Former

MTL is 75w80 (GL-4) MT-85 is 75w85 (GL-4) MT90 is 75w90 GL-4 From their catalogue - "Red Line formulates full-synthetic oils and advanced additives using the world’s finest base stocks. Rather than cutting costs by blending in petroleum products, Red Line’s high-performance oils use superior PAO and ester base stocks that provide extreme stability at high temperatures and superior film strength at lower viscosities where more power can be produced." https://www.redlineoil.com/gear-oil-for-manual-transmissions

Thanks but do bear in mind that is just my opinion. Personally I'd use something like Redline and do a thorough changes at 5 to 7 years or 60,000km, whichever is the sooner. Good luck.

If they're a Dealership don't they just plug in a Dealership level bi-directional scan tool and just try to 'actuate' the boot lock and work back from there as diagnosis(?). Someone on the list might have a scan tool capable of doing this test for less than £100 I'd have thought. I'm more used to cars where the boot lock is just mechanical but now you have also the electric and computer sides to consider. You can use your diagnostic ears to see if you can hear what's happening or not at the boot lock area and with the boot open you can do a visual check on the lock, sometimes these actions can help with repair or diagnosis before more expensive machinery is required. Best of luck, let us know how you get on.

If it's not too late - or for other viewers. - If it's a 'coding' thing then you might have more luck asking in the Diagnostics & VCDS section, as below. Presumably the other side is wired up with a bulb in it(?). https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

Good that you've got one, remind your daughter to read the instructions on the can (hold can upright, shake well before use) and to always replace the cap and straw on to the can (good to learn from the mistakes of others). I find with folding the mirrors in best is a swift movement but you don't need to be trying to knock the car sideways, a very occasional spray of GT85 and she should find the mirrors fold easily enough. The door mirrors on my wife's car are very rarely folded in so when I have I've forgotten the passenger side until I'm sat in the car.

They were three cans for £10 at Wilco. And I have paid £2 a can but can't remember from where, I got two cans, gave one away to a neighbour and with the other I forgot to put the cap back on and it had just about emptied itself being wedged in the side of a plastic box I was using to transport the items I needed to do a little job somewhere as a favour to a mate, if only I'd let him pack away the stuff I could have blamed him. 😄

Try cleaning the mirror housings first particularly underneath and when they're pushed in clean any exposed bits of the plastic arm. Once clean or at least free from grit and debris spray with GT85 (better in all things than WD-40 Multi-Use) contains PTFE and smells nice, useful for lots of things on the car and home and garage. - https://gt85.co.uk/

Thefeliciahacker has already put 2 years is fine and "maybe extend it to 3 years in order to cover some more distance". My opinion is you can change the oil at anytime to your preference or convenience at or between 3 and 5 years.

I would use common sense and previous experience of driving the vehicle - or I could use stated mph per 1,000 rpm per gear. It's my understanding that not everyone sees all of them and I only started using the prefix and its reinforcement to try to keep my troll away a bit and as someone else thought my posts appeared too authoritative I thought it best to warn those that might not know or realise. As you've asked politely, despite your current and previous pedentry (careful Keith there's a deliberate trap and wind-up there 😉 ) I will edit the post, and drop the reinforcing.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeah "contaminants" was used out of habit and for those with English as a second (or more) language I didn't think my more usual crud, debris, grit, ****, muck was appropriate but what is the best word to use? As the exiting oil doesn't come out after many years of use as fresh oil but with the additives worn, oxidised and perhaps bits of metal what to call that in one simple word? Oils have improved in the last 20 years let alone from the 1960s and 1970s but IIRC (I didn't with the change interval) we've already been through alternative oils, if available to Mustafa, in a previous thread.

Well it's off the net so could be a period typo and "Hypoid" shouldn't be there or it might just be a fake altogether. ETA: I'll remove it to avoid confusion on the subject.

@varooom Yes thanks. I didn't think they touched the battery more that they may have (or may not have needed to) perform some sort of error, sorry improvement, of the excellent German(?) engineering IT programming. Just because my troll and others think I'm a total idiot don't think that I necessary am (though I might be and am deluding myself but I'm not sure I've ever completed anything including being an idiot). If you can give me access to TPI 2050304 I'd be interested to see what that is. I'm not sure if my wife's car's BCM control unit was reprogramed or not, it's her car (of choice, though she regrets it somewhat now) not mine so I only get given the bits to deal with that she'd sooner not, despite having me for a life (so far) partner she's not stupid and has seen how much you (or one, if posh) can suffer with and from the (UK) motor trade (and personally knowing friends and acquaintances in the English motor trade, and IT) .

