lukk

why it doesn't make sense? I am just looking for a somewhat softer / smoother ride alternative to the OEM shocks since I need to replace them anyway. I'll check with the mechanic about the springs / coils but he mentioned that the oil leak isn't dramatic and I can continue driving with it for some time. So I don't think the shock has been seriously gone or gone for a long time

thanks that's very helpful. B6 are supposed to be stiffer and sportier than the new OEM shocks, is this correct? Would there be shocks that are better at dampening than OEM's, I don't mind loosing some of the handling in exchange for comfort. Also noting that a set of 4 Billsteins would set me back around a grand - I am driving a pleasant but boring 1.6tdi with 120bhp and not a 280bhp TSI so would prefer to spend a significantly lower amount, especially that the car will soon be 8yrs old

Hi , Since one of my rear shocks started leaking (115k km on not so great roads) I am thinking of replacing the rear OEM shocks with a softer alternative as my kids have been complaining about rough ride at the back. Would anyone have a recommendation that doesn't break the bank? I drive a 2016 1.6tdi saloon, ambition version. thanks for all responses

I live in Ireland and drive pretty carefully with a lot of anticipation. I can get it close to ~5.0-~5.1lt / 100 km on average. I live in a suburban area so not that much proper city driving (you'll hit +6l/100km there). I have pretty narrow tyres (215mm) but then a wife and three kids. If you do motorway at around 110km/h you'll also get close to 5l/100km, if you go 120km/h you'll you'll be closer to 5.5l/100km.

that's not surprising the engine is colder and needs to be brought to working temperature, more heat losses during that initial phase

Hi, My car boot lock seized and using the emergency opening mechanism from inside the boot (the little hole for a screwdriver) doesn't help. is there a way to remove the lock mechanism from inside so that I can open the boot and replace the lock? I have a Superb hatchback, no electric tailgate.

I cut the fabric open to see the emergency release mechanism and I was doing everything correctly, it's just that the lock seized up and won't open. Would anyone here know how to remove tlocking mechanism or have a workshop manual? These are the pics I took. I tried to remove the big plastic trim with two visible wholes (there are screws there) but it is kept in place by the very locking mechanism

thanks a lot, I tried the above (pic on the left) and I can feel and hear that the screwdriver is picking something on a spring but unfortunately it didn't help. I'll need to cut the fabric with a sharpie to see what is going on there.

Is there a way to open the boot manually, e.g. from inside the boot? Mine stopped opening although I can hear the mechanism click when I press the relevant button in the car, on the lid or the car key.

Hi my boot doesn't open anymore. I can hear the mechanism clicking when I use the console button /key fob / button at the boot but nothing happens. Is there a manual way to open the boot from the inside? It's the manual boot, no camera. Pic form inside attached

it really depends on the wheel size and spec of the car and what the roads in your country are made off. it seems that those of us in the UK, Ireland and Australia, where roads are made of small pebbles joined by bits of asphalt are complaining the most about the road noise. When I drove the car on French motorways, where the surface is as smooth as the skin on my balls, there was next to road noise. Drive it in Ireland and on some stretches it was deafening at 120km

it will likely make them appear more since as part of the sound deadening you will strip / unclip things apart and then put them together. there is a chance that a part or two will not be clipped back together as well as originally. then you will have less overall noice so the squeeks would be more audible However, I haven't noticed it on my car. Probably the plastic parts settle into their place after a day or two. The squeeks I was getting were from the mid console box cover and on hot days from the wheel drive dial plastic glass. I disassembled the mid console cover and put thin strips of the floor underlay in it and the squeeking is gone. The same can be done with the plastic glass but I left it as is. Absolutely no regrets about having done the sound deafening...

what tyres do you have? Are these 17 inch or smaller? Do you mostly drive on smooth roads - by this I don't mean roads with pots / no pots but what is the surface made of? If you have 18 inch or higher and the surface of the road is made of small stones and some binding material than you will experience high levels of road noise

I ordered the latter rims and 16 inch Kumho 215 / 60 Eco tyres and had them installed. Finally I don't feel every single hole, pot or stone under my wheels. While the car still vibrates a bit on coarse surfaces, this is more wave-like without the instant feedback through shaking / jerking that I got on 18 inch wheels. The noise is also different. I'd say it's less, especially in the low frequency band but I won't be able to measure by how much until it gets warmer as this is when I measured the noise pre-tyre change (when I was soundproofing the car during one of the summers). What is the most surprising is the amount of fuel efficiency I gained. It seems that the car uses about 0.5l-0.7h l/100km less than before. If that continues then the tyres will be self financing after 3-4 years vs the 235 / 60 / 18 I had before

thanks I have ODB11 and watched a video how to do it. Easy enough. I got AGM from Platinum, will install it and code it tomorrow.

Should I replace my battery with an AGM battery? I see non-AGM ones at 100 euro plus and AGM ones at double the price. Are AGMs dedicated for start stop?

BTW is this a single battery or two different battery packs - one for start-stop and one to start the car

good question - I usually do in in December so this would speak for it be checked closed to the most extreme conditions it is used. The car usually stays overnight the nigth before just outside the fence surrounding the dealer's place from which they pick it up. So there would be no drive preceding it. I cant comment on whether they keep it inside the garage, where it's warmer than outside, before starting the check.

Hi, My car has displayed multiple low battery voltage warnings over this winter yet it always starts on the first try. I just had it serviced a month ago - the battery was tested and found to be fine. This is similar to previous years, also warnings on cold days yet no issues and the battery always passed the service check. The car is 7 years old now and according to my knowledge is on its original battery, but then it was 2 years old when I got it. Is it time to replace the battery? Can I check the voltage of the battery using ODB11 Scanner which I have? Note - I always turn the start stop function off and I live in Ireland where the climate isn't the harshest

many thanks, mine is a 1.6tdi hence not running into an issue here

that's very useful to know. Quick question - I won't need to do anything to my brakes if I get the 16 inch rims, is this correct?

would you know what tyres you went from / to by width / aspect ratio /? (e.g. 245/45/R18 to XXX/XX/R16) BTW all 16 alloys I see are very ugly. did you move to steel rims?

could I just leave my 18 inch rims and go for 245 / 60 instead of 245/45? Would this make the ride softer? I am less concerned about road noise as alread soundproofed the car. Does the width of the tyre affect the ride comfort if aspec is kept at 60 on, e.g. 225 vs 245 tyres?

thanks thanks, as for the road noise I sound proofed my car myself and now it's really good. It might be worth spending a day or too doing it and a few hundred euros to get the effect, was really worth it. but yes on 18 inches without sound insulation on coarse irish roads the car was unbearably loud is it possible that you L&K has active suspension? Which would much better than what standard Superbs have? I agree on the much worse look