Joob

The normal thing is not being able to turn on right? with the sensor disconnected If it turns on is it because it could be the sensor with problems? In this video I did that, and it turned on fine without the sensor connected, but I had it turned on before. ---- Check Video - I turned it on with the map sensor disconnected, and then connected it.

Now only tomorrow morning... but supposedly it should turn on without the sensor attached or not? If turn engine, does that mean it's ok? If don't turn engine, does it mean it's bad? Are these measurements ok? about this sensor map

Yes, during the day if it turns on with or without the map sensor, it turns on. In the morning I didn't test turning on without the sensor, I could have done it, but I didn't remember.

yap true.. because before, there was also the problem of the temperature on the display, which only marked up to the second dash white, it didn't go beyond that, and with the change of that sensor it was solved. but it didn't solve the problem of not turn on in the morning.

is that the top one I changed on Friday/Thursday .. or is that one ?

I have never changed this part, but I have already changed the tube in front, which at the time was all decayed

but I changed the temperature sensor, and now it shows the temperature on the display and everything. Like this one or is it the coolant sensor? which is on the radiator

I don't know where is the pressure regulator .. can u mark or image ?

Today in the morning, I tried turn on the car and I couldn't. Only when I push the car to go down or on the straight, I get into it, engage the 2nd gear and it turns on. dammm Check when I tried turn on in the morning. don't turn on.mp4

Now the throttle I think it's ok Haven't been making that oscillation.

I think the K&N filters are very good, with better airflow, etc.. by chance I haven't cleaned mine yet, I'll take a look at mine 😛 Yap, when the map is disconnected, the car works well Yap, but I have K&N in another car, not this car 😛 What do you want me to see ? sorry.. Okay, I've already cleaned the butterfly properly .. cleaning the plug at the butterfly, I turned on the machine and it seems that it worked more correctly and that it no longer swayed. Now I'm going to test it tomorrow morning, and see how she handles herself.

I even have a KN in my car, but I'm going to check the filter on this machine. May also not be getting enough air in for the mix.

I'll clean up better, and test and see the result. Yap, 12.6v with cables on and key off.. and without cables it's the same. I'll do that like this Alright.. I don't think I was able to get the clamps down any farther, but I'll see this. That half ball of solder, was the addition of the cable of the starter motor that I had made, to see if it would improve the starting. (I was already doing this for a while). It was right after I pressed the accelerator. I think it's okay to turn off the MAP when the car is on, but I think I remember times when I used to do that, I think the car wanted to go down, I don't remember well. And now he did nothing. I managed to start the car without the MAP turned on and accelerated and it was ok. The rev counter fell and rose, kept swaying slightly, it looked like it was going to die. Is it the cold engine? I don't think I should. As a matter of fact, the air filter has never been changed since I have the car, but it was already a car that didn't move much, it belonged to some old people and was in a garage, but I'll check the filter too. The oil and that's all new. I always clean these more sensitive areas with clean cloths. kakaka good trick in relation to the hole. .. I know it's a example image. Yap, works well without connecter I think it would have to go down or choke when disconnecting the map sensor. Pressure regulator where ? here... ? Good video ty

I just didn't charge the battery, I can't do that.. but it's new, it's with 12.60v I did this this morning, cleaned the cable posts, ECU cables, removed etc. Now it's like this They look dirty, but they're better now, that's leftovers, because I've sanded the areas of the cables etc... up to the grounding cable that is in the chassis Now I will test his connection in the morning, only tomorrow to see the difference, if it really made a difference. This morning I hadn't turned it on, so I cleaned it straight away, etc... and when I turned it on, it called right away. Check Video - First key on after cleaning it even seemed to turn well, it wasn't bad at all, I think this delay is also normal in this type of car. Check Video - Second Video Then I turned it off and on again. Check Video - I turned it on with the map sensor disconnected, and then connected it. Until I started the engine without the sensor disconnected and it turned on. No difference when disconnecting the map sensor plug. And the engine looks weird, in this little acceleration and it seems like it's going down Check Video - Check the pointer, when I accelerate and release...

