Former

You dismissed this earlier and was happy with your battery readings (at battery terminals). Try checking the reading for the battery (at the terminals with a multimeter) many hours after the car was last used, perhaps the next day from overnight parking, and see if they differ much from before. Sexy scan tools are all very well but the boring basics still need to be done. So many take a lot of convincing that just because the engine starts and lights seem bright enough that the car battery might still be in a low state of charge (and health) which can cause all sorts of unexpected issues even before the warning lights and messages show. If the battery is used/abused/neglected for too long/ too many times then even using an appropriate battery charger maintainer may not be able to recover it or recover it sufficiently. Also of course checking the battery terminals and terminal clamps are clean and secure and the main cables and earths are in good condition and connections clean, secure and protected - of course you may have already done this. A battery in a lower state of charge often will not help with diagnostics of engine staring and other electrical issues and may well hinder progress whereas a battery fully charged and in reasonably good condition will not hinder diagnostics and progress. Of course your problem may have nothing to do with the state of charge and health of your battery but as I put it may influence diagnosis. A number of times I've been assured "the battery is good" and it wasn't or I check the terminal clamps (or battery holding clamps) and they are loose, had this the other week on a two-year-old car that had the battery replaced under warranty by the Dealership (Ren No! Nissan) positive battery terminal clamp offset so plastic cover wouldn't shut down and negative battery terminal clamp was overtightened so the clamp had bit into the battery post and needed a bit of work to get the two items to part from each other with very little room to get any tools in to assist with this. Dealerships really can make a mess of the simplest of jobs.

You could buy the wheel trims or just run with black wheels, a very serviceable colour, or if you want paint them another colour, dayglo red, orange, green or pink if you want. Only last week I had a neighbour ask if I'd look at his front wheel as he'd kerb'd it (even I can look at things), as we approached the car it didn't look good from a distance. As I got a bit closer I could see the wheel was steel with plastic trim cover so I said I'd take the trim cover off and take it home to see what could be done but once at the car wheel I could see it was a flexible type of trim cover held at the centre so I eased the cover bent edge from the inside of the wheel rim to outside with my fingers, three seconds of "repair work". But I did get my fingers cover in muck, that's just one of the things I don't like with farting about with cars, how very dirty many jobs are. But my neighbour was happy, I told him he was lucky it was a steel wheel and not an alloy. On an old shopping-trolly get him to work car, it's not a VW brand so he's had next to no problems with it and those were very minor and inexpensive to sort (so very much not a VW brand).

Personally I would go for 15" wheels (and steel at that) and good quality 15" tyres. In Carlston's example above the Uniroyal RainExpert 5 205/60R15 91V have nominally 8% more sidewall than the Uniroyal RainSport 5 205/55R16 91V and of course both have more sidewall than the, to me silly, 17" and 18" tyres. A 205/55R16 already has about 9/10% more than a 205/50R17 - and a massive about 22% more than a 205/45R18.

Yes I'm sure they would have some very engineers' logic to it all and "continuous improvement", "meeting current/future standards" - with each change of coolant spec. I can't wait for G13 EVO, or would it be G12 EVO++ , TL-774 M or N, O, P depending on the G number and number of pluses, I'm not a VW engineer it's all beyond my logic, might be G15 next. for all I can tell. I bet some engineers are working on it now for my benefit, and this is the gratitude I give them, I'm ashamed of myself.

Tut, tut, the marvellous VW engineers changed their minds about that one, it's G12evo now (not G14, of course, as that would be too easy) I hope you're not disagreeing with those marvellous fellas, all the training, education and experience they went through, they wouldn't get things wrong would they. 😁 Get the drain catch bowl out. 😊 Only some German car owners know about those G numbers over here, it's good for the Dealerships and some retailers though, engineers, especially the German engineers it seems, do love their numbers.

Many, both sides of 'the pond', for their 1950s (MGA) cars favour Redline gear oil and report good findings and use, I favour more local companies but there are plenty of good gear oils about, as well as the standard and run-of-the-mill stuff to choose from. Oil 'weight' range can be much debated. attached the leaflet with Redline's point of view (old leaflet now(?)). - redline-mtl-redline-mt90.pdf

