nta16

Yes - YOU. Once again you show your total lack of understanding, the matter isn't all to do with the simple maths you spout. Lots of owners have issues with battery state of charge and health, it's proven with statics, real world breakdown call outs, the issues and resolve on threads on this site and others and the situation has and will increase with newer cars, when you are driving newer car let me know. Not everyone is you , thank gawd, not everyone does as you do, thank gawd, not everyone has your experience and knowledge (and pig-headiness, thank gawd). Try actually reading and understanding what I put. As I've put many times now I will continue to put this, either Report me, become a Moderator and restrict me, or buy the site or keep on moaning about it and bore us all with it. BTW you've missed a few long, low, slow (wotever the wording is), I thought you were keeping a careful eye on me. I'm still waiting for your site email to me. Peace and love.

Never sure of anything, the car was bought s/h from a Dealership so anything could have happened, There were paint runs on the underside of the rear bumper suggesting after it left the factory work had been done there. I must admit I totally forgot what I'd normally say (is it a factory original part). There appears to be numbers on it but the overspray makes it very difficult to see with my eyes even standing outside in daylight with a X3 magnifier so later I'll try to take a photo of it. I only assume it's a genuine VWSkoda factory fitted part. The pressing into mating clips makes much more sense, it was the square dot on the bar that made me think it might be a twist (same as the incandescent DLR bulb holder), I've edited my previous post. I didn't have to do the work of removing them, thank gawd, so I don't really know and obviously if you were only removing the fantastic-plastic bumper you'd only disconnect them at the wire connector end (which would be a right PITA, at least, for me). The sensor was working so didn't need replacing but the repair place obviously wanted to, pity I didn't crack the (more cheaply made than a couple of years before) Deppo aftermarket rear light cluster lenses and have them fit a genuine VWSkoda replacement by my wife would have sleepless nights at the mere thought of such stuff and the insurance repair adds hundreds to this years insurance cost let alone future years even with protected NCB, but I'm not moaning as we've written a car off a piece over the 90 years of driving.

I thought you had succeeded by your previous post. Did you try removing before fully lowering (as in your changing cabin filter)? These thing do tend to be awkward rather than difficult, I absolutely struggle getting the small plastic wire connectors apart yet others seem to do it so easily, practice and/or confidence I expect. On my neighbour's 2005 Kia Picanto last time I changed the cabin filter I struggled to get the bits of rubber type plastic back in that stop the glovebox fully opening yet the two times before I managed quite easily, that's how these types of jobs go sometimes a few seconds or minutes other times lots of swearing and mug of tea break required.

Can't get engine to turn over or can't get engine to start?

@AgentBurn if you've not already done the work. This week my wife found on the back seat of her 2015 Fabia Mk3 a reversing sensor that must have been left in the car from the insurance work (we don't often have anything or one on the back seats, we had just two-seater cars for many years). It appears to locate to the bumper with an off-set pair of bayonet type triangular pins and locating (?)/locking bar with square pin on it, so I guess like a bayonet cap incandescent bulb a get correct orientation then press and turn to locate and lock into position. It also has a three-pin socket connector tube for connection to wiring plug. I can put up a photo for you if need. Edited with the help of rum4mo who, unlike me, has a working brain.

I think it's most likely to be a computer programming error or computer glitch (brain fart) from my experience of the 11k-mile hire 2023 VW SEAT Arona and 45 years of driving various old and new cars. In the last week I've had two different computer brain-farts from a 2016 Vauxhall, too many to count manufacturer's admitted to internment lane "assist" on a 2023 Ren-No! Nissan and my wife has told me whilst she was away this week her 2015 Fabia Mk3 told her of a fault with one of the (incandescent) DLR that just disappeared off dash and screen. Thank gawd we don't have to rely on these computers and their programs for driving the car, oh no, wait we do, wot could possibly go wrong (and be admitted to). :yikes:

Yes lots of car servicing, maintenance and repairs often boil down to clean and lubricate. The rush is to go for sexy tools like scanners but the basics of timely regular full and proper (rather than Dealership, some garages/mechanics) servicing, maintenance and repairs on the whole car and to include further or longer term cleaning and lubricating where required. I've been told on this site by some that things like cleaning sensors and throttles (unless lots of age and miles) will do not much when my experience is the opposite usually.

