Former

You can remove the battery for charging if needed/wanted but it'd only be a slight gain on how long the battery charger takes to get the battery to full, still best to have a low amps long slow recharge. If it's an older battery and you can take the six caps off then do check the electrolyte ("water") level in each cell and id you can see of any plates look cover or bent, usually the end cell. If it's a completely sealed battery (some say they are when they're not) don't take any notice of the "magic eye" ball rely on the charger to tell you when it gets to full. For a 2020 Octavia, below from the 2020 Owner's Manual, reading the Owner's Manual and referring to it when required can save you a lot of time, hassle and money with visits to Dealers, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. ETA: link to VWSkoda Owner's Manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Whatever it is that senses and transmit the temperature, possibly "sender" (of the information but it also has to detect the temperature), if it's an electric anologue gauge I guess the sender-transmitter is also electric but you might tell me differently. Unless I misunderstood Thefeliciahacker put the factory ones are not sensors (or called sensors?).

In the video some good points, some points that might be disputed and not enough information to gather how accurate the comparisons were., we are not told if the various coolants were claimed to be the same. VW (stand up and salute) own labelled G12evo coolants in my experience at least are available at two different freezing point levels, have different VW parts numbers so are different and therefore should give different results to each in those test but both are VW own label G12eveo so it depends which one (r both) you put into those comparisons. Depending on how the coolants are manufactured and by who actually there might even possibly be small variances in batches (but I don't know that for sure or at all). As always there are compromises and more to it than those simple tests, basically you don't need worry about -25c but do want your car to warm up to operating temperature as quickly as reasonably possible and not too much over for too long.

On older models there a clip thing (forget the proper name) on the negative terminal of the battery terminal clamp connection which you can disconnect (unplug) and that's the start/stop system disconnected. The car still operates fully and it might extend the battery use and life. With a 2023/4 car I've no idea if this system is so integral to the running of the car that it can't be disconnected. In which case I'd expected there not to be connector at the negative terminal clamp but if there is one try disconnecting it, I can't se how you can do anything wrong as the computers would take over and not let you start or drive the car or put up all sorts of warnings and lights at least to tell you off. Have a look, try if you can and let us know or put up a landscape photo of the battery negative terminal on here.

No and no. Age doesn't matter like use, abuse and neglect. If you wait until something misbehaves that is already passed the better point of fuller recovery and better and long service life of the battery. By the time you get a low battery warning message the start-stop will have made itself unavailable for use one or many more times, worst still the computers don't like low batteries and can show this by causing unexpected issues (and unseen error counts) before putting up any messages and lights to the driver. This is when the engine still starts normally and the lights seem bright enough. Best that the battery is recharged before this but certainly at this point for better and longer service life of the battery. The recharge might be a good run with less electric items used on the car or to use an appropriate charger maintainer having read and followed the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger' instructions. When you get to the point where the engine is difficult to start on a modern car you have possibly/probably taken the battery beyond where it can fully recover from this and may have shortened its service life. For many a few, as required, preventative recharges by using using an appropriate charger maintainer, having read and followed the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger' instructions will prevent the premature and unnecessary change of expensive battery and prolonger and better its service and life. But for those that prefer to change the battery that's fine, helps the economy and companies profits at least, I've changed batteries before just out of convenience (and being lazy in my case and loathing working on my own cars). It's a bit like filling the fuel tank before you run so low you have run around looking for fuel or running out - I've done that a few times but never with more recent modern cars, they might not like that. 😄

I might have bettered that with my last car had I not changed the battery for my convenience (being lazy and loathing to do anymore work on my car even charging the battery). But my last car had very little electric stuff on it from new, previous model didn't even have a boot or interior light and was dynamo not alternator. As I've probably (I might be wrong) had more ****-poorly, abysmally, poor, not correct out of the box car parts than all the rest of the posters here put together by my 30+ years of running various "classics" (old over-priced and over valued) cars as "dallies" I can say I think that for decades car batteries have been excellent and long lasting given the changing circumstances but now unless some/many owner/drivers revert back to using (appropriate) charger maintainers the car manufacturers like VW will their way with changing the battery (most times prematurely or unnecessarily) at first 5 years or less. The car 12v battery has been the/one of most oversold car part for many years, if not decades now. A van that is 17 or more years old generally will have nowhere near the potential electric loading use that a 2021, let alone 2023/4 car has, plus the van generally has a bigger studier battery and is used a lot more frequently giving the battery what it is designed for, cyclical (not sure that's the word I mean) use, many would not know or understand have very little some cars are actually driven. The car for some is no more than a portable entertainment, information, communication device and in the future a portable storage of electric energy to be taken or used elsewhere for other than transport or 'infotainment.' For those with more interest about car batteries in more modern VW and others cars, but there is plenty more and better info on here and elsewhere than the below examples. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499006-car-battery-now-is-the-time-to-check-it https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year

