Jo88Mak

Maybe the G13 was used in the Euro5 diesels, i have the CUPA-version of 2.0 Tdi. Heres a bulletin by North America Volkswagen that I found from the web. MC-10170208-0001.pdf

Hi. I wrote in the first post that i have a factory webasto in the car that I use when the ambient temp is below 0 Celsius. And I also have a windguard installed in the lower grille also when its below 0 Celsius. What I was wondering is, that if its normal for the car to get to operating temp when the ambient is like 5-8 Celsius, in the descripted manner that I wrote in the first post...starting from cold without any preheating and without the windguard.

Thank you all for the feedback. Im going to monitor the temps for a moment and when the weather gets warmer if the car doesnt seem to get to the normal operating temp, im going to change the thermostat. Btw has anyone flushed your coolant system and completely changed from G13 to G12 Evo-coolant? Do i have to change the coolant to G12 Evo because i dont have the expansion bottle that contains the silica bag anymore? My timing belt+water pump was changed 2020 with 125k km on the dash, thats when a lot of coolant was changed to new, but not all i think.

I would really like to hear from fellow diesel owners what kind of coolant temps they are getting in chilly weather? Im holding back on buying new parts, because still dont know for sure is my car faulty or not. The upper and lower grilles are pretty open in Vrs and when its cold weather, it cools the engine for sure with the cold air blowing. I have had this car for 2 years now and the two winters that have been, i have used a windguard in the lower grille and that helps to keep the engine warm below 0 Celsius. Theres only one thermostat and its a mechanical one not electric, so no fault codes coming from that one either i would think. Also the coolant temp sensor when read with Obd11 live data, shows in my opinion reasonable readings even though they differ from the cars temp meter by showing 5-10 Celsius lower readings when the needle starts to rise from 50 Celsius. I would think that if this was broken it wouldnt show nothing or off the scale readings, also there would be a fault code registered. Both parts are original from the factory. Am I correct that a faulty thermostat would fail so that its spring gets weak or breaks so that it stays open completely or partially?

Ok, thanks for the reply. So you are saying that your petrol car reaches over 90C after a 5 mile run, even in colder weather like 0-5 degree Celsius? Petrols do run warmer and also warm faster, yes?

And what I really want to know is my cars behaviour and the coolant temps normal before I go changing parts?

Thanks for the reply. I have watched videos and read from the web instructions how to change the thermostat and coolant temp sensor. They dont seem to be hard to replace, but the coolant bleeding process is pretty akward in this engine type. I have Obd11 but dont know if I can bleed it right with it? Any other suggestions for the possible fault? And tips for bleeding the coolant system?

Hello! My car is a late 2014 2.0 Tdi Vrs, engine code CUPA and 6-speed manual gearbox. Mileage at the moment is 210k km. Yesterday i noticed that my cars temperature gauge wouldn't reach the 90 degree mark. It was +5-7 Celsius outside when driving. I had just the day before yesterday removed a "windguard" from the lower grille in the front bumber. The windguard helps to get to operating temp faster and keep the engine warm during winter time here in Finland, i dont use the cars auxiliary heater/webasto when driving, only before starting the car when its minus degrees outside for like 15-30 mins. Ok, so today i took a drive and connected my Obd11 to the car and followed the coolant temperature while driving around. I was driving for 60-90 km/h for like 20 minutes and the coolant temp wouldn't rise over 70-71 Celsius according to live data in Obd11, the cars temp gauge read about 80-83 at the same time. I then went off to motorway and accelerated hard a couple times from 100-140 km/h and also drove in the motorway for maybe 10 minutes with a constant 120 km/h, Obd11 showed that temp wouldn't rise over 75 Celsius and the cars temp gauge was reading 90 Celsius, just in the middle of the temp gauge. The maxidot display showed that oil temp was 87-93 Celsius when driving in the motorway. I also put the heater on max temp and full blow from the top vents, the air was warm but not hot. The temp gauge and obd11 readings would drop by a few degrees this point, but would come up after putting the heater setting back to 22 Celsius and Auto-mode blowing. The outside temperature was also this day 5-7 Celsius when driving around. Do I have a faulty thermostat/stuck open, a faulty coolant temp sensor or something else? Or is it a normal operating temp for 2.0 Tdi when its early Spring outside temperatures here in Finland. Searching the web says that normal coolant temp is 75-105 Celsius, but i would have thought that if the car is Ok, it would reach about 90 Celsius real temp in normal driving when ambient temp is over 0 Celsius. The cars coolant level is ok and I have replaced my coolant bottle with the version that doesn't have the silicate-bag in it. I also don't loose coolant. Is there something wrong with my car or is this normal temps this time of the year? Thank you!