Arhhh, that's where you are now I did wonder. I thought about reporting to a Mod to move but decided against it thinking two's better. Thanks.

Hi, welcome. Up to you but you may be better posting or also posting, and searching in the Fabia Mk2 forum where there is more traffic and more specific knowledge on your particular model. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk-ii-2007-2014/ HTH.

Sorry I wasn't suggesting you were I thought exactly as you put that it was an option available and one that might appeal and be good for some. I got interrupted a few times whilst typing the post and missed this bit out. No one is forced to take up RAC offers of sale and installation but when the RAC are called out to breakdowns they do offer their batteries and installations as "distress purchases" rather than sometimes suggesting that the battery could be recovered successfully by fully recharging the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions. I've known a couple of case of this one was with a mate of mine, a story I've put on this site a few times at least now. He should have known better as I'd told him about batteries before. He declined the RAC battery and installation (not a stop/start or VW vehicle) and bought and fitted a new battery himself. When I found out I offered to take the previous battery away and was confident of recharging it for successful use and he could keep it for use with the other vehicles in his fleet and/or as a 12v supply in his garage or sheds, which je did when I returned it. It recharged very easily and confirmed a good state of health and drop testing. Another battery that had been replaced prematurely. Years earlier his IIRC 14 year old Toyota Supra at the time had to be jump started several times on a tour exhibition run day in France by my 37 year old MG Midget, no one would believe the MG was being used to jump started the Toyota and not the other way round. Mind he left the Supra running that afternoon for about 3 hours on the road just in front of the cafe where they sat and it never missed a beat or overheated even thought the day was very hot. He still had to buy a (very marginal, cheap) new battery at high cost that late afternoon at a local supermarket type place. He blamed the previous Italian battery fitted to the Japanese car. 🙂 I spotted the (£1454 !) £154 (inc P&P) Tayna battery you linked to and it's included in the link I put up for 115 batteries on Tayna - but they are physically bigger batteries, 315 mm long against the 096 at around 280 mm long based on foxdie2635's given dimensions and the Exide EL700, I have no idea what battery tray space is available, or if 096 or 115 are appropriate batteries types for the Scala foxdie2635 has as I put there insufficient info for me at least to tell.

