nikasp

I did check that he has been logged in this February. Seemed very similar to my issue so do not see the problem with checking if he ever got to the bottom with it.

Did you ever resolve this issue and could you share what the problem was?

Did you manage to do this and have info and pictures to share?

Anyone who have a picture of this? I need to adjust one of the fogs on my Mk2 (2012).

Nope, they were really worn and corroded so scrapped them. And the car is only used for short drives near home - until they this 500 ride a few days ago… If OEM is not stupid expensive I’ll buy a new pair. I bought really cheap ones from AUTODOC, looked and felt “the part” but apparently did not cut it.

I’ve swapped the arms since they were corroded. The blades were swapped for new Bosch Aeroblades (used those many cars over the years) and pretty sure the new non-OEM arms apply too little pressure, tried to bend a “C” shaped part to get extra tension but did not work. Never thought of trying to bend the actual Bosch blades, does it really work since they are so flexible? Will try anyway. Leaning on getting OEM arms since this is super annoying even on a 2nd car.

Gah, bought non-OEM wiper arms since the original ones were worn and bad looking. Now the pressure is too low on the middle part and I get streaks and water film right in the field of vision. Quite tiring on a 6 hour drive with rain for 5,5 hrs… How much are new OEM arms and is this problem non-existing with originals? I have tried to squeeze one part to increase pressure but no luck. https://share.icloud.com/photos/09cOPDnIlnyBSkY9X5r2k_8kA

Nope, the car ran fine for 1,5 months and then suddenly stutter and EPC light plus limp mode (until stopped and started). No stop/start on this manual 1.2TSI. Batteries are not worth anything here so in recycling now.

Got some slight stutters and one limp mode after another month without any charging so deemed the battery as gone. With a new Bosch S5 005 the car runs perfectly. Wanted to buy a battery tester but that cost almost as much as a new battery so did not bother to check before I tossed the old one. All good now

A bit of googling gives that I may want to tap into a non-critical fuse such as the rear windshield wiper and hide a female USB connector to plug into. Will let you know what I come up with.

I just installed a Brodit ProClip mount and a QI-charger from a previous car. Will install a hidden bluetooth dongle behind the stereo with a two meter cable for the mic. 1) Any good advice where to put the mic? I am thinking around/through the sunglass holder in the roof and route it inside the A-pillar. 2) This would look neat with QI and BT, i.e. no cables EXCEPT for a super ugly USB-A to USB-C cable from under the handbrake all the way to underneath the phone holder. Is there any place I could get “the juice” from inside the dash so I could have almost concealed power?

The battery gives 12,7-12,8 volts but without starting, did not bother to disconnect it since we’ve used the car daily now. Last week I erased all codes, 2 were left: air condition flap and brakes. Tested an aircondition test cycle with the OBD-app, it ran the fan on highest and cycled through all different vents for quite some time. After that I put the battery on charge per above. Note: my ride does not have start/stop-function and is manual. The car runs perfect now, have asked my spouse to report any stutter or similar but she has not noticed anything. AND - when I checked errror codes now I got 0 (zero). Will regard the car as working fine for now. Thanks for help and ideas 🙂

Now it just runs flawlessly so will park this thread. The two codes I can find when scanning are unrelated to any stutter but now I have not felt after driving 2-4 hours and my spouse have not felt anything weird when driving either. Maybe the battery was rather flat, have let it charge for 5-6x24 hours som my Ctek charger regards it as full.

Looks like like this so I’ll try to adjust when Spring is here in Stockholm. Not a big issue but I like to chase away all defects possible and that does not cost much.

Will check if it looks the same on the Fabia. Would not want use brute force so loosening a couple of screws seems better. https://youtu.be/9YbWcSXBFSk

Another short ride today and it worked perfectly. Think I’ll take it to work Tuesday and Wednesday which means 35 km per day. Cleared the two faults I had and think both will reappear.

It’s not closing really bad but you can notice that the door have dropped a few millimeters by the A-pillar. When the door hits the catch it lifts those mm:s and aligns perfectly with the passenger door. Not super clear if it’s possible to adjust in a simple way net the hinges but hope so.

