lukk

I’m still tempted how much butyl did you use there?

My guess would be that doing the doors, the bonnet and perhaps the roof would help most against it as this is what the wind hits when you drive fast. i did the front doors and it’s a bit of a bitch to open the door card. Quite a few cables to disconnect and reconnect but can be done with some patience. My main issue here was unclipping small connectors which needed to be be pushed out using a tiny screw driver - you will need one. You will also need one of those metal levers for uncliping, number 10 wrench and a small star screw driver (I cant remember the size) + patience. You will also need to disconnect the minus on your car battery before You start working there. digifish has an excellent video showing how to do it so go yo you tube and search by this nickname. I would advise you to have a small stool next to you so that you can put the door card on it at its original height while it is unclipped from the metal door but still connected by the cables which you will be disconnecting. Once I did the doors with noice and also out some carpet underlay rolls inside the outside noise has been cut greatly. let Know if you have any questions but also do watch digifish’s video. do you have the workshop manual?

Digifish were you happy with the result of doing the rear wheel arches from the outside? There is a lot of resonance there. yeah applying the thing to the floor from the outside would be great. Please do report your findings

Yeah I think this is whay I read on the internet. Well I will either wait for my next servicing or have it done by a a friend’s friend who is a car Mechanic. Ir can I download the software, buy a cable and do it myself? Will the airbags work if the cables are connected but the warning light is on?

so today I completed my work on the floor. I laid Noico 2mm, carpet closed foam underlay as decoupler, and then MLV. This comes on top of the boot, the B Pilar and the two doors done a week or so ago. This was pretty challenging and I started on Friday with taking out the back couch and laying Noico there. This would have been very easy if it wasn't for the couch not wanting to slide out. I must have spent 30min trying to do what the workshop manual was telling me to do. Only once I applied my whole body weight the thing slid out from its sockets. Other than that it was the easy bit with just laying butyl Next I proceeded to disassembling the entire console in order to be able to remove the carpet and the underlay beneath it. Unfortunately these are installed in such a way that it's impossible to keep the carpet and underlay intact without taking apart at least some bits of the console. So I entirely disassembled it. I think I was also partially driven to doing this by seeing multiple pictures on the internet with the consoles out. Looking back this I think I would have rather cut the carpet and the underlay at the 1 or 2 narrow strip that go over the console to avoid the hassle. I believe such cuts wouldn't make a difference to the quality of fitting while would save me loads of time and allow to get the carpet out. Or perhaps I would not take the carpet out at all, I would just remove the seats and bend the carpet sideways to uncover as much floor as possible. While it would be inconvenient to work with it would probably do most of the job and save loads of time Anyway, the console was out, so was the carpet and the underlay. I laid Noico beginning from the rear bench (number 4 in the attached picture) and going towards the front of the car. Unfortunately I started running out of the material hence the very front (around number 3 in the picture), is covered only partially but still to a good degree. A school error on my side but I was trying to use large, uninterrupted pieces of butyl so somehow lost count of how much was left. I should have started from the front. and work my back towards the bench. Luckily there was already some sound proofing material laid there by Skoda and the very bit under the feet / the pedals has a thick rubber / foam mat. I also added smaller strips to the sides and top of the console and other minor panels along the chassis. I stuffed hollow spaces around the seats (number 1 in the picture) with carpet underlay and this did a great job of sound deadening them. this also is very cost efficient as a big roll of carpet underlay is probably 20 euro and it can be stuffed in many other cavities in the car. In the next step I put the decoupling layer using my carpet underlay. Unfortunately it doesn't bend as great as some of the dedicated materials I see on youtube but I think it did an overall good job. Finally I laid MLV sheets. The bit with the frame for the seat screws, I did not cover it so there is a break in MLV. I didn't glue MLV sheets together either. I saw people doing it with contact concrete to create impenetrable barrier but although I bought some glue with an intention of doing the same I started to run out of time and had to cut corners. I realised that since my MLV sheets overlap each other by quite a bit and because they are quite heavy and will be weighed down by a further layer of Skoda underlay + carpet there is no need to freak out about some potential gaps .So I taped the stuff together (the tape was really crap) and started reassembling the things. In the picture it is not finished yet and looks a bit crap but I tightened the fit later. After having done the boot, the B pillar and the front doors I arrived at 73db-74db at 120km/h on my test motorway with coarse surface. This was a big noticeable improvement over the original noise levels whose db number unfortunately I don't know. At73db-74db we already found the noise levels acceptable (but not excellent) at the test speed and surface while we were pretty happy at lower speeds or on better surfaces. A reminder I have 18inch wide tires which simply came with the car. Doing the floor and rear seat bench helped cut the level by around 3db on the test road and change the frequency of the noise to a much nicer, less intrusive one. 3db is quite a lot, I believe it could be approximated to around 30% cut in audible noise. Currently there is now markedly less vibrations coming from the bottom of the car and whatever comes is much, much easier on the ears. On other benchmark road parts with poor surface but lower speed limit the vibrations have stopped altogether while they were annoying before. Was it worth it? Yes, but perhaps doing the back arches would provide a similar gain with less work, this I won't know until I get there. There are a few lessons learnt. As pointed by Digifish covering the entire rear bench in butyl might not have been the most efficient thing as the couch is made of a very thick foam which absorbs most noise. And this is true - after covering the rear bench with Noico I drove the car with and without the couch on and the difference is enormous. So the couch itself is a great sound absorber and saving the butyl used on the bench and using it in the front might have worked out better. It would also save me a few hours of work I would avoid taking the entire console out, I'd rather make two small cuts in the underlay and the carpet to remove them. Or I would just fold them to the side and laid Noico on the floors but forego sound deadening the panels on the console. That's my work-benefit analysis. This was a large part of work so it could be a good trade off to get some less sound isolation but saving yourself a hassle. There was some collateral damage. I am getting an airbag error. I think this originates from me disconnecting some of the wiring directly under the seat before I figured out this is not the way to take the seats out. While I reconnected the thing possibly something went wrong, I will need to have a look at it again and I suspect I will unscrew the seat bolts to get good access to the bottom of the seat. I will also check the cable box under the carpet. I am also left with around 10 screws which obviously I forgot to put back in their rightful places. These most likely come from some obscure fittings. The console sits very well so I don't think these 10 leftover screws are a big problem. The floor side plastic panel doesn't sit perfectly at the very forward end. The additional thickness of Noico+carpet underlay+MLV shifted everything up so one or two metal clips don't hold as firmly as before. Finally, the rear couch clicks out after a bit. Most likely the extra layer of Noico is an issue. The D-shaped hooks are not long enough to click in properly into the plastic grommets (number 4 in the picture). I have put the child seat back so the couch is weighed down for now and clicked in. But longer term I might need to take the plastic grommets out, click them onto the metal hooks, and then put it all into the metal openings? So I guess the next thing for me is to address that airbag error and in foreseeable future doing the rear arches, the bonnet and maybe the rear doors. But due to my wives pregnancy it might be weeks or even months before I get there. I don't have any noico left anyway.

