Igol

I have the plastic HD ramps which just clear the front spoiler by about 1mil. But only on the right side as my drive annoyingly has about a 5 degree slope. I used some offcuts of ply screwed together in a 300 mil long step to give me 10 mil to play with and stop that nasty plastic scraping noise. Servicing is no different than any other car I've had, other than you need a wind back tool if the rear brake pads are being replaced and the VAG love of multi-spline sockets.

2015 2l TDI about 97000 miles. Garage said the timing belt had been swapped when I got it about 3 years ago so I assumed that was everything. It was a potential summer job last year that I never got round too. Just stopped at the lights outside work and the engine tone changed, sounding like the exhaust had blown, accompanied by what I thought was steam. Limped into the carpark and turned out the steam was smoke with a strong smell of burning plastic and now a squealing noise. Other than that zero symptoms at all. Tensioner is a Gates one but the water pump is VW so I guess that wasnt swapped after all.

I'm just getting round to fixing my smoking, throaty/squealing 2l diesel after having it laid up for a couple of months. I've pulled the top cover and I'm easonably happy it hasnt stripped a tooth, also fairly sure that the waterpump pulley really shouldnt be at a slight angle and that was the cause of the issue. So I've got new timing & serpentine kits ordered and crankshaft oil seal as thats leaking a little too. Then I come to examine my finest Chineseium crankshaft locking tool which has raised this question: How much crank should a crankshaft locking tool have if a crankshaft locking tool has a crank - to the left? It seems a little excessive and pics of other tools dont seem to confirm or deny my suspicions.

I think the obvious question is why? Unless of course you live in a Utopia with unpotholed speedbump free roads.

There are plenty of turbo recon merchants out there who would sort a blown turbo for a fraction of the cost of new. Even a second hand unit off ebay sent off to one for a work over would be cheap by comparison to a OEM one.

The EGT error was not a P545 Error by any chance? Mine chucks it up based on ambient temp and gives the flashing glow plug warning light appearing (and disappearing dependent on the temperate climate it annoyingly dislikes) stopping the regen. That leads to the EML and eventually we hit the DPF warning if I ignore it for too long. I keep a simple ODB reader in the door pocket and clear the P545 fault every so often to avoid it becoming a problem. I think you may be on the money with a previous keeper choosing to ignore/hide the DPF issue and clogged that and then buggering things up further along into the engine. I'd be tempted to drop the DPF and clean it off the vehicle and while you've made the space pull the EGR valve to see what condition this is in as the least expensive option. Is the Turbo actually bad?

Christ I'm glad I do all my own work, Haldex was a bit of a fiddle with levelling on the drive but came out with a nice clean filter when I last did it. It failed its MOT on a ball joint last month - 20 quid for a new one and it took longer to drive from the MOT Garage to the motor factors, home and back for the retest, than it took to swap out the ball joint. Hate to think what the labour would be on that without the part.

After a few months of better MPG and silent running I eventually got round to pulling everything out of the dash/glovebox and began looking at a rather nice Blaupunkt stereo with actual buttons. The new facia panel was ordered and then the tyre pressure sensor decided to ping. Nothing interesting just normal loss over time so all four back up to pressure and.....bugger...unlike the works Yeti the reset is in the headunit. Still thats fine I can do it off ODBEleven. Now whether it was down to it being the old version or because I'd pulled everything out, ODBEleven showed a grand total of 5 control units which didnt include the ever present P545 error. And then I thought there was only one thing I hadnt tried intentionally - turning it off and back on again. So I got the head unit and main box out of the garage and plugged them back in. And there was the clock on the screen. So the interesting number will be the MPG when I go to work today.

Keep an eye on it as it will be a to do job at some point in the future (that's entropy for you). After that have a look on any Car factors site and cross reference with the manufacturers parts catalogue or if you're stuck after that I've always found the technical depts are always helpful.

