nikasp

Thanks! I ordered that special deep slotted 22 mm socket so ready to go when it gets here. Been driving with this code for some time now and had no idea that it most certainly runs roo rich and explains the petrol smell outside of the car when idling. Also not good for the catalytic converter in the long run.

Similar location to this so not possible from above: https://youtu.be/yXka-05Xmcw?si=mQAkxl6IBFpfrqkM

CBZA I ordered the ”bank 1, sensor 2” lambda sensor but am curious where it sits, can I reach it with my special 22 mm socket from the engine bay or do I have to remove a lot of plastic and go from under the car? CBZA 1.2TSI

Thanks! Already tried yesterday but saw absolutely nothing. Did however test the reset procedure twice, thanks, and will see if my error code is gone

I can confirm the the first (embedded) video with holding three buttons worked in my 2013 Fabia (II). Started blinking and ran a calibration procedure. Let’s see if my error code about stuck flap that I’ve had for 1,5 years disappears now. Will ride once and test with OBDeleven.

@MrWarburtonJnr See that you have not been logged in for over 5 years but anyway; Do you recall if you could see this flap moving when lying on your back and trying to free the flap with a screwdriver? I have had this error code for 1,5 years but noticed no ill effects but a bit set on sorting this now 🙂 The weather is terrible but I think I will try to see today. When I try setting where the air should go it at least seems like I get air or no air in all of the front vents; floor, middle and windshield.

I did check that he has been logged in this February. Seemed very similar to my issue so do not see the problem with checking if he ever got to the bottom with it.

Did you ever resolve this issue and could you share what the problem was?

Did you manage to do this and have info and pictures to share?

Anyone who have a picture of this? I need to adjust one of the fogs on my Mk2 (2012).

Nope, they were really worn and corroded so scrapped them. And the car is only used for short drives near home - until they this 500 ride a few days ago… If OEM is not stupid expensive I’ll buy a new pair. I bought really cheap ones from AUTODOC, looked and felt “the part” but apparently did not cut it.

I’ve swapped the arms since they were corroded. The blades were swapped for new Bosch Aeroblades (used those many cars over the years) and pretty sure the new non-OEM arms apply too little pressure, tried to bend a “C” shaped part to get extra tension but did not work. Never thought of trying to bend the actual Bosch blades, does it really work since they are so flexible? Will try anyway. Leaning on getting OEM arms since this is super annoying even on a 2nd car.

Gah, bought non-OEM wiper arms since the original ones were worn and bad looking. Now the pressure is too low on the middle part and I get streaks and water film right in the field of vision. Quite tiring on a 6 hour drive with rain for 5,5 hrs… How much are new OEM arms and is this problem non-existing with originals? I have tried to squeeze one part to increase pressure but no luck. https://share.icloud.com/photos/09cOPDnIlnyBSkY9X5r2k_8kA

Nope, the car ran fine for 1,5 months and then suddenly stutter and EPC light plus limp mode (until stopped and started). No stop/start on this manual 1.2TSI. Batteries are not worth anything here so in recycling now.

Got some slight stutters and one limp mode after another month without any charging so deemed the battery as gone. With a new Bosch S5 005 the car runs perfectly. Wanted to buy a battery tester but that cost almost as much as a new battery so did not bother to check before I tossed the old one. All good now

A bit of googling gives that I may want to tap into a non-critical fuse such as the rear windshield wiper and hide a female USB connector to plug into. Will let you know what I come up with.

I just installed a Brodit ProClip mount and a QI-charger from a previous car. Will install a hidden bluetooth dongle behind the stereo with a two meter cable for the mic. 1) Any good advice where to put the mic? I am thinking around/through the sunglass holder in the roof and route it inside the A-pillar. 2) This would look neat with QI and BT, i.e. no cables EXCEPT for a super ugly USB-A to USB-C cable from under the handbrake all the way to underneath the phone holder. Is there any place I could get “the juice” from inside the dash so I could have almost concealed power?

The battery gives 12,7-12,8 volts but without starting, did not bother to disconnect it since we’ve used the car daily now. Last week I erased all codes, 2 were left: air condition flap and brakes. Tested an aircondition test cycle with the OBD-app, it ran the fan on highest and cycled through all different vents for quite some time. After that I put the battery on charge per above. Note: my ride does not have start/stop-function and is manual. The car runs perfect now, have asked my spouse to report any stutter or similar but she has not noticed anything. AND - when I checked errror codes now I got 0 (zero). Will regard the car as working fine for now. Thanks for help and ideas 🙂

Now it just runs flawlessly so will park this thread. The two codes I can find when scanning are unrelated to any stutter but now I have not felt after driving 2-4 hours and my spouse have not felt anything weird when driving either. Maybe the battery was rather flat, have let it charge for 5-6x24 hours som my Ctek charger regards it as full.

Looks like like this so I’ll try to adjust when Spring is here in Stockholm. Not a big issue but I like to chase away all defects possible and that does not cost much.

Will check if it looks the same on the Fabia. Would not want use brute force so loosening a couple of screws seems better. https://youtu.be/9YbWcSXBFSk

Another short ride today and it worked perfectly. Think I’ll take it to work Tuesday and Wednesday which means 35 km per day. Cleared the two faults I had and think both will reappear.

It’s not closing really bad but you can notice that the door have dropped a few millimeters by the A-pillar. When the door hits the catch it lifts those mm:s and aligns perfectly with the passenger door. Not super clear if it’s possible to adjust in a simple way net the hinges but hope so.

My Mk2 2013 driver door has also dropped very slightly. I am very picky and notice *everything* and wonder if anyone managed to adjust it using screws or the tougher jack variant? It closes a tad bit rough on the latch on the B-pillar but a normal person does not notice. I am however not normal, I hear and see everything and try to fix it 😀

Yeah, it’s our extra car so not dependant on it. Will test new leads and plugs an see how it goes and will have it serviced soon. Got rid of an annoying clunk sound today so the very rare stutter plus some air condition flap error is next. Red rust primer since I had to give up an cut the bolt due to rust.