nta16

I can't remember what but the grille is different. Was your radio aerial in the sunroof (real 80s stuff) or heated rear window?

You've spoilt my feat of memory now. 😄 Yes, mine was T first year of March registrations. Such wealth you had then, even more if you had one now.

Yes of course you do, I can't think what I was thinking of, other than when I was previously putting about a car that I bought in 1999. Yes I see now, 1983 is nearer and 1978 is further away. I think the medication is wearing off again. Thank you, you can also see why I have to double check myself now.

HP for ego, torque for winning. 😄 Anyway those are claimed figures when new yours might be less - or might even be more. It's not about figures on paper or dials only how it feels or makes you feel. Possibly a lot of the time you are only using a fraction of it, and only getting about a third anyway.

My first was 1985, then 1986 then 1987, so all were the later better steering, I had a red first, blue second so I thought I might as well have white, just to be patriotic. 😁 You don't mean T-reg that was 78-79, I had a by then old T-reg MGB and when I took the seat covers off discovered the foam were stamped at my 18th birthday so T-reg even I can remember which years. So that I don't get shouted at by the bigger boys and they end up in tears can you please just confirm for me again that a Felicia GLX Comfort 1.3 MPI with 781.136M engine would be subject to (notorious for) timing chain rattle? Thank you.

I am not disagreeing, I thought you wanted to find out why, I was just making suggestions to what might be available to you to try.. The 12-13 ltr/ 100 Km is a new figure you have just presented. Previously you had IIRC a broken air inlet flap, over-rich coolant and a remapping but I can not remember your ltr/100km figures being anywhere near that high. Unless you are saying different the issue seems to start from late night starting 5 floors down which in itself does not seem to make a lot of sense. Do you remember the chap who had to push start his car only in the morning, yet I and others thought his starter motor seemed fine yet he discovered it was just the cold morning start the motor could not cope with, if he had not kept investigating the starter motor it would have remained dismissed.

As I used to post for Porsche owners, good for GTI owners too but we had none in the club. - My first two Estelle 2s I had for a year or less and didn't get to much more than 20K on either, third was over 50k though and I can't remember rattle even with standing at the back with the lid open, or at least not enough for me to take notice. Two were brand new the first was two months old (so 22 months warranty) with 6k on it staff use car from imports in Norfolk. The old friendly Skoda garage (pre-VW and later just as they took over) only wanted to changed the effected side but I insisted on both, never any upselling on service side then. I got the flagship of the fleet once as a courtesy car, an old Estelle Mk1 105 which they had as a trade-in and couldn't break, boy could it go, not fast or quick but great fun and very willing, felt like you could tour the world in one go, but boy was the steering heavy and stiff.

@TMB would this be the same for a Felicia 1.3 MPI, 136M engine? I never had chain rattle on my rear-engined Skodas and I had over 50-kmiles on the last one before I sold it. But it did have dreadful wheel bearing noise but it still turned well, until I could take the noise no more. Took a mate from Northampton in it, with the noise, to Lanark Sherriff's Court for him to lose his licence for overtaking a Scottish vascar in three digits. He lost it for IIRC a month so he lost his reps job and went to another small company where he didn't tell them about his loss and one of his duties was to drive one of the bosses about because he had lost his licence! They much later found out but didn't care as it was that type of company.

For other viewers. Not sure you'd want the one used as example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265001686778 This one is called SKODA FABIA DOOR LOCK REPAIR KIT FRONT-LEFT / RIGHT (note your responsibility to check if item fits and if seller is to be trusted, I'm not on commission). - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220679277662 (I didn't type as I'm not good at it as you know so I just cut&paste'd.)