Pretty much everything you need is here: Skoda Octavia Mk III 2013 Workshop, Service, maintenance & repair manuals downloads inc VRS - Hypermiler.co.uk And it is much nicer to use than the Haynes Book of Lies (which we dont have anyway). Stretch bolts on the sub-frame so you really shouldnt reuse the very expensive bolts....ahem. With the cost of Poly compared with standard I couldnt see any real advantage, other than ease of fitting so I stuck to Febi. I bought a press about 5 years ago and have spent an awful lot of time wondering how I managed for the other decades of fettling.

Appreciated. It does appear a little terminal especially with the the AUX/USB socket being U/S too. PM with VIN on the way.

Well possibly not. But as I already mentioned the fuses are all fine and indeed present as I have managed to restrict all poltergeist activity to the Bank 1 EGT sensor. But maybe @pab567 can indicate if there is indeed a serviceable fuse within the unit or which wire is which so that I may test them for continuity - you know, useful information.

Hopefully our resident expert @pab567 will have a 'just press this' answer :)

After the easiest ball joint replacement I've ever done I now have an MOT. All fuses in main box and cabin box have been checked and are fine. I've cleared all fault codes and run the scan again which gave me a zero result from the Multimedia module and this single code Car: Skoda Octavia RS 4x4 Year: 2016 Body type: Estate Engine: CRMB Mileage: 154803 KM 19 Gateway --------------------------------------------------------------- System description: GW MQB High Software number: 5Q0907530AF Software version: 1224 Hardware number: 5Q0907530F Hardware version: 128 Serial number: 0003735960 ODX name: EV_GatewLear ODX version: 013020 Long coding: 030100040F087300EB000258080F00010001050000000000000000000000 Subsystems: System description: J367-BDM Software version: 0223 Hardware version: H08 Serial number: 52201H11004290578046 System description: E221__MFL-PR6 Software version: 0150 Hardware version: H02 Serial number: 000000000A0988160715 Trouble codes: U105400 - Information electronics control module 1 No Communication static Which does sound a little terminal to me. Advice appreciated.

