Former

VW, and no doubt others, make it a real PITA job just t get the spark plugs out. you have to remove the air filter box which is a PITA job (neither difficult just awkward-ish) then you need perhaps a coil puller or diy equivalent and perhaps grease for one or all for putting back in, thin wall magnetic spark plug socket, oh, the joy of it all. I probably put this before but a low mileage car has advantages and dis advantages and in some aspects needs more service and maintenance not less than a higher mileage car. No service history means you are probably best assuming there's little or none so getting everything done for age rather than mileage. I'm 100% certain I'd have mentioned the battery and its state of charge and health. If you're not too well don't worry about it too much the engine and associated stuff is generally one of the less important things on the car - brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), electrics (lights, wipers, horn, blower, etc.), windows, mirrors number plates - see and be seen all more important than engine and drive stuff. If you've got a son-in-law as a mechanic why are you doing or worrying about anything! Toe cap, seat of trousers (jeans). 😄

Ian, put up a video if you can. If it's a rattle and shake that doesn't sound right especially if it shakes for a minute of driving. What's the confirmed service history on the car, when were (if ever) the spark plugs and engine air filter last changed? Do you have access to a VW appropriate scan tool that's not just generic OBD2 code reader? See also below for rough idle - but in my experience if you get this and then just pull away you don't notice anything more.

If you had the money why would you only use it on meetings and not drive it more. The photo is a C2 I think and IIRC has drum brakes, we had a split-window one in the club that came out on a tour with us once, typical Yank car OK for straight roads only IIRC. I always like the look of the C3 but a mate said I would not like the build quality, plus we have Marcos here that have a similar look but are English made and slightly more suitable for our roads but like a Jag E-Type the cabin is a long way from the front bumper when having to pull out from a narrow t-junction, especially with hedges all round you are pulling out with only faith for guidance.

In the UK the value of ordinary "classics" is mainly based on the cosmetics, doesn't matter if the car is faulty with poor running, as long as the components are in reasonably good condition they don't need to be properly set up for good running or performance. That is one of the problems with "classics" they can look great and run poorly, and be driven poorly, as long as they look good. So you present them as well as possibly for insurance assessment photos or inspection, clean and highly polished, exterior and interior looking as it should. Restricted mileage depends on the provider and policy, it can lower policy premiums to have more restricted mileage but not always, my Midget had unrestricted mileage as a no-cost option - this of course doesn't matter for FIVA as there is a restriction of use already for the registration. Possibly most, but possibly not all, insurance providers I would have thought will be following the restrictions of FIVA in your country but if you don't ask you won't know. There are also other types of specialist insurance policies, in the UK at least, that accept the vehicle and it's owner/drivers are not in the mass market type of cover and reflect this. ETA: There is no point as registration with the FIVA restricts the use of the vehicle well beyond what you want to use your vehicle for (and what I did with all of mine).

Yes that's if you buy standard, run-of-the-mill, mass market car insurance which is why you go to a specialist provider, at least here in the UK, and as I put there are many of them in the UK and the policy rates are low because they know the owners will avoid getting their precious (to them) cars in accidents or scrapes and will normally used the car less and in better circumstances. As an example, with my 1973 MG Midget I had unrestricted use and a very comprehensive cover with extras, ability to drive other cars (third party cover), full UK and European breakdown and recovery, a (self assessed, up to £15,000) agreed value and all for quite a bit less than what my wife paid for annual breakdown recovery let alone the insurance on her car. I could have used it exactly as you do with your Felicia now if I had wanted (I always try to avoid cities as much as possible whether I'm in a car or not). I used my various "classics" for at various times some or all of the following, work, commutes (300m and 500m a week for a good number of months) holidays (UK and Europe), club tours and events for 30+ years all fully legally on "classic" insurance policies.