That's easy, we can deal with that if required later. It depends on a number of things to say if an AGM battery would be that much better than an EFB if you do preventative recharges and maintenance with an appropriate charger. The charger you have bought should do a good job of recharging a battery provided you select the correct mode, as often happens the writing in the instructions is slightly ambiguous. Personally I'd not bother spending that much but if it's what you prefer it's money well spent particularly if it does the job well for many years (preferably decades) and you will need the charger in future even if you replace the battery or change cars (unless a much older car). 3.8A is a good level of amps for the charger but it does mean it can take many overs (overnight or more) to fully (or "fully") recharge the battery particularly if still fitted to the car. 70Ah = 7 amp by the VWSkoda Owner's manual formula, so 3.8A is well within (and better). Modern batteries are often fully sealed so you can't look inside the 6 cells to look at the electrolyte ('water') level in each cell and see the state (at their top at least) of the plates so with modern chargers they can show fully recharged, and it is but not as when the battery was in good condition of health. So you are in some respects working blind and having to fully trust electronics which isn't always a good idea. Take little notice of the magic eye on a battery. - https://batteryworld.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/battery-glossary This depending on what you are using to take this measurement, from where and when. 12.4v wouldn't be too bad on a battery at 4-5 years of use if you considered the measurement taken on the car with possibly 0.2-0.3v of the car's computers still running. If you have some constant drain like "See me home" (or whatever it's called, to me totally unnecessary KESSY keys, something added to the car at long or constant drain then these could be very good readings. Diesel engines take more from the battery to start so usually have a bigger battery to allow for this but are you sure it's the battery that is the cause of the harder starts as a battery that has got to the point of harder starts on a modern VW diesel car would be more difficult to fully recover and most likely nearer to being in terminal health and if left in this state of more difficult starts for a while next to proper "dead". What is the service history of the car, has it had timely engine oil and filter changes, engine air filter changed ever, any other cleaning if required? Any other faults or issues with the car? As you are prepared to pay more to get more, if you are in the UK I would suggest you use something like Shell V-Power diesel fuel regularly (does not have to be every fill up) and at least a tankful before/during a service and/or MoT and a second tankful after/during a service and/or MoT , this of course would be in addition to all servicing maintenance. I'm not a big fan of Autodoc for spares as they list too many options and ALL databases, including manufacturers have errors and omissions so ALL sources of information including manufacturers and posters on forums need to be checked and cross referenced against if possible two (hopefully) reliable other sources of information. That is not enough information to tell if the Exide EL700 is the correct battery for your model (it's 720A (EN rating)). - https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/Exide Light Vehicle Batteries 2023 Brochure.pdf ETA: do you know if the Exide battery fitted to your car was the one fitted to the car when it left the factory or did it replace the original factory battery and if so do you know why? If you give more information like the engine you have and your location we can pin things down more and be more accurate, as it is the Exide EL700 is what we in UK would mostly call a 096 EFB battery. The N70 VARTA BLUE DYNAMIC EFB START-STOP CAR BATTERY 12V 70AH (570500076) TYPE 096 would be my personal choice (£117.81 inc P&P) which as you can see make the RAC price seem very high. The RAC are also far too quick to sell new batteries when they are sometimes probably not needed. 115 AGM batteries - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/115-agm/ This is just an example of info, with yours you could put actual year or registration plate year if UK (19/69). HTH.

You could ask on the appropriate Octavia forum on this site if it's a known issue with your model. Porsche used to do the best alignment set ups as all their technicians had to be trained fully as Porsche model(s) at the time had problems that were difficult to resolve at the time but they are expensive. There are plenty of specialist suspension places about but some are better trained or knowledgeable about suspensions than others and garages that deal in general car mechanics might know more and better. Modifying, motorsport places places that deal with VW cars might not be as expensive as you think for proper four wheel alignment, they need to pay for the equipment and keep their staff with quick easy revenue work to do. For you taking your car to a trusted god mechanic is your first best move to check for worn or damaged parts (and very unlikely but it's possible to have a tyre that wears unevenly too). Many 'tyre places' can play around with alignment figures and suggest or show adjustments at a level that may not be possible to correct on a mass market street car or going down a few potholes or tap with a BFH could just about give the plus or minus increments they say are of concern.

We had a hire 2023 VW SEAT Arona as a hire car recently with 10k-miles recorded and first thing I noticed on first drive was the brakes snatched at the end of pushing the brake pedal. I'm not one to push hard on the brake pedal so this surprised me. Later drives It seemed to go away then be at the start of the pedal push. Though VW and Dealership I'm sure would never admit it (or VW's computer programmers) I think it could well be a computer programming error or of course the famous computer glitch (brain fart?). You could look and see if there's any admitted 'Recall' (but I doubt it). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns On a tangent - with the hire 2023 VW SEAT Arona one of the first things I done was the driver checks including the car battery, I fully recharged it using my appropriate battery charger and glad I did given the car's use as a temporary replacement for my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3. I've copied and pasted this from a previous post I've put on Fabia MK4 forum. - To save issues and hassles particularly look at your Owner's Manual about 'Functionality – Protection against discharge of the 12 volt vehicle battery' and '12 volt vehicle battery charging' as if the car battery gets too low the computer will punish you for your mistake and can cause all sorts of unexpected issues and this can be before or after you get warning messages or lights to tell you the car battery is too low for them. Just because the car starts and the lights seems bright enough doesn't mean the battery is in a good state of charge. If you let the battery get too low and/or too often you may not be able to fully recover it and it will need replacing a lot sooner than if given some care, (number one call of breakdown calls outs is battery related, almost always caused by owner/driver use/abuse/neglect). Just driving the car, particularly if many short journeys often is now insufficient on modern cars with all their computers and consumer convenience items so preventative car battery recharges with an appropriate battery charger is needed, a lower amps charger is normally better than a higher amps charger (see VW instructions in Owner's Manual). HTH.

