red2

I don't know what it's for but if you can get hold of the wiring diagram for your vehicle, and you can find your way around one, you should be able to find the answer.

Hi. I am about to do my first ever oil and oil filter change on a 2012 Yeti, 2.0 tdi, 126 000 km. This engine has the oil filter with the big hex nut accessible from above. I have watched a few Youtube videos and they just replaced the oil filter from above, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that some people also do something from below the car - maybe drain the oil cooler ??? I work on a driveway so accessing things from below is a pain ( but I will if I have to - I can jack the car ). Two questions : 1) Can I just change the oil filter from above and consider the job complete ? 2) Is there anything at all that is done from below, that relates to an oil filter change ( perhaps something optional ) ? Thanks for the help. ( I am new to Yeti servicing ). Richard

You are absolutely correct. The invoices did in fact say "5W30". My apologies.

Thanks everyone. That gives me several things I can try. I will do an engine oil and filter change in the next few days and report back as to whether I have been able to reset the service message from the driver's seat. Rooted - I think you are right about it being set for Variable servicing as I managed yesterday to speak with the previous owner ( from new ) and he said he always waited for the "Service now ! " message to tell him the service is due. I looked back at the receipts of the garage that did the work hoping to see evidence that they used the correct "long life" oil ( VW spec 507 00 I think ) and all I could see was a vague " 10W30 full synthetic " on the receipt. I hope they used the proper oil given that some of the oil change intervals were as much as 26 000 km !

Austin 7, I am like you in that I try to avoid starting an engine for only a few seconds of running. I don't like the idea of the acidic condensates sitting in the engine and exhaust from short engine runs. Glad you got it sorted. Incidentally, I note you used the term "Clear Flood Mode". By chance, I first heard about this yesterday watching Youtube where a guy suggested using it to pre-fill new oil filters ( that were side mounted or angled downward so they couldn't be pre-filled by simple pouring before fitting ). I have no idea how common this feature is on new cars, especially Skodas, but this high-tech. stuff starts to grow on you, in my case, after years of being a Luddite 🙂.

Welcome Jo !

Welcome cDa !

Welcome ukiduki !

Welcome tooty57 !

I have a 2012 Yeti with 2.0 tdi engine and with 126 000 km on it. I acquired it about two years ago but have only recently started using it regularly. The dash is displaying the message "Service now ! " The last documented oil change was at 100 000 km and in mid-2019. Does anyone know how I can get rid of the "Service now !" message. ( I won't be taking the car to a dealer or garage as I have always done my own work. ) I am about to do an engine oil ( and oil filter ) change in the next few days. Will that somehow remove the dash message or do I have to do something else specifically ? Thanks.

In case anyone searches and arrives here, as I have just found out from my Skoda dealer parts man, the latest spec. coolant is now G12 Evo and from the parts man "does all models".

Hi everyone. I have recently changed the timing belt, water pump and associated pullys and bolts, etc. on a 2012 Yeti with 2.0 tdi engine. Approaching the hopefully successful completion of this job, yesterday I fitted the engine support plate, as shown in the photo. This bolts up to the iron engine block ( rear and lower bolts ) and to an aluminium housing ( front bolt ). All the bolts are 8 mm diameter and have a fair length of thread engagement ( 3 to 4 cm ). The factory manual tightening instructions are ( in sequence, rear bolt first, then lower bolt, then front bolt ) 40 Nm, followed by a further 180 degrees. There is also a warning in the manual that unless the sequence and full tightening to specs. is done, the engine support bracket will be stressed and may fracture. I followed the above instructions ( very time-consuming to do carefully ! ) but what perplexes me is that many Youtube videos show people tightening these bolts ( and others ), by hand i.e. estimating how tight they should be. Given the specific warning in the manual, I wonder if there are failures that occur when these procedures are not followed, or whether the manual''s method is over-kill. I know we probably can't link a failure ( e.g. broken engine support plate ) to not following the manual's instructions, but my question of any folks who may have done a timing belt change on a Yeti, is how did you choose to tighten the engine support plate bolts ? Are others out there strictly following the manual ( like I did ) ?

Adding this for information in case Search results show this : On my 2012 Yeti ( 2.0 tdi ), normal practice seems to be to jack up this side of the engine to gain access to the bolt. As I recall it's a few inches at maximum. The other side engine mount doesn't need any loosening, etc. Place a decent block of wood under the engine to distribute the jack load.

Old thread but for info. I am pretty sure that you were talking about an alternate design of tensioner ( also like the Gates one for the Yeti 2.0 tdi ) that does not have a locating tab that engages with the recess in the head, as the original Litens tensioner had. These alternate designs appear to rotate endlessly but I think they work once they contact the timing belt and then they hold their position and can be tensioned up against the belt. And I believe they do have a spring inside - the Gates one certainly does.

Hi everybody. I have a 2012 Yeti in very good condition with 2.0 tdi engine. I am in the final stages of a timing belt change and although I have done several belts on other vehicles, I have found this one to be quite a bit more involved. Having been previously somewhat confused with several aspects of this work, I am very grateful for the information I have now found on this forum which absolutely has changed the way I was going to do some things - most notably the tightening of the tensioner stud nut. I look forward to being part of this forum.