Former

You buy on condition and inspection, road test perhaps, knowledge obtained from places like Briskoda where owners have owned the model and actually used it, in and out of warranty if the model is older enough. You can say which engine it has and find out if any engine have particular flaws, same for gearbox, suspension etc.. Of course you do need to be a lot more specific with details, if you put the actual car up and who's selling it where sometimes members might even know the car or actually looked at it for sale now or before. Most on here (not me, I'm the opposite, why people buy modern VWs is almost beyond me) will perhaps be biased towards the good elements of the car and marque but there are so many threads and posts here to also find the issues. As I put if you have the VIN some even have access to look up details including perhaps service history. One thing to note is that last year VW UK finally fell in line with VW in the rest of Europe (the world) and admitted the rubber cambelts didn't need changing at 50K-miles/5yrs (to late for me and others). I'd want to plug in a scan tool and see what error codes have been left or are on the vehicle but I expected you might have to do that out of sight of the sales people, it'd be part of any inspection check on a modern car, I'd work them into any negotiations, if negotiations are still available now. To know how good any car is as an example of that model you'd probably need to drive a few others, preferably same engine, gearbox, suspension, age/mileage. Cinch style buying seem simple poke and hope buying which suits many - but you only have a short time to bounce it back if you've made a mistake.

It may be a computer issue, caused by something else or by the battery having got too low. When you get to the start/stop not activating when it normally should that often is the first sign that the battery is low. At that stage just driving the car may be enough to fully recover it (to whatever level is possible) by the time you're into warning lights and messages the battery could be so low it needs the use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer to recharge the battery as much as is possible. When there is any difficulty getting the engine started then the battery probably will never be fully recharged. If a connection is loose or dirty then tightening and cleaning with make all the difference but the battery will still probably need the use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer to recharge it. If it's none of the above then a scan tool is needed to see if it might be something like a faulty sensor, or the wiring or connection(s) to or from it. Only recently someone put they used a scan tool and got error messages but the actual cause was a dirty battery connection, he had gone about checks a*se-about-face sexy scan tool before basic checks. Good luck.

If you have the charm, good looks and brass neck just go into a Skoda Dealership with the reg number and ask them to please print off a "complete record". But then it might not tell you much as it only really lists services and "maintenance work" that has been listed on the computer system, it may exclude some services either done elsewhere or not done at all. A "service" now is little more than an annual (or less) change of engine oil and filter and a look see for other chargeable work, it doesn't really cover the engine let alone the the whole car. If you want a Superb have a look at the relevant Superb forum and ask if anyone has access to such records (as some do with other model(s)). If Cinch have priced for no service history and this id truly reflected in the asking price then if you get the service history you have benefited on the price - but, without any service history you have to accept that the car might not have ever ben serviced or very little absolute warranty minimal so buyer beware.

Check the state of charge of your battery, check the main battery and main earth connections are are tight and clean.

Sorry no idea of the part but it might be one of those parts you can only get from scrapyard / recycling / eBay so take care, others will know better than me. I think you are better trying to find the source of the leak than putting any stop leaks type stuff in, that more for general leaks on used/abused stuff just to keep it going rather than a cure. Not leaking for a day or two doesn't mean that much as it may be just that it takes that long to be noticeable. A teaspoon of oil on the ground can look like a lake but it would not be a noticeable loss on the dipstick or in the gearbox. With the car parked up gravity usually applies so a small leak from higher up the engine will drop at the bottom of the engine, often at the lowest point which often is the drain plug which mays some think the drain plugs is leak when it's not, though if old or incorrect washers are used at the drain plug this is possible but usually easily noticeable. You could also check at the engine oil filter or lots of other places, anything with a joint and or clip. How often is your engine oil and filter changed, when was it last done, have you noticed the leak since then or before?