So different location and relies on accuracy of of gauge and sensor/pick-up/wotsit/thingy and their pairing matching? The car's original gauge is good enough for everyday general use but for your more precise testing and comparisons you need to stick with whichever is the most accurate measure and allow for it accuracy and precision.

Yes it should but a battery is only a store so it depends on its use, abuse and neglect by the car and owner/driver, it's very rare nowadays that a battery is faulty, the of likes VW car manufacturer's computing programs or parts being faulty is another matter. Batteries may be changed just to keep the customer happy as many don't understand and put the car battery at fault when it is not, even when the battery is new. The make of the battery and its three letter VW code is totally unimportant that was for VW's benefit the car and the computer program couldn't really care less, your friend could have just left it the same as it was. On my wife's car we changed to "BOSCH" which isn't even three letters. The serial number you want to change but you only need to change one digit, my wife's, and others have reported the same on here, was from factory 1111111111 (ten lots of 1) and it was changed to 1111111112 the same as on many other VW cars that got a battery change. See below from when a Briskoda member 'coded' the battery for me (on his OBDEleven). The type of battery, EFB or AGM (which of course VW call "fleece"), the Ah rate (or close enough) and change of "serial number" are the important changes for 'coding'. If you have the new battery and you or car haven't depleted its store you shouldn't need to give it a good before going away for 10 days but check your Owner's Manual for advice. If you want or need to go for a good run then that's fine but if during that run you take out from the battery, by using lots of electric consumers on the car more than you put back in then obviously there will be less in the battery whilst the car sits for 10 days. Think of it like your bank account whilst you are away and spending. Personally unless I had, or wanted, to go for a good run in the car I'd save fuel and if possible just connect up an appropriate battery charger maintainer whilst I was away to return to the car with a full battery rather than 10 days depleted, having used a very , very little home electric and easiest work on the car whilst away from it. I like any work on the car that keeps my hands clean and I have the very least to do as possible and battery charging is so easy (with the appropriate charger maintainer reading and following the car's Owner's Manual and chargers instructions). I am at this very moment ,whilst one finger typing this, charging a neighbour's 2021 car battery that is sat 10 doors away down the street, I am warm from it (though it might be the sausage sandwiches and mug of (singular so far) tea, this is the only sensible way to work on cars!!

Give the whole belt a good visual check. Bear in mind things like tensioners and pullies can have issues or need replacement, see rum4mo's post of 21 April, 2021 and - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485097-cambelt-change/page/2/#comment-5567999 IITC 23 July(?) last year VWSkoda for UK finally came in line with Europe and admitted to the the belt change at 15yrs/150k- miles(?) (180K-miles?) the info is no here several times some posts/threads. Too late for the robbing bastards not to have £429 off of us, I wished I'd researched the subject more then, such is lif. ETA: this is the Fabia Mk3 forum if that makes any odds to your particular engine set up.

Depends what car it was. Yours was a great fun car and practical too. We had the Estelles in the mid-1980s to earlier 90s when The Sun reading sheep were taught to take the **** out of them, heard some good jokes then though. Which is why the following always amused , I used to send it to the Porsche owners I knew, luckily most of them weren't the stereotype owners you used to, and still do, get but this was when they only made sportscars. (good for Golf owners too of course). 😁 -

90C on the dial - I forget, have you established how accurate that dial reading is, have you another gauge in your car or off-board, perhaps digital readout, of the same point of source for the dial reading to confirm that reading the dial shows?