The second video does sound a lot worse - and to add insult to injury last July VWSkoda UK finally admitted, and got in line with Europe, that the rubber belts didn't need changing at 5yrs/60K-miles but at 15yrs/150k-miles IIRC. If it's a timing issue then some "fully-trained" VWSkoda Dealership/garage mechanic/technician might have ballsed it up but obviously I don't know and hope not and I don't know if for some reason the 3-pots might be an exception to the 'new' belt changing schedule (but I doubt it) and anyway it been done now, at least you didn't have to pay about £420 for it like we were conned into, so look on the bright side. Belt driven things, alternator or other driven pump(s) can give squeak noises and thumps (another reason to prevent the battery from constant low state of charge to help the alternator out). As you're one pot short of a set of four spark plugs and coils and leads/wires condition take on 33/25% more importance but I've no idea of particular relevance to (if) any to 1.0 110 engines (what's the (four letter?) engine code?). Rooted assures me these VW 3-pots are fine and OK which they may well be for 21st-century VW and relative to late 20th-century VW 4-pots which always sounded badger's bottom to my very limited experience of them. @Rooted will give a more balance view and greater info on the VW 3-pots (though he will say the same on proper servicing of the engine and car). This is something I recommend when considering a car and before purchase, best if possible with a real life and average mileage/use owner of the same model spec, engine, bearbox and age that is honest enough to tell you warts and all (not an all out marque fan and that's for any marque shopping trolly to hypercar) and also to read the Owner's Manual for the car so you know a bit about how it operates and its needs (a lot less marketing billhooks in that publication than others as it's expected to be very occasionally if ever, glanced at by captured purchasers). Do bear in mind this is a relatively (by modern standards) car with a downsized engine belatedly put in by outside force rather than VW choice and that Skoda isn't the label or halo brand of the group. Personally I'd pass the problem back to CINCH if they can't sort it to my full satisfaction in a reasonable time then the deal would be off, they will always use any agreement that is to their favour but usually (depends on what staff member you get) not want to lose a delivered sale. Again others will know better than my poor memory (imagination?) but I think CINCH are with just checked yeap, CINCH, British Car Auctions (and WeBuyAnyCar) are all part of the same lot so the cars come from many sources so not always bad but also not always good. A few years back I was at Rockingham Speedway when it was closed and a storing ground for loads of various vehicles and the next year or two after that when a stand had CINCH in the seating and one of the chaps their told me the place had basically been bought as a play place of three of the high ups but I guess things must have got "tight" (relatively) for them as they were having to put it to some (little) commercial use - obviously only internet talk and any resemblance to any living person is unintended coincidence. We never saw them and they let us use the track so I've no personal axe to grind, I'm sure they must be the salt of the earth despite my own personal many bad experience with those in the English motor trade.

Not in this thread but I'm almost sure (never 100% (or 110% if you follow kicky-bally) sure and never sure about remembering correctly) this has been covered in other thread(s) and probably a contribution from your good self but no reason not to repeat anything in this thread for other viewers. Maths are good and real life/world experiences are good.

Hi, welcome. Sorry I couldn't hear any warbling only hiss which could be just the recording/equipment. Someone with the same engine would perhaps know better. I obviously have no idea of how much you know about car and what experience of driving various cars you have but your surprise that a smaller (relatively light by modern standards) lighter less powerful car can be enjoyable to drive may mean you've been with heavier more powerful cars for a long time or your age and driving experience isn't as old as mine and a couple of other regulars here so please don't get upset if I now put stuff you already know. 13k-miles in 6 years may mean the car just needs a proper (not Dealership/some garages) full (whole) car servicing and maintenance (and driver maintenance) and a good (or few) proper "blow-out" runs once the car is confirmed to be suitable for such (not CINCH or any other list of "checks") and of course fully engine (oil, and other) warmed up. A low mileage car can often be more niggly than an average or high mileage car and because of the low mileage possibly not even get the scant annual servicing (of engine oil and filter change and little more else) or not timely servicing let alone maintenance, when in fact the car is in more need of servicing and maintenance check rather than less need. At 6 years old it should have had a minimum of 6 oil & filter changes, engine air filter change and that's just on the relatively unimportant part of the car which is the engine. A couple of brake fluid changes and checks on brakes, including the often forgotten brake component of tyres, which are also important to the steering and suspension systems. The car battery if it has been replaced might need the attention of an appropriate battery charger maintainer, if the particularly if the previous owner didn't use one, despite the fact the engine always starts and lights seem bright enough. At least a check of the state of charge of the battery on its terminal posts a good few hours after the car was last run. I am unusual here in not being a VW fan and have always thought there engines to be a bit on the rough side but now the VW computer programs have them giving all sorts of sounds as the computer programs do their stuff. The 1100 revs could be part of this or it might be a fault of some kind, doing a search on the engine on here or Google will cover this. I have no experience of VW's 3 cylinder car engines but have in the past had a couple of 660cc 3-cylinder turbo engines that were sweet as a nut, one particularly bulletproof, but both were Japanese, another was 699cc, 3-cylinder turbo excellent engine , surprisingly made by a different German marque used them as standard cars and for car club tours and car club in the UK and in France/ Germany. Others may be old enough to know of and use 250cc and 350cc engines and know how very little hp you need once moving on a level road and relatively little to go up hills and overtake at legal motorway speed, let alone the fun you can have on good unclassified, B and A roads.. Sorry that was more background info than a specific answer to your question. Plugging in an appropriate, for VW, good level of scan tool will show you anc error codes, current and perhaps any historic that the Dealership/garages have been too lazy to remove. This is a list of Briskoda members with the likes of VCDS scanners who may be near you and able to give you a report for free or beer token plus others proffesional with perhaps other rates. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) HTH.