If the contract has conditions to get the 2,000 euro then if the conditions are not meet you wont necessarily get the 2,000 euros, if the conditions are meet then you get the 2,000 euro, so you need to read the contract or enquire before signing the contract. In the UK there are many insurers that specialise in "classic" insurance, their policies and terms and conditions are not all the same so you need to buy the policy that suits your needs and wants. Here, the policy cost can have little to do with the cover provided as different insurers calculate the risks differently and specialise in different areas and aspects of "classics" and their use, you need to pick the insurer and policy that suits your wants and needs - and read the policy before signing. People often say stuff is "hidden in the small print" when actually it isn't, it's often in the normal size print and clearly stated, they may have made assumptions and/or not read the policy before or after signing., I have dealt with that a few times with mates and others, one mate dealt with contracts and even appeared at courts for his company quoting contracts yet he made assumptions (and ignored some previous advice I gave him, cos that's what mates do) and then whinged about losing out on a bit of money he need not have.

In the UK you can get "agreed valuation" between policy holder and insurer but exactly what the "agreed valuation" is and means can vary between insurance providers so this needs to be checked and understood by the car owner before taking the contract with the insurance provider so as the car owner doesn't get less than he thought he would (by making assumptions instead of reading the contract).

Hi, welcome. Have you tried the switch in both the passenger door and passenger door? To often help save time, money and hassle it pays to read the Owner's Manual and then refer to it when required. If you've not got your paper printed copy you can download a free VWSkoda pdf copy from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models In my pdf copy for MY 2016 it shows fuse 10 of dash panel lot as "Power windows - rear left". - HTH.

I've only just noticed whilst we've been referring to engine Nm your graph has "kW at wheel". If the following is correct and I assume it's not at wheel measurement claims but at flywheel or have things changed(?) - "The Skoda Octavia is an all wheel drive 4 door with 5 seats, powered by a 1.8L Turbo 4 Cylinder engine that has 132 kW of power (at 4500 rpm) and 280 Nm of torque (at 1350 rpm) via a 6 Speed Auto Direct Shift." I'm with you that possibly it's wrong maps, whether there are other elements to the issue too is difficult to speculate, a scan tool report might show issues or error codes for the engine, turbo, gearbox or other(s). Without a dyno I'd have thought pre-installation and post-installation scan tool reports would be even more important. If the installers claim not to have those (or didn't do them) then a scan tool report now might be useful. You should have a label or two on the car or other info to show which engine your vehicle has (subject to the engine being the same as when the car left the factory) that you can show to APR and/or their agents.

I'm not sure the "stock" setting here is the original VWSkoda stock - but I have no idea what a stock, or any other, graph would really look like. Do a lot of places still tweak the dials for ego/marketing/sales figures, I look for the shape and position of lines rather than the numbers. My view is if the car is fully and properly serviced, maintained, repaired (not just Dealer level service) and set up then without other changes big gains may come from too much cutting in of manufacturers parameters and margins but of course that depends on many factors and how tight the original parameters and large the original margins.

Also never fully exercising the car by very restrictive revs and speeds, which is probably best on many very shiny but mechanically poor (not the case with thefeliciahacker) "classic" cars we have very occasionally on the UK roads for the reasons I gave before and (unmodified) cars over 40 years old do not require an annual MoT. Just one example, period (27 years old) tyres, plenty of tread. Posted with the permission of the car owner R G Everitt (as education to other "classic" car owners).

Good to hear the car is in excellent condition, in the UK a Dealer service record can be little more than annual engine oil and filter changes. Stage one tuning used to be go-faster stripes on the side of the car and fancy wheel caps, on the figures I quoted before yours was for a 50% increase which sounds a lot to me so some serious stuff of amendments. If they replace one set of programs with another surely they save the original set to reload if required. Was there a precheck of the vehicle to see if everything was OK before to do the tuning and a contract you and them signed for the work that you can return to. Good luck, let the site know how you get on.

