rbhelle

Happy wife, happy life! I concur G1980 😉

Well, if u ask any eastern european from low cost counties, they would argue that special tools are overly overrated and TOTALLY unnessecary, heheh. Eyemeasure and hammers do the trick 😆 Lots of videos on youtube 😉 Anyway, correct distance is up till 0,5mm from seal to plate according to vag specs.

It is for mounting it without risk of damaging it. Look at this link: Tdc is also to avoid timing issues with crankshaft position sensor since the seal needs to be mounted in a special way. All that is secured with the us of T10134.

I use locating pins/bolts, so no need for alignment. But yes no difference between dsg or manual when the equipment is right. G1980 and I discussed the difference if on does not have the tools you refer to. Aka lying on the floor wriggling the gearbox in place from chest as one can see many do on youtube. G1980 doesnt have all tools except jackstands and a garagejack I guess. It is a difference with manual 2wd box at 79kg and a dsg 4x4 at 135kg... I did a manual 04A 2wd box myself lying on the floor and lifted it up with the help of my knee to manouvre and support it in place. Easy peasy, but 135kg with transferbox....not som much 😉

2010 ish Octavia diesel 2wd from 1500-2500 gbp depending on rustmarks etc. And for that price more than often clutch and timing is not done. 4wd is more expensive. But I just bought and repaired a 2010 4wd octavia 125 000miles with timingbelt/waterpump, clutch issues. Did full service brake pads, haldex, oil filters, manifold issues, a/c issues and sold it for 4000 gbp. It was bought for 384gbp. Yes you heard it correct 384gbp 😀 It has to be said that the previous owner really wanted to get rid of it to the scrapyard. My expences on that one was 846gbp in parts. It went straight through norwegian MOT test.

I found the specs for the DQ250 when it comes to weight. 109kg empty, add 8kg oil and then the transfercase (appr. 15kg) altogether I guess you are looking at 135kg++ So not for everyone to handle lying on the floor with jackstands when it comes to mounting it back on I guess. So when I am doing my flywheel, I will disassemble the transfercase in-situ and empty all oils in both the dsg and front diff to save weight. My "gearboxjack" is actually a hydraulic MC lifter that max's out at 135kg.

You are lucky to not living in Norway, because up here the retail price for only changing the dual mass flywheel/clutchset on a manual 2011 4x4 skoda is 3072 GBP labour and parts included. And this is at a non brand workshop (but a recommended one). That is why so many of cars that have done 125 000miles (200 000km) or more are sold at pretty cheap pricing up here. The complete clutch packet and also timing/waterpump replacement is due when cars up here in norway reach that mileage. Timing belt/waterpump replacement at a wellknown non-brand workshop that uses premium parts is priced at approx 1153 GBP (labour/parts incl). So add that to the clutch and any person that doesn't do their own repairs, and there are many out of those here, you are looking to pay approx 4200 GBP+ when diesel cars from VAG/Skoda reaches those mileage numbers. People more than often chooses to sell the cars for less than 1900GBP on the used cars sales market. Dunno how it is in UK, but that is a fact in Norway due to high repair costs (it all went straight up noticably after corona pandemic and the war in Ucraine)

I use and pay for subscription to www.partslink24.com. This is in fact original deales parts database as long as you have the VIN number of your car. Especially VW, Audi, Skoda cars is very easy for me to find the exact original oe partnumber to use as a search in autodoc. Always get the correct part from them. Often people just trust what autodoc says based on car model, year and make. But that can actually vary a bit and the only viable search is to use oe number in autodoc. I pay approx 25 euro each month for my 1 year subscription and it has saved me a lot of PITA from returning or look at a wrong received part from them when under the car. But, I must also say, I do have 3-4 VW, Audi, Skoda cars that I do own repairs and maintenance on. So, for me, this subscription is not only optional for me, it is a "must have". Autodoc is by far the most affordable parts supplier in Norway, even if I have to wait 1-2 working weeks from order to delivery. Also in autodoc when using oe partnumber, I can choose what brand and quality I want. Often I end up with oe parts like Sachs, Lemförder, LuK, Bosch, Magneti Marelli, Valeo, Pierburg, Zimmermann, ATE/TRW, Mannfilters. But also Febi, Mahle, Meyle, SKF, Monroe, HEPU.

Oh dear, now after posting I notice that it is you G1980 😄 Well, we have discussed that job before 🤣

Let me guess: rear main crank shaft seal on the gearbox side??? Will need to lower gearbox and subframe if 4x4 and also putting the engine to tdc....8-12 hour labour for a 30minute job 80GBP seal....when all other factors are disassembled and ready for the seal...

Very easy to service. It is basically lile any other VW mk5/6 with either petrol or diesel engine. I do all servi e and repairs at home. Haldex service is extremely easy, same with dsg as well. Oil, brakes, fluids and all other filters etc is like walk in the park on these cars. Should mention that I have gearbox filler to do dsg service. Vacuum filler for coolant, timing belt locking tool, gearbox jack and engine jack, pressurepump for brake fluid and a scissor lift. Some special tools are required. But ones you have them, I would argue that Skoda is extremely easy to maintain. Use a couple of thousand quid to buy what you need and it is self earned almost immediately after your first major service+timing belt and dualmass flywheel job. And it is fun doing to 😀

They must be put into learning mode yes, and then adjusted manually before putting them out of learning mode. It is done via module 55 headlights basic settings in vcds. So guess the shop did that, if not, they did not fix your issue and perhaps also f....up your lights if vcds wasn't used properly...