If your surfaces are all good then you only need a paper gasket and in theory you should only ever need a paper gasket, but in the real world of old cars after 30+ years of actually driving old cars as they were intended as "dailies", work, commuting to work (300 & 500 miles for many months as well), holidays and club events in UK and parts of Europe - sometimes a sealant is required. I would always try 'paper' gasket only where I could but it didn't always work. And I too have very occasionally made my own paper gaskets, it's easy, a small ball pein hammer to carefully mark out the shape and cut out the holes in the gasket paper, then cut and tidy up with scissors as required, or use a hole punch where you can if you have them. The best of the few sealants I have used for coolant was Hylomar Hylotyte Red 100, which as far as I can see is still available, and better for coolant than their Universal Blue. https://hylomar.com/en/hylotyte-red-100/

As well as Kenlowe you could look at the Revotec fans and fixings but they are expensive and the switch relays, when I had them at least, not as good as they should be but you could buy the fan and make your own fixing and wiring, or use what's on the car perhaps(?). T here used to be people that worked there that you could actually talk to over the phone (or at shows) about 5 years ago but I've no idea now.

Red too, well done on keeping the colour.

For electric driven (and switched) fans for other "classics" some have just bought from scrapyards (and/with shrouds perhaps) off other makes and model of cars and had lots of luck with fit and years of reliable service (I would never had such good luck, I didn't not even with some brand new expensive systems and parts). There are many aftermarket fans and kits available that can be attached to the radiator, if you have the room a fan that sucks the air through (rather than blows through) is more efficient. You can also have variable switching so you set when it activates and override switch to switch it on when you want (this always seems like having a dog and barking yourself to me). Best thing is to have all the cooling/heating system clean inside and out (engine, radiator & heater matrix) with coolant that is still in good condition and all parts and components clean and working well. Also, again, have you had a look and considered also posting in Skoda Classic Cars & Parts For Sale. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/406-skoda-classic-cars-parts-for-sale/ HTH.

Have you had a look and considered also posting in Skoda Classic Cars & Parts For Sale. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/406-skoda-classic-cars-parts-for-sale/ If the gasket is paper then that's easy, otherwise you could use an appropriate gasket sealant as the gasket, @Thefeliciahacker would be able to advise on both. Good luck.

The start-stop has a list of requirements before it will operate but if yours isn't activating when it normally would then simply recharge ASAP be it a longer drive where you're not using the battery power too much so that the battery can regain or very simple, easy (non) work recharge it with an appropriate battery charger maintainer reading and following the car's Owner's Manual and chargers instructions with as low slow long recharge as possible and get the battery to fully recharged even if it takes more than one go. Do it now before the battery goes down more and you could get much more useful life out of the battery, consider preventative charges too when required or reasonable. The heat of summer helps the battery to self-discharge more, twice as much at 30c ambient than 20c and twice as much between 30c to 40c ambient (like it was a couple of years ago) and of course cold winter weather, so just before or after these types of times, when changing to and from winter tyres if you do that, whatever suits. A battery maintainer if the car sits for many days or a few weeks. Using a battery charger may extended the life of the van battery too, make it a family heirloom for when you've gone to the Bus Lane in the sky. 😁

Yes I do that on my neighbour's 2023 Ren-No! Nissan when I look over my shoulders when reversing whilst also looking in the door mirrors and reversing camera screen, he cannot understand why I don't just rely on the screen! Most useful in that space is engine oil temperature. As I've just put this on another post I'll copy % paste it here.- "Use the coolant gauge as just a gauge, obviously if it shows very high then it's very warm to hot, but the needle is biased to show a rock steady 90c even though the actual temperature could be a bit below and above this and fluctuate between, this is so ordinary drivers don't worry about the variances. Better to have the oil temperature showing in your dash to confirm against the coolant gauge. Have a look in your Owner's Manual for oil temperature range (80-110c IIRC), engine oil is fully warmed at about 90c so you want to be at or above that to have the oil working well, my wife's 1.2 TSI SE runs at about 95c only going much higher when pushed."

