nta16

Always be wary of Haynes, as for VW recommendations/specifications see above. German engineering excellence - It takes a long time to loose a bad reputation but even longer to loose a good reputation.

But is this as it should be. Pipercross is a very local company to where I live, they started in what used to be the nearest village. I once had a car with one of their filters fitted, I bought the cleaning and dirt retention kit to service the filter and I did not like it at all, it was like adding honey to a fuzzy stick. I swapped it for a K&N as the filter was on British sports car and in an awkward place to get at and I wanted fit and forget. Northamptonshire, the county area where I live, was an engineering county (along with boot & shoe) and still has lost of associations with motorsport (Cosworth and other German lot as just two) the drag strip is in the next county but nearby, yet funnily enough unless you are in the trade or in motorsport it is very difficult to get more than basic car work or parts. EBC brakes are a local family set up and run business, I've not used their products.

I was going to put my usual about the car battery but I get a sort of trolling when I do which could detract from the message and OP think the others must be right and I'm wrong. -

Plenty of videos on cleaning/fixing keyfobs, you can pick the one you agree with. Good luck.

Just my thoughts - was it the batteries or the circumstances the keyfobs were placed in - were the batteries genuine Panasonic - I might have the brands mixed up (but I don't think so). As I put I've seen posts about this issue generally, whether there's something more specific to 2018 Superb's I wouldn't know. A couple of hyperlinks I have 'bookmarked'. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions?state=OK&aid=4a11f097-0c5d-4513-a5f3-2fd19ff9f7fa Good luck.

This is VW's control freakery and thinking they are clever by insisting on 'special' specification of fluids are required for their products but you can't ignore it as you never know what they've done, "improvements"/engineering short cuts or mistakes to necessitate theses things. Later of course they have been known to change their minds on the fluids or claim improvements (G13 to 12evo, 'synthetic' to mineral on some DSG gearbox oil). You never know what additives in the different coolants might or might not mix well so whilst G12 is still about I would stick with it (unless I was doing a very full and very thorough drain, clean, flushes and change of all coolant and the residue normally left with coolant changes). The colour is a VW thing the specification (TL VW 774D) is what matters but I might still stick with the red colour to save any possible future concern or confusion. See table below lifted from here (D.FYLAKTOS?)

Loads of info about this in various threads and posts covering different models on here if you wanted to do a search or if you get few replies. What little I can remember - someone said go with Panasonic batteries (IIRC) - seems to be a lot with problems use Duracell but that might just be a coincidence of the popularity of the brand (all that advertising works). Personally I'd be very careful where I got my batteries from for something like this as counterfeits/fakes can be about. If you have the two keyfobs close together and their signal can reach the car with some systems the keyfobs could be trying to outdo each other as to which is dealing with the car and wear battery(ies) out even though they should both be at rest. I might be on fantasy island with this one, carrying the keyfob together with one of these absolutely marvellous "smart" phones or devices and or having the keyfob in your pocket(?). All beyond me as I prefer a a keyblade, even annoys me using the button on the keyfob because the only door lock is hidden (not my car so I'm not allowed to moan about that). One thing I do know is not to let your car battery get to a lower state of charge if you don't want to be punished by the cars computer programs.

Perhaps your engine is really running that clean, or perhaps the hose is not working as an outlet for some reason, could it be working as an inlet even. The old way to test if the positive crankcase was working on my old engine was to have the engine running at idle and remove the oil filler cap, which is also a filtered inlet, and if the sound of the idle changed things were working, you could also, without the engine running blow down the outlet hose with the oil filler cap off to see if you could feel the breath on an open palm. But I have not idea how it works with your engine and set up. Yes and if you see oil-dirt at the end of the hose yet you still get improvements then perhaps this was at least part of the issue but you will have to wait and see if this fits in well with your other modifications. Do not get the idea that I am against modifications as my car has many.

I don't know if the quoted article is about car tyres, and I don't know about motorsport but just for once my memory was right about planes. My wife's Fabia tyres seem to loose a bit of pressure over time but I think that is more to do with all the large holes in the roads around here. Mexicana de Aviación Flight 940(Wiki) - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mexicana_de_Aviación_Flight_940

Yes they put muck into the mixture, so you have to think about cleaning more than if it did not, that's life. Well unless I have misunderstood what it is about, which is highly possible, that hose sends muck towards the filter so the inside of the filter will be holding some of that muck, I suppose the filter is providing a bit of resistance especially if coated in muck on the inside. If the pipe is anything to do with engine pressure too then that has to be dealt with too but I know next to nothing about the engine in my car and nothing of yours but I do not think those emissions will help your cold start themselves. The factory designed the system to comply with regulations and also designed the other systems to cope with it, there will be compromises but when new and when the engine is serviced and kept reasonably clean things should remain reasonable running. remove the those emissions is ok if any other consequences of doing this are successfully dealt with. If things worked fine before they could be made to again.

