nta16

I'd not risk upsetting a 12 year old airbag system and it's connections and wiring, unlkess you have a scanner that can reset the airbag perhaps but then personally even then not, bad enough dealing with 12 year old plastic trim why esculate issues. Read the car's 'Owner's Manual' for what might need resetting, often it's only the time of day clock if you make sure all electric windows and sunroof are fully shut before disconnection, plus good practice to have all electric items switched off (even before you switch the engine off, or on, excluding any saftey items and off course all the stuff the computers do anyway). I've no idea about seat memories and fancy stuff like that though. I would favour disconnection of the battery for even longer to reset (a turnin' orft 'n' on agen thing) some of the computers anyway to help cut down a little perhaps on their brain-farts so leave the battery disconnected even longer, or for a 2014 car bridge the live and earth battery terminal clamps and turn the headlamps to on (they won't be of course) keep the battery treminals out of it and/or well covered/insulated.

Hi, this common from the Mk1 Fabias on I believe. Lots of threads and posts on this on Briskoda and information elsewhere on the internet. Sorry I've not time now to find and link a thread from Mk3 forum now but if you can't find anything post back and I'll look later.

ETA: possibly even cleaning it might sort things, depends on how dirty it is (car use history) and if it's cleaned correctly with correct cleaner.

Don't change any until you have checked if they're faulty first, you can put a multimeter on them for basic checks, it may not be the sensor at fault but wiring or connection(s) there or elsewhere. You are assuming your reader has given you a correct code, for a generic thing like this it probabaly has, but not all codes are strictly correct and often can be pionting at the messanger rather than the source(s) or cause(s) of the issue(s). For identification you could look up the VW part numbers on the parts you have found for their VW description of the part and possibly more information. Depending on the level of reader you're using you could perhaps swap the locations of the two identical (if they are) parts and see if that changes anything. If the sensor is inexpensive and the correct part to register correctly for a reasonable period and you just wantto take the chance then fine, a cheap Chinese part might be fine and longer last or a proper VW part might confirm it wasn't the previous sensor at fault - or either sort the issue and it's over and done with, your car, time, money and hassle to dop as you see best. I've changed an inexpensive part before just to elinminate it from the possible equasions - but by experience I learnt to keep the old part for a while at least as many replacement parts could be anything from absymal to not too long lasting or fine and forgotten about. Let us know how you get on.

So it wasn't made to VW German engineering specification then(?), 😄 no VAG, VW letters or logos. 😄 Or perhaps it was - make from wunderbar fantatic-plastic at a price and design so that it lasts long enough for any warranty period but don't worry too much for too much longer after that. 😁

The oil service and inspection are two seperate things so they both need resetting - and as put it's a bit of a knack thing to getting the procedure to work, the computers are extremy dumb so don't rush them and do expect them to have wobblies sometimes. When I've used the button method for reset I once got the oil reset done first attempt and then straight after the inspection reset took four or five attempts, I've no idea why. Next time I had to do them both three attempts each using same procedure and timings. You have to be as patient as you can with these computers, that's why they're ideal for rage rooms.

Depends where you are and whether you drink over-hyped and over advertised lagers and that black double-fizz stuff, then it need not be 'Spoons, probably get a meal throw in at at 'Spoons. 😄

Ah, one of the the German enginering quality of design and build acceptance of the wunderbar fantastic-plastic parts cable-ties and ducktape repairs, reminds me of 1990s British cars get-you-home repairs. That's of course is if bared-wire was freely available at the time. Ah, how we've progressed. 😆

Thank you. Does this belated improvement always work, or at all, with VW computer programing do you know? ETA: and would that apply to all years of a VWŠkoda Kamiq do you know?

