scenario.

There’s one on you tube for the VC as well. Think it’s on a seat version, but basically the same sequence to reset the service interval without using the obd11 app.

It’s the VAG version. I have a pro lifetime account and it’s running on an iPhone.

It’s in this section on mine under other and then settings.

Pull those plugs out after a couple of thousand miles and check to make sure they are not covered in carbon. Seems to be an issue with some tunes as the step colder is not really needed over the OEM plug. I’m sure the car feels completely different now. Mine did. Makes them such a useful daily tool, and a much more pleasant experience for safe overtaking and general driving.