Yap true .. Would he have to turn on anyway? or turn on call and die soon? I'll try this

But for example, if that engine had problems, it would just click, and no longer make noise, and wouldn't pull the engine right? is that I turn it on and it goes "vrrum vrrumm vruumm" as if the engine wants to start, but it won't start. (turned) How can I test the starter motor with multimeter ?

Alright, I'll do this and check the improvements the car had. I'm the one getting my cars fixed, but this is getting a little boring kakak :b I once opened the starter motor to check the brushes and I still had a good amount of brushes, only if the motor (which makes the boost) is not so good.

No. I'll try that, I'll remove the ECU and waiting 3 min more or less right ? (to reset that) By chance I had seen this tube a while ago, and it was kind of undone until I changed it. I happen to think I've already changed the candles, but I'm going to check them tomorrow morning, do some cleaning, etc... Videos of Engine ------------- For example, in relation to low idle, look at the behavior of the engine, when I accelerate, the engine almost dies, and one of the times it even makes a noise/click when I go to accelerate, in the second 20/22 (video 1). This could all be with a bad reading of something

Yap, alright. I have a device, I'm going to see if I can do some reading on this car. I think when the weather is warmer, I think it takes a while and turns on, I don't remember well. Now it's horrible in the morning. Weather is pretty cold. Is that when starting, the engine turns but does not start. I even thought it was from the battery, because the old woman who was there had a drop to 9.30v which no longer made her turn on. When I put the other new one (with 6 months old) it only dropped to 10.50v .. and by chance it turned on at the time, but the next morning, it didn't turn on again.

I changed that sensor, and still doesn't call in the morning (tested today) I then took it and went to measure the admission sensor ------------- I took a measurement, with the tip on the first pin, counting from the left side to the right. In this case the tip of the multimeter is on the first pin from above and with the other end I was measuring the remaining 3 pins. And gave me these results (I don't know if the measurement is done that way.) ----- Pin Pin 1 > 2 = 395 ohm's 1 > 3 = 795 ohm's 1 > 4 = 365 ohm's It's normal ? Note: I also noticed that when I get engine on, the idle is a little low / unstable (like ~700rpm), I accelerate to 2,000 rpm's / 2,500 rpm's (for example), accelerate again, and the idle drops and is unstable for a few seconds and then comes back to be stable, like at ~850 rpm's (more or less) I think it might have something to do with this sensor, I say.

That's the only way I can turn it on... pushing it in a straight line or downhill, I put on the 2nd gear, put the clutch in and it turns on... yes there is the butterfly, I thought there was something else to mix with. It's simple, the engine don't turn on in the morning, only in the morning.. the engine turns but not turn on.

that is, you have to push the car on a straight line or ramp, enter and put the 2nd gear for it to engage/wake up and vrrum vrrrumm I mean that fuel enters both the carburetor and the injectors it's like this example

I bought one... I noticed it didn't have this ring, I'll see what I have on car... I can also change at the store. I even think I've had the car for 2 years and not for 1 year as I said before. He already had this symptom at the time, but it was rare for him to do that, at the time I bought him. After a while, I changed this sensor and even so it sometimes did. I've already changed the fuel pump, the filter, the starter is ok, it pulls the engine turns, fuel arrives at the injectors and the carburetor (it has both).. I've already changed the battery despite the old age, being reasonably good, I had a new battery. I have already added another direct cable from the starter motor to the battery. I just didn't change the map sensor (from the intake manifold) and this water sensor. I don't believe it's from the crank sensor, because this problem only happens in the morning at 8h when I go out and it stays still 8h, and when I pick it up, it turns on, only in the morning does this happen, when it stops around 14h and in the cold of the night. I'll change that sensor today (at night (22.30h)) .. and tomorrow in the morning I'll test again and I'll give u the feedback.

Exactly, that's what I'm going to do tomorrow, I'm going to buy one sensor temperature and test it out. because the temperature has never risen like the image above (since I have the car)

No, these picture is an example.. my pointer does not pass the second white line. Yes, heater wor and radiator hot too .. Oh yes, crank sensor. Before changing this sensor, it already had some of this problem.