lukk

could I just leave my 18 inch rims and go for 245 / 60 instead of 245/45? Would this make the ride softer? I am less concerned about road noise as alread soundproofed the car. Does the width of the tyre affect the ride comfort if aspec is kept at 60 on, e.g. 225 vs 245 tyres?

thanks thanks, as for the road noise I sound proofed my car myself and now it's really good. It might be worth spending a day or too doing it and a few hundred euros to get the effect, was really worth it. but yes on 18 inches without sound insulation on coarse irish roads the car was unbearably loud is it possible that you L&K has active suspension? Which would much better than what standard Superbs have? I agree on the much worse look

Hi , I am considering changing the alloys and tyres on my Superb MK3 in order to get a smoother softer ride I am considering going to 17" or 16" from my current 18". Has anyone done it and could let know how visibly the ride comfort was increased? I have 18" 235-45 Goodyear tyres - what tyre height should I aim for? (that's the second bit in "235-45"). I presume the width of 235 should be preserved?

The floor and boot in my case made the most difference but I drive on coarse stretches. You noise measurement is similar to mine when I get on nice smooth surface

I've done only the front ones so far. Did you have a chance to test / measure the improvement once the back doors were also done? Wondering if worth doing it especially that I don't have any butyl left...

More Like the side panels along the chassis next to the outer drivers / passengers legs

To those who already did the floor in their cars - how did you close the plastic side panels? the clips are simply too short so mine are kind of open. any place to buy longer metal clips?

I did the front doors some time ago and I was happy with the difference. My recommendations would be: get a small stool ready or something to support the door card when you are taking off, putting back while you are disconnecting the cables. or just trying to fix somethign without disconnecting all the cables you are likely to break a grommit or two. then ones I ordered from Amazon were too loose and did not fit properly I put rolls of laminate carpet underlay at the bottom. My mistake was covering the back of the speaker and putting too many of them so that the window did not open. This mean reopening the door. But even with fewer carpet underlay rolls it makes a nice difference. You can find pics of this back in the thread. I struggled tightening back with the screw in the middle of the door card. I think it flipped (the nut) or something along these lines As mentioned by Steviedakota take multiple pics of the cable connections. They are actually hard to confuse once you do it but it still helps the first tie round. Do count them when disconnecting and reconnecting! I have still not completely closed the drivers card door. there is an angle at which you have to put it back and if you dont the top corner next to the bonnet wont catch with the metal part of the door. It's nothing but esthetics though, the door functions just fine.

I agree it makes a difference. How did you melt the cap, did you use a heat gun?

Hey Gabriel, So are you saying there was noticeable improvement or that you couldn't 100% measure it because the road was so good there would be no noise anyway? Would you be able to do the front only, without doing the doors yet, and test it on a rough tarmac before and after?

the rear bench (the thing you sit on) or rear seats (the thing you lean your back against)? I took out the first one, you pull up on both sides and it will click out, than you have to pull it towards you while pressing downwards. The first bit was super easy, the second one took me a lot of time, my couch didn't want to unhook. There are loads of videos on youtube. If you mean the rear seats then no clue hey I have more pics but the system doesnt allow me to post them. I'll try to pm you

I tried yesterday but I can't upload stuff more that 200kb (0.2mb) large for some reason. Anyway a low resolution picture is below. I simply laid the VML roll I still have on top of the usual boot cover. No visible improvement

Today I laid my remaining half of mass loaded vinyl on top of the boot cover to see if I can get much more soundproofing after laying butyl there Sadly no game changing improvement. I think I will put it next on the wheel arches covers to see what achieve there

I don't really experience any of this, as in there is some usual wind noise but nothing bad. Anyway it seems that you guys aren't the only ones suffering. There is even a dedicated thread to in on briskoda. For some guys it's small window seal issues causing it.

