Former

In the above example from Carlston's recommended 135/80/18 (80 profile, them were the days) there's only a (nominal) 1.9% difference would this be acceptable mechanically and for the computer not to light up the dash like a Xmas tree? And would the 135 against 235 make any odds on normal roads?

I don't know the answer about damage but @toot probably will and with my call out to him will post here as he's a very helpful chap. In the meantime - It also depends on if the car is RWD and has a limited-slip diff. Personally I'd avoid using a space saver on any vehicle and have done for over 20 years since fitting a space-saver (at front) to a low powered MX-5 (RWD no LSD) and travelling at only 30 mph through town. I personally would certainly avoid it on a 4X4. Because of fashion all modern vehicles (over here at least) have very oversized wheels and tyres so when wheel of 3.5" wide and tyres 125 (5" nominal) and 135 (5.3") is seen they're totally unfamiliar with them. I still have a spare (full-sized!) 3.5" wheel in my shed with a 145 (5.7" nominal) tyre and most people would now be amazed that such wheels and tyres were on vehicles in the past. Assuming your tyres are 225/45 R19 (stupid Skoda site has "19" Vega alloy wheels in polished black" and "Tires 205/40 R17 84W"(!?) if you had a 135/80 r18 you would be going from (nominal) width of 225 (8.9") to 135 (5.3"), 125 (5") would be even narrower of course.-

If you are looking in UK English then you want "faces" rather than "masks", that is, custom gauge faces. In the USA they might be called "faceplates". These tend to be printed stickers (quality and material of stickers varies). Only as one example but not for premade Skoda as I could not find any - https://lockwoodinternational.co.uk/dials/custom-dials/ and - https://www.speedycables.com/instruments/custom-gauges/ Or do-it-yourself, see "Step 4: Designing Your Face Plate" here. - https://www.instructables.com/Customized-Car-Instrument-Cluster-Gauge-Face/ Imported cars to the UK often need the speedo face changing to comply with UK regulations so there are companies that do this and can change the other dial faces too, just as an example and no more. -https://www.speedofixer.co.uk/automotive_custom_dials_made_to_order.html I hope all this gives you more scope to look for what you want.

No I doubt it's the battery for this but as the car is new to James it's one of the many things it's best to check not too many sellers thoroughly check a vehicle when selling despite what some of them might say, plenty of threads and posts on here on that subject. If there's a second unused bulb on the other side and using it resolves the issue then after a sufficient period of use to confirm this do throw away the bulb taken out so you don't forget and reuse it elsewhere and perhaps have the same happen again. I can never understand why some people keep blown plug fuses and the like where you can't see they're blown particularly in with a stock of good plug fuses but some do.

So you repeatedly keep telling me over and over and over . . . Yet you agreed with the other sour complainant on here, when he was proved wrong about something else I put, when he wrote "right and wrong is for vicars and tarts", you seem to want it both ways or more accurately what suits you. As the other bitter and twister poster put - "Stick it up on Moneysupermarket then".

Hi, welcome. I've had a check a brake light and I could find nothing wrong but I might have change the bulb anyway (I forget)I and sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the socket and wire loom connectors, Then another time I noticed one of the (incandescent) daylight running lights was dimmer than the other then forgot about it as I rarely drive my wife's car, it took the car's computer a week to put up a warning by which time the bulb had gone the blackest I've ever seen a bulb so certainly there was some fault somewhere. The car's VW computer can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues if the car battery is too low for it, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning symbols or messages. This might not be the reason for your issue now but if the battery is low(ish), say below 12.2V/12.3V then fully recharge it just in case, an appropriate battery charger and maintainer is the best way to ensure the battery is fully charged (see 'Owner's Manual' for more details). My advice, for what it's worth, is If your battery is low then just charge it up fully and see if the message returns, if the battery is OK then change the bulb (and clean socket and connectors) as it might just be the vibrations from driving upsetting the bulb, many modern made bulbs are poorly made so replace it with a better made one if necessary. You may be able to see if the bulb is a factory fitted one if it has a date on it. You could also post in the Octavia MK3 forum to see if this is a common problem with the model or not. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ Closing advice - don't let the car battery get too low for the computers or they will make you suffer and if you read and before even doing simple jobs, like changing a bulb, refer to the 'Owner's Manual' you will know more about your model than many long term owners and some at garages and Dealerships. If you've not got a paper printed copy you can download a free VWSkoda pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Some software updates perhaps from here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ And perhaps any admitted (so few) Recall actions from here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns HTH.