Hi, welcome. On my PC there is no sound to that video. Have the engine idling, trying turning off the infotainment (well as much as possibly, or mute), turn off air-con, turn off the heater blower, turn off everything and check the noise is not from the engine bay - then try turning items on individually with only one item on at any time with the engine running. If that does not highlight anything try the same procedure without the engine running. Others may be able to hear the audio I cannot but for future even though you want audio it is best do do the video in landscape (turn the phone on its side) as this way there is more information in the frame, others can perhaps see something that might be relevant, I understand you might need to have the phone close to the dash but if you can have the image zoomed out as much a possible. Good luck.

You have posted in the Fabia Mk3 forum (2014-21) you want the Mk4 forum, I'll ask a moderator if they could move this thread to that forum. In the meantime you could have a look in the Mk4 forum at the topics and posts. I personally recommend you get an appropriate (12v) battery charger for whatever modern car you get with start/stop particularly. Skoda Fabia Mk IV (2021 > ) - Discussion for the new Mk 4 Skoda Fabia from 2021 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/402-skoda-fabia-mk-iv-2021/

Once I'd found the source of the actual leak if I was keeping the car I would get the gearbox oil hot and drain or syphon out as much as possible and replace with fresh new good quality gear oil, it won't stop the gear problem probably but it could help, and help the gearbox generally. To find the oil leak you could wipe clean and dry all underneath and in engine bay then run the car to full temperature, cooling fan cutting in and then look again for the leaking oil tracking down, or throw on something dry that will highlight the wet or damp areas. Or you can buy and add engine oil leak detection dye and look for the glow, you could even add a few drops in the gearbox. Just one as an example only. - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RLD4 ETA: you can buy kits with the dye, torch and glasses, I always try to let the chemicals do the hard work (like a good penetrating/releasing fluid) plus now you've learnt to have time and patience in your tool box too, two things many professionals often don't have available, or keep in stock for some.

But as my elderly neighbour used to say, better living with some problems than the alternative. and when you see what some people have had to put up with everyday of their life you can be happy about being able to change a wheel (with or without alignment tools).

I forgot that, but we went through some fixes for that, pity you couldn't use some (or all) of the internals from the old in the crap new one but I suppose there are too many minor differences, I expect you were looking to see if the burnt out bits could be swapped. But such are the joys in today's life.

You sound like a Precious McKenzie to me, I've got arms and legs like bits of string now and lifting my body from the ground is an achievement sometimes, lifting a wheel takes a lot more effort now, even a 15" (or a 13" x 4.5" as I used to have until a couple of years ago). 😄

There were no measurements that I noticed from before this was fitted as a comparator. Interesting that the inlet scoop was partly covered from direct line of air by the the body rail, disturbed air might be better or worse. What will you do about the cold air in winter.

I've never heard of DR-60 let alone used it but I have used GT85 and PlusGas off and on going back to the 1980s and 1990s. PlusGas doesn't seem as good as when it was British made but perhaps that's rose-tinted glasses and the fact that GT85 returned and seems to be a very good penetrating releasing fluid. Rapideeze used to the one I used and was great but they went during IIRC the 1990s hence my looking for a replacement as a penetrating/releasing fluid. Careful with knurled knob and use of pliers you don't want to strip the knurling, I was thinking of some small waterpump / pipe fittings / box joint / "Groove Slip Joint" type pliers barely open so that you don't over-grip them on the knurled part. This type of thing only as an example. -

Obviously it's only images on a screen and the factory motor is 25 years old and some use but that looks like it might be able to be repaired and cleaned and lubricate for more life, as you have found before cleaning and fresh new lubrication can help even working parts (it's why you change you engine oil and filter every year at least). Would have been interesting to compare the internals of that modern crap one.

DerekU those alignment tools look a lot better than either of the ones I have. I was doing the wheel rotation on my concrete hard(luck)standing "drive", cold autumn in between cold showers/rain and like an idiot because I'd got three done I thought I'd get the last one done before it got dark to save doing it the next day. I'd only jacked the car up enough for the tyre to clear the ground by about an inch but I could easily see the alignment of the five holes (why 5, it's not a lorry or commercial) and was balancing the tyre on my shoe toe caps and the near non-existent centre ring and was reaching for a wheel bolt when the wheel slipped off and like a total idiot I moved to stop the wheel falling on its face and perhaps scratching, instead buggering my back to this day. My own stupid fault for being macho instead of sensible. IiRC the ET was clearly marked on the inside of the wheel or I'd not have noticed it, but I could be wrong. I hope you've got the conversion wrong as 52kg is only 8 stones 3 pounds.

