TheUltraRunner

This cable goes in between the original connectors under the plastic behind the handle for opening the hood? Correct?

Finally installed! A TUV approved exhaust with active flaps. 😎

Manual vs automatic makes a ton of difference. With manual you have a lot more control over this function since the engine shuts down only when you have your gearbox in N and clutch is released. With auto, engine shuts down every time the car stops moving. Sometimes even a little bit before the car totally stops.

I was told that the car should pass the inspection even without the OPF. At least here in Slovenia. I don't know how strict is the inspection in Estonia. Sprot cat should be fine. Race cat I doubt it.

@Mario_Delgado Found another one. This one makes a lot more sense since it also includes Drive Mode memory module. https://www.active-sound.eu/en/memory-module/drive-select-memory-modul-dsm-modul-mqb-evo-with-ssa-touchbutton

I was told by my mechanic that even if the engine light comes on (because of opf delete), it's totally fine to drive the car. Sport cat vs race cat. Race cat is less restrictive than sport cat. Air intake + muffler delete + downpipe with OPF delete + complete exhaust, all these mods are stage 2 ready, which can give you between 350 and 380 KM. Depends on the tune and other factors. Of course for Stage 2 remap, a bigger intercooler is strongly recommended. Also oil change every 7500 to 10000 km is highly recommended.

Yeah I know. Would wish that they would make a stand alone module for only SS. And a bit cheaper.

@Mario_Delgado There is another option. A bit more expensive. But it's made in Germany and not in China. Video is in German though. https://asr-component.de/de/597-octavia-iv-alle-modelle

The crash clip was vibrating when listening to the radio. Even at mid volume. I think it didn't vibrate while only driving and not listening to any music.

My dealer called in January to tell me there is a TPI available for my car for upgrading from 1788 to 1941. Told me the factory is trying to upgrade all the cars with version lower than 1896 to the latest so cars will be able to get major updates over OTA.

I have a 3 years and 3 months old TSI RS with DCC with around 50k miles and no issues with the dampers.

6.5x17" rim with 205/55 tire is the smallest approved tire for the mk4 TSI RS Octavia with 340mm brake discs. These are homologation approved dimensions from factory:

Hmmm are you sure? M1 etc is shown only when you are driving in manual mode. And it's the same in all driving modes. We all wish that. 😁

Yeah, physical speedos are normally linear since (I guess) it's not that easy to make it move in different increments? But on digital speedos I guess anything is possible.

This is in km/h. Never bothered me. Why would this be an issue?

I checked and on the box it says only Octavia Combi.

I just measured the original front ones and the Bosch A102S and the lengths of the rubber blades are the same.

I don't know that unfortunately.

Sorry, I don't quite understand how the taxation works in the UK. But if I would need to choose between the DCC and the el. seats, I would probably choose the DCC.

I bought these two for my estate Front: Bosch A102S Back: Bosch A331H

I have both. And if I would be specing a new car again, would again take both. I heard from others that a none DCC car hardness is in between the DCC standard and sport setting. Which would be a bit hard on a bad roads for me. And the UK roads being notorious bad, I would says DCC is a must if you also like comfort driving.

Ohh you are correct. The cable is already sleeved. I guess your best option is to add the foam to the door card. Or at least add some foam to the area of the sound and where the cable meets the metal.

Mine changed automatically.

I have zero noise on either of the front doors. In addition to the foam on the door card, I would also strongly suggest to wrap the door handle cable into something soft. Here is the picture of my door before final installation.

You need to remove the complete door card and check from behind. This part, which you are pushing, is one piece and can't be separated. Could it be that when you push it actually hits the door metal? I would start with removing the door card and check what this going on behind. Check if this part makes the same noise once the door card is separated from the door. Then I would start adding some sound deadening foam at the back of the door card.