ronery

Hi all, Simple question really - does anyone know if there is a power line anywhere in the door (driver's door in below example) which is activated only via ignition ? Door control unit pin 19 is alive all the time so can't use it for my purpose.

Snowr0, once you fix your wiring, you will probably end up with these 3 faults : Address 6C: Back-up Cam. (J772) Labels:| 5Q0-980-556.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 980 556 B HW: 5Q0 980 556 B Component: RVC Compact H18 0231 Coding: 0000000000000000000000 Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000 ASAM Dataset: EV_CamSysRVRVCPANAMQBAB 006009 ROD: EV_CamSysRVRVCPANAMQBAB_006_VW37.rod VCID: 392F230469D72BA2085-806C 3 Faults Found: 10490624 - No End-of-Line Programming B2013 00 [009] - - [ECU no DataSet] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 47 Mileage: 100734 km Date: 2023.07.04 Time: 20:32:16 OFF 13636352 - Control module not coded U1013 00 [009] - - [ECU not coded] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 47 Mileage: 100734 km Date: 2023.07.04 Time: 20:32:16 OFF 10489856 - No Basic Setting B2010 00 [009] - - [RearView system not calibrated] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 5 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 47 Mileage: 100734 km Date: 2023.07.04 Time: 20:32:16 Control module not coded => you need the whole string written at once so instead of trying to figure out yourself, you could start with existing ones over the net (I've found mine in vag coding database after trying 10+ different codings). For me the following coding worked at first (then I fine tuned) : 01840301A3002217000040 No end of line programming => you need to upload parameters to 6C (I've done with cheap ODIS dongle, which later turned out to be quite useful for other stuff). No basic setting / calibration => as ApertureS mentioned, you need the calibration board VAS 6350, check this topic I tried to DIY it (plotted the whole thing and then taped on an mdf board) however couldn't make it work. Nevertheless, it's not a showstopper - you still can use the camera, just can't rely on it I suppose!

Thanks, VC works error free now. Interesting I've lost the ABS coding after using new module routine but it's easy to fix with previous back-up.

Hi all, Does anyone know (and willing to share this knowledge:)) what needs to be done with ODIS-E in case Chinese VC + European car. If I understand correctly the guided functions will not work in this case so "advanced" ODIS-E functions are required. I have VAS6154 & VCDS but I don't have a clear image of what needs to be done after VC is physically connected. Mileage adoption ? CP removal ? Immobilizer ? Coding ? Thanks a lot.

Are you 100% sure that receiver's location has anything to do with side determination ? The system I know (other OEM...) uses wheel speed sensor edges in order to determine which RF transmission belongs to which wheel and receiver location is only important because of reception power. I'm trying to avoid RR bumper due to wiring to the front of the vehicle being a pain (I've experienced 2 times). Console on the other hand, is much closer to gateway, less trim to remove really. I understand what you're saying but in addition to my personal interest, it's also the convenience of direct TPMS. TPMS sensors are equipped with temperature sensors as well so adjusted pressure measurement is much more precise. With indirect TPMS, false warnings are likely (depends on calibration, OEM might choose to avoid false warnings but then "late" warning becomes an issue for some). And of course, direct shows pressures individually whereas I'm not aware of any indirect system where customer is informed via MMI.

My 2.0 TDI 150hp DSG feels the same @ normal or ECO as well. However, I don't fancy sport mode due to sudden high revs during downshifting...

Thanks wokwon, finally another use for my VAS 6154 Great thread, you gave me some idea - especially receiver location. I think I'll try to stick it somewhere in the center console or under one of the front seats.

Hi, I'd like to add direct TPMS to my 2018 Kodiaq & I'd appreciate if anyone can answer the following : - I'd put the receiver in cabin, probably as close as possible to gateway, does anyone know why in the earth it ended up in the middle of rear bumper ? Does anyone have experience with another location ? - Could anyone with direct TPMS fitted paste a VCDS scan ? Thanks.

I've recently fitted one to mine - instructions were not very helpful but I'll try to find the leaflet. What's the part number of your kit & do you have an image of the loom (so I could try to figure what goes where ? Do you have access to workshop manuals ? Even if you fit the camera (assuming it's a new part, not a used one) difficult thing is parameter upload / calibration (even coding via VCDS was nowhere near straightforward in my case). Do you have VCDS and more importantly VAG dongle such as 6154 etc... ?

Job done - I've used the blanking grommet which is used to cover the unused clutch master cylinder hole on dash panel. When I find time I'd like to polish my .ppt and put here as a guide.

varoom, thanks a lot - I got 4x new sensors (allegedly removed from a Tiguan MK2) and it works now! I shouldn't have gone for the cheap ones. Now I just need to remove front bumper (still no idea how to remove that 2nd screw just under the headlights ), find a nice opening between engine bay and cabin etc...

Just had my WP replaced so this one must still be working (old one stuck in closed position) engine used to get warm (never had objective data though). Anyway now my 2.0TDI 150PS reaches to 90°c with 3 mins at ~30MPH + 10 mins at 65MPH (ambient temp : 7°c). I hope this helps.

Hi all, Sorry this supposed to be my first post but actually it's the 2nd 😛 Since 2 months now I'm the proud owner of a 2018 Kodiaq SE L 2.0 TDI.

Thanks varoom, my sensors are from ebay - 4 of them only 28£ so probably similar sourcing to your Aliexpress ones . I think I'll order another 4 from skoda-parts.com - they seem to have relatively better quality OEM sensors.

Hi all, I wanted to install front parking sensors to my 2018 SE L (comes only with rear sensors) but obviously I underestimated the complexity of the job (hey, I'm an ECU engineer right - should be walk in the park). - Replaced the existing 4k PDC control unit with 8k PDC control unit - Replaced the dash switch panel so now I have the parking aid activation / deactivation switch, wired it to PDC control unit (both illumination and function works) - Added a buzzer for front sensors, wired it to PDC control unit (buzzer works during VCDS output test) - I haven't installed 4x sensors in the front bumper yet as I wanted to make sure that everything works before installation. I've wired 4x front sensors externally (so all sensors are in a box but correctly wired to PDC unit). Problem is when I put in reverse gear (or activate park assist manually via switch), only rear sensors seems to work, front sensors show distance about 1 seconds, then park aid system error pops up. VCDS shows "internal system fault" DTCs for all 4 front sensors (B10FX 04 [009]). Everything is wired according to system circuit diagrams so I'm not expecting wiring to be the issue, however there are too many new components so diagnosis is not easy. Any help is appreciated if you can, my questions : 1) Does anyone know the pin layout of VAG sensors ? Not crystal clear in wiring diagram but I assumed : B+ / signal / Ground as 1/2/3 2) Internal system fault DTC really doesn't help for diagnosis but does anyone know what exactly does it mean ? 3) Probably silly question but, sensors are not fit in place (even if wiring is correct) - could that somehow be the root cause ? 4) Even if 1 sensor is faulty, does it cause all 4 sensors' internal system fault DTC to be raised ? 5) When I "upgrade" parking aid system from rear only to front & rear, do I have to change the coding of other control units such as gateway or head unit ? 5) Any recommendations for next steps ? Frankly I'm out of ideas as I tried different codings / harness open/short circuit checks etc... Thanks for any help.