Stoker

Somewhere between £27k and £28.5k I'd guess. Based I what was listed for our SE 1.0L 110PS DSG in October 23. Thats as close as I can get but I'm sure someone will be more precise. Try an on line sales site if you really want to know.

If the stop start activates and the engine has cut out I'm pretty Sure I feel hill hold rather than instant creep on the restart.

I agree with this, if you apply the hand brake the expectation is you use clutch and accelerator in conjunction with it on a manual box to do the hill start. Having hill hold assist negates the need to do a hill start hence no need to apply the handbrake at all on an incline. So it makes sense to me to have it activate from the footbrake only. With the DSG box even simpler. Foot brake to stop, if on enough of an incline hill hold assist activates and accelerator to go.

Sorry for the late reply but how did you get on with Marshals? If you haven't been there yet, is there an option in the menu to disable it I wonder? I haven't checked because I've only just seen your post but on my daughters Fiesta it can be disabled and just wondered if thats the case here.

By all accounts the OEM rear discs are made of chocolate and replacements from reputable brands make a big difference. I've not heard of the front brake/front tyre thing but on my VW California I got about 16k on the front from new and again, switching brand has seen over 30k miles on the 2nd set so its not necessarily a relationship between the two thing due heavy front braking bias that I know of.

Hi Veli88's post is old with a 2020 (or were about) Kamiq. All known issues of that era will have been addressed by now in new builds even if the fix is different to what Veli88 received. Congrats on your purchase I hope you enjoy it.

Thanks for this. It's a bit difficult to understand though. - Is the tail gate trim in 2 sections? i.e. upper and lower and you removed the lower one first or are you saying you started at the bottom of a single piece trim. - Then the plastic clips you mention, are they clips securing the rubber boot between the opening of the tail gate and car body that protects the wiring loom? -What are you trying to identify (which is which?) I'm sure it's the configuration of the way the rubber boot is attached to the car body but struggling to visualise a clip from a catch. Did you do this to install a rear dash cam?

By the differing opinions, driving style and the way people react to situations is obviously playing a part. There is also the subtleties that @SurreyJohn mentions feeding in to it all. Whats clear is, the lag exists and is an unusual and undesirable thing to have when you need to take advantage of gaps in the traffic that are smaller than desirable but about as large as traffic conditions permit. I'm going to concentrate a lttl more on the 'clever trickery' 😜 for a while and see how that goes.

I understand that something is connected to the OBD port that allows settings to be changed from incremental to direct throttle response but what is it? how much does it cost? can it go wrong? If yes, is it simple to reverse the action? for the sake of warranty isn't it better to stick sport mode?

I only say that due to the D1 lag and thought the 1.5 would stop it feeling weedy there. I have the DSG in my VW California and it doesn't have the same trait, it pulls with that diesel torque from the get go but I have the 150 PS not the 204 so in effect for the size/weight of that vehicle I have the baby engine.

If a 1.5 DSG SE doesn't stretch you financially it will do everything you mention comfortably in a reasonable tech spec. The Monte Carlo is a marmite thing for me. Love the outside don't like the inside and there is nothing in the drive to change the character from the the other models. We bought the 1.0L DSG SE Drive but typically only 1 teenager occasionally and it's fine too. I believe the DSG may be better matched to the 1.5 though and whilst not disappointed with the 1.0L I would go for that in preference but my other half does the needs vs cost accounting and it's her car really so I went with it. But to reiterate, it's fine and I enjoy it. You however, coming from manual may notice a 1st gear lag (D1) when pulling away in the 1.0L but if ever that bothers me I switch to sport mode (S1, 2 , 3 & 4) before knocking it back into drive and it is a different ball game.

I was just about to post a new thread to ask if anyone found Kamiq mudflaps to be worthwhile or whether they don't do anything noticeable then I saw this thread. Any longer term thoughts on their performance?

A good endorsement then to stay with one 👍 Enjoy.

I wouldn't rule out the poor reception given the false info about locking it and not finding the car but did you know that the lock / unlock feature needs an app setting to be authorised by your Skoda service garage? They need the registered car owners proof of ID and (I wish I could remember) some unique number that I think is to do with the app registration, sorry what ever that was escapes me. It's also worth taking both keys incase there are other things to finalise on the app that haven't been done. Also have you allowed the app access to your location from the settings on your device that has the app installed? (Phone?) I have no idea about the map setting.

I have just fitted my Dash Cam with a hardwire kit. Mine (Viofo 229 plus duo) has a parking mode so needs a permanent live fuse as well as a switched live fuse (ignition on). That feature threw up a challenge regarding the expected performance of the camera and what was really a permanent live fuse, it all got quite confusing no pun intended. Log story short, the amount of car starter battery drain during the process (which wasn't particularly long) effectively meant that the permanent live fuse selection was rendered useless and the camera powered down completely (acting the same way as a switched fuse) to ensure the starter battery was not going to be drained further. That sounds logical when you know but if you don't know its happening when you are fitting the dash cam then the assumption is one of 3 things. A ) perhaps I haven't chosen a permanent live fuse and this can be supported by what the fuse is there for to start with. I mean who would have thought a heated steering wheel would have a permanent live fuse instead of switched? B ) there is something wrong with the dashcam C ) some settings are wrong on the dash cam owing to poor Chinese translation to English After this failure, to try to be sure that I had a permanent live (Yes I did use a multi-meter and internet research first) I then chose 2 more fuses that also should have been permanent lives. Tested again and of course this was further decreasing the starter battery charge significantly enough to power down the dash cam despite the expectation that the permanent live feed would keep the dash cam powered in parking mode. The hardwire kit I have, has a battery protection setting switch and by now even on the lowest setting the dash cam did not stay powered on so I ruled that out. It was driving me nuts, of the fuses I had tried which included interior lights, the horn and the 12v cigar lighter after the heated steering wheel and they all had power when the ignition was off yet the dash cam had again powered down. So it turns out after a longer drive that I needn't have kept swapping fuse locations if I had just driven the car to recharge the battery after fitting the dash cam. I had it right first time. Once it was recharged and the ignition was off the dash cam now stayed powered for parking mode. That time is not continuous as you might suspect (as I did) it's dependant though on 2 things. 1) The length of time you set it to be live for in the settings which can range from 30 mins to 24 hours and will vary from dash cam to dash cam. 2) Where you set the battery protection switch to. I have set mine to maintain the charge fully so I have no idea how effective the parking mode will be at say 2 a.m. in the morning when the thieves are checking car doors. Hence I don't rate it as a feature / good reason to buy a particular dash cam. But finally I'm able to conclude that I was able to choose 2 empty fuse locations in my car to get things working correctly. Empty because I don't have that equipment the fuse locations are there for. It doesn't matter if they aren't empty but make sure you put the fuse adaptors the right way around to truly piggy back the original set up. When they are empty you will only get power one way around so you know if you have the adaptor that right way. If they are not empty and both fuses are in place you will get power but that doesn't mean it's correct. If they are wrong, then you are getting power to the dash cam after its gone through the original car fuse and then the dash cam 5amp fuse. Not best practise at all. But when you look at the fuse locations you can tell the line side from the load side by the metal tangs. Fuse 12 for the heated steering wheel is permanent live (I don't know why that would be but it is). Red cable to the one. Fuse 46 for the rear heated seats is switched live. Yellow cable for this one. Ground was easy to find an option. Black cable with open clamp for this. The battery protector I have left on 12.4V Chosen fuses See the right hand side of this fuse location has 2 metal tangs? that is the line side (Live) So the fuse adaptor (piggyback) lead needs to extend away to the left in this case. <------------ Access with the storage box and dash end panel removed.