nta16

As I put before the Motul Motylgear 75w-90 Technical Data Sheet states - "Suitable for any type of seal and yellow material used in gearboxes design." - https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20210712.pdf MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20210712.pdf Personally I contact the oil company but the Motul GB contact webpage has the Head Office in France and Trade Only phone number but an open info@ email address, they also have a 'UK & Ireland Automotive & PCMO' enquiries contact personal email and personal mobile phone number (I never ring mobile numbers because of the cost and poor reception of network and mobile devices, which have annoyed me for so many decades). GB Motul and official GB distributors contact details. - https://www.motul.com/gb/en/information/contact_us

@froggy8 don't worry about it, we all make mistakes, no one is born knowing, everybody has to learn for a first time, I'd be surprised if that didn't include some all on here. 😉 If you didn't see this before - TYRE MARKINGS EXPLAINED - https://www.merityre.co.uk/tyres/introduction-to-tyre-markings And Tyre Age - How Old Are My Tyres? - https://www.kwik-fit.com/tyres/information/tyre-age Tyres are very important they effect the braking, steering and suspension and are more important than engine oil and such like.

That is where you are wrong, it depends on the particular GL5 oil, very old formulas will, some of the newer formula GL5 actually say they will not harm 'yellow metals', others do not have it on the packaging as they are not aimed at such a market but as a newer formula can be safe. We will have to wait and see if the synchros fail in my gearbox - and D.FYLAKTOS'. 😮 A lot of the very old owners of "classic" cars over here swear by Valvoline in their British "classic" cars, which is fine but it is American and I prefer to support a more local oil blender, and better product than the Valvoline they use.

I was thinking of ethanol effecting the fuel consumption in a very small way rather than "'compatibility". If you do not use E10 do you use E5 than as the (up to?) 5% ethanal IIRC give a small fraction more power and possibly a small fraction less fuel as compared to E0. @roottoot will have more and better details. Many with old cars over here run on E10 and use an additive.

Yes that's it things change, the petrol perhaps if you have E10 now and not before, higher fuel consumption with E10. Before I was young and handsome now I am just handsome (and modest). 😁

This can get you into all sorts of issues with VW's computer programs. Get the battery recharged as soon as possible or replace if required. Also check your alternator is working properly unless there are explanations for the battery being so low. It depends on how well this is done, if not done well and your car has other modifications sometimes these are not improvements and can be retrograde to factory standard. Sort the battery charging and see how it goes from there.

Or the programming you had done, or programming and a combination of your other modifications, or some or all of the modifications combined with VW's programming, or that the car is 21 years old and in serve driving conditions, or any permutation and combination of any above. The thing is you are progressing from where you were before. I have no idea if the 9,9 ltr or 28.53 UK mpg is ambitious or achievable, you will not not what is really good until this time next year when you have a year round's worth of information and recordings. You should be pleased with the improvements so far, unless you have got something wrong you will see diminishing improvements, if any.

I do not know but you might be better shielding the things you don't want to get too hot rather than insulating the exhaust manifold. The fuel consumption sounds quite reasonable to me considering the drive.

IF. If it is - but - if you don't know or you're not sure it is sensible to ask - and stupid not to ask. No one is born knowing, everybody has to learn for a first time, I'd be surprised if that didn't include some on here. 😉 For those that don't already know and would like to - TYRE MARKINGS EXPLAINED - https://www.merityre.co.uk/tyres/introduction-to-tyre-markings

Thanks, I didn't know if it'd have any sort of tyre pressuring monitor on it or not, 2008 is almost last year when you get old. All I saw was a black wheel hardly any tyre, you must have one of these phones where you can zoom in, well done, makes sense if it's a 2008 car. If it's a full sized wheel and tyre why is there the 50 mph sticker on it? My wife's previous 2008 car had a spare steel wheel with a tyre that was one ratio smaller than the other four to fit in the bootwell which meant the wheel you put in its place would need to be deflated and the spare remained totally unused as it couldn't be rotated with the others. Really, no really. like new, so grease like new so well under inflated. What are the normal storage conditions for tyres then. What's also been stored with the tyre. Is this tyre like a new one of the other three, or like a new tyre different to the other three that also aren't new. Is that a car trade "it's like new" 🤣 I once lifted out a "new" spare tyre out of a wheel well as as I picked it out I saw there was green liquid dripping of it and my fingertips, then I saw red, my blood. Neat antifreeze was in the wheel well and had eat through to the sidewall on the underside where I'd picked it up from. I was much younger and even more stupid than now and wasn't wearing gloves, luckily no sense no feeling. - But the tyre was like new.