😄 I saw you were on line and looked to see where you were posting - and it was here. 😄 For 2010-2013 Octavia you'll want the Octavia section with the Mk2 forum and also perhaps look at the 'Octavia Guides' and 'Octavia Project' forums for more and wider information, if wanting more from the engine and/or car then you may also want to look in the 'General Forums' section at the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades', 'Tyres & Wheels' and 'Insurance & Legal Issues' forums but that might depend on what or who kaputt'd the Insignia engne. All sections and forums here, HTH, good luck. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/

Sorry I'm lost, not that it matters, a Mk2.5 what, Insignia is Vauxhall as far as I know. Which 'Owner's Manual(s)' did you download and read? You've put 2010 twice, don't worry I'm not throwing stones I make lots and lots of typos all the time. Whichever VRS estate you're looking for there will be a section and forums on here to get information and advice from. Good luck.

As you don't know the history replacing both at the same time is a good idea, particularly if both remotes are used roughly equally. To save waste I would test the used batteries and if one or both weren't too low perhaps use them in items less critical and/or annoying than a VW product. Some people have prefered makes and models of these 'button' batteries but I found the ones on the cards from the pound ype places to be fine but for the non-thank-gawd-proximity remotes of my wife's 2015 Fabia (with fault expensive remote replacement) I used some expensive "premium" type batteries as belt, braces and string bit of reassurance and they've already lasted a long time without issue (well so far).

3v is a nomimal figure, same as with the car's '12v' battery which when new and fully charged (and outside of a VW product) could give a settled reading of 12.7v-12.9v (more if recently charged). If you have a fresh new unused remote battery of ther same make and model as the one showing 2.97v compare what that reads. Hopefully you know about keeping the proximity KESSY remote far enough away and perhaps sheilded from communicating with tha car unecessarily and draining its battery (say remote in room in your home and the car parked up all day nearby, within range, outside). Good practice is to alternate, however you like, the use of the second key, rather than retaining it as a spare, to get more even battery wear out of both and know the batteries are good and remotes are working, and know the location of the second remote rather than it be mislaid as a forgotten location of the spare.

That's great, that's one computer progam(s)/systems(s) up to date, the other computer system/programs you are using is the OBDEleven which also needs to be fully up to date before use on the car, and your phone battery not low, to avoid possible errors in the report of error codes you get from using the scanner. Having now downloaded and zoomed in on your photo I see the tiny 'phone' font is POC2B 00 so here are some posts on it within Briskoda for you to look at. - https://www.google.com/search?q=VW+P0C2B00+site:www.briskoda.net HTH.

Hi, welcome. Three things, 1) are sure your OBDEleven program is fully up to date and the program is correct, check with OBDEleven provider or manufacturer (or OBDEleven user forum)? 2) are you sure the error code is P0C2B00 and not POC2800? 3) have you checked for any Recalls that VW might (kicking and screaming, had to) admitted to this? - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns By a Google search I see POC2800 has a history. I will ask a Moderator to move your post from the 'Hello and Godbye' forum to the 'Skoda Kodiaq MK1 (2017-2023)' forum where owners and other may be able to help you with real world information, advice and experience about your model and year and possibly this issue. Good luck.

https://www.ross-tech.com/distributors.php

Unfortunately there's a lot more to a 2022 VW (Škoda) than even (an over complicated) 15+ year old VW though more recent VW servicing and "maintenance" schedules are more minmal on many items (and excessive on others). 2022 may enter the more protected computer systems and electronics on the car so you'd want a good independant VW specialist garage possibly or motorsport specialist often have the talent and attitude and not always as expensive as many might think. Most garages are very busy and you need to book in a good while in advance to get slots, with all the complexity and conveniences on modern cars (plus they're entertainment and stimulation centres on four wheels) means there's lots to sort out and service and maintain. I'd suggest you take a look and/or ask in the Octavia Mk4 forum possibly the Octavia Projects forum and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ HTH. Good luck.

Hi, two notes, firstly you've forgot this is an English language site and for this you might be better looking and/or asking in the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forums of this site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ HTH.

IIRC the existing struts will have all the info on them and you can measure them and see the type of fittings they have, also a good supplier will know which struts you require, there area few companies that specialise in these, I've not bought any so can't recommend any company. To save screen space with eBay items you can pos a short link by ending the link immediately after the itm (item) number as follows. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336485535023 HTH.

