BerkCo

Hi! The old cap fitted on my new expansion bottle . It should fit

Hi , I think you mean Gearbox . I have a manuel 6 speed gearbox , with MRV code . I did the same mistake by filling more than it needed and it leaked from the breathers. I had filled 2.3 liters ( as written in workshop manual but it refers to a complete teardown gearbox) in the beginning and correct amount should be 2.1. The mistake being done is that the oil you drain and oil you fill should be near temperature and in some cars you should take it for a drive and check it again. I changed mine at 120000 km and will change it soon again at 180000 km . Oil viscousity should be 75W . NOT 75-90, it is for bevel box and rear differential.

Hi Carlston! Thanks ! I jave just tried that and it is almost exactly 1,75 turns to left and 1,75 turns to right. The car feels and drives safely. I was just curious to why the steering wheel alignment changed when i changed the front struts. Could be that I changed it to Sachs parts and not the OEM parts, could be slightly different. Or may be i tugged a bit more on the spindel ( steering joint attached) causing the the steering wheel off centering. Just curious, so I dont do same mistake next time 😃Maybe next time i should detach it . I dont know

Alright, I agree with garages being opportunistic and taking advantage of customers. I have seen it happen many times. I should have done something wrong when i replaced the strut than, that effected the steering wheel slightly somehow. I didn't take out the steering ballpoint from the spindel. I did exactly as shown in this tutorial video. https://youtu.be/SVb1ntLnpeQ

Nobody has taken the steering wheel out and put it in wrong splines. I changed front shock absorbers, bearings and coils . When I was done, I noticed the slight change in the steering wheel. Everything is torqued to spec and every bolt is double checked. Why the slight change in the steering wheel ??? I understand your point wheel alignment and steering wheel being straight when car going straight, two different issues. But wheel alignment solved the steering wheel issue for me.

Wow! 1000 times 😃 I have noticed a slight change on the steering wheel not being straight while the car is going straight, after I changed struts. So next 1000 times I change it , it will not need an alignment than 👍

I forgot to write on my previous comment that, wheel alignment is necessary after the shock absorber or coil spring change. I had it done in a professional garage. For those of you who are going to do this replacement yourself, can contact me about the details. Happy to help!

I don't have Led, just regular halogen lights

I changed the front suspension items at past weekend. It was quite straightforward beside some tugging and pulling on lower control arm and a top strut mount bolt I had to cut.

Yes, I got the right part number from Sachs customer services. It should be Sachs 315 910, Sachs Coil springs 993 820, and Sachs top mount and bearings. I have changed front shocks on a Volvo before. I studied the procedure both with YouTube videos and with workshop manuals. I think I have all the tolls needed, of course there is gonna be some rusted bolts . Typical Sweden, road salt .

Thank you for your reply! I will be changing the coils as well, because why not 😃 So I don't have to do the same repair procedure next year

Hello from Sweden! I own a Octavia mk3 ,1.6 TDi, 2015, station wagon ,4×4. I noticed my front right shock to be leaking( same amount of dirt on the left side) and the metal round ring around the right shock to be broken. I already ordered a pair of Sachs Shock Absorbers , bearings. Will change both sides next week. Car doesnt sound strange over bumps or so . A good call or do you consider as an early change? The car has 171 000 km on the clock and original shocks...

Hello from Sweden! I own a Octavia mk3 ,1.6 TDi, 2015, station wagon ,4×4. I noticed my front right shock to be leaking( same amount of dirt)on the left side and the metal round ring around the right shock to be broken. I already ordered a pair of Sachs Shock Absorbers , bearings. Will change both sides next week. Car doesnt sound strange over bumps or so . A good call or do you consider as an early change?

Hi, I recommend that you look at that video https://youtu.be/eTmsq1znWzY

Thanks for the enlightenment J.R.! You wrote that " The wear on the plates is insignificant, the results of the particles in suspension on the pump system are very significant." What do you mean? Is that something that affects service intervall ? So I can understand you correctly.

Hi Guys! I did a haldex service recently. I had already done a service for 15000 km ago in January . The little " filter" was really clean last time and there was just a little contamination in haldex fluid. I have done the last four services myself and trying to understand parameters that affect the change intervall. My conclusion so far is the winter is taking a toll on haldex system( snow and ice in sweden) and haldex works harder. So i will be doing haldex service once a year , i drive about 30k km a year so i think it should be fine.

Hi guys! Just did my first haldex gen 5 service . The pump was changed 27000 km ago. And as you can see in the picture , the little filter is full of ****. So glad that i cleaned it, in with the new oil, pump the motor with vcds and fill it again. I managed to fill about 700 ml . The oil that came out was about 550 ml. I guess they didnt bother to fill again after priming the pump .

Hi from Sweden! Just did my first haldex gen 5 service . The pump was changed 27000 km ago. And as you can see in the picture , the little filter is full of ****. So glad that i cleaned it, in with the new oil, pump the motor with vcds and fill it again. I managed to fill about 700 ml . The oil that came out was about 550 ml. I guess they didnt bother to fill again after priming the pump .

Hi from Sweden! Just did my first haldex gen 5 service . The pump was changed 27000 km ago. And as you can see in the picture , the little filter is full of ****. So glad that i cleaned it, in with the new oil, pump the motor with vcds and fill it again. I managed to fill about 700 ml . The oil that came out was about 550 ml. I guess they didnt bother to fill again after priming the pump .

It is 1.6 diesel 😀

Hello Guys, Thanks you very much for your replies. I have a pressure bleeder that i can attach to reservoir and add pressure. i purchased from amazon so there won't be any problems with air escaping in to the system. I am not going to change any brake lines or calipers. Just renew the brake fluid. The second picture i shared is the Swedish Erwin which I obtained with my chassinumber so it should be the correct. It says: " Bleeding (airing out) order: 1) Caliper Front Right 2) Caliper Front Left 3) Caliper Rear Right 4) Caliper Rear Left I live in sweden so steering wheel is located on leftside. Just to add more confusion to the situation. I called another Skoda dealer and asked the mechanic about the bleeding order. His suggestion was to begin from the furthest away from brake fluid reservoir and make your way to the nearest the reservoir. Once again thanks for all replies! Greetings from Sweden!

Hello from Sweden! I was attempting to do this service myself but i gave up because of the confusion about different bleeding orders in different workshop books. Skodas Workshop Manuals sequence is rr,rl,fr,fl but the Erwin says fr,fl,rr,rl . I will leave it to Skoda dealer to fix it. Another problem i had was to get the airfilter housing of,( to bleed the clutch slave cylinder) i managed to free airbox from all hoses,clips...But I couldnt lift it up..Doesnt worth damaging it before i know better...

It is actually G13 . I had ordered undiluted G13 , the brand is SWAG. I have diluted it with unionized water . 60% G13 and 40% water because I live in Sweden. 😀

Hello Everyone! New in forum.. I just changed my expansion bottle which had "mit silikat " on it. Mine was the version with two walls . It feels much safer now with the tea bag away from the car 😀 You can see the old one and the new one in the pictures below