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As far as I know or can remember we do not normally see such on gear oils here. Normally the oil company or blender will refer you to the car manufacturers' servicing guides. Compared to America the UK and Europe are the 'Wild West' when it comes to oil changes but we might not be so wedded to oil as the Americans who are used to very low prices and using it as if it's going out of fashion and taking steps to secure it's cheap availability to them in the same way very wealthy countries without too much water "help" countries with fertile ground or China helps countries with monetary loans and building infrastructures at cost and interest to those countries for what China wants (to take) from them. a bit like the British and other Empires before them. ☺️ MG Bs specified gearbox oil changes at 24,000 miles or 24 months whichever was the sooner, but they used engine oil in the gearboxes which I would suggest was less robust in that use than a gear oil. Like the BBC (British Broadcasting Corporation) I am here to Inform, educate, entertain, but this is the internet so what can you trust and believe. 🙃 All I can say is (if I am being truthful (?)) - I am not in or part of the motor trade, so take or leave as much as you want from whatever I post or part of of a post I put up. ETA: removed BL Technical Service Bulletin to keep more to subject.

toot, I get what you're saying, just how official or proper things are done, or not done, my wife got some sort of message, neither of us can remember what or how, to take her car to the Dealership on a special one off visit (nearly two month before the service) for something that I recorded on my record as a "Battery Recall". What the exact term or wording was at the time, whether the communication was from the local Dealership or Skoda UK, I don't remember, and don't have records or evidence other than the digital record shows "Recall 97CU". We might not agree on oversized wheels and tyres or silly VW oil spec but we will agree on the negative side of the UK motor trade as I've had the equivalent a whole group of poorly and badly treated customers. There was some sort of recall (Recall?) related to something related to batteries at some point, if it relates BlueTigger's daughter's car I don't know but I'd check in case it's required as at least it should be free. And of course it relates to my obsession of car batteries in VWSkodas. ☺️ More relates there than the signage changes from the Marriage Guidance Council.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Lloyd, hi, welcome, if you fully read and when required refer to the 'Owner's Manual' for your car you will then know more about it than many long term owners and some at garages. A tip with these cars is to keep the car battery from getting into a low state of charge, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are not yet any warning lights or messages the car battery can still be in a low enough state of charge to upset the computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues. Just driving the car is not always enough to keep the car battery in a good state of charge and some owners find the use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer can help with charging or better still prevent issues from a low battery. I think these handy videos feature a 2017 model and give info (much of it also in the Owner's Manual'), they reminded me of some things I'd forgotten I'd read in the 'Owner's Manual'. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. We all(?) sometimes forget what gear we are in but a quick glance at the dials for speed and revs should tell us if we are in an appropriate gear for the conditions.

Must be something in the water here! ☺️ 60,000 kilometers = 37282.282 miles according to Google, I rounded it to 37,000 miles for the sake of an easy figure in miles for those used to kilometers and not miles. In (UK) "old money" it would be 36,000 miles as that would be a usual (old) service point when services were at whichever was soonest arrived at mileage interval or time interval. 6,000 miles / 6 months, 12,000 miles / 12 months, 24,000 miles / 24 months and 36,000 miles / 36 months (or sometimes 30,000 miles / 3 years). So I would put 60,000 km as being equal to 36,000 miles or 3 years - at 4,000 km per year @Mustafa_Samir will be soonest at a 3 year interval than a 60,000 km interval.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have you checked your 'Owners Manual', from a 2017 (same as ords linked to) there's lots more info in it too, free VWSkoda PDF copy available for download from following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models See from your photo below, there's a crescent shaped slit in the trim material where you put the screwdriver through and arc up as in "Fig. 350". Try that first as it very cheap and easy to try and could easily work. I thought toot and others have put its £60 to plug in the diagnostics scan tool, well that's what the tool should be used for as a tool for diagnostics not "here's an error code so this part needs replacing". Even IF it didn't lock because of some error it would probably shut as that part of it is mechanical. Last month I open a neighbour's boot where a bag strap had got caught, that just required pulling a lever and using a bit of brute force (not a lot as I don't have much anyway). I used a diagnostic tool - my head - my eyes and brain (what's left if it and I didn't much before). If you're worried about a scan tool diagnostics you could see if you have a site member near you (where ever that is) that is willing to plug in a scan tool to check for error codes for this (or other stuff), I'm sure they'd ask a lot less than £100, see this link for map. - https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk Finally a video, MK2 but still applies, and more handy hits that might also apply in other videos. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry you have put this before but I forgot, and will probably forget again. 60,000 km is 37,000 miles so is that three years use or more?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As I put I doubt there is an interval in time or distance,* some might say 10 years or more, or 100,000 km or more. I like to do oil changes on a vehicle but even I would think three years with a mineral oil is fine, or up to 5 years, the thoroughness of the oil change will make a difference too. * ETA: I am wrong, again, (and I must have forgot, again) see D.FYLAKTOS's post - "Skoda says every 60.000 Km".

