WezFab

Just a quick post to say goodbye for now. We're trading in the old Fabia for a vehicle that will better fit a growing family. That said we're not moving too far from the nest with a VW Touran! Thanks to all for your help with the various tinkering on the lovely orange mk2 - it did us a very good turn and so did you. All the best, Wez. ✌️

Can't stress this enough, Just finished the job on our mk2 there was lots of cleanup/sanding/filing required to get the fit needed without any gaps left by the cutouts on the new flanges. I opted to leave everything in place and just cut the old one out - if anyone else does this, make sure you have access to a reciprocating saw as there is not enough room for much else to complete the front side cut. If i did it again i'd preferably have something to make the cleanup simpler too, perhaps a wire brush attachment for drill/grinder. Anyway.. managed to get a good seal with the Norma clamps and sealant for good measure, no leaks yet! 🙏 Cheers'n

Also wondering if anyone would advise adding sealant when doing this bolt on job?

Little update, decided to spray a little water on my flex joint and take a look.. does appear to be blowing a bit to the rear (aren’t we all). Got some video and pics for your enjoyment 😆 Measured up for appropriate Mikalor clamps too. Time to get busy. Video:

Great advise thanks 👌 - I've not looked under the car yet - assuming it's not already had a bolt on replacement fitted.. anyone know if on a mk2 i'll need to cut out the original first? thats probably going to be the nasty bit.

Thanks will do, it's not an expensive fix either, will take a look sooner than later.

Looks like a neat job in the end, I've just got an advisory for this stating 'minor leak' will try take a look before next MOT I guess 😆

point taken. and oh my word!!.. I see copper all over the place. would you guys just patch these up (bit of soldering and heat shrinking) or replace the door loom (if that’s a thing) ?

Intermittent, but by units of days working/not working. Car mostly sits on drive these days tho. I was having the yearly hoover of the boot, floor mats and toddler carseats this afternoon - took the opportunity to try the key locking/unlocking combos, single and double key combinations, lifting the windows switches and holding etc… nothing changed. I did inspect the driver side door bellows which looked to be sealed very well, I didn’t open them up to check the connections, would you advise this course of action?

Just now experiencing this same issue with our mk2.. im guessing there is a thread for Mk2s but google sent me here. Hoping the wet/cold weather and damp are the issue as none of the non invasive tricks I’ve tried have worked so far. I’ve just removed the roof bars that have been on there far to long. I have always wondered about water ingress where the roof bars breach the door seals will let you know if drying out helps.

These settings were somewhere in Device Manager, advanced port settings in the com port properties tab. Think I lowered both send and receive rates from 2048 to 1024. latency showed up as excellent for me after this. Glad it’s working well enough to do what you need tho 👌

Excellent, you may also find these tips useful, tho some of them weren’t relevant to XP. https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/faq_2.php#2.5 My connection latency was. ‘Poor’ and I had trouble connecting to the ECU module consistently until I changed these bits.

So far so good, I’ve been testing its capabilities to read soft coding, which Lite seems to be fine with. I’ve not tried any changes yet but the UI appears to allow it. Screenshots on this thread Not going to make any changes yet till I can confirm the values I need for my modules.

I’m also a Mac user and I had exactly the same problem with the ‘driver corrupted’ warning after using the drivers from Gendans link in their instructions. I called Gendan and they directed me to the correct drivers for XP which are working great. I think the driver version you need for XP is 2.08.24 it wasn’t that obvious how to find the link on the FTDI website. Chap on the phone also told me to manually choose the driver instead of letting windows find it. hope you get it sorted 👌 Thanks for this. That Nathan G thread looks awesome. And 100% yes I am not jumping in to make any changes. My wife has already made it know that she will not be happy if I brick the car. 😆 I will be avidly backing up any existing coding and making sure I have some thorough documentation on my specific modules before doing anything.

Hey thanks for this, great to know it’s been done. Your list of requirements also matches the info I’ve gathered so far so this gives me confidence. It looks like the re-coding part is now my main blocker, I’m confident I can get the replacement switches and make a small loom for the additional connections, however, I do now have access to VCDS-Lite and a third party cable that appears to work with my vehicle, many thanks to Wino and this thread.

Thanks, yeah I guess the coding will be specific to my modules. May have to keep digging with my module part numbers. Ah yes, I did register here but seemed to hit a paywall for any information. Maybe I was looking in the wrong place.

Most welcome 😆 Any recommendations on where to look for coding info on my modules? or do I just need to save my pocket money and pay ross tech $99?

