nta16

Well what a surprise, I did not win much off myself as the odds were very low. 😄 Personally I would hesitate to do this, my guess would be that any timely effective cleaning agent like this might be a bit aggressive to use unless the reservoir was removed from the car and open both ends. Thinking about it if I was using the swabs to clean as I suggested earlier with the parts still fitted to the car it might be best to also give the swabs a light coating of the fresh clean oil to reduce any abrasion and retain any fibres to the swab rather than transfer them to the fitted parts and components. Cleaning the fully open parts on a bench where you can turn them and drain and dry them and use perhaps low pressure air to remove loose debris from the part or cleaning materials is different to when the part remains fitted. When fitted liquids and debris can pool or catch and remain inside the parts as they may be difficult to remove or they may be flushed to other areas as the system is partially closed. I hope that makes sense, it is not a clear explanation even for an English person to read!

"I've seen people and I know some people that, through that energetical transformation, through the power of prayer, through the power of gratitude, they manage to turn the most toxic food or most polluted water, into the most healing water. Because water reacts and scientists have proven that, that molecules in the water react to our emotions, to what is being said.” Sporting Hero Novaxx Djokeapric

Yes ! Er, Yes, but which, no do not tell us let it be a surprise (but I have a small bet with myself which you have ordered). Being serious, it cold weather now. If when you emptied/drained you can get get a swab in you can check for any contaminants / crud / bits (of seals) and if there are any use more swabs to remove as much out as you can before flushing and refilling with fresh fluid. Rub the first investigative swab across a white tissue to see any fluids and bits and to also see how the 'lifetime fill' of original oil compares with the fresh. Good luck, you can wait for better weather (sunny and mild(-ish) here today).

I wouldn't have a clue about anything the VW Group would do and TBH I didn't check if the national service list had been updated from the one I had, which I updated when I saw the prices had been rounded up. Thinking about it I (think) It was you that told me if they changed the plugs they'd have probably also changed the air filter at the same time otherwise I wouldn't have looked it up in the bill for the 4th year service. I honestly never paid that much attention as I get enough hassle from owning my own car without worrying about another. As I put I was surprised the air filter wasn't an annual change. What is a genuine VWG air filter as I'm sure someone would make it for them but these big companies are very good at keeping secrets, does it look like it's made by anyone you known, not personally, I meant another company (or boxed in Germany made in China). 😄

Do please both of you please try to keep up. thomasaspin (in a spin more like) - you're moaning at at the OP for going off topic! 🤣 And most of your points have previously been dealt with within the thread and linked from, or as you might perceive it a tangent. It's a pity you weren't with VW when they were designing and building this concept as they need simple solutions. Septular - forget the skim reading no one is suggesting the German engineering at it's finest can and will be cured by any oil, and I can assure you if anyone deserves any sort of placebo from the motor trade it's me! In buckets loads. So, c'mon, instead of philosophising what is the solution or answer to the OP's problem - no not his thread drift, to the car engine?

@roottootI read the oil thread and other and the links off those pages but I will be honest and say as I got to page 5 on your just reply please thread and then saw it was of 20 I stopped, I'll take your summary in your post here thanks. I am going to persist with the oil as in the oil thread I saw nothing exceptional for oil or temperatures really, I agree with you that the quantity of oil in the system, and if it was short, is a factor. Either I missed them (always possible) or you used to be in marketing and possibly slightly oversold it but other than a mention of Motul perhaps I saw nothing of track oils let alone race oils (which I didn't mean) and the best they could buy, There was a mention of VAG Longlife 3 which unless it meant the 0w-30w I'm not sure would be extra special oil necessarily, to get to the 0w specification would generally require a better oil and if the VRS could happily take 0w-30 the range of better oils would widen and of course probably flow better when cold and as possibly a better overall oil be er, possibly better overall. Oil temperature seemed inconclusive and I wasn't sure whether all posters were referring to a VRS. I've had my wife's 1.2 TSI SE in oil temp treble digits a couple of times and I wasn't going that fast for that long. IIIRC I posted somewhere here that it ran to 93-96C within 5 miles of an 8 mile journey last December, I haven't a clue what oil was actually used by the Dealership only what they put. If I had a VRS regardless of all I've read, in fact more so because of it I would be using an oil similar (or even better) than I've suggested, belt, braces and a bit of string coverage, I might be wasting the extra cost moneywise perhaps but until that was proven I'd feel running on a better oil. I was also looking for Lucifer's guides thinking he was a poster in the thread. 🤣 I've got to go now to get fish 'n' chips, I don't want to but I made the mistake of mentioning the subject to the boss and it was democratically decided that's what I'm getting and gonna have, and not an ale in sight!

