Former

I was wondering if the "glitters" might be stuck to to some other sort of granule debris but probably just "glitters". Or they might have sealed a leak - but if they're just spare they're out of the system now anyway, gone but not forgotten. 😄

My wife's 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI 90 engine bay makes all sorts of different noises at different times, I assume it's the VW computer programs doing their various good (or evil) operations but it's not quite as noisy as that (not that we have the bonnet open normally) and without so much of that high pitched whine. If it's the fuel pump or something like that then it doesn't sound good to me - what mileage is the car (having low mileage can sometimes be worse than having high mileage), my wife's cars is at 52,000 miles. As put what service, maintenance and repairs history do you have on the car, engine oil & filter changes are not even a full engine service let alone a full whole-car service. Again I don't know what the noise(s) are, others might be along that do, but I'd not accept that and be bouncing the car back to the dealer. This car (model) and cars in general, can have enough problems without starting with those you might have. Do not fall for the over hyped 'German engineering quality' being good, often now it isn't and that goes for the likes of VW VAG group of companies and BMW and Mercs, this ain't the last century.

Sod's Law. I've had it happen a couple of times over the decades with new and recent tyres. Only good side is once the replacement new tyre has lost its "grease" being only a couple of thousands of kilometres of wear newer it should be close enough to the other three as a set of four so just one tyre needed. I've no idea if it's allowed where you are but you could perhaps(?) plug that tyre and it be fine(?).

That is what I was thinking. Too late to know if the "glitters" were stuck to anything else but I'd not worry about it. Come the hottest weather and hottest driving you will find out for sure. I would think it most likely that any problem would more likely be from existing detritus already build up or inside the radiator, engine waterways, heater matrix, system generally, perhaps may be a sealant might add to the existing issue but I don't know, I would think the margins would have already had to be close to clogging up already. After the K-Seal had been added to my radiator I changed the radiator as I did not know its full history, that was a mistake as although the new (brass) radiator was supposed to have been a good replica it was not that well made and the swap made no difference to the cooling. I only changed as I cannot stand unexpected car problems, particularly when far from home and Sod's Law dictates that is when they often happen. As I put I would forget about it and carry on driving.

Turafalle in polvere per radiatori is powder leak stopper for radiators perhaps combined with coolant that creates some "glitters" again you could contact the manufacture. A breakdown service added K-Seal to my car's system as it got a leak to the radiator when I was far from home, it sealed the leak but later I notice dark brown or brass type (I forget which) "glitters" in the metal expansion tank. Your "glitters" might have been from either of those powder sealants, or even perhaps the Amsoil additive, or perhaps even a coolant, or a reaction from any combination. As everything else seems clear then perhaps these "glitters" have just come to the top of the system and residing in the expansion bottle. I'd not worry about it at all. Next coolant change if you wanted to you could not only drain the existing coolant but also perhaps clean and/or thoroughly flush, back-flush and flush again the whole system and thoroughly drain before refilling with fresh new coolant.

Yes stalk, wiring or connections. As put if you cab actuate the wiper with the scan tool it would put you a step forward with working it out. Except me you've got the right people here but I'll 'Report' the thread to get it moved to the Mk2 section. If you want you could add more info to your name plate, as mine only as an example.

What about the wiper switch.

Are you sure it is from the Amsoil additive (was it green in colour). If so then contact Amsoil showing the photos and ask them. Have you used any sort of coolant system sealer previously? As you probably know when changing different to coolants or additives it is best to clean and thoroughly flush, back-flush and flush again the whole system to get out as much existing residue as possible and even then unless you take the whole system apart and out of the car there will always be some residue left but hopefully very diluted by the cleaning and flushes. Even taking hoses, radiator and heater matrix out of a car it is hard to get everything out of the radiator I have found and the engine will still have some residue in it.

I think smaller battery capacity is less work perhaps for the alternator if it is old and tired but if the car and engine are not generally easier starters then bigger and more reserve might be useful especially if in cooler environments and/or greater electric consumption by the driver and perhaps passengers. Depending on cold starting I might go for a smaller battery and perhaps when required (well before it gets too low) top the battery up with the battery charger and maintainer and this battery could possibly (well) outlast the car.

