Joob

Great Guys.. Thanks to all of you for the tips/help. The problem was solved, new alternator and new belt, flawless engine and 14.20v TOP ! You can check here https://golink.co/share/ewsI37Md1JwM0lmK Password: 123

I have this picture here. For example, I loosen the screw and with a wrench (that black part that is around the screw.), I turn the tensioner downwards (or to one side), and it loses a little tension, right? and as soon as I release it, it gains tension, right?

Oh great dude ! ty On the other hand, it is like this. I just need a spanner where the red arrow is now, to rotate the shaft. I have never swapped on this machine before. Very thkss for the info !

Ohh I saw a picture of the engine from the side. Just ease the pulley further out on the right side ?

It really is totally different from mine. Mine doesn't have air conditioning, it only has heating. This picture is not of my car, but it looks just like my car. -------------------------- Check the mine alternator/belt.

oh great, and the tensioner is under the alternator is that it ? ty check if is here I am just waiting for the material to arrive, around Monday, and when I assemble it, I will tell you the final result of the problem.

yeah, it's like me, I've never touched this belt on this engine, I've changed the head gasket etc... but never the belt 😛

No, that type of post is very different from mine...mine is from a European car, that's why it changes for sure. The tensioner on this belt should be the pulley with the letter T. Then I will have to relieve the tensioner to loosen the mail, it is like the timing belt in cars. I thought this alternator had a manual regulator and then bolt it on at the same time.

Guys, did u see how to change this alternador ? I didn't see the regulator of tensor. Under of alternator ?

Guys, I have already found the problem. I did the green cable test (nta16 thanks for the link and the tip of green cable), connected it to the negative and it did indeed turn on the battery light (on the panel). That is, as I had already changed the regulator (new) and still did not work, the problem is definitely the alternator, I will order a new one. If it still doesn't work I'll let you know here 😛 (with the new one) kakak Thanks to Everyone for the Help !

Yes 😋 I had seen that info on your link ty If the warning light is damaged, it no longer reads with the alternator, right? And even then it lets the 12v pass through the green cable ?

alternator warning lamp does not come on when ignition is switched on prerequisites: - battery OK - good earth of alternator case and battery minus disconnect D+ cable at alternator that goes to dashboard (green wire usually) and connect it to earth. if warning lamp does not come on, wiring to dashboard or warning lamp are faulty. if warning lamp comes on, remove voltage regulator and inspect carbon brushes (minimum 5-6 mm) if brushes OK, the alternator is faulty. if brushes not OK, the voltage regulator is faulty. I'll test tomorrow 👌

Oh, not that, just with a multimeter, but I will do this test. I'll put a cable on the green wire and touch it to ground. Tomorrow I'll tell you how it went. If this happens, what could it be?

I just tested the green cable, put the red end on it and the black end on the negative and it gave 12.2v and the battery gives me 12.40v. bbbrrr

Alright, I'll put positive on the wire green, and negative on the battery to check voltage. One thing I find strange, is the battery light that I don't think comes on when I ignition on (not start the motor) Only show "Park and Oil" I think. I'll check it again What could it be, if the battery light does not appear?

Hmm.. thanks for the answer... but how can I test the green wire ? if there is signal ? I will also give a sandpaper the pin of this green wire.

Funny thing is, the voltage regulator is new, and even with it gone, without being connected to the alternator, I start the car and the voltage stays the same 12.2v. And with it connected it stays the same. Whether it's not connected or disconnected, it gives the same voltage.

I tested it. Battery without running the car gives the 12.5v. I start the car, it gives 12.20v/12.19v. I tested with the red probe on the red cable of the alternator and with the black probe on the alternator housing, and it was 12.15v/12.20v. I turned on the high beam headlights with the car running and it went down to 12.05v ...

Hmm I will test. How much does it have to be around ?

Yes, I believe this too, that in the old days they manufactured things to last for years and years. Yes, I loosened the carbon brushes when installing the new regulator. I can give this green and red wire from the alternator feed a clean. This alternator is only 5 years old :s ------ It is strange that in 10 minutes on, it drops only 1v. Right?

Hello, I needed your help. I just had a problem with the alternator, it doesn't seem to get the 13v/14v ... I already have a new battery, after that I put a new alternator regulator as shown in the picture, the one on the left is the new one. Installed on Alternator Then I turned the machine on, and it turned on super fine, but the battery kept at 12.20v, it was like 5/10 min at 12.20v, then it went down to 12.19v another 5min, then I turned the machine off. I find it strange that it doesn't give the 13/14v (more the 14v than the 13v). I also found it strange that it could last a long time on and only drop 1v, after about 10min or so. I wonder if the alternator really screamed ?

Yes, very strange, but yes, everything well

Ok, I get it. For the moment I'll leave it at that, it's been responding well, until the sensor map should also be arriving and I'll also test, anything that happens, I'll whistle. Thank for all

kaka Well, it's a hypothesis. Despite getting 12v to the starter wire?

Yap, I think yes Thanks to you guys for all the help Anything I ping here .. However, I ordered the sensor map, just to give that help about at how it's new and such, and then I'll assemble it as soon as I arrive. I got it at a good price