Former

When new parts are fitted especially unknown quality parts by someone unknown they'd be near the top of my suspect list. If a bodger (professional or not) has done the work he might have damaged or not correctly dealt with something else in the area of the new parts fitted. Does the noise vary with speed or any other circumstances, going down a pothole/over a speed hump, turning, etc.? Are you sure it's from the rear?

Anyone any idea why this part is so short lived?

Town traffic commute or dual/motorway commute? Just driver or passengers and/or heavy work stuff? My wife is passed middle-age and she was given a Corsa courtesy car once and said it could hardly make it up the hills coming back and we're very used to "low" powered cars, they never offered it her again after she moaned about it.

Thanks, I was thinking your grid was fitted higher up and was wondering about it getting wet. I thought you might be going with some stuff like you are by the use of the hooks on your grid (otherwise you could have sandwich plate grid but more work and materials. I wonder how much air and air movement the stuff might block, road trials required.

Back on subject before the Thread Police get here - It might pay you and the car the to go on a blow out the cobwebs run and where safe to do so give the car a bit more movement and perhaps (sensible) harder braking to loosen things up a bit. Also if you only do short round town stuff it can lower the state of charge of your battery and the computers do not like that, not saying it's necessarily anything to do with your current issue, but a low battery can give all sorts of unexpected issues on these cars, just look at some of the threads here. Check your battery and use a battery charger if required, just driving the car isn't always enough to get the battery full up.

To do this I just highlighted the sentences and a green background box appears with 'Quote selection' but then the 'Quote' button also works if I want the whole post. - So perhaps there are other limits to non-FREEDOM too.

See my edit of my post yesterday at 10:04 - FREEDOMLITE seems to give unlimited editing (as well as other benefits).

Another derailment (! ?). 🤣 "Three wheels on my wagon . . ." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1pFTSQfmhU

I think your grid looks great and think it's very good of you to offer it out. I was also thinking of those without your facilities and materials might just be able to fit that filter, but I don't know as I don't know the model. Trim and new edge would be the limit of my capabilities, if I couldn't achieve a (forced) interference fit. Looking again, if it's a paper filter and exposed to rain it would need other material to protect it if used on the grid or if there's drainage to the chamber the grid sits on and the paper filter is tucked to the side, away from your grid, then the grid and filter would be two stages of filter, grid for larger debris and to help prevent blockage of drain and filter to, er, further filter. So possibly the Mann filter isn't so good with the grid, that might be better with other filter material but for those without the grid the Mann filter might be a solution. If you have access to some light denier stockings or tights you could try that for a filter screen, if you don't cut them they can be returned if they don't work and no one need know. 😄

Could you perhaps get the Mann CU 3935 (Cabin Air Filter, 388 x 143 x 19) to fit either newly made grid or in standard housing. - https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Cabin Air Filter/CU 3935

Some old fuel gauge systems without computer program interference help could be accurate and modern car swing needle gauges can be accurate, perhaps over certain parts of the range if not all sometimes, so you need to know your car and it's fuel gauge accuracy range. The lit bars fuel gauges and computer program miles ranges need the application of common sense and a bit of guesswork.

Whilst the two batteries are disconnected and off the car do take the chance to fully recharge them, you don't want a low charged battery messing and hindering your diagnosis and progress.

Many people mislay or can't find where they've stored the spare key/remote so an easy way round this is to rotate, in whatever way or time suits, the use of both keys/remotes, that way you should always know where the second key/remote is and that it recently or fairly recently worked. It also evens out the wear and battery changes on the keys/remotes so you should be more aware of when battery changes are needed and don't get caught out with a worn battery in the second key/remote when needed.

@ScottB832 battery is always one of my first thoughts, for issues and problem solving, a battery and its connections in a good state and charge will help with resolving starting and electrical issues and a battery and connections in a poor state will hinder. Often recharging (or replacing if required) a battery will resolve many issues much beyond what many people expect, especially with computer laidened cars like VWs. I'm not saying your problem is the battery but a low state of charge might or won't help.

You can ignore my suggestions now and follow Breezy-Pete's last post.

So charging system, possibly hence new battery, I'll leave you with an expert. ETA: Another of my cross posts.

You don't get much charging at idle and some multimeters aren't that accurate or consistent, try turning your headlights and blower fan on full at idle and see what readings you get.