😄 There certainly wasn't Papez's level of detail of detail in previous thread(s). I might be wrong but I have the feeling that there was a general conclusion previously that amy difference would be of no significance, but not spelled out in such a strict way as Papez has now put.

@medley many apologies, I am a silly old fool - I didn't realise I was directing you to the very forum you (and I) were posting on, I thought we were posting on the 'Audio, Electronics and Security' forum where I had just been. You could try private messaging or calling pab567 (bu using the '@' symbol just in front of pab567 as I have with your site name in this post) as he generally knows about infotainment and has downloads/updates I think, but possibly not for stuff this new, I don't know. Sorry about the mix up, I wasn't intentionally trying to be funny about it just old foggy confusion.

The one I was referring to is on here, this site, there might be others too elsewhere but I don't know, but then I didn't know there was a Scala until recently, sorry these so-called SUVs all look the same to me and I can't understand why there are so many different models of them in Skoda only. A Fabia Mk1 and Golf Mk2 are modern cars to me, for 30+ years I used over-priced, over-valued, 20-50 year old cars (called "classics" over here) as daily use, work, commuting, holidays in UK and abroad the last car I owned for 16 years, until 18 months ago was a 1973 MG Midget, no electronics other than the ignition distributor and LED indicator lights relay, only relay on the car, five fuses, no brake servo, no radio (let alone infotainment), no aux socket, single speed heater blower, and wipers. This one did have an interior land boot light my previous example of the model didn't. Yet somehow I survived, and through the UK winters and "summer" weather. I now drive a 2005, 2015 and 2023 cars and I MUCH prefer the 2005 car. There, a good moan to clear the miserable-old-man's mind, for a while anyway. 😄 Briskoda Škoda Scala forum (on this site). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/384-škoda-scala/

Yes that stuff was covered in previous thread(s) not necessarily the exact figures but certainly the principles. Coolant, antifreeze, additives in and can be added, accuracy of thermostat number starting to open and fully open, accuracy of water gauge and bias range, oil, which G number, all covered IIRC. Might not have covered possible efficient temperatures of different engines but we leave that to the German engineers to sort for us and all their designed systems on the car.

Sorry I didn't mean you had to have the bonnet open, I just did that as it made it easy for me to see the figures on the charger by just looking out the spare room window, with a torch as the backlight goes out, and it saves me having to guess how much longer the charging might take and having to get dressed up to go outside at such temperatures. Only this lunchtime I put that charger on to my neighbour's car and as he worries someone might steal something from the engine bay I hook the wire under a bit of plastic on the slam panel and shut the bonnet, lock the car so that its alarm is also on. Means the charger also has the computers drawing power but hopefully some of them go to sleep at some point. 0.3v draw initially at least. I only wonder if someone might steal the charger. 😄

That page also has 'Smartphone Connectivity', 'Bluetooth' and 'Radio station logos'. - Sorry I would not know if there a system update for a 2023 car but if there is I hope it might be covered with warranty or service agreement but if your VWSkoda lot are like ors in UK then probably not. AFAIK there is no over air updating, perhaps this is to give the named brand (VW) more separation and prestige against its Skoda brand to keep VW prices differentials. Previous models to yours I know can be updated using an SD type of thingy card, best on a long car run I believe as the update takes a long time I believe and you need the engine to be running to ensure electric supply from battery/alternator. The amount of electronics and computer programs on a 2023 car, and consumer use, you want an appropriate battery charger maintainer anyway to get the battery past a few years trouble-free life That sounds like a car warranty issue, doesn't your Dealership deal with such things under warranty? If you don't get answers here from others you could try posting in the Scala forum, or try asking fab567. Hope that helps, that me right out of ideas, I have had to put up with computers not doing as we were promised they would from the 1970s, same for mobile phones since the 1980s so I have little faith in them and particularly on things like moving heavy objects like cars, let the computers do everything, what could possibly go wrong, still it keeps my wife in (often very frustrating) employment, she counts down the hours to retirement. 😄

