Former

I'd never heard of OCA. 😄 I can't remember details now but I think it was the one-click operations could balls-up the operation of that particular item, which I suppose could be quite serious depending on what it was /did. Might also be related to me disliking the look of the ancient nerdy, legacy, looking presentation of VCDS with it's long winded processes. Yes there might be joy in remembering what's where in all the different screens and boxes and fun and adventure of finding your way through but I've not got the best memory and never played computer games or done programming or any good at maths, all my detriment (well perhaps not the computer gaming) and those that can and enjoy it I'm happy for them but I prefer things simple and quick with computers and cars. If it ain't on a mouse right-click menu I'll probably forget how to get it done. Plus I'm not good at reading, writing, data entry, recognising errors in numbers, I confuse opposites - but apart from that . . . 😄 The one thing I would like possibly released from restraint by the computer program is to have the window winders live without the need for key in and ignition on (I prefer hand crank anyway, less weight, less to go wrong) as I can't stand getting into a parked car with solar heated cabin to high temperature and no fresh air. It used to be you never needed to lock a Škoda. 😄

Personally I don't trust something just because it's got a Bosch badge or label on it but no doubt some Bosch stuff is good and if you have tested it and it's OK then fine. You could test again to make sure it remained fine. Yes of course changing the distributor might have caused an issue or highlighted an existing issue, that might be the new part showing up the old parts(s) or (visa-versa) or you could have disturbed something in doing the change. There was a fault or issue before the change though. When changing parts did you check are connections were clean, secure and protected, same for wires, no pins corroded or with stuff on them or bent or broke, a slight bit of crud can make all the difference. I'm not an electrician or mechanic or expert in anything so I possibly not know much take more caution and perhaps care than those those that know more (which is most). On my older cars with more basic ignition systems I would also check spark plugs, HT leads (more naughty spray test than resistance reads) the rotor arms and perhaps dissy caps could cause all sorts of issues. Very rarely, unless new, would the (single, old style) coil play up. Then of course there was the voltage regulators and for some the alternator. I forget the details of the type of ignition system on your car, the others have told and explained it to me but I've not retained the info (without a photo to look at). Like all the other parts the ignition amplifier module, or its connections or wires, could be faulty but all things need to be checked and tested rather than just suspected, unless a part(s) are so inexpensive and trustworthy you don't replace them for the sake of it (a mate changes spark plugs every annual service as he gets them at such a low price). He would swap a (single old style) coil as they are low priced and difficult to check for full consistent reliable function in use (unless you have a dyno or meters you can wire up whilst driving the car), of course the risk is new modern made parts being worse than worn old parts. I have often found it is the simple basic items that have been overlooked that were or are the cause - not always of course and I'm not saying any of these in your case - but a number of times I've been told "no it won't be that" or "that's new" or "I've checked that" (HT leads used to be a favourite, I was even caught out myself by them). One way to help check new parts is to refit the old part and see what if any difference it makes, perhaps to test readings too.

ETA: Just been posting about OBDeleven (I use the letters instead of numbers to save confusion with OBD2 at a quick look/glance/read) I have seen some scan tool users post caution against the use of one-click how do you find OBDeleven for one-click programming/use, has it balls'd anything up for you?

@lewiswal47 have the following pdfs for some delightful reading (note how far back they're from). Same as engine (and transmission) oil, for battery and battery charging there are camps of beliefs, sometimes strongly held. SSP-234-Vehicle-batteries.pdf SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf

On cars going back this far (and newer/latest models) you do need to check the machine, which ever one, has the program on it for your car and that the program works, or works as much as you want or need. Some makes and models of scanner may work better than others for your particular car, even within the same manufacturer's range of scanner models, all have errors and omissions. Those that do professional diagnostics may have several scan tools they use for various makes, models and years of cars, unless they rely on one and that will cost more than £1,000. Do you mean OBDeleven? - https://obdeleven.com/features?Skoda I have seen some members cautio about using some of the one-click features but I don't know if, or how much, this applies to OBDeleven but I doubt there is too much you can do on a 2000 Felicia. Isn't there a factory workshop manual showing the wiring to the OBD port?

Check earth cables, wires and connections from battery, engine, dash dials, also check the battery terminal posts and inside terminal post clamps are clean, then they are tight to posts. God to start with clean secure supply from battery. After that it could be a connection or wire, I don't know the wire for the tach but ignition issues seems a reasonable suggestion, it might often be accompanied by other signs though, check from spar plugs, back (or from ignition switch to plugs if you prefer). Might just be a dirty or "dry" connection to dial. Long term Favorit (or Felicia) owner's would know more and better, perhaps it's common issue now, or perhaps not. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Earlier years were a bit of a wild west, well east for Europe comparted to USA, different systems and leads/plugs/sockets but with the standard 16-pin "port" socket and plug things are usually sorted by the modern machines as long the appropriate program for the make, model and year of car is on the machine and it'll get generic basic stuff. How much that actually tells you is a different matter, sometimes just stating the "bleedin' obvious" but that could be conformation perhaps. We pay well over the odds for all machines compared to USA, bigger market I expect.