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back, I'll remove that video. Always difficult to see black on black. Any idea what caused the blockage? Good to know, very fantastic plastic then, thanks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. toot, there might not be a battery recall for 2016 cars but there was some sort of action on batteries because when I bought the battery for my wife's car it was high priced at the time and someone here pointed out VW had problems with batteries and that might be the reason. (Yes I know, hard to believe VW German engineering quality with problems. 😆) The battery is still lower cost now than when I bought it in June 2021 but perhaps there were other reasons for it's higher cost then, I don't know. I have listed a "Battery Recall" in the records for my wife's car as that's what I was told but on investigation now getting the info from the records for the car and a thread on here it's as follows. Recall 97CU vgnils put (15-3-2018) - " I looked into this the other day in erWin. This is what it says: "Technical background For Škoda vehicles of a certain production period the energy management of the vehicle battery has been optimised. Remedy On the affected vehicles the onboard supply control unit must be reprogrammed (see criterions)."" RickW had previously put (15-3-2018) - " . . . All I remember was the service manager muttering something about the battery and I left it with them. I suppose I could ring them but I wondered if anyone else has had it. My Fabia was built in January 2016." My wife's car was made April 2015. I'll alter my records to "Battery management Recall" but as the error or difference in programing that might have affected the battery life so perhaps some where changed, I don't know ours certainly wasn't and I don't know if anything was done to the car and can't remember the details now of how my wife was notified I don't even know if her car should have been part of the recall group only that the Dealership had it in and Recall 97CU is on the digital records. My wife certainly doesn't take her car to the Dealership for the sake of going there. 😀 First and only thread I looked at for info. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You should really show your daughter how to do these things as she's a driver and to empower her. My wife went on a short, basic car maintenance course at the local college decades back, but whilst I'm around it's my job. Do just check the battery at the start as you never know what previous owners and the selling garage have done with it, only recently there was a chap that had to replace the battery soon after getting the car as the car had just been sitting around before. For that thread I done a test on my wife's car as it was at home that morning. Hadn't been driven for a couple of hours (since the evening before really) unlocked the car, very quickly took a reading before the electric whirls and clicks and then took another reading about 35 minutes later having left the car locked and bonnet open and it was 0.2V higher.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. For a manual gearbox particularly I doubt there would be a gearbox oil change interval and some people would never bother changing in decades of vehicle use. - ETA: I am wrong, again, (and I must have forgot, again) see D.FYLAKTOS's later post - "Skoda says every 60.000 Km". Someone else here might know if there is a service interval for the Felicia gearbox. - ETA: as above! Personally I think useless you have extremes of driving or climate then 5 (or more) years would be fine. Better quality oils, usually synthetic, usually provide wider and longer lasting protection especially in extremes so would last longer so longer change intervals. As important as the oil change interval is the thoroughness of the oil change to get as much of the existing oil and contaminants out as possible so that as much new fresh oil can go back in meaning the new fresh oil is diluted less by the residue of existing oil and contaminants that are left in the gearbox. There is always residue of existing oil and contaminants left in the gearbox unless the gearbox is removed from the vehicle and completely striped down, the aim is to leave as little as possible in, a quick careless oil change will leave a lot more residue of existing oil and contaminants than most people realise. For the oil change get the oil as warm (hot) as possible so that more existing oil and contaminants comes out of the gearbox and easier, if drain leave to drain for as long as possible and sensible. If draining I personally add a little new fresh and warmed oil (warmed by the sun often) to the gearbox at the very end of the drain and allow that to drain through as a sort of final little flushing. If I remember correctly you really look after your car so you might want to look at the likes Redline oil or similar better synthetic oil, available in GL-4 if that is your preference. I do not know what oils companies/blenders are reasonably available to you Mannol may well have one suitable if you enquire with them.

ETA: - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Perhaps , if you want to, you could edit in to your OP a hyperlink to that map/list of VCDS owners who offer help such as 'coding' batteries for those without VCDS, ODIS or similar other battery 'coding' facilities. I struggle to find the list or this thread as I can't see a way to make them a favourite/bookmark/go-to on this site. Cheers.