Joob

Tkss 👌 but there's no problem using this engine, right? just because it has more power.. Yes I know.. but at the time it seemed like the right thing to do and I also put in a new one for 1.7kw.

Exactly .. Tell me.. I had put in a 1.1Kwh starter instead of a 1.7Kwh starter. That video above of it turning on was with the 1.7Kwh starter. I have a 61Ah 600A battery. But that can't influence it, right?

In other words, the machine was left on for about 5 minutes, I turned it off and assembled everything and put in the 3-electrode spark plugs, and assembled the rest. After assembling everything, no, the machine didn't start! I thought it was strange and went to put in the old 1-electrode spark plugs (because in the video above they were with the old spark plugs) and it's funny that they didn't start either. In the meantime, I went to see if the coil was sparking with both plugs and it was sparking badly, only once in a while. I thought it was strange and went to buy a new coil thinking that the old coil had died. I put in the new coil and no, it didn't start. I think it's strange :/ it's been working so well and out of the blue it won't start. His ignition fuses are the first 10 and the third 15 ... The relays aren't part of the ignition, right? Any suggestions?

I have news guys. The machine is already on as you can see in the video, and it's just right. vid-20241014-171420_F9GEyG5R.mp4

The last attempt was this and nothing. vid-20241013-172149-8fte4abw_fkl4IY5D.mp4 And the last one because the night is coming vid-20241013-192306-eajz17dj_YdOt69zy.mp4

That's right, I did it afterwards, from 4 to 1, from 1 to 4, from 3 to 2 and from 2 to 3. I made several adjustments with 0.20mm exhaust and 0.25mm intake.. and managed to get the car to start, one time it was hard to start but it started and then I accelerated and it kept going but then it switched off. And one of the times it started badly too and sent a rater.

Check example vid-20241013-154757_ovTLH4ev.mp4

Its the same for cylinder 2 (overlap) with cylinder 3.. The intake was closed and the exhaust valve was open. And even if you loosen the exhaust screw, it's always under pressure and you can't fine-tune it.

Hmm but I have a problem.. For example, when I overlap cylinder 4 with cylinder 1, only the intake valve is loose and the exhaust valve is tight and can't be relieved, so the spring is always under pressure. Cylinder 4 Cylinder 1

Right. I do it the way you were saying, is that it?

The engine head where the spark plugs are located indicates this position: 1 - 4 - 2 - 3 or 1 - 4 - 3 - 2 I dont remember if 2/3 or 3/2 I'll check that again.

Yes, I saw that. But just to understand better... I put on piston 1 and with the exhaust valve closing and the intake valve starting to open from piston 4 I tune piston 4 with 0.20mm and 0.25mm ... then piston 3 with piston 1 etc ... Right?

Thanks for the tip. Can you give me a simple explanation of how to tune the valves? Is it piston 1 with piston 4? etc. ?

Oh sorry man I didn't see that.. Thank you 👌

Alright, thank you. I managed to test the compression with a handmade tool from a friend. Piston Bars (from left to right) ---- 1 Piston - 3 bars 2 Piston - 2.5 bars 3 Piston - 3 bars 4 Piston - 1 bar They would all have to be around 3 bars, right? I'll try to look up the valve sizes, does anyone know?

Thank you for you reply. I'll check their measurements. Do you know the correct valve values? Yap is cheap 20€ more or less

Yes, it has a very strange sound... it spins very freely. It's like that, I thought about the valves too, but I don't think they were touched when I had the head rectified. I've done it once and I didn't have to touch the valves. Can you tell me what the intake and exhaust measurements are? I'm going to put some gas in the throttle area of the intake and see what happens, but surely there must be something wrong with the valves. The strange thing is that the first time I changed the head gasket etc... I turned it on and the car started and was a bit fickle, then I turned it off and it didn't start again until today.

I need to buy this one. Check the another video .. The crankshaft sensor is new but nothing dammm vid-20241012-120942_jGVd4sD3 (1).mp4

Nice videos of test spark plugs 👌 I don't have a reader to read this car. To reset the ecu, all you have to do is disconnect it from the battery and wait 10 minutes ? I've left it unplugged all night to let the battery charge and still nothing. I've always assumed that the ECU opens the throttle slightly on its own, but even if it did I didn't turn it on, and I've sprayed brake cleaner and nothing. Petrol has pressure, it comes on strong, I've seen that. I don't have any tools to check the compression... but I've changed the head gasket and reworked the head.... Is not possible from this ?

Hello guys.. Now I test the crankshaft sensor and I think its not good. When I try generate voltage, it only gives me 0 volts, it doesn't generate 3/5 volts Is this the right way to test it? Thank you guys

So... I went to test the ignition coil again. (the video makes some noise) The ignition coil is ok alright ? Does the spark seem ok? bobine.mp4 When I turn the key and it tries to start, shouldn't the throttle open slightly? While I was trying to open the throttle, I could sometimes hear a explosion (plok). The video starting.. Opening the butterfly enginer 2.mp4 The crankshaft sensor must have been replaced about 1y or 2y a ago. What would be the way to test it with a multimeter? values etc.?

Thank you for your reply. It doesn't turn on with 1 electrode as much as with 3 electrodes. The first video had everything connected, spark plugs etc. with both new and old plugs. It even started once, but then I turned it off, changed the spark plugs to old ones and it didn't start again, etc. Oh correct.. Can I touch the spark plug to the valve cover? And is that the right part of the spark plug? Do they all need to be or is just one enough? The problem is that the spark plugs are filled with petrol when I try to start the motor, because there is no explosion/spark.

I it looks like the problem is in the coil. they don't spark at all, neither with the new spark plugs nor with the old ones. ignition coil.mp4

I also forgot to mention that when I try to start the car, the pistons/plugs are filled with gasoline, i.e. there doesn't seem to be any spark, whether the plugs are old or new.

Hello guys, That's it, I've changed the head/exhaust/intake gasket and the bolts etc. I also bought new spark plugs, but when I bought them, I noticed that the old ones I had were 1-pole, and the new ones were/are 3-pole, is that OK? I put in the old 3-pole ones, connected everything up, etc. I started the machine and it started, but the engine was a bit shaky, inconsistent and if I stopped accelerating the car would die. In the meantime, I thought, it's just the spark plugs, so I put the old 1-pole plugs back in. I went to start it and it just spun and spun and spun and the engine wouldn't start. I put the 3-pole spark plugs back in and it didn't start again. To this day it won't start again, it just goes round and round. I also noticed that the flywheel rotates the pistons, because in the video you can see the valve screw moving. (video below) sound when turn on.mp4 I thought it sounded strange and ordered a new starter motor, thinking that the one I had was damaged. This video above is just with the new starter. I began to think it was strange and that it might be the spark plug coil that wasn't sparking the plugs. Is it OK to test the spark plugs in this way if they spark? I don't know if you can tell me the correct measurement values for these coils. I measure the coil itself, where the old ones fit in, and they're all around 8.30ohms. I measured the pins where the plug fits, and on the multimeter in the diode area, I measured the pins and it only read the 2nd, 3rd and 4th pins, giving 1.5 and 1.9, more or less. The fuses are OK, I've tested them. I've done these gasket changes before and had no problems. Has anyone ever had a situation like this? Best Regards, Joob