Yes but the "smart" alternator doesn't do too much when the engine's not running, and when the engine's not running electric power comes from the battery which after all is one of it's jobs but a 2020 VW will have a list of possible electric stuff as long as my short arms and legs combined some, much, could be being used whilst waiting stationary. I was meaning the 5v reference for the little darlings, checking all's tickety-boo.

All the "services" now don't really service the engine let alone the whole car with the more important systems like brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics, (lights, wipers, blower horn, etc.), windows and mirrors (and reflective number plates) - see and be seen. The "maintenance" schedule fills in a few missing bits with engine and rest of the car. Lots of short journeys doesn't help the engine much if the engine oil isn't getting warm enough, you want to be at say 90c engine oil temperature for a little while at least. Better to have your dash set so you can see the engine oil temperature rather than relying on the coolant gauge that's biased to show 90c before and after actually being 90c. For the battery charging short journeys, particularly with more use of all the various bits on the car the car and driver and passenger(s) use will eventually help to deplete the battery's store sometimes to a point that upsets the car's computer systems. As it's (usually) so simple hands off (clean hands too) work to put a battery charger maintainer on the car to fully recharge the battery. If the battery is particularly low it can take many hours to recharge so overnight and a second or third session may be necessary, depending on how long can be given each time. But it's the easiest work on a car. This is my wife's car one cold winter's night, I was inside warm and doing anything other than farting about with a car and a lot of the time asleep in bed. IIRC it took 14 hours with a 4-amp charger maintainer connecting on "winter" (5c and below) setting at lowest -4c that night, plus about another hour or so next day as the car had to be used for the very short journey to and from work interrupting the battery getting to full (or 'FUL' on that charger). And the battery wasn't even that low, just prevention.

69% health still needs a good level of state of charge, a brand new battery can be "flat" - but in my mind a 2020 VW car is even more of a candidate for electric/electronic, computer systems/program issues. Program updates? I always promote preventative car battery charging, very occasionally full recharging with appropriate charger maintainer or as required, prevention is better than cure and that way you should get better and (much) longer useable service from the battery and not become a statistic in the No. 1 cause of recovery breakdown callouts. Of course we haven't covered if the car has had full and timely "service" and "maintenance" as per VW's schedule (minimal though they are), has the car had all its annual engine oil and filter changes done on time/distance, engine air filter changed (and perhaps airbox and ducting cleaned), a good possibly for issues have the spark plugs been changed. I think it's 2019 Fabias with the throttle bodies that play up, might be 2020, I forget, and it might depend if early or late 2020. But it might just be a one-off. If it happens again as already put a full scan tool health report might help plus if possible live data can be very useful. For best results your friend's reader/scan tool does need to have a program on it appropriate to VW and your model and year (or VIN) and this program should be up to date before use on your car (some folk are too lazy to bother) and a reasonable state of charge on the car's 12v battery is required, and if appropriate a reasonable state of charge to the scan tool battery, otherwise out of date programs and low battery charge(s) can give spurious readings and results. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

I don't know as I've never noticed the parts but really with bits like this often where there's a will there's a way. Most garages do very little, if anything, for free but I'm sure if you put the car into them they would order and fit any new parts required at cost of new parts and labour. As I put for enlarged bolt (screw) holes the use of appropriate washers, and then perhaps for other broken areas more washers, bolts (screws) or holes and appropriate length cable-ties (zip-ties) or appropriate tape or bits of bridging plastic or other materials, slotted bar if you want posh and extra sturdy. There are lots and lots of different types of fasteners for cars and other stuff available. You could use new and/or recycled parts and materials and it needn't be a scruffy finish. Thing is one piece of plastic holding other(s) can often act as bracing for others making the whole structure more sturdy, and not flapping about. It might all be fine with out the replacement part fitted but personally I'd sort out some kind of fitting, especially if I'd bought a new part and more so if I couldn't get a refund on the new part if not fitted. Do you know any handy men or women that can get two or three bits of plastic to hold together, and remain easily removeable. Personally I'd much prefer a garage or mechanics, technicians, auto-electricians that are women.

