Former

True but activity on the thread might highlight it to others with the issue, perhaps it's a batch fault or programming issue to certain cars of a certain age or perhaps Headphone's car "is the only", "no one else has this problem, just you". 😉

Sorry my bad memory I thought it was 25% or 35%. All else fails you can take the cap off and look inside.

Isn't that to do with the dilution ratio you chose. As I remember it G12 is pink but men often have some level of colour blindness. I think you've had enough of mixing liquids in your coolant. 😉 😆 Put something behind the the tank to give more contrast, hand, glove, sleeve, hat, scarf, tool roll, shadow, sunlight, whatever works.

Hi, welcome. Surely a miss-fuel would be where either you had put the wrong fuel in the car (I done that once) or the pump had the wrong fuel delivered from it and yours was the one and only or one of very few vehicles to do so before that pump(s) and any others were shut down otherwise it'd surely be local news, I can't imagine too many keeping quiet if they thought Tesco or Sainsburys were selling duff fuel (more likely a load of duff old cars and their owners rushing to fuel there). If you know anyone with an appropriate level scan tool also appropriate to your model and year car and they keep the program for your car and model up to date you/they could plug it in and get a full report and see what else it might show as often many are too lazy to clear everything. Briskoda members that offer their scan tools, some for beer tokens, a few professionally, you could see if there are any that are close and have the program for your model and year. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Later as another subject it'd be interesting to know about which previous new Fabias you had and how you found they compare to each other.

Part or all of this might be down to you cleaning the cooling/heating system.

Short answer from me, no you can't.

A few days, perhaps internment then or poor connection or wire then, I assume the airbag light works and you have checked it and its connections. You also show a footwell light(?) error code has that been dealt with. Other is the scan tool you are using suitable for your VW make and year and is its program for your make and model fully up to date otherwise you can sometimes get errors in its reporting, other than that sorry I don't know. You could also try asking on Diagnostics & VCDS - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Good luck.

Driving my neighbour's Ren-No! Cashcow on a NSL bit of road we go on every week and it's 30 mph signage is flashing on and off as it thinks I'm speeding, coming back in the other direction it must see the NSL sign as there's not flashing dash symbol - either that or it's a 30 mph road going in one direction and NSL in the other lane from the other direction, after all the computer knows best and it doesn't lie, that's why some used to follow the Tw*tNav and drive into a river. 😆

True, also some prefer them. In 2005 my neighbour got a little runabout (Kia Picanto) car bought for him to replace his 24 year old Ford Capri 2.0S that his dad bought brand new, his dad at 71 wanted alloy wheels on the new car despite it being no more than a run-around shopping-trolley and him never being a fast or confident driver. That had rear disks as part of the model spec. Off topic warning I had the 1981 Capri and run it for a couple of years, it wasn't perfect but was the "classic" I spent the least on to keep it going well and it went on to a Capri enthusiast as the car was so original and relatively low mileage (less the 100k-miles when I got it at 24 years) it was used as an everyday car parked on the street and he turned into a show car which I saw at our club's annual shows and a few NECs. The car AFAIK is still on the road now with another 100k-miles on it (MoT'd at the last required in 2021 at 40 years old and current "road rax") . I would have bought the 2005 Kia Picanto as it's better to drive and more fun than the other cars I drive (2023 Ren-No! Cashcow (9k-miles on it), 2016 Vauxhall Corsa (8k-miles on it) and 2015 Fabia (65k-miles on it), but his son took it back and it sits rusting in his garage waiting to see if his Micra runabout passes the next MoT. For those interested a 2017 (Adrian Flux Insurance) vid of the Capri. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtOOE94aAEQ

Will the error codes not delete?

I think there are waits on Dealership workshops generally. I wonder how long before cars are practically a write-off when out of warranty because sensors and computer programs can't be sorted. I think the phrase "cheap as chips" is from the quality of the chips that some/many car manufacturers use, probably worth more as antiques.

Depends on your needs and wants, for this issue perhaps a temporary pressure gauge might be useful, a temperature gauge less useful. Neither is needed and the car has survived decades without either. An oil temperature gauge I think is useful on modern (and old) cars if the cars do lots of short very journeys as it might show the owner/driver that the oil doesn't get fully warmed by those very short journeys which isn't good for the oil that helps look after the engine.

Arh, the benefits of driver aids and safety measures. 😁 No wonder those little delivery robots are going up. down, round and across all terrains of the pavements and roads trying to learn more for the vehicles (and military) of the future. My wife's 2015 Mk3 has only played up twice, once it said it couldn't activate but was fine on next journey after turning the car and its computer programs "off 'n' on agen", I suggested that it might just have been a leaf on the front of the rad grille. Then went my wife was following slow traffic through town panic braking by the car for no reason but my wife saw a plastic bag blowing in the breeze. Other times it just acting like the most cautious and nervous driver and not reading the traffic in front of it. Of course they've improved these systems by 2024. 😆 Thank gawd her car doesn't have lane "assist" or electronic handbrake with "Hold Assist", automatic lights and automatic wipers that really are eccentric. Heard the one about the Tesla stopping because of a bridge shadow cast on the road, I'm sure it's not true as Elon wouldn't let such things pass by testing.

As the 1.2 TSI has been mentioned the following is from the Owner's Manual (front title cover in error shows "Operating Instructions") for my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, it normally shows about 93=96c when we've checked and on a couple of blow-out runs I done I've seen IIRC about 102-4c but I was going at a lot higher speed that usual.