Well! I just had a play with some of the com port settings via device manager, Win XP doesn't have a FIFO buffers checkbox so instead I just: - Lowered the data transfer rates - Switched to com4 instead of 3 - Switched the system appearance to Windows Classic Style. Now when running VCDS connection test the latency shows 'excellent' instead of 'poor' as previously. And the ECU module connection seemed very stable 🎉 I was able to happily open the 're code' section of both modules without any connection issues. A great success in my books. now I just need to do some more research around which numbers to change for my cruise control retrofit plans.

Just found some FAQs around resolving the 'flaky' connection issues on Ross-Tech's site. Going to leave it here for reference and try it out later. https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/faq_2.php#2.5

Based on previous research and additional loom connection required to ECU I believe it is, but I’ll be happily proven wrong. I’ll have a look at your guide and check at some point. No problem, thanks for all the pointers, very happy to have a working VCDS for my vehicle 🎉 and at such a reasonable price point. I’ll keep working at the ECU connection thing. Maybe someone else out there has seen the same problem. 🙏

I just nipped out to try this. Unfortunately running the engine and cycling ignition made no difference. Same behaviour as in the video I posted. Yes that and central electronics I think. As far as I know yes.

Thanks for this, I tried all three of those Baud Rates. Actually I don't think any of them made any difference but I did discover that all the control modules I tried other than engine seem to work just fine with any baud rate set (which seems odd). I started a Control Module Finder scan but bailed out after watching it for 20mins then reading the manual that states it can last 45mins, here is the output after i cancelled the scan: Address 01: Engine Protocol: KWP2000 Controller: 03C 906 024 B Component: MARELLI 4HV 0896 Coding: 0000071 Shop #: WSC 13765 Address 03: ABS Brakes Protocol: KWP2000 Controller: 6R0 907 379 C Component: ABS 8.0 front H05 0002 Coding: 0002127 Shop #: WSC 13765 Address 08: Auto HVAC Protocol: KW1281 Controller: 5J0 820 045 Component: Klimaanlage X0850 Address 09: Cent. Elect. Protocol: KW1281 Controller: 6Q1 937 049 F Component: 0000 BN-SG. 2S36 Coding: 25742 Shop #: WSC 13765 Address 15: Airbags Protocol: KW1281 Controller: 1C0 909 605 K Component: QN AIRBAG VW51 Q5 0010 Coding: 20814 Shop #: WSC 13765 Address 17: Instruments Protocol: KW1281 Controller: 5J0 920 910 B Component: KOMBIINSTR. V2823466 Coding: 17403 Shop #: WSC 13765 Address 19: CAN Gateway Protocol: KW1281 Controller: 6N0 909 901 Component: 000E GATEWAY CAN 2S36 Coding: 00014 Shop #: WSC 13765 Address 25: Immobilizer Protocol: KW1281 Controller: 5J0 920 910 B Component: IMMOBILIZER V2823466 Coding: 17403 Shop #: WSC 13765 Again my lack of knowledge here will show but, it appears to have a CAN gateway, might this mean I can also connect with a newer protocol? Is 4HV my engine code? Accessing the Engine Module is where the connection gets temperamental, it seems to drop connection and then reconnect quite sporadically, i took some video of this. Also eventually it decides to give up connecting to the engine module with the error in the screenshots below "Too Many Communications Errors To Continue". The last two screenshots are just showing the connection test results and also a screenshot of what I think is the central convenience module.

So, with a little help from Gendan support, (many thanks and kind regards) - I installed the correct xp drivers and got the com port setup. I only had limited time to play over my lunch break but I did manage to: plug it in to the car select control module 01-Engine VCDS-Lite showed me the engine screen and some numbers that i don't yet understand I hit fault codes and it loaded a screen that said 'no fault codes' or similar Going back to the Engine view the buttons were suddenly greyed out and the status in top left suggested that there was a connection issue and it was trying various baud rates? Possibly I need to adjust the baud rate in the options to get this working more stable? any suggestion? I hope to have another play with this after work and take some screenshots, but despite the above it does seem to work if badly, with my 07 mk2.

I won't! - I'm no stranger to a little debugging 😃 Thanks for the pointers. Assuming cable/drivers/software are setup correctly, what should I expect to see if the car is/isn't supported?

@AnnoyingPentium I'm not sure maybe @Wino could confirm, but possibly based on the model and age of your vehicle being a mk1 might mean it's even more likely to be a KL protocol. so this should work great for you.