Murdockman

This can be a diy job but for a few things you do not need a ball joint splitter but if yu have one you can use it, the suspension arm can be levered down with a bar keep pressure on the bar then tap both sides of the ball joint casing and it will realese keep pressing down until joint is out of the arm to realease the ball joint but here comes the difficult bit some models have the ball joint riveted onto the arm others have bolts so you can remove the rivets but takes a bit of time with a grinder personally i found it easier to remove the whole arm and do it off the car (riveted ones) but no need to do this with the bolted on ones, some people have bought a new joint then took the rubber off the new one and fitted it to the joint in place but myself would not recommend this action ,the tracking will need checking after changing this joint

Before you take door cards off to re-seal the panel try looking at the bottom of the doors there are 2 slight bump like gaps that allow water out from the door, if these are blocked this can cause this problem, they usually block up with dirt rust etc and you can free them out with a small piece of stiff wire and then a squirt of wd strawspray into the holes/slit

Another Skoda service shedule "lets make some money boys" if your car is over 3 year old get it done yourself use genuine parts but don't pay Skoda prices, quoted for our 2 year old Fabia mk3 1.0 TSI £356.00 that was 4 litres Castrol fully synth oil, oil filter and a pollen filter, bought the oil for £45, filter was £13.75 , and a pollen filter carbon type £38 a new sump plug and washer non genuine but the same £4.95 as they wanted £18 for one, checked the car over no need for brake fluid after 2 years unless you have stupid miles on the clock , this is not done in the shedule but they try and scam you into a air con service £170 plus but you can get this done / checked a lot cheaper if needed eles where, the air does use the new type gas so it is more expensive but most seem to charge you if you need gas or not

Had this sort of issue with my pold MK2 estate, before going to the expense of renewing the sensors £92 each I thought I would give it the old WD40 squirt I used an old towel under each semsor and sprayed into the small circle at the edge of the sensor did this and left it for an hour or so used the car and first time the falshing /and sound went off so thought looks like a bumper off job then a few days later it started working ok again, every few weeks I gave the sensors a little squirt of WD and everything worked ok but we now have a MK3

Put a search in on the bay for replacement skoda fabia wheel locking key take the photo you have and send him the photo on contact seller he will match your picture with the correct key it costs around 25 pounds can't remember the site/seller but did this with my mk2 which was lost when i bought the car and he matched it up no problem

This is not a Bosch problem, all pads are now resin based pads and in doing so this will happenen, in fairness these pads should be changed every 3 years no matter what thickness they are due to the material breaking down over a period of time,this you can usually see when checking on a service, I always replace pads every 2 years no matter what thickness is left on them we usually do around 10,000 miles a year to me this is a small price to pay knowing that you can drive and brake safely, you will probably find that Bosch will say the pads are covered by a 12 month 12000 mile warranty they might send some new ones but don't count on it

To much difference drive shafts gearbox engine mounts exhaust ECU unit 4 cyclinder won't work a 3 cylinder fuel pump etc then to top it all you will have to tell the insurance and they might not insure the car due to the modification

You can get a used one off the bay around £80-£90, My 2008 Fabia actuator was faulty and I bought a new one from a company called turo vanes that was £159 but they might have gone up a bit as itwas about 3 years ago the unit has worked no problem but we changed the car last year but have seen it still driving around

If you have a second bulb fitted mostly it's the same a H7 they did fit H4 bulbs but these were on cars without the flap The second H7 bulb comes on with high beam and the dipped should also come on but a strange one never seen them used with the flap system but who knows

I take it that yu have rear drums on this car? if so you need to do a bit of work on these, the drums have to be removed firstly check that the linings are dry if they look a dark colour you might have a slight leak in the wheel cylinders easy to check just lift the rubber at the edge of the cylinder and if you get a small amount of brake fluid out they need replacing always change both sides when you do, another favourite is the handbrake lever on the brake shoe not being free and sticks this entails taking te shoes off and checking the lever and how free it moves on the shoe, sometimes a tap on a hammer head with the lever fully out frees the lever but a small spot of copper grease on the rivet where the lever is attached can help it keep free, the last thing to check is the handbrake cable as sometimes these get sticky and cause this issue again you need to remove the shoes to check this, if it's not fee the best option is to replace the whole cable you might fee it up but it will come back and stick again it's a bit of a pain to change as you need to get right under the car to get the old one out mine took a good hard pull to remove it watch out for the rear clips that hold the cable to the control arm they can break and hard to get hold of new ones, pattern cbles are fine as genuine ones are expensive, brake shoe kits if you use bosch bonded ones they are much cheahe than the riveted shoes, have a look around some dealers do a brake shoe kit set with new cylinders shoes and springs at a discount price

Had this once before and it turned out to be a bit of rust/dirt stuck in the drive shaft ABS cut outs a quick clean with small soft brush and some WD40 solved the issue for me hope this helps

Ha many people think this what you need is a frosted glass festoon bulb don't know the specific number but you could probably get them from a motor factors the newer version are the capless bulbs push in or led conversion don't be tempted with led bulbs that shape they are to bright and not suitable to use as a number plate light, other than that they are ok as long as you use the lower wattage not the interior fatter bulbs

Could be a few issues here have seen the clips leaking the pump from the small hole thatr vents the pump or could be at the rear egr valve water pipes it's a pain but worth getting into it to check,have known the rad to weep as well but a friends car the head was porus and water was getting into the cylinders but at such a small rate you could not dectect it by looking even a pressure test came back ok but did get a chemical test which showed exhaust/combustion gases in the fluid and the head landed up having to be replaced, the pump hoses and radiator were all replaced before this was confirmed which as he said was a waste of money and should have gone for this first, just to add it only seemed to loose water after a good run not steady driving

Quitea common fault if you don't do anything it will get that you won't be able to open the door at all, really it needs a new door lock but on my MK2 rewar door I removed the rear panel got a car wash sponge and pushed it around the door lock ,I then more or less used a full can of WD40 and sprayed it from all angles waited a good hour then used a rag to geyt the soaked sponge out and mop up the WD40 that had run down the inside of the door, after putting the panel back on a few days later it started to work ok again, I just kept spraying inside the catch every few weeks and never had a problem again, it's worth a try failling that a new lock but it's a pain to change

Done it many times the esyst way unlike some say is to remove the battery on the nearside get a decent pair or the coated workgloves and you will find it a lot better, on the drivers side get a torx bit and remove the whole filter frame from the wing I mean und the bolts and remove them and push the frame to the side use a bit of string or zip tie and hold it out of the way untill you change the bulb ,a lot will say you don't need to do this but it is a lot easier