Oh yes ALWAYS cover the basics and that means at least checking them if not doing them first or very early or you can't easily successfully moved on. I think much of servicing, maintenance and repairs often just boils down to clean and lubricate, even scan tool clearing of codes is cleaning. Some rush to the sexy tools and sexy jobs ignoring the basics as being boring without realising the significance, often just male ego. Put a bit of effort in at the start can save a lot of time effort and cost later. Then keep on top of things but no need to over do it. Once something is clean keeping it clean is easier as you're not shift so much dirt from one place to another. Think of engine like big air pumps and as with computers GIGO for diesels SISO. Once you're got things clean standard diesel should be fine but personally I'd run through a tank of v-power just before and at a service and MoT and and a second tankful (after the first) after the service, so depending on when your Mot and servicing is that could just be two tankfuls a year and no extra work or getting your hands any dirtier. A preventative tip to possibly avoid lots of unnecessary hassle is to make sure your car battery never gets low in state of charge and keep all its and cables/wire connections clean, secure and protected. If you're not using the car for much a suitable battery charger can save a lot of hassle and prolong the life of the battery and charging system let alone keep the evil VW computer programs at bay. Cleaning as detailed before including with correct level scan tool (code reader only really do that) and/or clearing of error codes might sort your 200rpm or the correct level scan tool help you sort it. Remember the scan tool point you where to start your diagnosis and that's not always replace the part that gives the error code.

10.46 ltr per 100km = 27.01 UK mpg so getting better. Again you see, this another non-factory stand modification along with the previous removal of the air intake valve and the remapping so three modified items - have anymore modifications from factory standard (ignoring the brace across the engine)? I have no idea with your engine but on my old engine some do the same as it's a fashion/trend/what others do, and track cars and race cars do it. But what is good for race and track cars is not always good for road cars used all year round in all conditions, in fact many thing could be detrimental. I go to a a specialist that does machining work on heads, engines and engine building for old British cars including track and race, flow bench testing, he's literally written a book on powertuning one series of engine, and a second book on cylinder heads, he also has a 2wd rolling road. Now the reason for telling you this, he is clever and humble enough to say he only knows what he knows and can easily still learn and be wrong, but IIRC for our old cast iron cylinder heads (on cast iron blocks) on road going cars he doubts how effective wrapping exhausts might be and that possibly some could lead to more heat remaining at the head. Might be entity different for your engine's head. We had an owner once with a old British car somewhere hot like Malaysia and he was doing all sorts of DIY testing on cooling system efficiency and how best to get rid of engine bay heat using cheap sensors and graph printout. Getting heat away rather than moved to localised areas of cooling and siting vents to get heat out at all speeds got incredibly complicated and never fully resolved. What you do in one area effects what happens in other areas. Same with car tuning, it has to be in balance to be an overall improvement.

@froggy8 - Particularly as a spare tyre you want it inflated to the correct pressure, generally pressure gauges on foot, electric pumps and at petrol stations are well out of calibration. As the spare tyres are usually of a different size you only really want to use them as a get-you-home only, despite how you might see others use them. Don't go above 50mph. That tyre whilst being kept in the dark of the boot is still possibly 14 years old but even if it was brand new it is a different size, type and characteristics to the other three tyres on the car so will behave differently. I'm not trying to worry or scare you, just be sensible about it, get it inflated to the correct pressure, *check the pressure with a separate reliable gauge, (they're not expensive to buy) use the car as little as possible (preferably not at all) be aware you're driving with an odd tyre fitted. Don't go above 50mph. * You might also want to check the pressures of your other three tyres too, check tyres 'cold', that is before you drive the car and warm the tyres with use. Any changes to pressure you might as well reset the TPMS on the car too as a matter of good habit.

Well done, you've made a good start. As well as getting a scan and cleaning off codes I'd look at cleaning the throttle body especially if the air filter was very dirty, sh1te in st1te out, so altho' many diesel owners think they have to wallow in it you can every now and then treat the car to a couple of tankfuls of clean(er) diesel fuel like Shell V-Power and have a silver grey loud behind the car instead of dense black on sudden hard acceleration. 15 miles isn't far, even if 60% of it is motorway, for your DPF and battery health if you don't get in some occasional longer runs you eventually see how the last owner got it to that state internally. Of course the engine is not really a top priority on a vehicle new to you, check first brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), lights, visibility and safety electrics. Ignore the video title you'll see from the very start it also has points that apply in your situation. Good luck.

So you have bandaged you exhaust manifold then, this would be another modification away from factory standard. Did that cover not also act as a heat shield then or was it just to gather heat for hot air to the filter box?

Yes I remember those photos, whatever it was hopefully it is all gone now.