Fuel economy is certainly one measure of performance but does E10 or E5 noticeably effect the driving performance for better or worse?

2.5 mm that will frighten many here in the UK they're unhappy with having to change at the legal limit here of 1.6mm across three-quarters of the tread. Your roads and their surfaces and your tyre compounds I suspect are different to here in the UK (well what road surfaces we have left) and of course climate, as I've seen before Aus tyre pressures being set a lot higher there than here. Being used to "classic" (over-priced and over-valued old) cars and their generally tight fisted owners it's not unusual to see "classic" with old hard tyres with loads of tread on them from age and lack of use over years or even decades so the owners that do (or have to) change to new tyres can find night to day changes. It can go the other way too with tyres swapping from worn but good performance tyres to new but not so good performance tyres and it can feel like two steps backwards even on a modest machine like a1987 Skoda Estelle 2 130. Many in the UK run 'summer' tyres all year round despite them losing performance below 10C (that could be an odd summer's day let alone the rest of the year here) but certainly in some parts of the countries (plural) if the driver is older it's what they experienced for many decades so are used to adjusting their driving to the prevailing conditions. It's good to have a real world review and promotion of possibly benefits of changing the tyres, much more important than fiddling or farting about with the engine.

So much for the Porsche thing, at least the RAC machine has given you a starting point. Get your magnifying glass out and full human senses diagnostics, eyes, touch, ears, nose, taste (some can also be used for detecting drinks and food breaks). Sod's Law whether you start at injector or battery ends it'll be nearer the other. Usual check all wires and connectors are clean, secure and protected and go from there. Good luck.

Fair enough, it's the only VIN I can think of, you plug a decent machine in and it finds the vehicle's VIN automatically, the one I borrow has IIRC 155 different vehicle manufacturers across the world many of which I've never heard of, last update was for a Maybach, being, German and Merc I bet there's a lot of very big update files just about every time one is worked on. For all I know with VW's very legacy system VIN could mean Volkswagen Inscrutable Numeric. Vin was always the bloke you avoided if he'd had a few drinks but I don't think VW knew of him. I've got a feeling a mate took a photo of the VIN plate on a car and got its info from that through his "smart" phone, if I remember I'll ask him when I see him Friday if that's right or I dreamt it. I've now gone as dim as a TocH lamp.

"DTC, short for Diagnostic Trouble Code, is a code used to diagnose malfunctions in a vehicle or heavy equipment." VIN I can only think refers to scanners that automatically pick up the vehicle's VIN - but I could be wrong, often am. 😉 You can see battery voltages too, but which tool to believe, the scanner, digital multimeter, battery charger and maintainer, alternator readings. 🤣 VCDS isn't the only fruit there are more user-friendly machines and programs about and IIRC(?) VCDS Light Not-as-Heavy Lite isn't that a free(?) App and £20 for a suitable non-genuine lead that covers most diagnostics and you can buy extra programming for fiddling with things or other stuff. All beyond me I've only borrowed a very simple and easy to use scanner - to sound horn for 1s or brake lights for 5s, press 'buttons' on screen, very old cars sometimes had to put the VIN in sometimes. Hope the light was bright enough, battery power's down a bit, alternator must be faulty. 😁

Hi, welcome, without further details it would be best you consult the 'Owner's Manual' / 'Operating Instructions' for your model and possibly reapply them via a menu possibly on the Infotainment screen. If you've not got the books you can get free Skoda PDF downloads or digital manuals from this link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Well you had a lot of fuel going through helping to cool. 😄 The others will know but I get the feeling I've read on here the/some(?) Fabia doesn't mind E10. For the amount you'll be saving in fuel costs you might want to throw in a couple of tankfuls of the (new) V-Power for its cleaning additive package before and after your blow out run.

Might just be the image, screen and my wonky eyes but the old plug appears salmon colour to me, have you used a fuel additive or cleaner or some special petrol at some point? I've next to no experience of farting about on cars but I've never seen a spark plug as worn as that but I'm from very old cars and changing the plugs every couple of years, or every year for those that can't be bothered to check, gap and clean as required.