My stalking troll and other insisted the car 12v battery wouldn't do this as the alarm has it's own battery, failing to fully appreciate the alarm and other computer systems on the car. I warned a Porker owner in the club about this many years back as his neighbours weren't too keen about the car alarm going off at 3 am. Then next year's tour another Porker owner with same thing, suggested 12v car battery to him too. And 10 years ago I was helping push a different newish Porker as the battery was totally down because the owner didn't want to pay the (overpriced) cost of a Porker "dedicated" 12v battery from Porker pens - but he should have known better being a long time Westfield owner. I've never owned a Porsche myself.

Not usually dodgy battery but one that has been perhaps over used, abused or neglected. Doesn't take very long or much effort to check the state of charge of the battery and whilst doing that check the battery post terminal and terminal post clamps are clean and tight, check main earths and connections are also clean and tight. If battery needs charging then a good long drive without using much electrics or better still a full, long, low, recharge using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's manual' and instructions for charger maintainer. VWŠkoda website for "virtual"(?) 'Owner's manual'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models You are dealing with German (over?) complex and (over?) intwined computer systems and programs on the car that will have errors and omissions, "glitches" and updates in the programming and computers can have brain-farts as we know. If your car is a late 2020 perhaps Covid and chip shortages might also apply< i forget dates and details now. The computer system run on 5v which is thin so if battery is low, but headlights can still seem bright enough and engine starts, the computers can throw up all sorts of warnings, lights, (error codes) and issues, loads and loads of threads and posts on this problem on this site. If you are lucky this could just be a one-off computer brain-fart and perhaps having switched the ignition "off 'n' on agen" cleared it, fills one with joy, if not over-confident about computer system perhaps.

Just to give an answer, as a non-expert in anything, the spoiler is to help with the car getting through the air to help (a tiny, tiny bit) with mpg and perhaps handling of the car, it also has ducting shaping to it which I would guess is about getting cooling air to the brakes wheel area and/or relief pressure. It's other purpose may be (I've never noticed the part) to offer so rigidity (to reduce or stop things flapping around) to the plastic wheel arch liner and engine bay under cover. HTH. Glad you're now sorted. 6V0853888A - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6v0853888a-wheel-arch-spoiler-skoda-24641.html ETA: just noticed thamestrader had already put this, eight posts before, but will leave as twice is often better than not at all.

I may be wrong but this is how I understand it - Felicia 1.3MPI 2000 year, was missing one ground on the OBD connector, now I installed but still no connection to the ECU or faulty codes (pin wiring diagrams to OBD port as in previous posts) pins 4, 7 and 16 wired - are pin 5 (signal ground) and pin 15 (K line-K2) also required to get the Foxwell NT 201 to work successfully? HTH.

Thanks for reporting back. **** parts quality is just restricted to Vika and spacer (insulating?) blocks, gaskets, or possibly any other new parts you fitted. Fully going through the range of adjustments might have cleared a bit of grit/****/debris/swarf, cleared something or smoothed something, or anything else you done this time - who knows, just rejoice! Well done, you got it sorted by keeping going at it. Often things are speeded up greatly when not dealing with modern made parts, if you can get good quality New Old Stock original, second-hand or good quality reconditioned/refurbished parts then often they can be better. Buying cheap can be very expensive in costs of time and hassle and replacing the cheap parts.

Well done. Computer systems work (or not) in mysterious ways! This Verisure seem to use reassuringly (or not perhaps) low tech for their entry systems, similar to what you might find on a pet's collar for their entry through their flaps and doors (and feeders) though now in UK all should be microchipped so tag discs no longer required. Going back a few decades for those low-tech proximity door entry systems, with data entries into spreadsheet systems, great for discriminating pay grades and (often self) perceived importance - until the cleaners need to get in everywhere. 😄 Keep your eyes out for cats, or dogs, burglars as they may have easy access to your property. 😁

By chance my wife's car is outside, I'd say that was a good spot and find (I lost VWŠkoda Fabia Mk3 link on that site). Spoiler to front of wheel with duct for wheel/brake(?). I'd see how much the Dealership parts section charge for the part you might be surprised that it's not as much as you think - or it might be an arm and a leg but it costs very little or nothing to ask. Let us know how you get on.

It maybe in theory that VAG-COM or VCDS or any correct level scan tool that has a program on it for a VWŠkoda 1.9D Pick-up 2001 can program keys but personally I'd have it done on the VAG 1522 by the local VW specialist then they take on any issues from doing this, hopefully and very usually none but I have seen on here with a newer model it reported a specialist place having to pay for a Dealership sort as they had a rare foul up using their machine, we're talking computer programs here and we know these often go wrong or just don't work. If the local VW specialists wants silly money for the work you could see if any s/h VAG 1552 might be for sale as you could use it for diagnostics on your car, garages here would literally throw away old machines like those after having stored them for many years and never used them.