Interesting concept. At first I thought you were pranking us but it seems to be real, I checked some test on youtube and most are positive. The issue is that you can only do it yourself when about to change your tyres. I don't have the tools / patience to take tires of the rim myself nor do I know how to balance them. The method of taking them off in the video at 2min:40sec below might be a bit too much for me : In any case thanks for this, something about next time when the tyres need replacement

i just went for another drive and at 120km/h and I get roughly the same values as you. This is on a coarse stretch with the surface being the type you see in the picture I got in the internet i can confirm that there is no major increase in noise level between 110-140. Before I did the sound deadening of the floor there would be a major increase in noise depending on The speed. So 120 km/h was loud, 110 acceptable, 140 km/h way too loud. This must have been caused by vibrations which are largely eliminated now. If you experience the same absence of major noise increase as the speed increases it indicates you don't have have as much vibration issues on your roads. I also drove over the part of the motorway which I would describe As relatively smooth and then my db level falls to something like 67-68db. This means nearly nothing in terms of noise and vibrations coming through the floor, a tiny bit of tire noise through the doors, and of course wind and the motor hum. It’s a very nice noise level and combination. also attached is the oic of the carpet / laminate panel underlay I have

yes I've done it in the past but it works only on really long journeys when your wife and kids fall asleep and don't want to talk to you.

when putting back to upper B pillar panel you can check if the belt moves before you fully click it in. yes I think you'll need to repeat the measurement so that we can compare them. Digifish's car might have different tires than yours, perhaps different carpet or maybe his noise sensitivities are different. I am out of butyl but I still have more than half of my mass loaded vinyl. I will lay it out in the boot to see what it gives. Once I get butyl I was thinking of doing rear arches plus laying mass loaded vinyl on the plastic covers. I will report how it goes in due time. BTW my foam carpet / laminate panel underlay is much thicker than the picture from the internet I attached. I'll send a proper picture this week. this thing is super cheap for what it does.

this would correspond to what I am getting at 120 km/h on poor porous asphalt but after extensive soundproofing. I’d need to check at 140 km/h what I get at. I guess most Of your noise is also the wind and engine plus some tire noise. just to confirm you had the AC / ventilation and radio off? BTW I place my phone in a holder that is clipped to the front ventilation so what I register at my head level would be a bit different than what my phone pics. I am guessing that the doors would be your next thing to address. Put butyl there and stuff the bottom of the interior with something like rolled laminate closed cell underlay. Just make sure that you figure out how much space needs to be left so that the windows can be opened.

Hey I know I told you that the belt adjuster and the plastic panel adjusters must be at their highest level when putting things back together as this is what the manual said. But when I was putting one back 2 days ago it didnt work and I had to align them visually. Its a simple thing Ill send you a pic sometimes this week to show the bits that need to be aalignsd. In any case dont worry, it will take you 10min each

funny you' answer above is in Spanish but in my mailbox it's in English. I am guessing that doing the doors would help but realistically you will always hear some noise. It's not a Mercedes S class. Could you please let me know at what speeds you start hearing this? And any chance you could borrow your wives phone, install that app for half an hour and let know the noise level?

But can you hear an improvement? if you hear a new noise this would indicate that you managed to lower the overall noise volume so that your new noise isn't masked anymore by the old noise you eliminated

that 10pc difference is the console way more complex on the superb. took my a good few hours to take it apart without breaking anything but I guess I could do it in a fraction of time.

yeah, I've seen this. Some other links to superb https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClP2R0S4-SkFpIq4Rpu0q7w - an excellent channel where the guys shows everything step by step. he has a few skodas there but not the superb. The videos have Russian subtitles which can be autotranslated by youtube in real time to English. let know if you need help in turning the autotranslate on Шумоизоляция — Skoda Superb, 2.0 liter, 2017 year on DRIVE2 - article in Russian but you can use google translate Шумоизоляция автомобиля Skoda Superb в Москве | Anti-shum.ru - article in Russian but you can use google translate

looking at the picture below from the internet our Russian friends were able to take the carpet out without fully disassembling the console. They just took the rear part of the console out. They must have cut these two narrow strip of carpet and underlay that I mentioned and that go over the console.