Steve8O

Hi, You will need a set of these; Skoda HU keys There will be 2x Torx25 screws behind top of the screen. Then 2 slots at bottom of screen for the keys to go in and then screen will come right out. Head Unit will be behind screen and will be Torx25 screws again to slide out. I cant remember the colours of cables, but when you connect to them you will need a line output converter. You can try a passive converter like this but when I tried using a passive device like this I could terrible interference from the CANBUS system, whining through speakers with acceleration, and buzzing with indicator and brake lights. So in the final setup I went for a fully active device like this as it will give the best possible signal to your active sub as well as eliminating any interreference to your stock system. Best of luck

Had my Scala for 3.5 years now, I get the Front Assist error every time there is any form of light mist in the weather. That can include very fine rain, fog or indeed mist. All it means is that the detection system to predict an impact and apply the brakes a spilt second quicker than yourself will not be available. It seems to be that the density of the fine water build up or possible humidity causes the sensor to become impaired. Driving for long enough through said weather condition will eventually get the error to clear. A good tip is to use a rinse aid or hydrophobic coating in your car wash routine and this will help water run off the sensor in misty conditions. Regarding the TPMS sensors, the ones fitted to the Scala are simply rolling resistance sensors, not actual pressure sensors. This means they are not incredibly accurate and can vary in performance based on tyre size, driving style, and all sorts. It also means that if all 4 tyres deflate in a uniform fashion the sensors wont pick up on any anomaly in rolling resistance. A tip, good local independent garages will offer free tyre checks especially in the winter, if your tyres are low they will inflate them for free. I get mine done every 3-4months. Hope this helps

The only way to find out how hard this is going to be is to take the interior door card off. Once removed, if the wiring and plug connectors are already there for the speakers then retrofitting them will be a piece of cake. I would assume this is the likely case, as most car manufacturers put complete wiring looms in to all vehicles but them leave out the components based on the trim specification. So if you can get hold of the speakers this is well worth a go. If for some mad reason the wiring and connectors aren't in the door card then this will be an extremely time consuming and some-what difficult job.

I see about 1 a day around my part of the country, Leighton Buzzard. Which seems quite a lot compared to the rest of you, but is still very rare given the amount of cars passed on a daily basis. Most seem to be the base S model, an odd SE every so often. I'm the same as a lot of you in that a little bit of me lights up every time I see one, sending out a telepathic 'hey, nice choice' Had mine since March 2020, registered 2 days before lock down 1! Got a cracking deal, as was more normal pre-pandemic. Currently has 27,000 miles on the clock, still drives great, still love it and going to enjoy it for many more years. I'm not sure many of the other drivers would even recognise mine as a Scala now though.

Quick little update New rims! TSW Sebring 19x8.5j with Goodyear Eagle F1 Asym 6 225/35/19 Wanted something as unique as the Scala and really pleased with how they look and sit.

I had Eibachs, lowering 30mm all around, for about 6 months. They were a good spring and gave a much better look and handling to the car. With my setup, the more modifications I did I personally felt as though the dampers went a bit soft with time. Now, that could be the case but it could also be just my perception as I was desiring a stiffer and more sporty ride. Ultimately both Eibach and H&R test their lowering springs with stock dampers and sell them to be used in that manner, it is only when looking at their marketed 'sport' springs that they suggest uprated dampers.

Hi Dave, Just springs will be fine for that look at Eibach or H&R

I can highly recommend the genuine - child seat protection mat I have had one of these under my sons maxicosi car seat for the last 2 years in my Scala and it has done a great job at protecting the cushion underneath from the harsh plastic, metal isofix runners and all the mess a 3-5 year old makes! Regards to covering the whole rear, i'm not so sure. May be acceptable to buy 2 of these child seat protectors and one child just sit on that instead of the cushion, they are padded so wouldn't be uncomfortable. I, like you also have the rubber mats and tunnel cover in the rear, they are brilliant. Super easy to clean and very robust. I would say to point out early to your boys to be careful when scrabbling across the tunnel, the vents in the rear of the arm rest are flimsy and my boy put his foot through it. It was easy to disassemble and repair myself but very fiddly and a job I wouldn't want to do again. Enjoy your Scala.

haha, I actually wouldn't mind doing more builds. I found this really great fun and very rewarding. A lot of things I was doing for the very first time, so improvements could be made for sure, especially with the upholstery. The carpet and vinyl are the bit everyone sees but are very tricky to get looking professional. Good for you getting stuck into Revit. The planning is by far the key part, if all your measurements are on point and you have planned well then the rest is just following the path you have laid out for yourself.