You might as well get your money's worth out of that Halfords Advanced tool set. Forgot to put you cold at least test the brake fluid, and test the coolant, I think they still do the dipping paper tabs(?) or stick things(?) or borrow a reliable tester or risk very cheap testers. Despite the mpg the fact the car's been running shows how much they can put up with (which is also a downside if you get the car from someone who's taken too much advantage of this fact) so it gives plenty of potential perhaps to have it running so much better so easily. Get the car serviced and running well and then give it a good blowout run, not driving conservatively, and see how it is.

You are doing a better job than possibly that "full multipoint service". When the weather is a bit better it might pay you to consider doing a full inspection of the car and at least service the engine with oil and filter change and check the air filter. On a 13 year old car personally I would look at cleaning the MAF but I wouldn't use carb cleaner but MAF cleaner for the sake of a few quid extra and not risking and old sensor. If correct OEM parts are cheap enough sometimes they're worth just replacing if old but the quality of the replacement part must be considered otherwise you could be swapping not too bad for bad. Also cleaning the throttle body (or whatever anyone wants to call it) again with the correct throttle body cleaner, again why worry about a few quid if you're already wasting your life farting about with a car. Because of the technology the basics are often forgotten on cars but without the basics attended to there's not fully success with the technology and much of car servicing, maintenance and repairs often boils down to the very basics of cleaning, lubricating - and when required replacing parts.

Assuming the new plugs are the correct type and correctly gapped the change looks very worthwhile to me. Like a lot of parts and components on the car they can continue to operate well beyond their optimum or when they should be reasonably attended to, part of servicing is prevention of taking things too far past this point. As with a lot of warnings the car gives by the time you get them you're well passed the point you want to take action. The computer can keep things going well passed the optimum and into the not so good. You can rely on your own senses (literally) as much as, and sometimes more often, than the car's various systems at 20mpg you know something isn't right. A full service isn't just attending to the basic engine servicing it's attending to the car as a whole but we realise you were referring to the engine servicing which I would have thought with a s/h car new to you would have included at an inspection of the plugs if not change. Don't rely on the car to have push buttons and messages to sort everything. Brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres) are much more important than the engine so they are my priority on a car new to me - and a good battery. I'm sure you'll see some improvements from this basic bit of servicing, let us know how you get on.

A lot of drivers don't realise what a complex component the tyre(s) are and their overall contribution to braking, steering, road holding, handling, ride noise and comfort. They also forget the effects of age and driving and parked up conditions and environments. Many, in the UK at least, think as long as the tyre tread is above the bare minimum legal limit that's all that matters.

Just to be sure, (amber) glow plug light? You would hope they have high enough level diagnostics but that doesn't mean that will pinpoint the issue(s) and they don't do repairs as such. You have to look at the home start contract to see what it covers and provides but as has already been put someone plugging in a suitable scan tool. And/or perhaps further information from you to here might get you some more diagnosis but bear in mind the limitations of dealing with such over posts on a thread.

Do I take it you do not live in the UK as the link is not in English. Looks very much like you might need a new battery. That is not good about the current battery or charger but the clamps in the photos look reasonable quality so as long as the negative clamp and wire connection is still sound you can carry on with it and it will be a good reminder to you about batteries and chargers. From the little I can make out the charger is 3 amps which means it will take more time to fully recharge a battery but to me that is a good thing. The link show 26Ah to 90Ah so it should have done your current 65Ah if the battery was fully functioning. Note the "Ambient temperature: 0-40 Celsius" if you are somewhere at -20C. This charger will be fine should you need or want to use it on your new battery, I think you may find lots on the car seems better when the new battery is fitted. Wait and see how things are when you fit the new battery, as you have already found the car battery and its condition and health is very important to the car, always has been but even more so now there are so much electrics and computer stuff on cars. I take it by your battery choice your car is not a start/stop.

How are you calculating this figure, what is a full tank and empty tank to you? Have you changed the plugs, cleaned the MAF, throttle body? Is the car standard, standard wheels, tyres,? Where are you driving, how are you driving?

Your best bet might be to get the use of a higher level scan tool suited to VWs to help with diagnostics whilst at the same time or before look for poor connections or wiring for the electrics and computer. The drop to 7V on cranking didn't sound good for the battery or perhaps main connections or perhaps thin wires to parts, earths. When exactly was the glow plug symbol flashing in the sequence of key in ignition and trying to start?