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Kostas123

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Everything posted by Kostas123

  1. Perhaps it's the airbag control module? Can't find anything about LINDA online...
  2. Well you are missing an entire underside plastic cover so it's likely you just hit something
  3. Weird, no clue if it's related. Below 5C there should be an electric heater that works until the engine gets to ~60C but I don't know if Netherlands cars ship with those. Perhaps you have air in your cooling system? Does the radiator hose get hot, or does it stay cool even when overheating?
  4. Fixed it for me. Does the engine cool down when cabin heat comes back? Or does yours never come back? Because mine was "sticky", there would be no heat and engine would overheat only in the beginning, but after 10-20 minutes everything would fix itself. Though I do feel like I have air in the system (from incorrect bleeding after pump replacement by the mechanics)
  5. In the options list my Rapid has 1N3 which means it has electric Servotronic steering. If you have 1N1, then it will be classic hydraulic steering. From what I understand, the hydraulic models have the pump under the battery tray, however even the maintenance manual doesn't show anything about replacing steering fluid, perhaps no actual hydraulic steering Rapids even exist?
  6. The power steering is electric, there is no user accessible power steering fluid tank.
  7. you get electric heater heat until the engine starts heating up, and then the electric heating shuts down. are you actually not overheating? try going onto the motorway. also, when your fan is spinning, is your radiator hose cold?
  8. I think you should go to a specialist instead of your mate, no one could afford cars if fixing issues actually needed complete disassembly...
  9. What about any car settings and customizations you have made thru the radio? Are those still active, or have defaulted to different settings?
  10. So brake bleeding needs traction battery disconnect? He also claims he disconnected 12 volt battery too... Seems way too excessive...
  11. I do understand why most techs are cautious, there is a lot of energy that wants to be released in those battery packs... but I do have a feeling that most of this fear is just unfamiliarity - after all, regular vehicles have a huge amount of energy in the petrol tank, even more than EVs. Yet most techs would gladly use an electric pump (same electricity that causes sparks) to siphon the petrol if the tank needs dropping, or simply use brushed motor power tools around the tank (what if fumes are present?). My prediction is that the risks will be weighed and most of these "electric" jobs will get quicker with less overhead, like letting regular mechanics change the charge port motor... And even if I'm wrong, the general public will not tolerate simple jobs taking over a day just to wait for some specialized mechanic, and others will not tolerate a high price for a seemingly simple job - and take it upon themselves to fix it. We will definitely see some fires from such jobs, but most will succeed, thinking that the dealership tried to rip them off...
  12. most likely yes. but wouldn't the techs know how to operate the disconnection hardware? or are they going to wait for their "battery specialist" colleagues while their shop is burning down?
  13. Well that's pretty sad - wouldn't all techs need to know how to disable the battery? In case of a sudden issue? I'd imagine after warranty ends many people will simply do this themselves with a 20 pound part instead of multi-hundred pound bill for "specialist services"...
  14. Keep in mind that with other radios you will lose access to car information and car settings. I believe those settings aren't saved in the car itself, so removing the radio will revert any changes made with the radio.
  15. Newer rapids (MY16+) have a light sensor in the instrument cluster so it does light up even when lights are off, but only when there is sufficient daylight hitting the instrument cluster (so you would turn the lights on when it's dark). Then the brightness with lights on is adjustable in the radio. Swing 1 was already replaced with Swing 2 which has car settings so it's no longer a problem.
  16. funnily enough, the paragraph within the "note" about instrument lighting in the 2016 Rapid manual is absent here... seems there isn't any mention about adjusting the brightness!
  17. My manual writes about setting the brightness in the "lighting and visibility" chapter, no idea how this chapter is actually called in the English manual. Page 60. It says "When the lights are on (excluding DRLs), dashboard lighting brightness can be adjusted in the "Infotainment" system (and then has a direction to the infotainment manual).
  18. It's usually set in the infotainment system, provided yours is high-end enough. If not just look in the owners manual
  19. it's because the glowplug light was flashing.
  20. makes sense why the engine management threw an error. did the car also wen into limp mode (i.e. very slow)?
  21. My 1.4 sometimes also gets a little amount of white stuff on the cap but the oil changes look fine, probably just condensation or something similar. A proper scanner should show the actual issue. Open the manual - it states that flashing glowplug light doesn't have anything to do with glowplugs, but it's rather a fault of engine management. On petrol engines it's the same as having EPC light solidly on.
  22. Depends on the year. Probably 6JA905217AWHS. Last three letters are the color code.
  23. Inspect the bulbs, is it actually blown? Also I reviewed the wiring diagram, and there isn't much that can go wrong - lights and the switch connect to the "Onboard supply control unit". The switch gets power from fuse C14, but also from C31 (probably just the illumination of the switch). I believe the switch is fine, since the switch position is sent via a single wire, so if the gauges light up at night, then it's working. The control unit itself is a black box within the current flow diagrams, however it seems that the front lights go thru the C1 and C4 fuses. In that case I believe no lights at all would work, not only the low-beams. What's left is the wiring itself and connectors. Perhaps corrosion?
  24. I don't believe the low beam light should light up on the switch, only the sidelight symbol lights up on mine. Does the interior switch backlights come on when you switch it on? Does the dash (with the gauges) lights up when you turn the switch from sidelights to low beams when it's dark outside?
  25. Don't limit yourself to Škoda specialists only, many VAG cars including Audi, VW and Seat also use the same engine and thus those places should also offer diagnostics to you.

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