If you gave more detail about your car in your posts and/or nameplate then others could give more info on servicing, the engine type or better still code, the type of gearbox, perhaps trim level. In posts mileage, service history, recent work done, not done.

If it was a long slow discharge then a long slow recharge would be better, using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, 4-amp charger better than 6-amp and 1, 2 or 3amp better than 4-amp 5 weeks isn't a long time, don't bother with fuel injector cleaner just fill the tank with Tesco Momentum 99 for petrol or Shell V-Power Diesel for the cleaning additive packages. Check your air filter and air box and trunking and hoses to engine are clean and free of debris (perhaps same for cabin filter), change filter(s) if required. Once the battery is fully charged, with the engine running test all electric motors to full, heater flaps and blower, wipers, door windows (etc. if any). Go for an easy test run then if everything on the car is OK fill with tankful of fuel(s) mentioned, get the engine and whole car fully warmed up then go for a full blow out run of a reasonable distance using acceleration, gears, brakes, steering and suspension (good A or B roads, revs more than silly speeds). I recommend you fill with a couple tank fulls of the mentioned fuels before, during and after a service and/or MoT. A full service is for the whole car rather than just the engine and I've never seen one listed for a modern Skoda on here but it would include the obvious engine oil & oil filter change, sparkplugs, fuel filter as appropriate, and other stuff but important is checking brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres), brake fluid and all safety important electrics. Much servicing, maintenance and repairs can boil down to clean and lubricate (engine oil & filter, filters even spark plug replacement, hinges and door and window seals - the tickbox list for a "full" service could be very long or as long as you want it or are prepared to pay, the VWSkoda Dealership lists cover the minimum requirements with sometimes some unnecessary extras throw in for revenue and profit.

You might be right that one has darker windows than the other but you can't really go on different photos from different cameras under different lighting conditions, one appears to possibly have a reflection of flash, the other photo, to me, looks a lot flatter possibly without flash.

I'd go for something like the AA (EAN: 5060114614550). You want them thick enough for load and not overlarge clips otherwise they can be difficult to get on some vehicles because of the space available on the battery post clamps. Just an example supplier. - https://www.argos.co.uk/product/7847998 Do follow the AA guide to using them to be sure. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/using-jump-leads If you have a "dead" battery then you will also want to fully recharge it with an appropriate sized battery changer and maintainer (lower amperage better than higher amperage but takes longer, time and patience required and often out of stock with many people). Check your 'Owner's Manual' for jumping the car and charging the battery. Really you should borrow some appropriate jump leads as you should never really need them again with proper preventative use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, if it's someone else that has let the battery go flat then make them pay for the leads (unless it's your life partner then say nothing!).

This is a VW engine not a Honda. Most of the time I hear different noises at different times from the engine bay of my wife's Mk3 Fabia, I think it's the evil VW computer programs carrying on their ways so I ignore them, and ignore the rattle/squeaks from somewhere up front and underneath, and ignore the possible exhaust heatshield rattle, possible tyres or wheel bearing noises, my wife's car is a VW car not Honda too. The noises that annoy me are things like the metal water bottle clanging against other bits in the car because it's unsecured - but it's not my car so I just secure it and say nothing. Turn the radio on and depress yourself with national or international events or go on to one of the music stations and hope for stuff loud enough to cover the car noises, then there's often too many adverts, you just can't win!

As changing gear oil is normally a very inexpensive and reasonably easy job to do it wouldn't hurt but you might be better if it's possible and worth the effort to try to clean and lubricate any bit of the gear linkage yo can just to easy things. Are you sure it's the gears and not anything to do with the clutch sticking. either way actually driving the car some distance a few times over a few days getting the engine, gearbox everything else on the car thoroughly warmed and and operating should help to loosen everything up again. Personally prior to testing and use I'd lubricate anything I can, with GT85 as it's also a good penetrating/releasing fluid as well as lubricant that contain PTFE and works well on a wide range of materials and uses, and then operate what has just been lubricated a good number of times to work it in and work the item. Anything with an electric motor, like wiper and door windows I would have the engine running whilst operating to ensure full power and speed. You could also use the GT85 to lubricate the rubber side window strips that the door glass runs against when raising and lowering to also help. I'm not surprised about the battery or brakes but am about the gears (unless it's clutch) in only 5 months but we don't know any other history of the car and winters now tend to be milder and damper so condensation seems to be more prevalent in my experience where I am in the middle of the country.