I've just posted this elsewhere and it might apply to you, VWSkoda update "portal". - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

Hi, welcome. I don't know if this would help but if you've not looked it might be worth a look also, VWSkoda update "portal". - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

Thanks for reporting back. Glad you're happy with your Ring RSC906 and that it works well for you. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc906-6a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Took 12 hours that time, future preventative charges shouldn't take as long. You don't need the luxury of a garage to use the 4-amp and you can fully recharge the battery in more than one session if required. In the photo I put up in this thread earlier I think it was a 14 or 15 hours session outside when the temperature was around or below +5c to -4c followed by a one hour session, with the car being used on a very short daily work commute between the two, to get the 60 Ah (AGM) battery to fully charged.

Quick thoughts. - Are you sure he replaced the anti-roll bars, are they special and not just metal bars? I'm also not sure what you mean by lower part of the springs but might be missing something. There could be two different issues or one issues causing the knock and tyre wear. The dampers (shocks) - are they akward to get off for your garage to have taken them off to test. There is also a Tyres & Wheels forum yo could try if you don't get many responses here. A bit of tangent advice, we had a diesel folding roof car so I would suggest for the sake of the driver and passengers (and everyone else around) you run it on something like V-power diesel (at least every 3rd tankful, better all the time) so you get clouds of white/silver smoke rather than the usual black (check your rear mirrors on gear drop hard acceleration). The stuff out of the exhaust doesn't all go behind the vehicle. And changes of engine air filter, oil and oil filter and other cleaning can help.

Yes please report back. Sorry I missed your post before now. @Carlston will let you know what fits and you can let us know if those 17" alloy wheels from a Seat Leon MK3 fit and can be successfully used.

You've covered this subject in depth previously, also that a coolant does more than just protection from freezing or boiling, and various combinations to use as a coolant.

Not for the sudden change but for generally better gear changes and particularly in cold weather check the oil level in your gearbox and a change of gear oil could be beneficial and changing to a good synthetic gear oil could further improve gear changes particularly on colder days. I've had much older, and younger, cars than 26 years old and have found changing the gearbox (and rear axle gear oil). I changed the gear oil in my wife's 2015 Fabia 5-speed manual at 6 years and 38,000-miles and she said it made an improvement and we have been together f..a..r too many decades for her to say anything just to prove me right or please me.

Have look at this thread - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520881-help-with-tuned-second-hand-fabia/ Or if you're more easily bored and/or want instant answers then you could perhaps skip to the latest post on that thread - but I'm not sure everyone would agree about the posters idea on brakes and particularly braided hoses giving increase in brake performance, I've braided brake hoses but not for that reason and tyres are the most neglected brake improvement component, tho' the poster has recognised their importance. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520881-help-with-tuned-second-hand-fabia/page/2/#comment-5836928 Here's the download of the petrel info Rooted put up. - petrol.pdf HTH.

It's a very common mistake that because there are no very obvious signs otherwise that a battery must be in a reasonable state of charge and certainly not a low state of charge. 2 hours is a very short time for a recharge on a battery that threw up warning lights or messages. It could be that you used a higher amperage charger and/or the charge doesn't hold as long and will be required again sooner. VW recommend 0.1 of the battery Ah for the charger when charging the battery on the car so say 60 Ah battery has a 6-amp charger at most. I personally, with back up from battery manufacturers, would use lower that takes longer. I use a 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer on my wife's 2015 Fabia with a 60 ah (AGM) battery fitted to carry out preventative charges. I would more happily use a 3 or 2 amp "smart" charger maintainer even if it meant taking more than one charging session to get the battery to fully charged. Read and follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for the charger. Well done on having the battery last 9 years, so far, you might/could get more good useful out of the battery with checking the state of charge and when required fully recharging it with an appropriate charger maintainer (lower and slower rather than higher and faster) when required or better still in a preventative fashion.

Is that button start faulty or some sort of system code of pushing the button to get the car to start or stop - even if it was fully functioning well, why bother with such stuff on an older car, it just seems to add complication and potential for faults to a system that works perfectly well already - but as always each to their own. Push button start goes back to before I was born so not exactly novel either. I find the systems on modern cars, particularly the latest cars are more of an interfering PITA to actually being able to, and need to, actually drive the car rather than be a semi-passive passenger behind the steering wheel. Moan over, for now. 😁