As Evolution13 put I also use something that computers are good for, calculations, to go from bar to psi, and 32psi is 2.2 bar, 17" wheels/tyres on the label on my wife's car. In this heat 36psi (on all four tyres, 5 if you carry a spare in the boot) is fine especially if you consider you could be at 35psi for 'ECO' setting (too hard/harsh feeling ride on the tyres on my wife's car for our liking). The Halfords electronic guage my wife bought me can be switched between different stagards of measurement but I keep it on psi (mainly because the instruction sheet font is too small for my eyes). KwikFit fitter needs to pay more attention and/or needs more training as I can't think of a reason to inflate to 45psi (3.1 Bar) other than perhaps mistaking 3.1 for 2.1 perhaps but not for someone in his job. To go from even 30psi to 35psi will make a noticable diffrence to the car's handling and ride let alone 45psi. In the olden days, when it was all fields around here, a tyre place might overinflate the tyres to get them "scrubbed in" for a short while before you dropped the pressure to usual and even for sports cars you might wheel spin and brake on the trading estate road to get the "grease" from the tyres a bit quicker but that was different times and different tyre componds. The 2017 tyre monitoring computer program must be tighter than for the 2015 if it notices smaller differences in tyre pressure/wheel rotation, that seems to have very wide parameters. Personally if I've taken the car into a tyres place (rather than just the wheel(s) loose) after getting back I always loosen off all the wheel nuts and torque them up to correct number using my cheap torque wrench that way I knew (after the 30-50 miles check) that I could get the wheel nuts off easily if needed same if a wheel(s) have been off at a garage. I leave the black plastic wheel nut covers off to remind me to do the 30-50 miles check, just decades of being a customer/victim of the UK motor trade.. My latest (manual, double-barrael) footpump has an electrionic guage seems quite accurate, well at the moment anyway but modern pumps only seem to last a few years, 5 at most, where as the PCL type I've had since the 1970s (and Halfords a good few years now) but I've no idea if the later/latest made ones are as good.

If you've not already seen it, along with all the other sections and forums on this site is the Fabia section including Fabia Mk3, Fabia Guides and Fabia Projects. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Good luck.

Hi, welcome. You don't say which model of VRS estate you're looking for but there are model and year specific forums, as well as more general forums, on Briskoda where you can find and/or ask for real world advice and information from model owners and others. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ I personally recommend that whilst looking for the car you look at and read the 'Owner's Manual' for the model and year you are considering as it gives lots of information about the car and what it might have, the servicing and maintenance, etc., etc. and if you also continue to read and refer to it during your ownership you can save yourself time, hassle and money particularly from unecessary visits to garages, mechanics and auto-electricians and you will know about yor car than many long term owners. You can get a free downloadable PDF version of the Owner's Manual(s) from the official VWŠkoda manuals site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Good luck.

Belinda, on my wife's 2015 Faia Mk3 the pressures are as photo below (I think, but check, a 2017 is the same), for two or three passengers and luggage it's 30 psi (35 psi for 'ECO' setting) on 14", 15" and 16" wheels. Info on label inside fuel filler flap, as photo. You need to reset the tyre pressures as to what is appropriate for you model (and wheel size) when the tyres are 'cold' (usually early morning or later at night). The weather temperature will make a difference to the pressure, about every 10c increase in weather temperatures inflates by 1-2psi. Once you have the tyres correctly set then reset the tyre monitor - DO NOT rely on ANY computer system to warn you about what might be wrong with your car (computers get things wrong, can be set too wide and have brain-farts) do all the driver maintenance checks yourself. You need to use good reliable consistent tyre pressure guages rather than those at petrol stations, garages and on pumps that will vary and perhaps be inaccurate anyway, good reliable consistent tyre pressure guages don't need to be expensive and last for decades. Or the good reliable one (at the time(?)) one my wife bought me a number of years ago. - Lastly, the tyre place should have told you that the wheel nut torque (how tight they were done up) should be checked after 30-50 miles to make sure, rarely do they loosen as most places overtighten despite using a torquwrench at the end (a waste of time often after using the air "rattlegun" to overtighten the wheelnuts). They should also have told you to take it easy on your new tyres for the first 100 miles (200 if wet) and not to over brake the car. These advices might be on any leaflet or paperwork you got from them. If your tyres were at 45 psi and you lower them to even 36 psi you should notice a difference in handling. Good luck let us know how you get on.