Sorry I got called away I'll have a look later, thank you. I was think of the faster warm up at cold but also the longer lasting wider margins of protection. You don't want out and out race oils, I was thinking road use type completion (drive to, on and away from the track with the same oil).

Signature (tag?) - Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Cheers, Nigel. www.sportingbears.co.uk That's what (is supposed, Professional version no doubt) to go into my wife's standard Mk3. That'll be a problem always. I like this local oil blender, this might help a little (or you could ask Millers Oils about their other motorsport oils that might be suitable and can be used for road use) - Millers Oils EE Performance C3 5w-30 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-74218-millers-oils-ee-performance-c3-5w-30-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

You could have a look and see if there's been any updates that hopefully rectify the issue without causing a different issue, try here. Update portal - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ And generally, recalls. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions I've been using DAB radios in home for decades and the reception quality seems to have dropped to me. The DAB in the UK was (is?) different to Europe but now we have DAB+ apparently. My home radios have FM bands but I never listen to them. Try listening to AM MW or LW in the UK if you want nostalgia and enjoy knob-twiddling. - https://getdigitalradio.com/faqs/what-is-dab/#:~:text=The UK's first national DAB%2B,national commercial Digital One multiplex.

With a standard factory twin-charger I'd want better quality oil than the Dealership use (or charge you for) and I don't know the change intervals but I'd consider more frequently, both more so with a soup'd up car. Perhaps owners have tried top quality oils but I'd hope for better cold flow and more protection cold and when very hot with them as I expect some would make use of the twin-chargers rather than always on economy runs. As well as at least fast-road use oils I'd also expect to keep on top of the whole car servicing and quality air filters (or cleaning) and quality fuel, you certainly can't run these cars on the cheap and expect good performance and reliability. I must admit many years back when I was taken out in a Mk2 at a charity day at Bruntingthorpe I thought the young driver might be pulling my leg when he said it was a 1.4 with turbo and supercharger but I was very impressed with the performance.

We had a car geared at 16 mph/1,000 rpm in 5th so I do understand and I wasn't thinking of Dragtrip starts (I used to spectate at Santa Pod many decades back) and we've had three pots at 599cc turbo, 657cc turbo, 659cc turbo and I had a 997cc non-turbo. It depends on how quickly someone expects the car to pick up from 22mph in 4th giving 40-60% on the accelerator pedal, I'd want a near empty motorway roundabout for that, but it shouldn't cough, suggesting hopefully just a bit more servicing needed. The Auxiliary has near enough 170k-miles on the clock with perhaps a minor DIY service last November and a scan last summer that only showed something about air-con and there is a full service history. Other than that the car's history has yet to be told, I'm always sceptical about what a full service history means as often when presented they are not very detailed or comprehensive and often done in tardy stages. Taking average annual mileage can mean so little on an older car particularly if there's been more than one owner. When getting an old car I always suggest carrying out a staggered-staged fully service check of the whole vehicle in between driving it, engine is mid-priority and you won't be surprised that the battery is higher priority, after all safety stuff like brakes, steering, suspension (all three include the tyres), lights and visibility. But of course I understand this type of thing has gone out of fashion and people just want to drive the car and deal with matters as they arise. Most servicing, even computer side, still boils down to clean and lubricate, in the case of spark plugs now if it's not a blow-out run it's replace.

I was only pulling your leg. I'm that old I remember Optimax, and I think there was another name before that. The quicker the engine get to operating temp the better, using the oil temp gauge rather than coolant gauge will give you a better idea of when the engine is properly up to temperature. It also depends on what engine cooling and controls over this. Once the engine is away from standard there are a lot of considerations. What engine oil do you use (make, model, grade) I'm just curious? (note my 'signature' if you can see it(?))

When you try are you perhaps in an area of no DAB reception - or if you have the other radio (Swing) does it get DAB (I didn't look)? But I did screen snip the imagine and luckily haven't deleted it yet.

Sorry I misunderstood I thought you were over-concerned about l/100km. What speed do you coast at on a large roundabout of the motorway? Using an appropriate scan tool you should not need to guess too much. The appropriate spark plug socket or tool, three will be videos. I thought you serviced the car last November, did you only attend to some bits on the engine? Always helps to have a fully charged battery particularly during winter in a cold country. That depends on how much electricity the car is using at the time, it could even be that the battery needs to help out so is being discharged rather than charged. Think of all the electric items you use when it is cold, snowing and dark, also think of how much battery reserve you might be using up when the engine is not running but you are still in the car. I do not mean to be rude, and bear in mind we all were once, are you quite new to driving and/or car ownership?