Yes I would definitely replace the plug if it's beaten up and then if you get a bag or box of sealing washers you do not need to worry about the new plug and always have a new washer (in the old days you could reuse the washer but money is more important than materials and recycling in the modern world despite corporations and youngsters pretending otherwise). danilob as a computer guy you know how very, very, very, imperfect computers and their programs are, you as a driver or passenger can often know and sense more than the computer programs, you have eyes, ears, taste, touch and obviously a marvellous biological electronics in your head so always use those in conjunction with any scan tool. Always take any error codes as the starting point of diagnostics or at least cross-checking. I for no good reason might defend the first mechanic as he might have been asked just to keep the car going with no cost - but then you went on to the second mechanic. Yes I have had a lot of experience of mechanics and the motor trade generally in my country so I can also tell you that specialist experts can be just as bad even if they are highly respected widely by others, con-men are very good at projecting and protecting a fantastic image and reputation they do not deserve. I deleted almost all the photos I had as few would believe them, other than those that had also had bad work, and for my mental and physical health. Your car sounds fantastically robust, I think if you can get someone reliable to advise you on how bad the timing chain might be to see how quickly it might, or might not, be as what is noisy to you might not be so bad to others. I doubt it will be in great condition but like mine if you avoid where it rattles most and all your cleaning, lubricating, servicing, maintenance and repairs may take some of the excess strain (for the want of the right word) off it. For learning and cost it is best to sort one part/item/area at a time but sometimes we do not all have the time or lifeforce to spend for too much farting about with cars and may need to use them in short order and just have them running to get to work to pay for them. So if sometimes it is just quicker to throw an inexpensive part on to get the car moving then do so - but hold on to the previous part until you are sure the new part is fully working - you know reinstalling the previous version because the updated improved version, is not! You probably know plan-do-review, if not I can send you notes, always stick to it, as you can imagine despite giving the advice often I do not always follow it but always regret not doing so. We have had two Fiats, so we both know your girlfriend's Fiat Coupé would never be anywhere near as robust as your Felicia but can provide you with all the learning about car repairs and maintenance you could ever want, or not want. A mate had a s/h 20v non-turbo for about 12 months a couple of decades back and we almost bought a new imported LHD Barchetta in 1999 before the Dealerships officially imported them but when the exhaust trim fell off the 3-year old Cinquecento (Sporting 1107cc) and given the other problems we got a MX-5 instead. I hope your Covid was not too bad and you are fully over it, do not dismiss it and think you can not or will not possibly get it again. My wife got it very mildly the other week and we are triple-jabbed.

I know your game you're trying to get me in trouble with the thread drift police. I've used LPS grease in another lifetime, that was tary-black and IIRC sticky but not dirty IIRC. Ordinary grease (which seems harder to get now other than Comma) use gets me dirty enough, though the excess clean grease then cleans that off until the next lot of used dirty grease. Every 3 months I have to, oooh, er, missus, grease my nipples and among the many things that **** me off about doing it is that each time I use up about half a roll of my favourite budget white kitchen roll. Previously I had a green cartridge type grease gun and the grease in the cartridge was green, I won't tell you the make of grease or you'll be off with more thread drift and a favourite saying! 😄

Fair enough, too much emotional attachment to sell it, but I'm surprised you got sticky valves and needed more than oil and driving, and bear in mind I'm not against using engine flush. Unusual that the hood breaks . . ., calm down I'm only pulling your leg. I've had cars where it takes too much time and effort to stop to put the hood up or cars without hood or doors but I've never been hardy enough to be in hood never goes up. About 1997 I had the chance of a very nice and very well kept s/h Mazdaspeed Mk1 but the thought of the chip and insurance for modified back then put me off, then after it was sold I found out the chip was took off. I had a new Mk2 but after I sold it and had to borrow a mate Eunos mk1 s/h grey import I found I'd have preferred the Mk1. He got it cheap as white wasn't a popular colour but had the wheels swapped as point of sale, later I learnt they were BBS. 🤣

And that to me is dirt, dirty, messy and other descriptive words best not typed in mixed company. I could be accused of many things but obsessively clean, never, sometimes the opposite maybe. Engine oil change, clean and lubricate.

I agree with service the car (and not just engine) and drive it regularly on reasonable distance journeys and things will improve themselves. But I don't see anything wrong with throwing some flush in an old and old style engine (not that worried with the newer engines either), modern VW/German stuff might make me hesitate, but the flushes are quite 'thin and weak' so won't do much. If there's worry about a big lumps of muck running round an already clogged delicate engine then run a cheap engine oil (to whatever spec number VW finally decided of course) for a while as a flushing oil for x-mileage then change filter and engine oil to a decent oil, or even another run of the cheap oil if you got a job lot for another x-mileage before changing filter and to a decent oil. The point of the flush, of any type, is for the benefit of the whole engine and because of Fominas' reluctance to just drive the car after an oil change, there might be a longing for placebo and worry about what might go wrong from just changing the oil& filter and driving the car. Perhaps Fominas will feel better now to go with change oil and drive now he's had more info and choice. ETA: I asked for white paper towel, my preference would be for a certain inexpensive kitchen towel but I do not know if it is available in Lithuania so did not specify. Only as a side benefit it might also provide a photo that has the subject in focus and with a more suitable background rather than something dark against something else dark or being camouflaged against a confusing background with the casual use of a phone for photographery. PPS - was there a third type of flushing oil? or is the medication wearing off again?