Reason like, to something cheaper or they've made a mistake, but surely not fiddling figures. 🤣 I must admit I didn't see there was a centre security pin on that multipoint drain plug until KC put the enlarged drawing up, I didn't even know they came with security pins, should have guess from VAG though. So if @RoverP4has this then a 12-Point Triple Square (XZN) Tamper-Proof Transmission Drain Plug Bit Socket for VW/Audi/Porsche, possibly 16mm (i only had the quickest of looks), is required, I'm sure every tool kit has one. 🙄

@jonmad sorry my drill and screws won't work for your hinge replacements, it was as a possibly more accurate alternative to marking up for hinge and bonnet alignment before removal and not as hinge replacements. Apologises, I'll try to rewrite it. The cloths is OK though, only the other day I saw Ed China do it.

"Different versions of oil filler plug and oil drain plug. I - Oil filler plug or oil drain plug with internal serration 24 Nm lI - Oil filler plug or oil drain plug with internal serration 32 Nm" Why is this then, plugs of different materials, they go into different boxes or knowing VW they've changed their mind about their oil specification. 😄 I just went to my neighbour for a 17mm hex as I knew he'd probably have it, choice of two straight off without looking in more than one drawer. But he didn't know about 5 point hollow Torx and neither did I until neither size of 6 point security would fit.

Supplies have varied for many years. IIRC I have 3/8" hex female on the rear axle, formally 3//8" square female, I forget what's on the gearbox (fill/level only) - tell a lie it's 10mm female hex (IIRC). I assume before you meant to use the grips on the inserted socket tool rather than outer edge of plug. All the solutions are easier if the person has a lift so lots of room for levers and different muscle groups but lying under a car on just ramps and stands brings lots more limitations. Especially if the wind is blowing grit and dust up your nose, or your legs and feet are getting wet with the rain or sunburnt - everyday is a better day to be doing something else rather than car farting-about.

Rover P4 !! And I didn't even notice! Aunty, don't consider using a modern made cast mufti fit plug extractor tool with sloping sides, by coincidence I was only saying today to avoid them. Generally they're not good fit, horrible shape to grip or get any movement with. I cut the end tip off the diamond once to get a better fit on a splayed plug, I can't remember if it worked or not but I got the plug out using basic tools, no heat just generous stocks of time and patience which I know can be in very short supply or out of stock for many. My patience stock soon demises with cars, replaced by the repeated use of four swear words my wife tells me. @VWD I'm glad to hear you corrected your son's mistake, not his fault though I was taught by the lazy and ignorant car trade training.

Good. Was you able to see inside (the top of) the radiator (does it have a cap ) if there was any black tar, or to syphon the coolant level down in the radiator to check, the top of the inside of the radiator at least, has clear innards. Sorry, I misunderstood this as an issue you were still having rather than a report of what had happened.

Yes I know but men are not always very logical. Different specification systems, the API GL system is a straight time line, the DOT system is very illogical in its numbering. And you will not believe this but I know of people who have just used DOT 5 after using DOT 3 or 4 without flush cleaning or replacing seals and someone who did not even know he had DOT 5 in his very old car and had been using DOT 3 until he fully emptied the system and saw a difference in colour as the fluids came out. These different fluids were together for many years and the braking was fine and very old cars do not always have very good brakes or modern tyres to grip when braking and they really need to work best they can to be used on the roads with modern traffic. Sometimes the dire warnings of using fluids are exaggerated but as your coolant and additives mixing has shown you can not always know if things will go well or not. Using fluids that need changing every 18 or 24 months is totally ridiculous in the 21st century but for those that sell these fluids and make a profit on them why would they want to change things. DOT 3, 4, 5.1 taking the paint off, sucking up moisture, needing frequent changing, even on modern cars, it is ridiculous. So why would we not expect their numbering system to be ridiculous.

If your portable works then it suggests it's the unit in the car, always handy to have the following two links, you could check your car for computer program updates - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ and recalls (as if they would) - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions?state=OK&aid=jn7v1ef8-47qa-wsyi-5w76-0cxblc1kp49i Also check out DAB and in your area to see if the problems are general or with (VW) Skoda, a little research and you can at least stop short some of the excuses that the lazy employees might give. Good luck and who knows you might have a reasonable car Dealership, in England, to deal with, nice to report on good service when you get it. https://ligo.co.uk/blog/how-do-i-fix-dab-signal-problems/ https://radioandtvhelp.co.uk/problems-with-digital-radio-dab-reception/#/DAB https://getdigitalradio.com/?s=Postcode+Checker

No I was thinking of your more recent fills of the cooling system. So very clean. So it was all with the additives of two or three of the three fluids in system having a reaction - but none of those are in your system now so you just need to clean out the black residue from the system. MoCool - "Can be mixed with most coolants that are monoethyleneglycol based." - perhaps the key word here is most. Or the two different anti-freezes that you used did not mix well, another reason to remove as much residue in the coolant system as you can at each coolant change particularly if you do not know or remember what anti-freeze is in the system already or there is to be a change to the anti-freeze being used.