Thank you Gents. And that was interesting. ODB11 gave me the following list. 03 Brakes System description: ESC Software number: 3Q0907379T Software version: 0393 Hardware number: 3Q0907379C Hardware version: H32 Serial number: 52025000000098 ODX name: EV_Brake1UDSContiMK100ESP ODX version: 034033 Long coding: 1C078A912426096F0078070041C8293851249000E08294F214635072C009 Trouble codes: C101B01 - Right front ABS wheel speed sensor Electrical error Intermittent C101C07 - Left rear ABS wheel speed sensor mechanical malfunction Intermittent U140000 - Function restriction due to insufficient voltage Intermittent C114602 - Tire pressure monitoring display Signal error Intermittent 76 Parking Assistance System description: PARKHILFE PLA Software number: 5Q0919298K Software version: 0054 Hardware number: 5Q0919298 Hardware version: H12 Serial number: 39431519202096 ODX name: EV_EPHVA2CAU3700000 ODX version: 003021 Long coding: 0131061041 Trouble codes: U140000 - Function restriction due to insufficient voltage Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent 19 Gateway System description: GW MQB High Software number: 5Q0907530AF Software version: 1224 Hardware number: 5Q0907530F Hardware version: 128 Serial number: 0003735960 ODX name: EV_GatewLear ODX version: 013020 Long coding: 030100040F087300EB000258080F00010001050000000000000000000000 Subsystems: System description: J367-BDM Software version: 0223 Hardware version: H08 Serial number: 52201H11004290578046 System description: E221__MFL-PR6 Software version: 0150 Hardware version: H02 Serial number: 000000000A0988160715 Trouble codes: U105400 - Information electronics control module 1 No Communication static U006500 - Vehicle Communication Bus E Performance Intermittent U101100 - Supply voltage Voltage too low Intermittent 17 Dashboard System description: KOMBI Software number: 5E0920951B Software version: 6420 Hardware number: 5E0920951B Hardware version: 312 ODX name: EV_DashBoardVDDMQBAB ODX version: 009046 Long coding: 27A40800A590A60001886A011000000000000000 Trouble codes: U101100 - Supply voltage Voltage too low Intermittent U111000 - Function restriction due to communication interruption static U111000 - Function restriction due to communication interruption static U111000 - Function restriction due to communication interruption static U110100 - Component protection active Intermittent 15 Airbag System description: Airbag VW20 Software number: 3Q0959655AS Software version: 0200 Hardware number: 3Q0959655AS Hardware version: 013 Serial number: 003SQPEV1B3D ODX name: EV_AirbaVW20TS6VW48X ODX version: 001116 Long coding: 98CCC000000000005C5400CC008800000065 Subsystems: System description: SideSensor_Df Software version: 0887 Hardware version: 008 Serial number: 3576U0000009DA58C51S Long coding: 2D2D2D System description: SideSensor_Pf Software version: 0887 Hardware version: 008 Serial number: 3586U0000006E658C51N Long coding: 2D2D2D System description: SideSensor_Dr Software version: 0148 Hardware version: 301 Serial number: 3516RB11A69070000001 Long coding: 2D2D2D System description: SideSensor_Pr Software version: 0148 Hardware version: 301 Serial number: 3526R01706E07000000Z Long coding: 2D2D2D System description: FrontSensor_D Software version: 0149 Hardware version: 304 Serial number: 3556V658E4307000000B Long coding: 2D2D2D Trouble codes: U110100 - Component protection active Intermittent 13 Adaptive Cruise Control System description: ACC Bosch MQB Software number: 5Q0907572F Software version: 0400 Hardware number: 5Q0907572F Hardware version: H05 Serial number: 05071503271778 ODX name: EV_ACCMRRBoschVW372 ODX version: 001016 Long coding: 00000200FE0339 Trouble codes: C10DF00 - Brake temperature Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent B10E7F0 - Cruise Control Front Distance Range Sensor separated Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent 09 Central Electrics System description: BCM PQ37BOSCH Software number: 5Q0937086AK Software version: 0162 Hardware number: 5Q0937086AK Hardware version: 028 Serial number: 86582307153070 ODX name: EV_BodyContrModul1UDSBosc ODX version: 015002 Long coding: 0F000942424702FB07A04082B10C07280000000000000000000000000000 Subsystems: System description: WWS371 150530 Software version: 0570 Hardware version: 041 Serial number: 150611170818 Long coding: 065DDD System description: RLHS Software version: 0059 Hardware version: 037 Serial number: S5Y15M08D10H02M38S35 Long coding: 00885D System description: Sensor, DWA Software version: 0316 Hardware version: 005 Serial number: 000000000ZY151392PHP System description: Sirene, DWA Software version: 0311 Hardware version: 004 Serial number: 00000000000063044017 Trouble codes: U101100 - Supply voltage Voltage too low Intermittent U140000 - Function restriction due to insufficient voltage Intermittent U110100 - Component protection active Intermittent B202300 - Function limitation due to active protector function Intermittent 08 Air Conditioning System description: Climatronic Software number: 5E0907044Q Software version: 1002 Hardware number: 5E0907044Q Hardware version: H04 ODX name: EV_ACClimaBHBVW37X ODX version: 004131 Long coding: 02110104000100011005000000101000 Trouble codes: B10CD00 - Function limitation due to energy management Intermittent Multimedia however produces nothing at all. And I've just noticed the USB port wont charge my phone. So given the above either my car is on fire and I haven't noticed or its all legacy stuff which is linked to the ABS & Battery failure. I'm inclined toward the latter as my dash is clear of lights, the parking assist does its annoying beeping when I wait for the gate to open at work and the car is driving fine. Oddly it seems to be handling better and my average MPG has improved since the screen went blank. I did clear an EML the other day on my basic scanner caused by a P545 error (a long running saga) but that was the only one on there. Now the obvious thing is for me to clear these down on ODB11 and see where that gets me, which I will do after its MOT next week, I can live without the radio til then. I'll report back then unless you fine folk can see the obvious cause in the list above?