Yes much to my dislike (but as I always put each to their own) you are a typical young/old timer type owner but I was thinking of D.FYLAKTOS who doesn't drive the car like it's some museum relic and actually knows how his car could and should go because he drives it regularly - a "go" car rather than a "show" car. I was around old-farts that owned and barely drove "classic" cars for over 30 years and know about owning, maintaining and actually driving such cars. I know about the UK insurance and legal restrictions which are no where near as restrictive as the old-farts think they are or make out they are. The UK is full of many, many "classic" car clubs and owners and has laws specially for "historic" ("classic") vehicles and has done for decades. It's your car so you enjoy it the way you want to, others of us prefer to drive the cars as intended rather than just parade them. I have driven my cars at shows in the UK and tours and parades in Europe but not sunny Sunday afternoon type driving even on sunny Sunday afternoons (doesn't mean I drove fast but not dragging-arse slow as some old-farts do). 1,250 miles isn't enough to keep the car running well unless it's constantly pampered. more of a static exhibition than real car IMO Some enjoy the tinkering with the car rather than actually driving it, it takes all sorts to make a world.

I thought I saw you are not supposed to use the vehicle daily - which to me is absolutely stupid as it means others don't see historic vehicles everyday, in proper use as they were designed for and used back in their day, rather than occasionally driven in a way unlike when they were used regularly, and highly polished and presented in a way you would rarely have seen them back in their day. It's not real history it's unrealistic history. But as always each to their own.

To me your graph shows a pretty fierce tune, about 250 Nm expected(?) at wheels stock to about 375 Nm expected at wheels APR stage 1(?) at 2,790 revs. You'd want the whole car including engine, turbo, brakes, suspension, tyres, etc. in very good condition and whole car fully and properly serviced, maintained and repaired before starting that tuning, What exactly is in the APR Stage 1 tuning package, parts, tuning, what? What else on the engine or related to the engine has also been changed? For engine difference information you might be better looking on and/or asking on the ' Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ or the 'Octavia Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/207-octavia-projects/ Modern cars are all about the computer programs in them and VW have complex intertwined computer programs going back a good while, even VW don't seem to always get all of their computer programs right all of the time so errors in scan tool and tuning programs are possible, especially if applied to the wrongly. (Am I missing something) surely the tuners saved the car's previous programs as back up before putting their program on just in case something fouls up, standard computer stuff?

A 2019 car with 100,000 miles suggest it might have been used for longer journeys at higher speeds so if services and maintenance were kept up I am not surprised that the throttle is so relatively clean but not knowing the history of the car it could have done the 100,000 miles in say three years then had a year of short journeys on congested town/city streets in debris filled environments without being serviced or any combination or history, you don't know until you check. I have no idea about the GPF, they are not supposed to make any odds to the running but I wonder if the computer programming needed changing to accommodate them which might affect other program settings. You would have to ask VWSkoda and personally I don't think you would get much joy from doing that but you could try and I might be wrong as I often am. Even though the throttle is clean which is a good sign I would still check the air filter and spark plugs particularly if you have no certain record that they have been changed, neither may have anything to do with your revs issue but you want to prevent any other potential further issues, even live running scan tool results can only tell you so much and programmed parameters for some things can be quite wide. You could try doing and thoroughly looking at various live scan reports concentrating on various components that might cause or contribute this to this issue but it might be a long job, IIRC the numbers my wife's 2015 Fabia had 638(?) data points for the engine(?) and I would imagine a 2019 car would have possibly more, certainly more on the whole car than a 2015 model. I am not sure you will ever get to the bottom of this but again I might be wrong as I often am, good luck.

Many apologies, I've never even seen electric struts let alone know how they differ. For panels often some kind of plastic tool is best used but where and how much muscle you need on your car I've no idea. You may be best posting in the 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum for more and better detailed replies. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ You could also see if the WSM is on here. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda/skoda-superb/

BTW (not that it matters and no need to reply) did you realise you've posted in the 'Hellos and Goodbyes' forum and not 'General Maintenance' or 'Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)' forum. ( https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ )

Hi, welcome, The tailgate struts have a clip, no need to remove any panels. See the following video as an example. - HTH.