Until someone more knowledgeable comes along. Being a SEL I assume (always dangerous) its a Columbus 'radio', like this. - More info about the radio and car in the Owner's Manual from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

I briefly saw on the television news here the other day that the airport roof/cover collapsed under all the snow. We are expecting warmer than average 13C here on Saturday, been coldish but no snow so far this winter but we do not see much snow here.

Yes they do stuff for old British cars, this is what I use - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/classic-sport-high-performance-20w50/ and I use this in gearbox and rear axle - (modern motorsport oils) - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/crx-75w90-nt-2/ They do standard engine oils and modern motorsport (including Ginetta and Hewland). - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/product-category/motorsport/ If you did not like the idea of CFS (competition fully synthetic) on the label they also do EE Performance Engine Oil 10w40. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-engine-oil-10w40/

I would just say if Kobayashi was still using Shell Nitro then it might be a bit old and even watery as it's been (back to) V-Power for quite a time. 😁 During or between one of the lockdowns, forget when, my car got a bit of spitting misfire and when I checked fuel delivery quantity and pressure to "the twins" I saw the fuel was slightly milky hazy, topped up the tank (25litres at full) and next full refill with Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99 (E5 labelled 0%). Wind forward to January 2022, another trial fill of Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99 (E5 labelled 0%) car runs really smooth, but I don't have any fancy (or annoying) computers on my car only cable, rods and bits of metal. This afternoon, Mercs and BMW occupying the right hand of the two empty dual-carriageway lanes, even though they were RHD models. Later an Aldi wanted close inspection of the inside of my tailpipe as I held space from the other cars in the lane, unable to cancel the cruise-control no doubt. Fortunately I don't have such driver confusing features on my car so once the cars in front pulled over lane I could clear the the plugs and leave the Aldi diminishing in my mirrors. For as long as I could see him he remained in the outer lane regardless of traffic. Perhaps as we were travelling west into the sun he felt comfort from seeing the central crash barrier close, he must have forgot his Aldi sunglasses, I have brown eyes.

And at lower price, so there is your answer, no worries about possible problems with mixing, you could buy 3 litres and give a very thorough flush and clean. That is databases for you. I think you like 10w-40, the following is the type of oil I would use in my road car if I was you, I use Millers classic high performance sports oil in my engine and a modern coemption oil in my gearbox and rear axle. I have done for a number of years, and it is a road only use car used in UK winters and summers. - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-115229-millers-oils-cfs-10w40-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

I have just spoken with Mark from Fuchs UK (sounded like he was working from home) he told me they never carried across Pentosin CHF 7.1 so he has no data on it and has not sold it all the time he's worked there. He said mixing of additives might cause foaming but looking up 2000 Felicia 1.3 MPI (AMH) on the database gives CHF 11S . He said about flushing all the old out. https://fuchs-eu.lubricantadvisor.com/advice.aspx?lang=eng&country=gb&type=a8187c2b31540d9bae842be3b07a74cc If you want the old style mineral get the Febi 06162 from Opie Oils (they only have 3 in stock) or from elsewhere then you have no concern, what you loose in postage you gain in lower cost compared with 'synthetic'. Fuchs is the direct line but that means nothing really. You can email or phone a person in Febi that deals with your area, Thanassis Andreadis, Regional Sales Manager, see link on page, how much he would know about oil I do not know, I would guess they might buy. - https://www.febi.com/en/contact/contact-persons/ Me personally I would use the 'synthetic' from my usual oil brand (Millers Oils) but I do not think they sell in Greece - but it is not my car that I have owned for decades. Those are just different marketing names really, same as using the description 'synthetic', if you have a look back at Mobil loosing their battle for the term but I think IIRC Amsoil claim to be first for, there again Scotty says the only real one is a by-product from the middle east. The thing is a good oil is a good oil regardless of its marketing or description and a better oil is a better oil, I like the extra margins of use, abuse and component failures and better performing and slower deterioration when hot and cold because I have an old British sports(-ish) car that I like to drive as it would have been driven when it was new. As I try to point out to the old-farts that own old cars like mine even if they buy say an engine oil with the same brand and name now as in the 1960s it will not be the same oil it will be a different blend and additives package, but it will be better than in the 60s, but oils have changed and improved a lot since the 60s so a modern 'synthetic' oil suitable for the car will be even better normally.