@foxdie2635 how much is the battery dying? Rather than replacing have you tried fully recharging the battery with an appropriate battery charger, following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions. A lower amp charger is generally better than a higher amp charger (see Owner's Manual). If the battery is very low then the recharging could take a long time, many hours, so if you can't fully recharge the battery in one go do it in a couple of goes (or more) as close together as possible. Time and patience are required, these are sometimes totally out of stock for some. VWSkoda Owner's Manuals free pdf downloads. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Do you fully know about the requirements with changing a car battery on a start/stop VW car? Car batteries are one of the most over sold car parts and number cause of breakdown call outs, very rarely is the battery the at fault but it's use/abuse/neglect by the car's owner/driver. Sometimes, perhaps often now, the car battery has had too much and/or too often use/abuse/neglect and can't be fully recovered for successful medium and longer term use but obviously I can't know if that's the case for your battery. Good luck with whatever you decide, if you want more info, just ask.

When all else fails, or better still at the very start, you can read and refer to the Owner's Manual. @Matt116 may have already done so. Despite what some might make out it's not against any law for a man to read instructions). If you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when need it could save you time, hassle and money (unnecessary visits to Dealership/garage/mechanic). To save issues and hassles particularly look at your Owner's Manual about 'Functionality – Protection against discharge of the 12 volt vehicle battery' and '12 volt vehicle battery charging' as if the car battery gets too low the computer will punish you for your mistake and can cause all sorts of unexpected issues and this can be before or after you get warning messages or lights to tell you the car battery is too low for them. Just because the car starts and the lights seems bright enough doesn't mean the battery is in a good state of charge. If you let the battery get too low and/or too often you may not be able to fully recover it and it will need replacing a lot sooner than if given some care, (number one call of breakdown calls outs is battery related, almost always caused by owner/driver use/abuse/neglect). Just driving the car, particularly if many short journeys often is now insufficient on modern cars with all their computers and consumer convenience items so preventative car battery recharges with an appropriate battery charger is needed, a lower amps charger is normally better than a higher amps charger (see VW instructions in Owner's Manual).

Good point, I'll redact that - and if I can redact it I'll cover it with black lines or boxes. 😁

I'm lucky to remember my name most days, I think the light was on an earlier model, I'm not sure Fabias have such things as cameras, not earlier years anyway. I'm not able to check parts numbers so this is just as an example - Outdoor Handle for the 5th Door Škoda - boot unlocking switch for cars with central locking, for combi and sedan cars - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6y0827574m-outdoor-handle-for-the-5th-door-skoda-6096.html Replacing the switch might get the boot light working too, but I don't know. Only as example - I don't think you need this -Servomotor for the 5th Door Lock Škoda - Boot lid lock with a motor for opening the boot, bottom part, for cars with central locking - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6y0827511g-servomotor-for-the-5th-door-lock-skoda-5786.html

There was a thread were a number plate light had got corroded from water getting in IIRC but I can't find it now. Can't believe that price it must be for more than just a microswitch door switch assembly surely.

Sorry but when doing this sort of thing over the internet we don't see, hear, smell and feel what you have or can so it just leaves questions. Taking good quality photos (in landscape, not portrait) and posting them here can often help to save confusion and help spot something that might be not expected. So, the questions, sorry. How is the battery good, any measurements, when were these measurements taken, did you check the electrolyte level in each cell, (I have been told many times a battery is good when it was not)? Did you check the battery terminals are clean, check the battery terminal clamps are clean inside and out, make sure the clamps are securely fitted to the battery terminals, that the main cables and their connections (including earths) are clean, secure and protected, all other electrical cables, wires, earths are clean, secure and protected? Filter new (and hopefully) clean is good but what about the filter box and hoses off this are they clear and clean? In what way is the MAP OK? How are the spark plugs OK, how were they tested, how old are they, how much use, are they genuine or possibly counterfeit?