Short answer - depends on what the issues are doing - is the car actually faulty just because the systems aren't fully funtioning. You need to check with someone, that really knows, (a properly trained person in these matters) at your insurers. This you can also use to hopefully speed up getting the issue(s) sorted. Longer answer - first, 'blokes' on the internet can give their opinions and (remembered) experience, such as I'm doing, but what about knowlege, training and qualifications, personally I (ETA) don't have any in this area but how would you check if I said I did. If these systems can, freely, be turned off by the driver, usually going through driver computer menus or on switches near the driver then obviously there is a choice about their use so they're not mandatory - but - if your insurance is based on their use that would be another matter, and no doubt (ETA) anyway if there was an accident the non-use would be noted. Any system, whether used or not, doesn't take away the driver's responsibility to actually driver and control the car. If the faults in the system(s) doesn't interfere or hinder with the car being driven properly by the driver then them not working (if not mandatory) doesn't matter. Good piont about recording anything on an open public (or any) website, if you need to ask about anything that you think might (I don't think it will) get you into any trouble then contact the correct appropriate people non-publicily, it might still be recorded of course. Good luck.

If that's not a just a quick expression do bear in mind as they say, other providers are available, and sometimes/often(?) at lower prices. As for search for information on here and other sites a good quality search engine can find you lots of information, finding what is correct and best for you are different matters. On Briskoda there are more specialist sections and forums, for the Superb Mk3, Superb Guides, Superb Projects, then non-model specific forums like this one in the General Forums section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Anyone new to a model or type of car I've always suggested reasding and refering to the car's 'Owner's Manual', even before buying the car, as it can tell you such much about the car, and it's (minimum/not enough usually) servicing and maintenance requirements. Then when you have the car reading it and refering to it can often save you time, money and hassle especially for unecessary visists to garages, mechanics and auto-electricians and you will know more about your car than many long term owners. The publication isn't perfect, and VW don't put some information other car manufacturers freely give but it's usually a good place to start even for repairs. If you don't have the paper printed version you can get a free VWŠkoda downloadable version from the VWŠkoda manuals website. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models A couple more official websites that might be useful are the VWŠkoda Recall Campaigns website (well those VW admitt to anyway) https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns and the Update Portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ For modern cars (2017 is very modern to me) particularly those with stop/start and VW brands looking after the state of charge (and health) of the 12v battery is important, the VW computers are very fussy about this. Even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily (the battery has to be very low indeed for the engine not to start) the 12v battery state of charge could too low for the computers and they can throw up all sorts of warning lights and messages, unseen error codes and unexpected issues with the car. Loads and loads of threads and posts about this for each model. Often just driving the car isn't enough to keep the battery in a good state of charge as the VW battery system only normally charges the battery to about say 80% (to allow for the lip-service emmisions and fuel saving system). So if you prefer not to prematurely replace the expensive 12v battery(ies) and mess with 'coding' them then the occassional preventative use of an appropriate battery/charger maintainer to fully (to 100%) recharge is required, following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger maintainer. The charger maintainer doesn't need to be an expensive one. The Superb can have even more electric/electronic "aids", "assists" and conveience systems and parts on it than other models, and might have(?) a second battery to cope with all. Last thing I bang on about is more general, good quality tyres in good condition (and at correect pressure), as tyres are complex components that are often overlooked and not fully considered, as they are are, vital parts of the braking, steering and suspension systems. If you've read this far, 😄, that should be enough for one read. 😄 Good luck.