Just in case its relevant I'll add the full story. Other week my dash lit up with assorted errors on my 65 plate 2l 4x4 diesel. I'm fixing her car so as the angry beeping and error messages arent going to be too much of an issue for her to drive a couple of miles a day into work she uses the Octi until I can get the wheels back on hers. Couple of days later and after a little bit of digging I found that the NSR ABS sensor had died. New one in and car is happy again for the few trips I'm doing at this point as I was on leave. On Sunday I decide to pull the other 3 sensors, get the part numbers and then order them, on the logic if that one went the rest will be about due. NSF - came out with a little persuasion and WHT number noted. OSF - needed a little more persuasion and....Snap...Bugger! Off to get the drill and get the stub out of the hub carrier. Replacement ordered and a few short trips later Wednesday rolls round. I'm due in at 1400 and Postie brings my package at 1250. Wheel off. Sensor in. Wheel on. Changed and I turn the key. A lot of lights appear on the dash with a clearly struggling display telling me the battery is low and needs to be charged by driving. The starter motor doesnt agree with this method and clicks a bit - Bugger. The battery is 6 months old at the most, so I'm happy its been the short trips (possibly added load of all the warning lights have aided its discharge) and after a short 2 hour charge and jumper pack I get the car running with a clear dashboard. Then I notice that the clock normally displayed in the head unit when its off, is absent and the radio wont come on. Full charge overnight and a few commutes later the Columbus screen remains blank, with unresponsive buttons. So have the various spikes and voltage drops blown something in the head unit? Is it an easy fix (cheap may be the actual word I'm looking for)? I did notice the display was paired down when I replaced the OEM battery and figured it was a normal power saving feature. Especially as everything came back with the new one. Or am I looking at a replacement? In which case which one, because basically all I want is Dab Radio and maybe the media player, the rest of it is just pointless rubbish to me.

Well that solution lasted as long as it took to turn off the drive so I spent the 40 mins waiting to get in the local Tip wisely and went through each control unit fault highlighted on OBD11 until I got to ABS rear left sensor fault. Another expensive trip to the Auto factors and Bosch unit later turning off the drive made all the lights go away. I'll look at swapping out the other three now - but not the executive parts option.

As expected 11C temp this morning and a full charge cured the the ABS light and the remaining two I wiped with ODB11.

My 4x4 TDI threw some similar faults on the way to the local Motor Factors for my wifes car. ABS, Tyre pressure, front assist and service. She was in it about an hour before (when it was cooler) and had no such issues. My current theory is the temperature is upsetting it and it isnt getting a decent charge as I'm on leave and its been short hops. I hadnt reset the service after I did it about 3 weeks ago so thats probably pulling a milliamp or two and the software in mine appears to be very very sensitive when it comes to ambient temp. I have a regular P545 EGT sensor issue between 4C-13C which disappears either side of that band and it took some figuring out (and EGT sensors) before I learnt its rules. I've just reset the service interval and I'll stick the battery on charge this evening and see if its another feature I need to get a work around for prior to the MOT next month.

Me too. Still took 8 hours, but the majority of that was mm adjustments of height and then going back under to try to push the engine forward and the prop back. Wifes Fiesta was a dream by comparison at 4 hours.

Possibly a little late. Schaeffler Vehicle Lifetime Solutions Online Catalog LUK technical dept were very helpful in confirming the kit needed when I swapped out mine in Nov 23 on the drive. If your 2wd thats one less issue - oh the fun of getting that prop back in. Its not technically difficult to do but gravity really isnt your friend.

A very odd and dodgy bit of additional wiring there. Even my old Landy with wiring for 'aftermarket accessories' at least went to a block somewhere in the birds nest.... I mean wiring loom and not a wire forced into a fuse holder. Hopefully it'll stay running fine for you.

Where does it go? I get an odd idea it hasnt left the factory with a strange red cable forced into a fuse holder.

Thanks. I found them on LLLParts along with exploded diagrams so sorted

Would anyone have the part numbers for the stretch bolts for the sub frame? I swapped the clutch last year and dropped out the subframe for the extra room (4x4 TDI) and the workshop manual just says dont reuse them......well they would