Bas750

Can’t or may not? I can tell you that both fit the 1.6 tdi greenline, as I run wintertyres on the 15”, and summer tyres on the 17”. ( not bothered with stupid rules here in the Netherlands, that said, at least not with car tyres/wheels)

Warm after an hour….that has been hot! Well worth investigating. Keep us posted!

For example. But also check your wheel center after a drive; the should not be warm or hot.

?

@feirmeoir calculated. ( the bc lies a little bit)

That is very poor indeed… my 1.6 tdi (stage 1 tuned 150 bhp, 5sp manual, egr deleted) does on average 50-53 mpg, and sometimes, in very good conditions 59 mpg. Are you running agressive tyres? And what size? There ain’t no brake dragging?

That is true… so obvious, didn’t thought ‘bout that👍🏻

Could be your alternator running on for a very litle time.( they do have a freewheelfunction on the pulley) But, it is a guess.

Diesel?

Yes, you are right, the circuit is simple. A month or two ago, my youngest had a polo 1.2 tdi 2011 model. Bloody thing went in limp mode because of a fault in the 5volt circuit.( can’t remember the fault code) , turned out to be a broken wire in the engine loom…. A real pig to find. Anyway fixed it. Sometimes things are not that easy, and sometimes we are makin’ it difficult for ourselfs.

Maybe late…. But w3w is not correct. rear light unit has w5w. Had them changed regularly in the 9 years I had me octavia.

Exactly that, but no pressure will be detected by the ecu. That short circuit can however be everywhere in the loom. Sorry to say, but there are people around who are breakin’ their head over the same problem, and still have no solution, this is a complicated one. But, TS might be lucky.

You have to be certain about the pressure, so hook up a manual gauge and monitor it. I bet, everything is normal. ( if not, I would start with the oil pump siff) It could be the instrument binnacle, but also a broken wire “somewhere” in the engine or main loom, and that, is no fun.

@MarcusJohn I suspect you refer to the coolant temperature? That is a “about” temperature. The oil temperature can be seen in your mfd between the speedo and the rpm meter. Oil temp is normally somewhere between 90 and 102. if you suspect the oilpump; check the pressure. ( workshop) This problem is not standin’ on it’s own, there are more owners who deal with this, and almost certainly it is a electrical problem. Have read the fault codes yet? If so… you probaply won’t find anything, but, you might be lucky.

WHAT? who told you that? That really is utter bullsh1t…. this your oil-pick-up-pipe, the toothed wheel and the chain provide the pumps rotation, if the chain fails, you will have NO pressure at all. edit; you cannot check the oil pump without dropping the oilpan.

Always, always replace shocks as a pair on an axle ( front/rear). 850 seems a bit steep to me…. 350 is way more reasonable. Shocks and springs are not that expensive, it is labour what makes it expensive. Replacing is a straight forward job for any experienced mechanic. I would either replace the top bearings or give em a good clean and regrease them, depending on state. bilstein/koni is top of the bill, monroe/ sachs etc all good, just stick to reputable brands. Edit: skoda/vag are NOT producing shocks nor springs, most of them come from sachs. I would not buy vag branded, because you pay a lot more, just for the vw- partnumber stamped on it.

@J.R. I know that the maxidot is lyin’, that is why I’ve a logbook in the car with the numbers, my car is slitghly more economical than that the maxidot suggests, which surprises me as my former octavia straight lied to me ( being (far-) less economical than the maxidot said) I also do (most-) of the maintenance myself as I’ve learned that that is the only way you know everything is done as you like. The gear indicator is a worthless thing which I ignore. You mention that our(?) vehicle will be very sluggish… mine has never been in the time I’ve had it, neither before nor after the remap ( stage 1, egr written out) it always pulled well. Bison did clean his inlet trajectory.

Quote: he seems to think… Now I don’t want to be the smart ass or the wiseguy, but I’ve learned to only trust numbers, not opinions. ( I’m not sayin’ he is not capable, don’t get me wrong here!) But do not rule out the obvious, new parts can fail, even engines, so you have either to rule out every option or live with it. I suggest that you do a compression test prior to the remap, just to be sure that anything mechanical is in good order. ( that is what I should do, you’ve done a lot already, go the extra step, it is not expensive)

Obviously power is going somewhere… about the high crankcase pressure; you did do a compression test to rule out a failed headgasket? ( it, the pressure, has to come from somewhere.)

Maybe stupid…..: but I read this thread again, but nowhere is mentioned that the brakes are not binding…. Did you check that? If you have no tyrepressure function, as mine doesn’t, it will not show up. ( my former octavia did have that function, and a binding rear brake showed through this function, as the rev’s didn’t match up with the rest of the wheels)

@Bison how do you drive it? Are you following the shift indicator or drive it as you like, I mean, drive it in a way the engine is not lauborin’? The 1.6tdi likes higher rpm. Mine is remapped @ 149 hp, and the egr is written out. Pulls really well, but did that also without the remap, but was runnin’ out of steam quickly, that is why I had it remapped. Don’t expect it to be more economical after a remap, it will be marginally.

70mpg even 84 mpg I can only reach when driving 30 mph all day long. But that is not real world. 60-70 mph equals 50mpg to 54 mpg. edit: using cc all the time.

I, personally would not bother repairing the damaged loom, I’ve replaced it with a new genuine one, more expensive? Yes. Less troublesome? Also yes. Cost around 120-130 € incl vat ( about same price in pounds),for that amoutn of money you will get an uprated, hanging, loom from skoda. Fitting time: ‘bout half an hour. Fitting it is no rocket science, just make sure that when you remove the old one to attach a rope on it’s end so you can pull the new one in the door ( that is the hardest part)

No need to welcome, I just don’t post that much👍🏻. it might be true that they retain their heat, but most people use s/s in cities, but the s/s was never intended to be good for the environment, it is intended for higher mpg which in turn would be be green. It is not green for your engine.

Better for the environment? No. how about catalysts which cool down during stop and have to come up to temperature, same aplies to dpf’s. Bad for the dpf/catalyst, bad for the environment because they only work optimal on operating temp, everything lower than that is no good for both. Best is to let the car run, except when you have to wait a long time.