I did replace flywheel on my daughters' VW Golf only with jackstands. No need to take down the subframe either. But again, that manual 2wd 5sp gearbox doesn't weigh that much. So on the floor using my knee as support, it went on and off quite easily. Couldn't have been more than 50-60kg.

Well, I wouldn't disagree with you on that one. I checked the repair manual now, and it is quite a job just to replace the oil seal. Engine must be at top dead center, so you will have to use some special tool there as well. Even in my home garage thats has a scissor lift and engine jack, there will be a full days job++ on this one. I just bought the T10134 special tool now from autodoc. Just under 87GBP for it and a new seal from Febi Bilstein I paid 43GBP. Again, your EGR cooler could last another 60-100 000 miles... I guess your engine had only 100 000 miles in it (160000km)? So, it may not be necessary to replace egr cooler just to be sure/preventive. On the other and, when all "****" is down on the floor, at least replace the dual mass flywheel that is almost a certainty that will fail within the next 25-50 000 miles (40-80 000km). To sum up what I pay to do all we have discussed is only premium parts: LuK dual mass flywheel: 252GBP EGR cooler: 130GBP Oil seal: 43GBP Febi Bilstein DSG service kit with 7ltr oil, bolts/gasket rings and filter for dsg: 80GBP Landing a total of approx 500GBP in parts. Planning to use a weekend on the job. Have done this 2 times before, so luckily I know what to do. I am using the electronic Elsawin repairmanual. So, there are a lot of money saved if you do it yourself. Actually, it is not that hard if you have some guidance from a friend or colleague. But, you really do have to have access to a proper carlifter and gearbox jack when we talk about diesel 4x4 dsg. Actually, haven't seen anyone on youtube doing this operation only with floorstands. Think it is a reason for that....

If you have dsg as well, I wouldn't even think about doing what you are planning without 4 post carlift or a scissor lift...I have my own scissor lift in home garage, so for me it is easy. Remember the dsg gearbox with transferbox weighs in about 100-125kg if not more. Not a pleasent one to handle on the floor with jackstands... Taking it dow is ok, but assemble it back in...its a pITA lying on the floor trying to maneuvre it with a garagejack...keep that in mind if you have dsg. Manual i lighter and one can disassemble the transfer box from the gearbox to save weight. Makes it easier. I have a gearbix jack that makes life much better, but it is still a bit struggle to get it on due to the weight.

Because on mine with 221 000km it is going to fail sooner or later. It is a very common fail on skodas. Since mine is a 4x4 DSG you have to take down the gearbox to access the egr cooler. The part itself is maybe 100 GBP, but the labor....puh, 6-7 hours. So, I replace it just to be sure when the gearbox is down for other reasons 😀

Are u using the special vag tool when replacing the seal? I need to replace my dualmass flywheel anytime soon (parts already in pøave in my garage) and will do the egr cooler when things are disassembled anyway. Also thought about just replacing the drive shaft seal on the gearbox side. But will need a special tool called VW T10134... are u using that tool as well?

But, hey, mine is a 2011....so yoirs is 2014. It could be that the partnr are different. So stick with your original post partnumners. Cant go wrong mate. I would if I were you 🙂

Well, look at this pic from my superb. There you see the fill plug for the haldex where my finger is pointed, and that is exactly the same as the drain plug on the rear diff (marked in red ring to the right). Have no picture of the fill plug, but hey're the same N90281802. At least thats how it is on my 2011 superb with engine cffb, and haldex 4 system. Guess it it pretty much the same on the 2013. But do take a look underneath your car just to be sure. Better safe than sorry mate 😀

Rechecked now... N90281802 is for both front and rear filling plug differential, it is also for the drainhole on the rear diff. 02M409057 is for the drain hole on the front diff (not the rear diff). So yeah you are buying the xorrect ones 😀

02M 409 057 this bolt I am not sure about. I ordrered the first 2, N902 818 02

Well, those bolts are the same as I ordered for my superb, so they will fit. Actually, those bolts can be reused as long as you replace the washer ring (copper washer) and the bolt itself isn't overly rusteaten.

Same happended to me yesterday. had done a full complete DMF, clutch and pressure plate replacement. Also new concentric slave. When all was assembled, I started the bleed process with pressure brake bleeder kit. All good until I heard a small "pop" and all fluid fluid drained out through the bell housing. Well, I suspected a faulty concentric slave from supplier. Down with gearbox again. All was done within 1,5hours since I this time knew what bolts and how to get the gearbox separated quickly. Subframe down, cables disconnected, propshaft down, drive axles out, loosen the dpf a bit and finally loosen all bolts. Actually, it was quite pleasing to do the disassembly this time thinking about the hassle I had the first time (took me about 3 hours to get the m...fuc.... down and out. Got a new concentric slave from supplier today and will assemble the s...t later today and bleed the clutch again. This time, hopefully with a concentric that is ok.