Great stuff. It was probably my fault previously by trying to give you more direct links I made it harder, you can teach me IT now! Really, that seems odd to me. I've no idea what you get with new cars and what should be done for the customer before handover as it's 15+ years since we had a new car, I'm not a fan of English car sales garage and Dealerships, they even let down the Japanese cars, Lexus when they first opened in England lead the way but they only had the flagship LS400, showed Jag and Merc Dealerships how it should be done though. Daewoo when they first set up were entirely different, no sales people, 3 years warranty even Honda weren't, so I knew the other brands would get them, went into Vauxhall and GM done (in) for both. Great that yo are sorted.

I am not sure about (I can not find information on it). Febi 06162 that I linked to before at Opie Oils IS mineral oil plus the price of £9.50 ties up. - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-180272-febi-bilstein-06162-central-hydraulic-and-power-steering-fluid-green-chf-71.aspx If you hover your cursor over the small photo of the bottle on this page it will magnify the image and you can read this in various languages. - https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/06162 NOTE: Febi Bilstein Parts Finder only list 06162 as with BMW, this is the problems with databases, but they have "General Service Number - CHF 7.1 | Pentosin CHF 7.1" By the way, the Febi 06162 Safty Data Sheet (15-01-2021) has "Solubility in water - immiscible". - https://cdn.partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/pf-document/CLP06162_GB.PDF As Opie Oils only has three 06162 in stock my guess is this is because it is old stock being used up as it may no longer be available from who ever Febi Bilstein get it from - and on Bilstein Group Partsfinder I could also not find M 6162 but that may be because it is not for automotive use. Look up your car here, I tried look but I do not know what engine code you have. - https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/ Most 'synthetic' oils are just mineral oils improved a bit so I am not sure that changing to 'synthetic' would give any difference other that an improvement in the oil quality but you will want to chase this down and the only way you will be near satisfied is to contact Fuchs.

Now as you've seen I am not a mechanic or expert in anything so this is only my impression from what I've gleamed. CHF 7.1 seems to be a mineral oil with an additive package that includes ZDDP (ZDDP the wonder ingredient to old-farts that own "classic" over-priced, over-valued old cars). There was a suggestion that the ZDDP might not float well in other PS fluids, I have no idea as ZDDP would be only one element of a package and all have to interact. 'Synthetic' engines oils can contain ZDDP as the one I use does. I very much doubt if CHF 7.1 is hygroscopic as a mineral oil and I doubt any of its additives would be either but I know nothing of chemistry. You could try mixing exacts amounts of CHF 7.1 with water and see if they exactly separate out to the exact amounts but over how long, 5, 10, 15, 20 minutes/years. It is suggested it is a slow evaporative I do not know how hot the steering pump and reservoir would get from their position in the engine bay but if you have any rubber hoses in the system perhaps they could also leach but if you have only done one small top up in all the years of use I doubt you have any leaks worth worrying about. If you marked your spare CHF 7.1 you may be able to confirm evaporation, also if the container has any water on the sides or bottom of the CHF 7.1 it might give you another clue to hygroscopicity. Additive packages may separate from the oil given enough time so your container of CHF 7.1 may need a good shake before use, whether the additives deteriorate with age and/or lack of use I have no idea. I have attached a PDF sheet from June 2007 update release which you may already have and tells nothing new I am afraid. Pentosin CHF 7-1_V1_GB_.pdf

@D.FYLAKTOS I had a thought (this is a rare occurrence) you would need to check any Stop Leak product you use is compatible with the particular power steering fluid you use. I had a quick look at (only) one product only as an example but they do not give any real details of the product, in this case it was Blue Devil Power Steering Stop Leak, I do not have a clue whether it, or others, are any good but you might need to keep topping them up if you have a bad leak. - https://gobdp.com/product/power-steering-stop-leak-00232/

Fair enough, I'm a bit disappointed you'd not the courtesy to answer my question when I've answered yours but as I've put before if anyone doesn't like or disagrees with my posts they can ignore the posts but I'm happy to be corrected when I make a mistake or get something wrong, which I often do, but I could do without the repeated chasing when I don't. The Radio Manuals have - "A manual entry of the code is normally not necessary" so if experience is that it's never been necessary I'll accept that and try and remember it. Attachments for conformation, 2009/5 Owner's Manual. - Radio(s) manual(s). -