My Mk2 2013 driver door has also dropped very slightly. I am very picky and notice *everything* and wonder if anyone managed to adjust it using screws or the tougher jack variant? It closes a tad bit rough on the latch on the B-pillar but a normal person does not notice. I am however not normal, I hear and see everything and try to fix it 😀

Yeah, it’s our extra car so not dependant on it. Will test new leads and plugs an see how it goes and will have it serviced soon. Got rid of an annoying clunk sound today so the very rare stutter plus some air condition flap error is next. Red rust primer since I had to give up an cut the bolt due to rust.

Hmm. +5 degress and rain. Have had the battery on charger and went for an 8 km drive and 8 km back. I had *one* minor stutter on the whole trip. From cold on 3rd gear it hesitated for a second when accelerating. WIll order spark plugs and leads and see. Recall now that I changed "ignition cassette", don't know the english name for it, on an Opel Astra long ago. That car was a bit hard to start and also stuttered badly, I am nowhere near those problems now.

Have not had any time this week but remembered that the car had been standing for months before we bought it. Have run a battery recond programme with my Ctek charger, left it for over 48 hours. Unplugged for 24 hrs and got 12,8V which should indicate good condition. Drove a short run now and ran perfect but will go for a long ride and see. Aim to change spark plugs and leads any way. Will come back with how things turned out.

Hmm, puzzling. I connected my new OBDEleven NextGen and got the exact same error codes as the check from MOT last week. Erased all, went for a 8-10 minute drive. No ESP light or similar, only one single jerk/hesitation on 3rd gear when accelerating. The previous owner mentioned this could occur while the engine is cold but not when warm, something I thought I may be able to fix (or let the shop figure out). When I reran the check I only see "Brake system 01314" and the climate thingy "01272" regarding some vent flap. I did expect the 4 door and window codes to go away since I fixed a broken cable in the door, could not lock from remote),as well as the P227900 "intake air leakage". I noticed that the plastic air intake was not put together correctly and was almost falling apart. But all rest? Should I go for a longer ride and try to provoke the problem, usually happens in low speeds while accelerating. Also note that the weather is now mild as when I bought it and drove over an hours w/o problems, 3 degrees celsius and rain. I think I will order new spark plugs and leads as well. No clue when they were last replaced and I had this before erasing codes (cyl 4 misfire):

What did you end up buying?

Thanks, will come back next week. Express package but will not arrive until Tuesday (OBD Eleven NextGen).

I recently bought this Mk2 with CBZA 1.2 TSI engine. My own code scanner got bricked after an upgrade so I hope to get a OBD Eleven (NextGen) in the mail tomorrow. I went to where we are obliged to control the cars here in Sweden (MOT in England? ) and got the error codes scanned for cheap today though. Unfortunately the explanations are in Swedish, apologies for that. When I get the OBD Eleven I will erase and see which ones stay. I think the last 4 regarding door locks may not come back after erasing, I fixed a broken wire so all 4 doors and all 4 windows work now. Symptoms I have: With short intervals the EPC and ESP light blink and the car runs like sh#t, probably limp mode. When I stop and start again it runs OK for a short while. Sometimes the engine stutters on acceleration. The car worked fine when there was no snow, probably drove 3-4 hours after buying it last week. Now we're below freezing and it runs worse. I did get the orange engine light on yesterday, Stayed on but when starting this morning that was gone and did not come back. Bullet #1 did occur several times when I drove it to scan error codes. Maybe 5-6 times in a 5 km drive. This is intended to be our extra car so will not drive it and hope to pick off code by code with help from here Unfortunately our garage is completely full so I'll have to work outside in minus degrees and then it gets dark at 15:00 nowadays... Some stuff that I've googled: P019100 - "fuel pressure sensor unrealistic value/number". Seems a new one costs about 40 EUR. P227900 - "inlet air leak", read about some hose near the spark plugs may be an issue there, right? P030400 - "cylinder no 4 misfire detected". New spark plugs or should I have a stab at all the other stuff before then? I read here that it's no good to keep driving with this issue so will let it stay home until further.