Does seem strange, what about doing the same but driving straight off whilst timing and see if the drop takes as long. Or if you can reverse the morning/noon and evening starts so that you start the car 5 floors down at morning/noon and your late night start with the car outside. Or both morning/noon and late night starts outside to see if it might be an environment and/or time thing, so also perhaps a morning/noon and late night start underground. What might have changed during or at that 100km? How are your TC-6 figures on this longer higher idle compare to before?

On topic - the flush oil instructions can vary a bit but generally are as put, there used to be also be full fill flushing oils and I think a third type, possibly in between, but I can't think what, unless I'm on fantasy island again. Off-topic - @skomazI'm flummoxed with your MX-5, unless it's only a show car why on earth would it be laid up over winter, there are many great driving times in winter, more so than in summer often, and being a Japanese car the soft-top hood is designed and constructed so that it can very quickly be lowered and raised and keeps the wind and rain out. You shouldn't need to use a flush, a good quality oil (and more regular use) should sort it surely, many MX-5s must get hibernated and I bet some (many?) of those only get an oil change on mileage.

Sorry I think you have misunderstood me, I did not mean the 'Italian tune-up' as an alternative method of cleaning but as a method of driving after this cleaning to get the cleaner and crud that is in there from the Seafoam and its hopeful cleaning out of the engine and off the spark plugs as you asked. In the video he says something like "it may get something off your pistons if you have something on there" which is what you wanted with the Seafoam cleaning. The definition he used as an 'Italian tune-up' is stricter than the general use of my understanding, mine is to drive in a very spirited manner not rev the rocks off the car (or drive like a total idiot), more about harder driving to get more air mixture through and out of the exhaust quicker to get the process over quickly (and perhaps more thoroughly).. Note he also said about the car being carb'd up from the petrol and oils used, prevention is better than cure, also as said at the end of that video. Also bear in mind the video relates to later engines but I still wonder if it worth the effort for earlier engines even though gernerally I am not against additives or spray cleaners but they do have to be effective to be worthwhile and many are more as preventatives than cures. ETA: I am going to stop using the term 'Italian tune-up' would the term 'very spirited driving' make sense?

I think we all had similar thoughts as all of RicardoM's but perhaps not so bluntly. I am not so sure the timing chain area will be totally catastrophic but obviously it sounds like it needs checking, danilob put he regularly checks the valve clearances but did not put whether this includes having to make any adjustments, unless that is what he meant and he was chasing his tail on this even more than normal. A loose chain can make a lot of noise without doing too much to running or damage, I know as an idiot garage put a cheap chain on my car and thought I would be pleased about its low price!! *%$$*£^ garages and mechanics! All things considered the car sounds like it's pretty sturdy and danilob has done a good job rescuing it. Motul oils are generally good so perhaps the car has had reasonable engine oil & filter changes as to many people that is a full service on a car.

Personally I think unless you are putting the car to heavy or a lot of use you might as well hold off if you do not want the cost of oil, filter and flush. Ticking is not usually bottom end but type of sounds but one man's tick is another man's tock. If the car has ben sitting for some time then a service check of the whole car needs to be done and the sooner the better, the engine being less important than brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) and you would also want to check lights, visibility items and safety electrics. Cleaning and lubricating can make big improvements, but not miracles, and a thorough change of engine oil and filter is a basic and effective cleaning and lubricating operation. I would also use an engine flush this time if required and even perhaps use a less expensive cleaning type oil for the first use and then next time go on to a better oil at the next engine oil & filter change (possibly when the better weather arrives if changes are to be annually).