That is good news but bear in mind not all accidents and repairs are reported so you still need to look at the vehicle in the metal to check for accident damage and repair and it could possibly be or involve very minor stuff like previously broken or missing trim.

Brake fluid, brakes, tyres. Check suspension. Air filter, cabin filter (fuel filter(?). Check battery and alternator. Air-con(?). Personally I'd clean the MAF sensor and run a couple of tankfulls of V-Power before, during and after the service. That's me out of ideas.

If it's a Mk 2 Fabia have look in that section of the site and/or post a thread there as it might get more notice from the posters there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk-ii/

Sellotape brand products are generally a bit more expensive but often much better than many cheaper copies, but I am not promoting German products as I get enough hassle from VW products! 🙃 https://www.sellotape.co.uk/en/history.html

Off-topic warning. - Only trying to help with English, not criticising as I struggle with English and it is my only language and you may well have different names to over here for items. I am not sure what you meant by Siam (Siamese cats are quite distinctive), Sellotape is a brand name product for usually a clear (transparent) tape on a cardboard roll, other makes will also be referred to as "Sellotape" even though they are not (same as many refer to vacuum cleaners as "Hoovers"). Sellotape was originally a British company but as with some many others no longer so, now owned by a German company apparently. I have never seen a black Sellotape, it would not be suitable for what Sellotape is usually used for where clear (or white perhaps) tape is used. Many "Duct tapes" or "Duck tapes" are often black. Decades ago we had a small young black cat adopt us, which did not please our own cat, but the black cat liked to wonder and was often found in other neighbours' homes and unknown to us had a second breakfast at the home of two old ladies across the road. As he was black and this being England we called him Chalky, chalk being white, the same way a chap who is short might be nicknamed Lofty (high up), from old Army days I think as with Chalky for those whose surname was White. ETA: Selotejp looks fantastic.

Thank you, I thought that was the case. I was surprised to see the the average brake force of the front and average of the back were almost exactly the same but that is good but I don't know how it was measured, we have two or three systems over here. But as you have found these figures do not tell the whole story. Sorry for the distraction.

I took that to mean there is 3% difference from one side to the other but that could be that both sides are braking well, poorly or in differently, with the 14% on the rears one side isn't working as well as the other - is that not what the % difference means?

ETA: nice going discovering it though Wait and see if it works first, and it might be different trim levels get different programing and different years got different hardware and software (wotever those are) - I'd ask pab57.

Sorry to hear about your write-off Graham. If Superbs are too expensive and/or high-mileage for what you want why not consider other models or makes and models. Perhaps with less toys (and computer programs) so less to go wrong in future and/or more reliable, less parts replacements/frequency and perhaps servicing vehicle model make/model. (If you got the VCDS I'm sure you could get you money back on selling it, if needed.) Now the others can advise on relative Superb models and mileages. Good luck, all the best to you.

Mike, SuperbTWM by coincidence the Update tonight on my neighbour's machine included the Demo mode in the 7 updates, 6 were downloaded and installed (wireless) in seconds but the one for Mercy Benz Maybach stretched to well over a minute. I don't know if this will help or hinder, give an idea or not, in DEMO the VW is a sample Toerag with just a couple of engine and lane assist codes as examples but I took a quick look, only saw Adaptive Cruise Control to get anything from as mealy an example. As the system's only on at tablet (I think they're called) at the moment and not laptop size screen it's too small for my eyes I didn't wade through the hundreds of possibly points of info and just took a couple of screenshots from the Adenoid, you'll need to download and zoom in for info, if it's of any use (BCM2).

OBDEleven possibly, certainly 'code' a battery change.

Spoken like a petulant early teenage boy who's forgot he swallowed a thesaurus previously. If you want to play with them bananas that's fine by me I know their potential locations, just don't go into whinging tears later, even if your gang-of-one has the aloe vera tissues to hand.