Brilliantly informative and practical video Here are my latest attempts Using Canon EOS M50 II with sigma 30mm 1.4

Continuing from my audio project I decided to upgrade the boot to a showcar worthy install. First step, take all measurements from boot and put into 3D software to design false floor with window and calculate volume capacity from a wheel well enclosure Volume of box calculated at 41l so had to shop for a sub that would perform well in this volume capacity. Matching up an Amp with a new sub I had to decide how to mount the new Amp based on pre-existing wiring. I used 6mm MDF between carpet and wheel arch to mount and support the amp, feels very solid. Also can use the tether point to bring wires through and keep everything hidden. Next up was to relay the designs on to 6mm MDF for the floor and 18mm MDF for the enclosure Proceeding with the floor first. I used a router to cut out the window and retain the inset panel. Test it fits Cut window frame from second layer of 6mm MDF and cut window to see the sub through. Used router again and chamfer bit to create a more professional finish. I had also pre cut some lettering from 2mm ABS plastic. The SSUK is the watermark I use for my instagram images with user name @skodascalauk This was measured and printed on to card, cut out and glued onto the plastic which was then cut out using a small fine handsaw. Using contact adhesive I covered the lower layer with sub window in vinyl white leatherette fabric. Using a heat gun to gently warm the fabric over the lettering and give a finished embossed effect. The top floor was then trimmed in anthracite carpet to match the stock boot lining. Moving on to the sub enclosure I used a router with circular jig to create the top wall of the box, I believe this is called the stacking method. The other walls were then cut to size using my father-in-laws table saw. The rings were stacked using wood glue and nails, then walls were held up with clamps while the wood glue set. All walls assembled, phonocar tube port added and phonocar terminal. Top of box left to go on once the hole for the sub was cut out, again using the router. I nailed all the walls through the base and the top panels of the box to enforce the structure rather than simply relying on wood glue. Trimmed the top and bottom in black carpet, and cut a panel to run around the sides. Contact adhesive used with a wallpaper roller and plastic trim tools. With the box fully trimmed, time to wire it up. Using a twin core cable with 2.5mm pos and neg cables inside, nice and tidy. Fitted into wheel well and wiring up to the amp. The big reveal. @JohnnyType2would love to get your opinion as you were such a huge influence on the whole of this project. I know a lot of people will poop their pants at getting rid of the spare wheel for a sub enclosure, but this works for me. Nearly 90% of my journeys are under 6 miles these days. Should I run into a situation I will either call a friend or taxi to take me to pick up the spare from my garage. On longer journeys I will simply put the spare in the boot on the new boot floor or in one of the rear passenger footwells to ensure that I have it with me. But for the most part I now have a full boot space again for practicality of daily life plus a full custom install. Hope you all like it

Haha, yes the one from CR is an original with genuine skoda black magic metallic paint so it fits perfectly with the black grille frame. It is a lot of money for a badge though I agree.

Hi @sjb my Scala also a 1.0 TSI (115 6G manual) just had it's second year service last week, also on 17k. I actually replaced all my discs and pads in December to EBC Turbo grooved discs and greenstuff pads as they had a black friday deal on. However my original discs and pads had very minimal wear and were/are in very good condition so I am very surprised to hear yours have worn as much as this. I still have the original discs and pads of you would like any photos to see wear then by all means just ask.

Hi @hetty1 have you managed to find a Scala or Fabia Estate to your taste and budget yet? There seems to be a broad range of opinion on the Scala model here which is good and I hope has been useful to you in making your judgement. I personally have a SEL 1.0TSI 115 6G with a few additional options. It was purchased in March 2020 with lockdown 1.0 looming. I had a previous relationship with Dennis Horton in Lincoln so gave them a call to place my order. They actually found the exact spec I was after arriving into port that day as a display model for another dealer. So a few phone calls were made by them and sure enough, it was registered and collected 7 days later. You may be thinking to yourself why is this relevant, well personally I have found that a lot of problems/niggles have arisen in the backlog of production through the pandemic. The Scala went into production May 2019 with first registrations 3 months later. So 69 and 20 plates are not likely to suffer any pandemic problems. I wont talk too much on mine as it is highly modified now and wont be relevant to your situation. However I shall comment on some of the items already mentioned. Amundsen crashing issue - yes had it - sorted with a software patch, not been a problem since. Emergency SOS recall - yes got the letter - got it sorted with dealer - never actually had a fault with it though. Lane Assist - yes dangerous - however as mentioned mine is modified, it is now 45mm lower and hence I had the ADAS (Auto Driving Assistance Systems) re-calibrated at a professional alignment and performance centre in Northampton. I would have had done it by Skoda - but all four of my local skoda dealers/servicing partners didn't have the kit to do it! Since having it re-calibrated it behaves entirely different to how it did from factory. I would say I drive with it on about 50/50 of my journeys. Start/Stop not working. It is a small battery in the Scala, however it is well up to the task. The issue is more that, for all the tech in modern cars they are not overly 'smart' if there is a draw on the battery that is not there from stock, ie you have a dashcam wired in, then the system will disable the auto start/stop in order to preserve the battery levels, as the biggest drain on the battery is starting the car. The system doesn't know if its a dashcam or full industrial generator plugged in, all it knows is there is an unidentified draw on the battery so it does what it's programmed to do. I have fully upgraded the audio in mine with around 800w RMS now being pumped through the system. Start/Stop has been permanently disabled ever since, however at my 2 year service recently the battery levels were checked and all was fine, which shows this little battery and the alternator is more than up to the task. Now owned for 2 years, 17k miles, as mentioned just had second year service, all is great.

Just for aesthetic purposes, naturally it does very slightly improve handling as it is widening the track and lowering the center of mass. On the Eibachs I had 20mm each side at the rear, and 16mm each side at the front which looked fairly flush with the bodywork. On the Bilsteins I have 22mm each side at the rear and 20mm each side at the front due to additional camber occuring from the ride height. And have used 45mm and 50mm extended wheel bolts from Bimecc. The other alternative is to switch to an aftermarket alloy moving from the stock 7j to an 8j or 8.5j with a correct ET to get the fitment you desire, although this can be considerably more money than spacers.