JohnnyJohnBoy

Absolute novice detailer here... I had to take off the wheel to get the arch liner out so I gave the caliper a good clean...it was almost entirely black so probably rarely been cleaned in it's 11 years life. I've managed to get it to a pretty good state using detergent and then iron out and a very fine wire wool and a lot of time but it still not 100%. I used the iron out but I'm not convinced it actually does much more than any other cleaner...can anyone recommend a cleaner that will clean the calipers with like no effort at all Once I get them clean-ish I'm going to try waxing them with Finish Kare 1000p Hi-Temp sealant. While the arch liners are out I've give the arches a bit of a clean and I'm goint to clean the liners which are absolutely caked in bit chunky tar spots and similar.

Oh, not sure i dare look

Is the badge where the water gets in orginally, or is it just soaked up in the foam gasket?

I approached my local dealership who batted away my suggestion they my like to consider my rust as a warranty issue. Not too suprised really. I'll probably take it to my local bodyshop. As @Hudson1says, maybe they have changed the gasket now on that part.

Keep us informed if you do fix this yourself - I've to tackle this at some point later in the summer so would be useful to see how you go on, please. Thanks

@Wino many thanks for all your help with this. As you say it doesn't seem to be causing any issues ATM so I will just monitor it for now and see if anything changes. I'll report back if anything else happens with it.

I've made no progress with this as yet but have been messing about with graphs so thought I'd post another one showing the normed load along with reported oil temp. I've no proper understanding of what normed load is but the dropout in oil temp correlates quite well with it nearing maxium..... Am a bit stumped now because apart from taking the instrment panel circuit board out of its plastic housing and checking connections in there I can't really think what else to do. I can't understand if it's possble to get a good eyeball on the wires without taking loads of stuff off the engine and unwrapping wiring looms..something I don't really have the confidence to do. Oh..and in the interest of full disclosoure...OBD 11 also gives the following fault codes related to the AC not working. It currently has no refridgerant in it - came like that when I got it 2 months ago - just incase they could be relevant 01 - Engine U102500 - A/C Control Module - Read out DTC 08- Air conditioning 00819 - High Pressure sensor - lower limit not reached I'll keep scratching my head and come back if I have a break through

Ah...I've zoomed in a lot on this in the graph below and it shows quite clearly two flat spots at same time as the oil temp drops.

I forgot to add a link to the other thread I mentioned above so will just attachment it here - might be useful for someone else in the future.

Yes, there is a nice attachment describing the basic operation of the sensor in another thread from last year (). It does seem that both the oil temp and level are digitally coded into a pulse-width modulated signal sent over the one signal wire..... ...which makes the following very odd indeed... I got some live data from OBD11 of a few variables as the anomaly happened and put it on the graph below. However, this is data from the engine control unit (01) rather than the instrument panel (17) as I couldn't find engine speed as an output option on (17). I assume (01) gets it from (17) via CANBUS or something? Engine rpm scale on the left axis....all others on the right axis Both dropouts in reported oil temp coincide with me putting my foot down - the first drop goes down to a min reading of -35 deg. C , the second drop goes down to about 10 deg. C.....both physically unlikely ....BUT given that both the oil temp and level are coded on the same signal wire it's odd that the oil fill level remains pretty constant - maybe it's being averaged out or doesn't get sampled very often? Could it be the brand new sensor is also dodgy? Unlikely, surely? Ok...I do have an iron but am a bit nervous about destroying something if I try this. Fabia oil temp readings (1).pdf

I don't think it is. I'll add it to my list of things to double check. I'm thinking I might try to get some live data recorded as it happens, maybe engine rpm, speed, load, oil temp etc to see if it happens just in specific circumstances.

Yeah...I'm getting to think that it is not a random loose or dogdy connection but something very specific and consistent that is causing it. But it's probably worth checking out the circuit board connector to be sure.

Thanks for that @Wino Maybe I've been doing it wrong but I've been trying to provoke the fault with the ignition on but engine off. Interestingly, OBD11 will give me live data for the oil temp for the cold engine reporting a reasonable figure of 15-16 deg. C. even though the maxidot display wil only show "---" until the temp reaches 50 deg. C. I don't know whether I am placing too much trust in the live data I'm getting from OBD11? I manged to get the instrument cluster out pretty easily and wiggled and jiggled the wires and connector going in the back without any success. I didn't even think about going further and getting inside the housing to the circuit board so maybe that will be the next step. I took it out for a drive and within a short time was able to get the fault to occur when putting my foot down. One thing I did notice was the wires from the sensor run up and between the engine block and the supercharger(?) so I'm wondering if it might be something to do with the supercharger doing it's boost thing? PS: I spent ages trying to figure out where the earth cable went because I didn't understand that it would be joined to other eaths and wrapped up in one of those looms and not easily accessible.

Genuine part purchased from local Skoda dealer - £120 nearly.

Managed an hour routing about today but no solution as yet...my approach was as follows, guided by Wino's suggestions Checked fuse (SB3) for dirty contacts looseness -- all seems ok I connected to my OBD11 app and went to live data from the enginge ECU to display both oil level and temperature Ignition on, engine off I then wiggled and pulled the following while monitoring the live data on OBD11 (I'm not entirely sure this is a valid way to look for a dodgy connection/wire?) ---- the fuse SB3 ---- the sensor connector --- the 14 pin connector in the engine bay. I'm still not confident I understand where each wire is going, so will keep at it I've not checked anything on the dash connector as yet (not idea how to get to it) and I've not managed to find the physical earth connections yet either I'll hopefully get more time to take another look tomorrow..