Doesn't have to be the bulb (with later cars at least) - though have you taken the bulb out to see if it's gone silver/smoked/black at all for incandescent or not all wotsits lit for LED? LED bulb quality varies a lot, incandescent replacement bulbs are generally poor quality and don't last now. Could it be a fault at holder, cluster board, connector, wires, computer program brain-fart(?)?. If it's a repeater try putting the hazards on without the engine running and check all are working OK, better still do that with the headlights, fogs, reverse, lights all on and pressing the brake lights on and off, to really test things, check all the lights remain bright and no changes with brake lights on and off.

Hi, welcome. Do you want this just for appearance or have you a high performance track car? You might be better putting the money towards a set of new very good quality tyres that will help with braking, steering, suspension, handling, road holding and possibly ride comfort and noise. You might also get more information about rear diffusers and perhaps better asking in the 'Fabia Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ Good luck.

Some makes of scan tools have info sent from users to help with updates, you might have to enable this feature, obviously the more users that have their reports sent to the scan tool maker that their programs have issues the quicker and better the updates with be. You can also I think send photos if you have a camera on the scanner. Some also have user forums that can be good. too. Many professionals (and non-professionals) are too lazy to carry out full updates and forget this when they plug into a make/model/year for a first time. I used to always update my neighbour's scanner before I borrowed it (and fully charge the battery) and some of the available updates were interesting, the files for the VW Phaeton were huge, not that we would ever see such a beast, and I guess more about halo/ego marketing for the scanner maker given the level of scan tool my neighbour had. And stuff for Asian market commercial vans from a brand I had never heard of, but my neighbour had as he has a very compressive motor car website. - https://motor-car.net/

As put, the computer programs are very complex and intertwined, as put, speed and braking are related to so many systems on/in the vehicle. Which is why you don't want to let the car's battery power drop to them, they don't like it and will make you suffer for that mistake. And that's not allowing for any errors or omissions in any of the vast amounts of computer programming on the vehicle. In the last week my wife told me it had finally happened, she was in town driving slowly and the front collision thing jumped on the brakes and threw up a warning for no apparent reason then she saw a bag blowing by in the wind, I'd predicted wrong I thought that would happen but with a large leaf. I might have been right when previously she told me the front anti-collision thing apparently said it was unavailable and later became available again. The "amber triangle of doom" dash warning light has come on a couple of times and I've found no fault and it's not bothered returning again. Then a couple of other times lit up too late when the issue has already been noted by the driver (but perhaps a good reminder for some non-drivers that passenger behind the steering wheel of the moving infotainment machine). I think it was Toyota (of all manufactures!) that had a model go into limp mode at a reported failure of brake light, but they sorted that. Telsa, computer experts, well where do you start with their cars and computer glitches (brain-farts, human or electronic) obviously as computer people they know all are entirely the fault of the users and not their machines or programming.

You may need to check where you are but there no reason why you can't do additional work and reset any reminders as long as the work done and items used are to warranty specification. Personally I take the German additional specification numbers with a pinch of salt - but my wife's car is not under warranty - good oil that meets the required specification is a good oil, VW (and others) will use and promote the oil (company) that they have a commercial contract with and then go on to change their own specification numbers and oil suppliers other the years and decades and possibly sales markets. A very good quality oil will protect more and for longer, it does not need any "long life" label. The oil change (along with other) schedules are merely based on mileage or time not the condition of the oil (and filter) and the oil may best be changed sooner or possibly even a bit later, it depends on so many variables. In the USA where oil is (even) more of a consumable they have places that change engine oil at 3,000 and 5,000 mile intervals.

A bit like but more than taking a live or earth supply to a component to see if actuates, if the component actuates then you can look for an issue in the power supply (or communication. All scan tools are only another diagnostic tool that require correct interpretation and conformation of the info they give, sometimes they point to the culprit but certainly not always, many using a scan tool might replace a part when it's merely shooting the messenger not solving the issue.