Check this out. I changed tired ten year old original struts to these. There is a Youtube installation video how to do it. Also i calibrated the boot to not open full lenght of the struts so they will last longer. But the issue of the original struts having too short wires is non-existent in the linked struts+they are more robust in my opinion also. https://power-tailgate.com/electric-tailgate-actuators-set-skoda-octavia-2012-2020-deffner-s52-left-right

Any more info or opinions???

Check my post above, i can recommend those what i linked earlier, if you have electric boot.

Anymore info/opinions about this topic?

English please😅

Check this out. I changed tired ten year old original struts to these. There is a Youtube installation video how to do it. Also i calibrated the boot to not open full lenght of the struts so they will last longer. But the issue of the original struts having too short wires is non-existent in the linked struts+they are more robust in my opinion also. https://power-tailgate.com/electric-tailgate-actuators-set-skoda-octavia-2012-2020-deffner-s52-left-right

Ok, so you mean u have 228hp for a year and everything is working fine still. No clutch slipping? Do you still have dpf installed? Are you happy with the tune? Any negative effects?

Any info?

Hello! I have a 2.0 Tdi Vrs MY2015 with a 6-speed manual. Engine code CUPA. For some time i have been thinking about getting a custom remap from a well known tuner here in Finland. They promise 220-230bhp and 450Nm. Sounds reasonable to me because the stock turbo doesnt give more what i have searched the internet. What i would like to know is that how much power and especially torque can the stock clutch handle if its in good condition and you drive it "the right way". The car has done now 204k km. Will the clutch slip anyway because of the tune or will it handle it? What about the 02Q-transmission? How robust is it? If anybody has some personal experience/info i would be most grateful. Im not planning going over stage 1 because its my daily driver. Oh and also is the petrol 2.0 tsi stock clutch the same as in diesel? Thank you!

That is true😅

When you say take it apart, what do you mean by that exactly? I have watched some youtube videos of removing the dpf from the engine bay for cleaning and that seems to be a big operation...lots of parts to be removed first to get the dpf out. Or am I missing something here?

Hello! I would just like to know that is the dpf always paired with catalytic converter, they are one piece? I mean in the 2.0 TDI engines CUPA/CUNA? Are the dpf and catalytic converter always welded together in these engine types or can the dpf be separated from the catalytic converter somehow? Is there a version of the dpf+cat where you can dismantle just the dpf canister for cleaning? Thank you.

Anyone?

Would something like this do the trick? There is a 50mm inner diameter version that could be compressed enough with hose clamps to get a tight fit. It says that it stands -40 to +93 celsius temperature, i think thats enough for intake air temp from the exhaust manifold? https://www.gates.com/jp/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/air-intake-and-defroster-hose.p.7768-000000-000000.html Or this one: It stands more of higher temperatures and says in the description that its used to connect hot air from exhaust manifold shroud to air cleaner. Its made of fiberglass aluminium, its different material than the original hose/pipe, but does it matter? https://www.gates.com/jp/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/air-intake-and-defroster-hose.p.7743-000000-000000.html

Hello. My car is 2014 Skoda Octavia mk3 2.0TDI VRS and engine code is CUPA. I was adjusting my gear shift linkage cables and when removing my air filter box i noticed that the smaller hose/pipe under the intake pipe had several holes in it. I think its called a pre heater hose thats used to help in cold starts. It draws warm air from the exhaust manifold to the air filter box. Is this hose only used in cold climate countries? I live in Finland. I am looking to replace this hose but can't find the part number for it anywhere. The hose is 130mm in lenght and the outer diameter is 48mm or close to it. I will attach some pictures of the hose, ignore the duct tape that i have used to fix the hose for now😅. If someone could get me the correct part number or a link to a some kind of universal hose that i could use in my car. Thank you!

Nvm...i got it🤣...and the washer line to the camera is working well now👍

Hi! Im installing high line reversing camera to my 2015 Skoda Octavia RS 2.0 TDI. I have already routed the cable from the boot to the behind of the infotainment unit in the glovebox. And also changed the handle in the trunk to the one with the camera fitted. Maybe next week will be doing the connections...have to do it outdoors and its raining every day atm 😬. So what im asking is that the camera has a washer nozzle also and the package i purchased came with pipes and a y-splitter to install it. The idea is to disconnect the rear washers original pipe and connect it to the y-splitter and from there use the provided pipes to connect back to the rear washer and the camera. How do i disconnect the rear washers pipe without breaking it?