As a recovered hi-fi nut of 40+ years (from the 1970s) of high monetary expenditure I think with that you might be paying more for brand and peer acceptance and into diminishing returns, certainly against expenditure, any basic sound deadening mats cut as required would reduce some of the vibrations from the thin metal sheets that are on a modern car but I doubt you'd be satisfied knowing you hadn't used the more expensive stuff which may give some small greater improvement. For sound quality everyone of us is different to what we hear and what we want/need but as with cars generally whatever you have, whatever it can do, it can be improved, there is no end to the improvements only a level of what you can accept. You might find that you are listening to the system, environment, source quality rather than the music, play or program or perhaps that's your aim in which case there are test signals or I believe competition signals purely to test or as competition. I now find quite modest systems fine and just accept them as they are and don't own any systems myself at all, my last car that I had for 16 years didn't even have a radio let alone any sort of reasonable audio system so I can't help you any more than the experience I've already put which I know won't be relevant to you at this point. Good luck.

What is it that you want to achieve with the sound deadening audio sound quality or general car vibration noise?

Wow, €167. he must be weighing up diagnostics, search and testing time/fees against likely possibility of just replacing the part. The leaking of washer fluid into and out of the rear door you might notice you might not, depends on a few things plus the leak may not be at that point anywhere, or it might be a blockage in the pipe or connection or pipe squeezed to close or connection off, might be an issue with or at the pump. Boot light is another matter, if it doesn't come on when you open the tailgate then testing the bulb is first port of call, Sod's Law allows for more than one cause of problems in the same item or area. In a way it's good to know that you can survive without such things as washer to rear window, you're a hardy pair. 😊

I thought I was going to have to remove the rear fantastic-VW-plastic bumper on my wife's 2015 so had a very quick look at things on the car and it looked to be easy. I think the most difficult bits will be the usual PITA stuff like disconnecting the sensors from the bumper if required if they're on plastic clips, same as when removing the rear light clusters the awkward (for me anyway) wires connectors. I judged I'd need the help of my (very reluctant) glamorous assistant (and she couldn't get out of helping as she'd caused the problem) to have one on each end of the bumper to lift/pull off the bumper without dropping any part of it to the ground and scratching the paint and to also transport it without damaging it to a safe area for me to do the work required on it. Even if your car is clean there'll be dust at least around the wheel arches and behind the light clusters. I've just found this guide previously posted by varooom, this looks very helpful and what I expected. - Fabia III Rear Bumper Removal.pdf

Check the battery state of charge at the battery terminals. If the battery wasn't 'coded' or 'coded' correctly it might be in a low state of charge despite being new , a battery is just a store and the store can be depleted even if new. Whilst you are at it also check the battery terminal clamps are also tight and clean, it's amazing the number of places/people that are sloppy about doing such easy work. Many owners don't realise a battery can be low even though it starts the engine and the lights seem bright enough, you get warnings then items unavailable by the time the engine is difficult to start the battery could be beyond full recovery, hopefully not on such a recent battery. If the battery is low then fully recharge it with an appropriate charger maintainer, a long. low, slow recharge is usually better than a shorter, higher, quicker recharge. If you're in Northampton send me a direct private message through the site and I can check the battery state of charge and installation if you want/need me to. Sorry I no longer have access to a scan tool as my neighbour has moved away but IF it is the battery once it is fully recharged it is very easy for you to get rid of the warnings without any tools - but of course if there is also a separate issue with a speed sensor then some or perhaps even all of the warnings will remain but any electrical or engine starting problems are helped by not have the battery in a low state of charge.