no the app is only available for iPhones as there are only a few types of them with standardized microphones so you can provide an accurate measuring. with android every phone is different so it's more difficult. there is a bosh sound measuring app called Bosh iNVH which is reported to be good but you would need to calibrate it on your phone. I downloaded it quickly on my sisters phone and it was providing different readings than my iPhone app. anyway I believe a lot of people on this forum are suffering from low frequency humming noise caused vibrations of the metal panels due to poor or coarse road surface. so if you are in Spain you are probably driving on smooth, concrete roads and I believe you might suffering from wind noise, would this make sense? How would you describe the noise that you would like to eliminate? the roads in Ireland / UK are made of small stones joined by some sort of asphalt. These roads are not smooth and this causes car panel vibrations, especially on larger size tires which have less rubber to amortize vibrations. Additionally there is road noise caused when the tires touch the road and compress and decompress air bubbles captured in the pockets on the road.

I cannot put my rear bench back. As in the D wire hooks clip out after a moment or so even if I seat on the bench. I added 2mm butyl there so perhaps this is the cause. I was thinking of taking these two grommets out (the one you have in the video), at least partially and put the hooks in them while they are out, and then put all of the thing back . have you ever done it and what is the best method to take them out?. They seem stuck there pretty firmly there

gabriel you are in spain, correct? from memory the roads are very smooth there, unlike what some of us have. what kind of noise do you register? any chance you have an iPhone and could download the NIOSH SLM app and tell what kind of noise level you hear at 120km/h?

don't forget the b pillar. While you will need to open one plug, unscrew one screw, and pull out two small panels it will be a much quicker job than the boot and the effect is well worth it. if you'd prefer for someone to do it for you but the high costs in Denmark are an issue perhaps it's time for a holiday in Poland? 6h if google maps is to be trusted

That’s the holes I mean, on the vertical side where I haven't put butyl yet

that's a very good idea, ordered one. will report what I see when I get it, which could be anywhere between 2 weeks and 3 months as this is aliexpress