What are you on about I've already put I'm over 60, I'm 64 and have suffered from many in the motor trade including mechanics, I know mechanics around my age so time served from 1960s and 1970s. I was just about to add to my previous post, I'd already put twice that the lip isn't big and that I got a bloody injury from the stupid wheel slipping 1" (25mm) to the ground I've had the injury from that for about 6 years, stupid half a second slip, from bloody wheel bolts instead of studs. Are you now or have you ever been a mechanic?

@Chug41 have a look at one of your wheels on the inside IIRC the details are on it for offset, or IIRC they are on my wife's 2015 Fabia.

Correct I'm not. Maybe you're think of having a lift available. Hold up, I've just had a realisation, perhaps - are you now or have you ever been a mechanic?

Alright I'll play along, when do you put the screwdriver into the hole, it'd have to have a small handle to slide a M14 hole over it and if you put the wheel up first and then the screwdriver you might as well use a bolt. But whatever works for you great, each to their own. I'm 64 so possibly older that you, possibly not. Perhaps Octavias are different to Fabias, holding the wheel up is fine until it slips, a gob of manly macho split won't hold the wheel to hub and the centre ring is only a bout a millimetre or deep (I've never measured with manly macho callipers or anything else to confirm this). Your procedure was the one I was using until the (insert expletive) wheel slipped 1" (25mm) to the ground as I was about to put the sixteenth wheel bolt which of course was the first on that wheel. Again you do it whatever way you want. I can assure all I don't want to fart about any number of alignment tools or ANY wheel bolts.

Thanks for that but personally I don't care as for four plus decades all my cars, real Skodas, British/English and Japanese made and all the European (current one only as VW product) and Japanese cars that my wife has had in that time have all had studs and nuts (four each wheel not five) and those studs and nuts have caused me no problems or injuries. The (add in expletive of your choice, or not) VW product my wife currently has with its bolts, instead of studs, caused me 6 years, so far, of ongoing back problems by the wheel slipping off the centre (hub) and falling 1" (25mm) to the ground, so if anyone suggests to my face that the bolts are a good idea I will disagree from my experience and the fact you need to use an alignment tool (TWO really) and if it's while my back is playing up they'll hear a wide range of expletives.

The first alignment tool I got was a gift from a friend (more later why it was bought for me) with using it I discovered two are needed on on wheel really for them to work well (four if swapping round wheels), the second one I bought myself and it was a poorer and rougher finish. So different prices and different finishes the rough one I got could scratch the wheel bolt hole for those that worry about such things.

You've posted in the wrong forum, this for the site generally, you would be better looking or posting in the 'Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )' forum (or a similar model forum). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/225-skoda-rapid-spaceback-2012/ HTH.

Hi, welcome. Ben. You've posted on the wrong forum this is for generally site forum help or instruction, you want the relevant Fabia section, you also help by giving more info about your model see my name plate below and often which infotainment you have but in this case you see thread(s) and posts on your question in the 'Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/

Have tried going from above and below and using tools with long handles, for leverage, to rock the cable fitting side-to-side and levering it out from as many angles of the circumference as possible, if not try that next time, Sod's Law it either pop out at first touch or a fraction just before you're about to give up for good.

Up to you, it's your car, you'll get the benefit or consequences. If the fitting is at the top you won't loose much oil (more than you might have already lost) on a short drive. What comes out of the fitting (speedo drive?) will it get damaged if it jumps out on a short drive(?), If you want to try it you can let us know what happens. Personally on such hot days I'd leave it until tomorrow night when it's cooler and the 1/4 can of proper penetrating fluid has had plenty of time to soak in (did this stuff have the invasive American WD-40 Company logo at the bottom of the label on the back if not blazed on the front). Let us know how you get on.