No, petrol treatment, there's a range but would guess this one. - https://redexadditives.com/products/petrol-system-cleaner/ Or this one perhaps for MoT. - https://www.redexadditives.com/products/redex-petrol-pre-mot/

Do so as plugs are so often missed and can also look fine and still be working but be beyond their best and well beyond their optimum and normally they are relatively inexpensive. Watch out for cheap counterfeits buy from a good reliable source. Personally I favour NGK and never favour too much on a car with a Bosch label. ETA: new good sparkplugs gapped correctly can make sometimes make a surprising difference to how the engine runs and power and fuel economy, not talking miracles but good value for cost and effort (n older cars).

Yeap I take your point but for those that want to much better oils are available today over a wider selection. I don't think R_Blue's car would ever need an oil cooler if it was in the UK. I might be tempted to say for such cars and their VW engines VW might need to put on oil coolers to cover car and engine mistakes and compromises but of course I'd never suggest such. Did I ever mention Škoda quality went down when VW first took them over. 😁 ETA: I find I can remember the keyboard shortcut for Š, must have sunk into my shrivelled brain subliminally .

It's not been confirmed that there is an issue with oil pressure but an oil pressure gauge might well help to confirm or refute plus the gauge will show pressure at different points and circumstances so that if there is an issue it can be seen when this starts, continues and stops and in relation to other gauges' readings and the driving circumstances to the engine at those times. An oil temperature gauge is useful to confirm when the oil has fully warmed up or possibly if it's getting too warm/hot but the coolant gauge seems to be doing a reasonable/good job already, an engine can run with cold or hot oil but not so well without pressure. An oil pressure gauge will probably show dramatic oil loss (say from an oil pipe off or cut or whatever) more instantly that the oil temperature gauge. The standard old British sportscars had oil pressure gauges rather than oil temperature gauges, when I had one with an oil temperature it just gave me more to worry about when driving the car in winter and driving circumstances precluded the car in a way to warm the oil quicker. If you put a pressure gauge in your car it would perhaps give you a little more info into the various engine oils - but also more to worry about.

Sorry, I normally check that links work before posting but not if it involves downloading any Apps or programs, I've already got far too many Microsh1t "Apps" and programs I don't want and will never use so I loathe to add more. Contact Skoda UK and ask them (to do what they should do anyway).

I forgot to put your car seemed to go very well up that climb at those speeds and temperatures, if you were only showing 84c, or around that, coolant temperature then perhaps you might be better served at the moment (and future) with an oil pressure gauge than oil temperature gauge, at least for now if only a temporary installation.

I wouldn't rely too much on not being too many differences but I found there a link for '2024 Skoda Kamiq Owner’s Manual'. - https://manual-directory.com/manual/2024-skoda-kamiq-owners-manual/ However Skoda UK should help you out with this as it is a duty of theirs to provide accessibility where they can and they certainly could with this. Great idea to read the Owners Manual before you get the car, better still read it when considering the car before buying it if you can.

I just remembered something I forgot to put before. Some buy s/hand wheels (sometimes with tyres) from places like this site's 'Marketplace' section, eBay or other sites and sellers. Or try for a swap with someone that wants smaller (or bigger) set of wheels (and tyres) in the 'Marketplace' or elsewhere. Or perhaps even post in 'Marketplace' 'Items Wanted'. 'Wheels & Tyres For Sale' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/333-wheels-tyres-for-sale/ 'Swap Zone' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/272-swap-zone/ 'Items Wanted' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/404-items-wanted/

From 2019 Owners Manual - "Central locking system The system unlocks and locks all doors, the fuel filler flap and the boot lid at the same time. Unlock indicator: double flashing of the indicator lights. Lock indicator: single flashing of the indicator lights. The warning light in the driver's door will flash for about 2 seconds in quick succession after the vehicle is locked, then it will start flashing regularly at longer intervals." Are you sure the boot, all doors and fuel cap are all locked after pressing the button? Have you checked to see if the warning light in the driver's door operates as above? - "Central locking fault The warning light in the driver's door first flashes for 2 secs in quick succession. Then it lights up continuously. After 30 secs, it flashes slowly." Might not do anything but as it's free, quick and easy have you tried synchronising the keyfob (see "Mechanically unlocking and locking the door" in Owner's Manual for more details - "Synchronize the key [fob] as follows. Press one of the buttons on the key [fob]. Unlock the door within 1 minute with the key [blade] via the locking cylinder"

In my experience of looking up and cross referencing oil filters amalgamation of databases for various car models and applying supersedes the end databases have errors so because as what they sometimes say will, or perhaps will not, fit or be suitable, or perhaps be unsuitable, can be wrong. Also they sometimes list a part that will only fit specific models in a range without making that clear or at all.

That would be my point, the car is static and not going along the road, though of course heavy load on the engine would warm things. I did notice the the needle of the water gauge rise and was lower at end so assumed the electric fan(s) had cut in, I'd hope that R_Blue's oil didn't get to 140C given his water temp readings but I don't know the car, engine, weather and climbs. I also wondered about the pickup position and placement, how well the thermistor is embedded and insulated in the sandwich plate as the exhaust looked fairly close to it and filter but perhaps it isn't and there's cooling air that gets there. My wife's 2015 1.2 TSI usually shows [ETA; oil temperature* of ] 96c, summer or winter, I have had it in treble digits when I gave the car a couple of blow-out runs for a few miles on reasonably mild day and cold night weather (above freezing though) this was with no passengers or luggage or rubbish (well nothing that weighed anything) in the car, flat road, constant speed. * ETA: biased gauge needle for coolant remains at rocky steady 90c as far as I've noticed