Photos are not better on my machine (actually worse). High resolution photos attached or inserted to your post can be zoomed in on for part number and manufacture date and other details but you could see those for yourself by zooming in on your photos without the need to post if you don't want to. AFAIK the part VW / VAG part number will look something like the following (but different characters of course) - 6v0****1 and perhaps followed by a letter, 'a' for example. Otherwise if the Dealership is nearby you could take the part to their parts counter to be identified. If held by bolts then all you need is "repair washers" resting under the bolt heads and the plastic part will be held at those points. Repair washers are just washers with a wide enough outside diameter to cover the broken holes with the centre holes the correct size to match or slip over the bolt shaft and threads. Bigger ones used to be referred to as (pre-decimal) "penny washers". (low resolution (jpg) image)

Oh yes, the crash, bang, clatter of the inertia starter I'd forgotten that as swapped to a brand new uprated pre-engaged soon on in ownership of the car, early enough that I had to replace that one too, like for like this time, and I could see the drop in quality in the 'rubber' wire covering over those years, so much p1ss-poor rubbish rubber about on "classic" car parts then. Perhaps the way to find out is to remove the Verisure disc from key one and see if that improves things, as conformation perhaps you put the disc with key two and see if that effects key two. I could be wrong, as I am many times a day, I'd not think Verisure use the highest quality and highly quality controlled stuff, volume and price over absolute quality. (if) Chinese stuff is sold so cheap you throw away (recycle?) what doesn't work or stops working. My neighbour buys stuff from Temu and whilst some of it can be good, or not too bad, much is tat or worse but you can afford to buy a dozen of something to find the one(s) that work or stay working. I put up a solar powered LED light on his shed, three modes, screws and wall plugs, with remote control. Left it to charge up for a day in bright sunlight - it didn't work and hasn't since - but it was only just over £2. Another waste of recourses, time and possibly money but I'm sure as he's such a good customer he'll get a no-cost replacement or money back. He told me he got a voucher for £100 (!!) to spend on Temu a couple of months ago, that's a hell of a lot of potential tat. I saw a lot of the race to the bottom with parts when I had my various "classic" cars as dailies in the 30+ years and I waited to see how long before the same would happen with modern car parts.

If there is only one leak and this leak is inside the car from the A/C and the A/C drain terminates under the car as in your photo then could the leak to the footwell be a partial leak from the A/C, some to footwell and some to underside of car and/or at certain points of A/C use. Or the water in the footwell isn't from the A/C but from something or somewhere else. In your photo I'm not sure if there is one or two drops of water shown, is that a second water drop from the what looks a bit like a nut or is that an optical illusion. I've never studied or know where the A/C drains under the car. Having had old English cars (some soft-tops) in UK weather for decades I have dealt with quite a few leaks and "water ingress" and know where the water shows may be far from where it originates, gravity, and motion from driving, the architecture of the car and it's components and parts mean find the point of origin isn't always straightforward (same as tracking down sounds and vibrations). Someone with access to the correct diagrams and parts catalogues may be able to give you more information about the parts and routing of A/C drain - such as the Dealership parts and warranty/repairs/service sections. Was you given details of the fix last by the Dealer last year to know if it was on the A/C, drain pipe/tube, gasket(s) or other, if not ask them for details, they will have some sort of record of this. Or perhaps you could contact a HVAC specialist the works on VW products including VWŠkoda Fabia Mk3. HTH, sorry it's all I have. When you find out perhaps you could post back here to help others in the future., good luck.

How, what, why? Did you report this on the threads which were created for this one of which is clearly show at the top of this page. This seems a bit unnecessary, ungrateful and even in my opinion spiteful - but you are free to put what you have and as "I am not a number I am a free man" (as No. 6 told us) so is my response to you. You seem to have the arrogant privileged attitudes of a self-acclaimed freeman, please go to where you feel more suited.

Good advice already given. You might still be able to reuse that part, depends on existing fixings, their state and what they fix to, if the part is just some sort of cover but difficult to tell without more info. For future your photo is too small to zoom in on or see too much (difficult to get scale for size of part other than estimation) and there's no info on what year or model trim your car is other than you've posted in the Fabia Mk3 2014-21 forum. Unfortunately it's not a part I recognise from being under the front of my wife's 2015 Fabia more times than I'd like (which is none really). Let us know how you get on and what it is or if you want more info or advice.

Hi, welcome. Sorry I can't see where the drain valve actually is let alone any tube from it on any diagrams. As I would have thought the tube terminates under the car and your leak is from inside the car I wonder if it is the mentioned drain valve gasket(s) that might have failed (once or twice?) or not been fitted correctly (once or twice). If your car or the fix is/are still under warranty then the Dealership should sort this fully for you. HTH.