Yes the blanket is there. Still the sits, especially the vertical part near the legs, are very resonant. as for the holes I was referring to the round holes with no obvious purpose. there are no clips going through them so I cannot figure 100% out there purpose. These could be to provide some sort of access or to the other layer of the car or ventilation? but most likely there are there to reduce weight. There are such holes throughout the chassis and this was the most like explanation I found on the internet - weight reduction I have disassembled the centre console now and I am waiting for my triple square bits to take the sits out. The central console took me a good few hours, mostly due to lack of exactly knowing how to proceed, also workshop manual isn't always clear enough, at least not for a layman. Anyway I got there without breaking things. I am able to lift the carpet under the front passenger / driver legs and it's shocking how resonant some parts of the floor are, especially those closest to the engine. They are covered by some sort of a rubber matt but I guess noico will help, then I'll lay my carpet underlay and MLV. BTW the improvement in noise after doing the boot, b pillars and doors is actually large. My wife and I finally don't find the car annoyingly loud, we can hear our conversations and other noises in the car with clarity. It was defo worth the effort. After doing the floor I'll see if I can still hear too much low hum from the road and tyres. If that is the case I'll do back wheel arches from the outside but for this I'll need to order more noice

hey gabriel yes you should have stuck some noico on the metal parts, especially on the ouside of the metal outside. While it's good you put some on the plastic part from the inside it's the metal that is the main source of vibrations. You seat regulator most likely doesn't move because you haven't aligned it whet re-assembling. When putting the cover back you need to make sure that your seat belt is set to it's highest position. Therefore open the thing again / take out the panels, and first check if you can change the seat belt height now. Most likely you can and if this is the case you only need to align the things for it to work properly And add noico to the metal. please see what I did. I am using close foam carpet underlay (4mm) to stuff things. I put everywhere I could withouth preventing the belt to work properly. BTW you can't put too much stuff inside the plastic panel as it will start rubbing against the seat please see my pics below. The first one shows the carpet underlay before it is properly stuck inside. Put as much stuff as you can but keep separate from the belt mechanism. the B panels made a big difference in audible noise coming from the around my head.

trying to avoid spending those 70 quid for a single one off job. trying to borrow one of someone, so far no luck

Yeah it’s my third stage now after doing the boot and the doors. anyway I just started to working under the rear seats without taking the front seats out. The stuff kids leave underneath… Also what should I do with those few openings I see in the metal sheets. e.g. under the seats. I see no obvious purpose for them but they there. With the antivibration tiles I can just leave them open but will be laying the MLV now and my understanding is I should aim to close any opening as the airborne sound will get through them. any one have an idea?

would anyone know if the car is still drivable if I take apart to console? So the panel with the door lock / start-stop button etc would be disconnected. Asking as just received my mass loaded vinyl so could start taking the things apart on one day and lay it on another, reassemble on a different day if needed. I have a heavily pregnant wife and kids to shuffle so might not be able to commit doing it all in one day but still need the car.

that's a good idea. just thinking about it perhaps I can just put a solid enough plastic bag into that think and spray the foam into it

thanks I thought about this option but temporarily sticking butyl on the outside of the car makes no sense but to check if the resonance goes away. Which we know it will. As for the engine I would disagree, it pulls well enough and it's not loud at all. Majority of my remaining resonance comes from the tires and the floor. Now that I have sound deaden the front doors, the B pillar and the boot I can very clearly hear this. I have size 18 wide tires and they are just not a good idea in this car on coarse roads. I will do the floor with butyl and mass loaded vinyl, just waiting for the materials. But I guess those C pillar cavities do cause some noise at the back so why not do something about it.

it will most likely reveal holes for the trip clips only. I did pull it off btw when sound deadening the boot and the spaces on the sides.

You lost me here a bit. So a) you are saying you don't think this will generate any audible noise - this I won't know until I dampen it somehow b) that the channel behind this panel is connected to the cabin ventilators behind the bumper. do you mean a rear bumper? is the channel then open from both sides? because if it;s open from one side only then I don't think it would play any role in the ventilation provided you seal it of from the close-end side

haha for those who have never knocked on it from the outside, yes it is very, very resonant. Anyway do you know if there is anything inside or is it safe to spray the expanding foam in there? Just thinking that maybe it's a good idea to take out the trim from there just in case the clips are in the same channel...

would anyone have a clue what is inside the cavity behind this small hole under the tail gate? The hole is covered by a small rubber plug. I am working on sound deadening my car and this is a very resonant panel. Is it a good idea to spray self-expanding foam there to limit the sound and vibrations travelling? Is any water drained through it? I don't see any cables inside but would need to know that for sure.

this noise measuring app by Bosh for android seems to be good. You might still need to calibrate it and sense check it. I think you can sense check it by going into a very silent room and see vs the reference value for what it shoudl be https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bosch.nvh_analysis&showAllReviews=true

I've never used such foam. What does it feel like once it cures? is it spongy or does it harden?

what are the apps names? yeah there are many rubbish ones out there so its disappointing that Niosh app is only on iOS