@Steviehaythe battery is just an energy store and even if it's new it can be depleted, take the advice you have been given. New batteries generally tend to be very good and very reliable and the faults come from the vehicle (or often vehicle owner but I'm not suggesting this in your case). Figures from my neighbour's Ring battery charger/tester. - 12.7v - 100% 12.5v - 90% 12.4v - 80% 12.3V - 70% 12.2v - 60% 12.1v - 50% 11.9v - 40% 11.8v - 30% 11.6v - 20% 11.3v - 10%

If you have been only putting in very small amounts of fuel and keeping the tank very low perhaps and/or the car sits for long periods, something has got stuck. You could try putting in a noticeably larger quantity of fuel and/or perhaps (where safe to do so) giving the car and fuel in the tank a lot of movement but you'll possibly find just by putting noticeably more fuel in and driving normally that at some point you turn the ignition on and the fuel gauge needle moves higher (or even pings) and and the computer figures go back to how they used to be before. The fuel range figures should not be relied on and only used instead of you doing simple maths to get an estimate, both could be accurate or well out depending on changing circumstances.

@JohnnyZenith do not put all your faith in to computer figures and readings, especially from the likes of VW, think of these things as "gauges" rather than "accurates". Get used to where the figures or gauge needles usual show in the different circumstances for what is usual for your car. ETA: FREEDOMLITE seems to give unlimited editing (as well as other benefits). Second edit as I forgot the full stop on the end of above ETA.

Yes the £6 FREEDOM LIte gives editing, unlimited as far as I can tell. ETA: this is added 22 hours after post.

Not necessarily but as you know diesels are particularly dirty so it pays to keep them clean by timely servicing and cleaning of engine oil and filter, air filter, and perhaps now and again putting some "city" diesel in rather than always the cheapest you can possibly get. If you clean the MAF do buy the correct (MAF) cleaner for the job and take care with the cleaning - but do also look at the air filter (compared to a clean new one) and see if the air filter box and tubes are reasonably clean and clear. See also possible causes. - "Faulty mass air flow sensor Intake air leaks Dirty mass air flow sensor Dirty mass air filter Mass air flow sensor harness is open or shorted The MAF Sensor is unplugged or the wiring is damaged Loose or corroded electrical terminals in the MAF Sensor circuit Faulty MAF sensor" https://www.carpm.in/codes/dtcs/p0103-mass-or-volume-air-flow-circuit-high-input HTH. Further info. -

Whatever the cause it certainly needs sorting, it might just be a coincidence that you've put new tyres on (the front) but something that might be free and easy for you to try is swapping the rear tyres to the front to see if this makes any difference. You sound like you're old enough and experienced enough to know to take it easy on new tyres for the first about100 miles (200 if wet) and check the wheel bolts torque after the first 30 miles or so. I too wonder about the new tyres in relation to the previous tyres and the rear tyres still fitted, it maybe that we're giving your new tyres an undeserved questioning but mixing old and new and different make, model and types of tyres can give unexpected results. Tyres are an often overlooked and under valued complex component on a vehicle.

Hi, welcome, reading, and when required referring to, the Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) will give you lots of information, you'll know more than many long term owners. It'll tell you about the coding/programing Keith Cheetham refers to. If you've not got the printed paper copy you can download a pdf version off the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

@26DIPPI still disagree, I don't think it'd be a good idea for a young inexperienced driver as out of gear gives less control over the vehicle and incidents can happen in seconds or less and inexperience may increase the reaction time. That wasn't me but the engine and transmission are sapping some power whilst also controlling the vehicle and yes it is part of slowing the vehicle to slow or stop the vehicle. That's a wide ranging figure where did you get it from, if the car's display I'm not sure the instruments are that accurate and if such figures are within the parameters of the range of accuracy for the instruments or computer programing - but you or others may know where I don't. Some VW figures seem to lie more than 'The Donald' at a round of golf or Presidency. 🙂 From another (much overrated) German marque. - "When your car is coasting it still requires a small amount of fuel in order to power the engine. This is called ‘idling’ and is the same at any point your engine is running but that you are stationary. However, when you remain in gear and travel without your foot on the accelerator, electric sensors will detect that the accelerator isn’t engaged and will automatically cut fuel to the injector. Because the wheels are still connected to the engine (as is not the case in neutral or with the clutch depressed), they keep the engine running without the need for fuel." - https://www.mercedes-benzsouthwest.co.uk/blog/are-you-coasting-towards-more-repairs I realise you weren't referring to coasting downhill but @MPGwatcher may remember Rule 122 of the Highway Code (and no I didn't know it was Rule 122, not sure they had Rules the last time I read a copy of the Highway Code). - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-highway-code/general-rules-techniques-and-advice-for-all-drivers-and-riders-103-to-158 In my car, from 1973, for fuel economy it would pay me to coast to a stop as long as I wasn't using the clutch more than the gear changing I would have done and wearing out the release bearing more (especially with a non-synchro 1st gear).