IIRC which is always doubtful, this nitrogen in tyres is from big planes that go up where it's really cold, so possibly in other places where it's really cold it might have some advantage when it's really cold in these really cold places but I'm not sure this includes the UK.

Well done. I sent my mate the photo before and he said not. Exercise the brakes a bit more than usual and you'll find if they free off.

Perhaps that suggests they might not have been working well for sometime. In that case see how things go after this renewal. I would have thought so, but I am not an expert, on anything. Not really, perhaps if the parts are all old, crusty, rusty and there's muck rather than any lubrication (if required) they 'd be more difficult to but the hydraulics should overcome it unless things are seized. If you don't know how old the shoes are, or you know they are very old I would replace them with new and also install a complete new fixing kit which will renew all the springs. Before installation obviously I'd clean and where required lubricate when fitting new. You could perhaps wait until after fitting the new pressure regulator to see how good the existing rear brakes are. I always like to give a really good flushing out of the existing brake fluid and flush cleaning before fitting new parts to the hydraulics. Don't forget your tyres are an important part of the braking system too, if they're gone hard from age and/or lack of use and/or very worn they won't help the braking. If your rear brakes are doing next to no work then it follows the fronts will be working harder so having all four corners working properly will balance things out and improve matters overall. Let us know how things go after fitting the new part.

Emissions, instead of putting the crap to the atmosphere it goes through to be burnt. Back in 50s a hose would just hang to the ground, It another modification (not mentioned before), how this affects your engine ventilation and running depends on your ECU mapping and other modifications and beyond me - but the others will be able to tell you.

11,8 ltr / 23,94 Uk to 12,2 ltr / 23,15 Uk is around 3% difference so within a reasonable range of variability or error and the figures are from only one source so need some sort of backing up. If they remain plus or minus around this point for a number of days with similar weather and journeys then that is a reference point. When was the TC-6fitted and fully working?

Yeah, well there are few things I could pick out there but for the sake of your fatigue and nerves I won't. Palm to head though, very obvious omission which I can not remember being covered - fuel, injectors, if they are tired, partial blockage, lots of short journeys, whatever, they could build up dribbles from being used which might hot soak away a bit but overload from cold starts. This is where live data is useful if available. Have you tried any good injector or fuel system cleaners, I would like to get my hands on ATS but I think it is only to trade and/or USA. Regular or very regular use of higher cost (and usually octane) fuels might negate this a bit with their additional cleaner quantities in the additive package or possibly timely use of an effective injector or fuel system cleaner. Like spark plugs and other items injectors can still be working but passed their best and optimum and reasonable. There can be quite considerable tolerances before error codes kick in and yours might not be that bad that they give the usual signs. I was wondering before if the parking underground environment might have some effect on the fuel, so perhaps this has been covered before and I have forgot. Now was I going upstairs, or downstairs . . .

I should have guessed something like that but I'd have thought of blue for that. I had to look it up but NASA reckons air is 78% nitrogen, although I've no idea /forgotten // never really knew what happens to air when compressed. I can't even fact check now RT off-air. 🙃 It's not oil it's a gas, gas, gas, as the very ancient one would wheeze. 😁

Sorry, forgot to put you can buy multi channel listening devices to clip to various locations at once and flick through the channels until you find the one it seems to be. I think you can get them very cheap and possibly very s/h after being used for the same sort of thing once, The very cheap ones have thin leads so careful placement around moving parts, or a touch of the Isadora Duncans.

Blimey, gotta name that toon in two, audio was only a second long. I could imagine that being one of those gearbox mounts as it has a sort of rocking sound - but - sorry, I really don't know, other than it's not quite the same as ours as ours has a slight squeak to the end, perhaps suggesting ours is more worn/ loose / faulty. I've found noise, like water (leaks), do travel and where it ends can be quite far from where it begins. You could try strapping/clipping/tying a listening or recording device [ETA: spare iPhone] to a couple of areas under the car like near front left damper or both gearbox mounts and see where the noise is loudest/most distinct. Or hopefully someone else might know from your recording here.

It might be the way the site deals with it.

Living up to the i-can'tPhone as I call them. 😁 Nope, sorry not for me on a PC using Micro****. I can't remember how it was resolved previously, or more likely had no idea. Can you cut it to audio track only / audio recording, does that make any odds.

They might I don't, as the video and company is American I saw it but thought no more of it, so what does the green dust cap indicate?

Whatever that file/link/wotsit is isn't not opening, perhaps you have to make it public or sumfink but it's not not my old machines others had trouble opening one of those in a past thread. I'll get me "cans" and see if it sounds the same as our noise.

Thanks from me, I thought before I'd seen that the tag could be in the wheel well but wasn't sure what models and years that might apply to so didn't put it.

Good advice. I do that too (but with a manual foot pump). Some come with an adapter to connect directly to the car battery. Viar disagree with you there for their units - "Connect the press-on tire chuck to a tire valve stem before turning the unit on". @Ads230Here's Viar's model 84P with "press-on air chuck" and analogue gauge, with 15 amp draw (see pdf of User Manual). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293792153620 00084_Manual.pdf