ACOUSTIC

I have a 2013 Skoda Yeti 2L Diesel /81kw TDI CR. About 2 years ago with approximately 40k on the clock I got an engine light on with a fault code P040300 (EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION CIRCUIT) . Long story short , I got a quote from my local dealership to replace the egr valve and decided that I could not afford a second mortgage to pay for the job, so started looking around for quotes. My local garage said they would be happy to take on the job but quoted me silly for the new egr valve , although the labour cost was very reasonable given the total pig of a job it was. We agreed that if I supplied the part they would fit it and just charge for labour. I was able to get a Pierberg egr valve direct from Germany at a fraction of the price that my garage had quoted, hoorah!!! I thought. I collected my car paid the bill and set off for a test drive. Within five minutes of leaving the garage I had engine light on and the same fault code again. This time I decided that I would not throw more good money after bad, so capitulated raised the white flag and took my car to my local Dealership!. It turned out that my local garage had fitted the new valve correctly but did not have the latest software required to get my car to recognize the new part. The Dealership made the necessary software updates, presented me with an eye watering bill, and I drove off into the sunset for a happy two years motoring, until last week!!!. Engine light and the same fault code, here we go again. I have noted that in this conversation about egr problems several people have talked about having the egr deleted or mapped out and blanked off. Does anybody out there know the legal implications regarding this process? I have read somewhere that if a vehicle was designed and built with an egr system, then by law at the mot inspection it must be functioning properly. Also would it not invalidate your insurance, because remapping and deleting the egr would be an undeclared modification to the vehicle? I would be very grateful if any body can help or advise on this subject,

Hello Threadbare, I agree that it does seem quite an accesive price rise in two years. I have contacted Skoda UK asking them to confirm the information regarding cambelt replacement interval that my local dealership gave me, and as yet have not had a reply. I was however contacted by a bot telling me that a human will reply within 48 business hours, I think that equates to about 6 days. They offered me live chat with one of there customer service advisors ( another bot?) But I have decided to wait for an email reply. If they do ever reply to you I will post the relevant information on Briskoda.

Hello Toot, Thanks for the info and links, Yes the cambelt and water pump were both replaced by my local Skoda dealership in 2018 at 5 years, mileage 32,703 cost £543.00 . Almost 5 years to the day they contacted me again to tell me it was again time to replace the cambelt and water pump. I contacted them to book the car in and thats when they told me of the VAG change of policy regarding replacement interval. I think I will contact Skoda UK directly to find out whats going on. The fact that this is such a huge change and the very costly consequences if the belt should snap makes me very suspicious . Thanks Again

Hello all, I am the owner of a 2013 2L TDI Skoda Yeti. A couple of weeks ago I was contacted by my local Skoda main dealer to tell me that my cambelt was due for replacement. From memory I think the replacement interval was 60,000 miles or 5 years which ever comes first. Today I called the main dealer to get a quote for the job and was amazed when the service dept person told me that the VAG group including Skoda had changed its cambelt replacement interval across the entire VAG range to no time limit and 150,000 miles. I am struggling to understand what great revelation VAG has discovered in the durability of its cambelts to make this massive change in the replacement interval advice. I cant help wondering if this is intended to cause engine failure to a huge number of vehicles in order to persuade us to buy electric vehicles. Please let me know if you have had any experience of this new development.

Plenty of things to try then. Thanks again.

Hello nta16, thanks for the tip, I will give that a try. It seems so odd that the belt is so easily affected by the temperature, I went out to the car last night when it was a lot cooler and the belt worked almost perfectly with just a slight hesitation. Thanks again.

Thanks again Urban Panzer, I have noticed that pulling the belt at different angles does make a difference. Oddly today the temperature dropped considerable and the seat belt is almost performing normally. I will try adjusting the height tomorrow and see if there is any improvement. Thanks again for your help.

Many Thanks, Urban Panzer. The information you provided is invaluable and has given me the confidence to get on with the job.

Hello, Went out to our Fabia today with a view to popping to the shops only to find that the drivers seat belt would not pull out from the door pillar. Eventually after a lot of gentle pulls and constant stops I was able to get enough seat belt out to connect with the stalk. At the time the drivers door was in full sun during this recent heatwave and I think that the problem could be related to the temperature affecting the release mechanism somehow. Sure enough as the temperature dropped the seat belt became easier to pull out from the door pillar. I can only conclude that the high temperature was somehow effecting the release mechanism , perhaps by expanding metal parts or melting grease etc. If anyone has experienced this problem I would be very interested to know, and specifically if there is any way of preventing this from happening.

Hello, I am having to replace the drivers door lock on our 1.2 TSI Fabia. Does anyone know if I need to remove the key lock barrel in order to remove the door lock mechanism. And if anybody has done this job before I would be very grateful for any tips or advice.

Hello and thanks Breezy_ Pete, I was very concerned that replacing the lock module would turn out to be another job that required Main Dealer Software to complete the job. I wondered if you had any advice on replacing the lock module. My Haynes Manual suggests that work on the door lock requires a high level of competence, so I would appreciate any help or advice on the subject. Regarding the old door loom, not only were the wires in the trunking badly damaged but the plastic end caps had hardened and the locating tags broke off on removal. Sadly its gone to meet its maker.

Thanks Gaz, Having looked at the video you attached I agree that the control module is well worth investigating. As explained in the video it seems to be a question of the car not knowing that the drivers door as been opened, so automatically engages the alarm and locks the doors. If I replaced the control module I am wondering would my keys have to be reprogrammed to synchronize with the new module or is the module just a mechanical device separate from the cars electrical system? any advice would be most welcome.

Hello All, I have a 2010 Fabia Mk2 1.2 TSI with a central locking problem. When I open the drivers door with the remote and get in to the car the courtesy light goes out and the car locks itself. It seems that the central locking does not recognize that the door as been opened and activates the security alarm as if I had not opened the door after unlocking. I tried opening the front passenger door and getting into the vehicle and everything was ok , the courtesy light went out after a while but this time the doors did not lock themselves. I checked the driver door wiring loom inside the rubber trunking on the hinge and found several wires with damaged insulation and decided to replace the entire loom with a new genuine Skoda part at a cost of £118.00 , sadly this did not cure the problem. I have subsequently re-synchronized both keys and replaced the batteries, but still no joy. I would be very grateful for any advice if anyone has had a similar problem.