Yeah perhaps done correctly to their Dealer level but perhaps not thoroughly as an owner might do it, being the owner and user, professional levels of doing work aren't necessarily the highest levels (or anywhere near sometimes). Sounds like you are lucky to have a good local Dealer, next time if they are still there and you still consider VWSkoda products you might be better buying the car from the local Dealer, just being local can be very handy but if they're also decent why risk elsewhere, there's a lot of low quality in the English car trade. Use the coolant gauge as just a gauge, obviously if it shows very high then it's very warm to hot, but the needle is biased to show a rock steady 90c even though the actual temperature could be a bit below and above this and fluctuate between, this is so ordinary drivers don't worry about the variances. Better to have the oil temperature showing in your dash to confirm against the coolant gauge. Have a look in your Owner's Manual for oil temperature range (80-110c IIRC), engine oil is fully warmed at about 90c so you want to be at or above that to have the oil working well, my wife's 1.2 TSI SE runs at about 95c only going much higher when pushed. What you have in your new formerly clean expansion tank might just be release residue dirt or wotever residue from the previous work done but the selling Dealership but it'd have been better to have got rid of that before fitting the new clean expansion tank and have it full of fresh clean (VW number) coolant, An old diesel might look rough but a newer and petrol with new tank and coolant should look factory fresh (almost perhaps?). Try one long drive with the heater on full cold, no fans going, and then the next same long drive with the heater on full hot and fan going at say '2', check everything reamains cold then hot and engine temps readings and that should satisfy you if all is well. I changed the "lifetime" VW coolant on my wife's 2015 Fabia and it was clean before I started and after I'd finished (no silica tea bag) and it was only a drain and refill (because VW make what should be an easy job with their PITA ways). Good luck.

Totally agree but if the battery is charged, by reading and following the car's Owner's Manual and charger instructions, with an appropriate battery charger maintainer at the point of the start-stop being inactive and not allowed to go even further lower then the battery can be revived and given lots more useful life, Better still give the battery preventative charges when required so that the battery is at a level above where the start/stop becomes unavailable and the battery with give better service and last even longer. Doesn't have to be often and it's certainly not hard work and you keep your hands clean, car maintenance as it all should be (but isn't). By the time you get to poor engine starting you have let the battery get too low, if not from a one-off mistake then possibly from too much use, abuse and neglect.

The sooner you can put it on charge and the lower and longer it's on the charge the more chance of getting it fuller and nearer full, overnight and well into tomorrow perhaps. If you [£TA: missing word] don't - have the chance to get it fully charged in one go then do the same tomorrow. If you can do check the electrolyte ('water') level of each cell (take no notice of any 'magic eye' ball) sometimes you only need peel back the label(s) on the top to expose the screw tops to the cells which also give you a chance to look at the plates in each cell, often it's an end cell that might look iffy, if so you might be better replacing the battery to be sure of less to do with it. As you don't know the history then I'm with you about changing it to be sure and then you can look after the new battery more and better. Good luck, let us know how you get on. It may not cure the horn issue but with engine starting and electrical issues (particularly involving the computers) a fully charged battery can help and a low battery can hinder and prevent proper diagnostics proceeding.

Dennis has covered it. The start/stop has a computer program for the battery so battery details are entered, plus it would help VW monitor build and any battery issues under warranty - there was a one time a Recall, when more likely it'd have been the computer program at fault as VW might not have ben as clever as they thought they were with it but as we all know they could be very clever with using computer programs to fiddle the figures when wanted. 😆 If you've not got start/stop then it might well be worth fully charging the battery with a charger, unless you have used, abused or neglected the battery too much, or a car fault has done so, you could well see more years out of the battery. Up to you of course. Good luck.

Hi, it depends on which type (model name) of infotainment you have fitted to your car, I just went to the first one called Swing with 6 physical buttons (instead of touch screen images of buttons on other models). I'd guess the procedure is the same or very similar on the other models, you can delete all mobile devices if you want. If that doesn't work then it's beyond me. Don't worry about messing anything up just take your time if altering settings and be sure before pressing any conformation. I hope you haven't got any red lights on the dash as you don't want to be angering the gods that are the VW computers or they will make you suffer for your mistake.

Can you confirm which car, 2009 Yeti or 2014 Yeti? Try fully recharging it with an appropriate charger maintainer first, read and follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions. Better lower and slower recharging to full than higher and faster recharging to full. 12v car battery is the most oversold car part many being replaced unnecessarily or prematurely or very prematurely (7 years wouldn't be so good on a 2009 model at least). But if you'd still sooner change the battery then best to get the new battery 'coded' in for the sake of speed and at the same time if possible get a full scan tool report on your car and then have all the error codes deleted. Battery manufacturer date isn't fitting date but you'd hope they'd be fairly close but (nothing is certain with s/h cars or any car from the motor trade).