WezFab

Just a quick post to say goodbye for now. We're trading in the old Fabia for a vehicle that will better fit a growing family. That said we're not moving too far from the nest with a VW Touran! Thanks to all for your help with the various tinkering on the lovely orange mk2 - it did us a very good turn and so did you. All the best, Wez. ✌️

Can't stress this enough, Just finished the job on our mk2 there was lots of cleanup/sanding/filing required to get the fit needed without any gaps left by the cutouts on the new flanges. I opted to leave everything in place and just cut the old one out - if anyone else does this, make sure you have access to a reciprocating saw as there is not enough room for much else to complete the front side cut. If i did it again i'd preferably have something to make the cleanup simpler too, perhaps a wire brush attachment for drill/grinder. Anyway.. managed to get a good seal with the Norma clamps and sealant for good measure, no leaks yet! 🙏 Cheers'n

Also wondering if anyone would advise adding sealant when doing this bolt on job?

Little update, decided to spray a little water on my flex joint and take a look.. does appear to be blowing a bit to the rear (aren’t we all). Got some video and pics for your enjoyment 😆 Measured up for appropriate Mikalor clamps too. Time to get busy. Video:

Great advise thanks 👌 - I've not looked under the car yet - assuming it's not already had a bolt on replacement fitted.. anyone know if on a mk2 i'll need to cut out the original first? thats probably going to be the nasty bit.

Thanks will do, it's not an expensive fix either, will take a look sooner than later.

Looks like a neat job in the end, I've just got an advisory for this stating 'minor leak' will try take a look before next MOT I guess 😆

point taken. and oh my word!!.. I see copper all over the place. would you guys just patch these up (bit of soldering and heat shrinking) or replace the door loom (if that’s a thing) ?

Intermittent, but by units of days working/not working. Car mostly sits on drive these days tho. I was having the yearly hoover of the boot, floor mats and toddler carseats this afternoon - took the opportunity to try the key locking/unlocking combos, single and double key combinations, lifting the windows switches and holding etc… nothing changed. I did inspect the driver side door bellows which looked to be sealed very well, I didn’t open them up to check the connections, would you advise this course of action?

Just now experiencing this same issue with our mk2.. im guessing there is a thread for Mk2s but google sent me here. Hoping the wet/cold weather and damp are the issue as none of the non invasive tricks I’ve tried have worked so far. I’ve just removed the roof bars that have been on there far to long. I have always wondered about water ingress where the roof bars breach the door seals will let you know if drying out helps.

These settings were somewhere in Device Manager, advanced port settings in the com port properties tab. Think I lowered both send and receive rates from 2048 to 1024. latency showed up as excellent for me after this. Glad it’s working well enough to do what you need tho 👌

Excellent, you may also find these tips useful, tho some of them weren’t relevant to XP. https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/faq_2.php#2.5 My connection latency was. ‘Poor’ and I had trouble connecting to the ECU module consistently until I changed these bits.

So far so good, I’ve been testing its capabilities to read soft coding, which Lite seems to be fine with. I’ve not tried any changes yet but the UI appears to allow it. Screenshots on this thread Not going to make any changes yet till I can confirm the values I need for my modules.

I’m also a Mac user and I had exactly the same problem with the ‘driver corrupted’ warning after using the drivers from Gendans link in their instructions. I called Gendan and they directed me to the correct drivers for XP which are working great. I think the driver version you need for XP is 2.08.24 it wasn’t that obvious how to find the link on the FTDI website. Chap on the phone also told me to manually choose the driver instead of letting windows find it. hope you get it sorted 👌 Thanks for this. That Nathan G thread looks awesome. And 100% yes I am not jumping in to make any changes. My wife has already made it know that she will not be happy if I brick the car. 😆 I will be avidly backing up any existing coding and making sure I have some thorough documentation on my specific modules before doing anything.

Hey thanks for this, great to know it’s been done. Your list of requirements also matches the info I’ve gathered so far so this gives me confidence. It looks like the re-coding part is now my main blocker, I’m confident I can get the replacement switches and make a small loom for the additional connections, however, I do now have access to VCDS-Lite and a third party cable that appears to work with my vehicle, many thanks to Wino and this thread.