danilob, the Seafoam fuel additive gets mixed reports and reviews and I am not sure why you would need it after using fuel cleaners before and having injector spray patterns perfect now btter whilst you are carrying out the other cleaning to put in two or three tankfuls of petrols with greater cleaning additive packages (like Shell V-Power as an example) . You did not mention air filter(s) engine (cabin) but given the other work I assume you have renewed them. I am not sure the Seafoam intake spray will achieve much but if you want to give it a go and I could well be wrong. For the engine oil if it is sludge'd up and dirty then you may want to consider using an engine flush before this oil change, then using the Castrol GTX Ultraclean until your next oil & filter change when you could consider a better oil. Just one example of an engine flush. - https://www.millersoils-shop.co.uk/engine-flush Note if you use a Haynes manual they usually have some errors and omissions in them, as with all information you get from any source including me!) cross check against one, two, three, other (reliable) sources. If you use an engine flush follow the instructions for that then for the oil change as well as the usual instructions - for all jobs allow loads more time that you think it will take, never be in a rush if this is the first time you’ve done an oil change on this car have the loan of an oil filter removing tool have the existing engine oil as warm as possible before draining to be able to get as much existing oil and muck out as possible remove the oil filler cap as this will allow the oil to drain better protect yourself from hot oil when draining leave oil to drain for as long as possible to get as much existing oil and muck out as possible towards the end of the drain pour some warm(ed) fresh oil in to act as a final flush and allow to fully drain * - make sure you have the oil filter seal on the old filter or off from the filter housing on the engine - * clean sump plug and drain hole and filter housing opening before fitting the filter smear clean oil around the seal of the oil filter and fit filter hand tight then as instructions – do not over tighten replace sump plug (and new washer?) steadily refill oil, start with about two thirds of the stated quantity of oil (as refills never take the dry fill quantity stated), leave to settle for a while, top up very slowly, better to need to add more than overfill, leave to settle before checking again, continue until it is near the maximum mark on the dipstick start the engine and check for leaks (after your first drive check for leaks again) then, if you want to or it is appropriate, top up to maximum as per instructions. I hope this also helps, good luck let us know how you get on.

ETA: I was still typing as skomaz posted so my post is at the step before his. What is the state and history of the engine oil, any service history of evidence of servicing and maintenance done on the car within say 6-12 months? If the battery was dead perhaps it has sat around for a while, or just not cared for. A video or photos of the engine would help for this enquiry, showing to me the oil on the end of the dipstick resting on a white paper towel, the air filter held up to the sun if possible, the engine bay generally, all to get a general idea of the condition of things. Even faulty parts work better in cleaner and more lubricated engines. Unless Fominas is the type that likes getting elbows or armpits deep into oilly muck and tearing an engine apart before breakfast and rebuilt the gearbox by lunch. I totally approve of the clean hands approach of plugging a scanner in but as can often happen, especially with the older cars (though still young to me) the scan tool does not give the answer always.

The idea of having the engine warmed and running whilst spraying is to get the cleaner in and eventually out of the tailpipe in one go, revs are up to put in a good volume of air and petrol mixture to help clean off and clean out the cleaner and muck. The switching off and leaving the car standing for 5 minutes after I guess is to allow for the cleaner to soak in whilst the engine remains or gets warmer from the heat soak from switching off. If you then go for a good ('Italian tune-up') drive you will then further blow out the internals and the plugs with more cleaning air fuel mixture - so as at the end of even just an 'Italian tune-up' by itself the spark plugs would be clean through blow-out use.

Personally I dislike the coin style as I was given a top pocket pen clip style Mac Tools linear bar version and I find it difficult to see and read (shiny chrome finish too) I prefer individual feeler gauge blades. It was only last year I got a full set as I was fed up of having to use two blades combined to get the correct thickness on my previous set. I like my bent wire feeler gauge but it was metric and the car is in imperial. I thought you had sorted this. Are you running the car at this time with an electric load of lights, heater blower, (wash/wiper, radio, etc.)?

Gasket depends on gasket material, if paper you can make your own easily. I thought your car has a metal cable throttle so no need for scan tool and you can disconnect the sensor wiring, even if it did put up an error code it could be deleted at a later time and of no matter as the throttle body will reset with normal use. Bear in mind you are already fully opening the flap and cleaning so resetting anyway. As with the video these deep spray are usually done with the can running at revs to get cleaner and muck through and out of the engine and without the car stalling causing a build up anywhere. What about any carbon build up anywhere inside the manifold or ports, same cleaner or different cleaner. Apparently you can get cheap borescopes that can be connected to smartphones so you could inspect inside the manifold and elsewhere to see if the job is worth starting and as with that Chris Fix video how effective or not the cleaning was (I wasn't over impressed with the results he got, or his driving of another person's car, very lazy auto style of driving even of a "stick shift").