rbhelle

Well, have you checked the oil level?

Hopefully its just a bad water pump or sloppy job. That should be fixed free of charge. But you should be able to locate the leak if it is from water pump and also from egr cooler. Lets cross fingers that it is the case.

Leak from heater core inside car? Leak from egr cooler between engine and bevelbox? Last one is not a funny job to do. Need to take down the whole shebang on 4x4...but if you are handy and have tool required, shouldn't be overly bad. Of dealer have to do it, well hope you have savings to use. Its a 7 hour job plus parts, coolant, bolts etc. Probably 1500-2000 gbp.

That shot doesn' t work...but hey, everyone wants to be fooled 😉 Mechanical cleaning works, santa claus doesn't exist....

I also have 4 cars from VW group that has seen their share of repairs, maintenance. My 2 cents is when a car passes beyond 200'km or 160'miles, it is better to do preventive maintenance as you listed than to wait. Because from 200-250'km things start to break down. At least here in norway. So, I do all my repairs myself in own garage with ****load of tools and a big scissor lift. So, i probably saves a lot of money and time to worry if car will breal down during holiday/vacation trips. Anyway, on VAG cars, also Skoda as it is a VAG car, from 250'km I would replace the following if I bought a old car with that high mileage in addition to what you have on your list: 1. All suspensions and maybe springs as well with new nuts/bolts and dampers. They will probably fail anytime soon or has already failed but you haven't noticed it 2. Complete dmf and pilot bearing together with crank seal gearbox side. Its a guarantee fail very soon of never replaced. Maybe you have som rattling already? 3. EGR cooler. Its just stupid not to replace it when doing dmf. Will fail soon and just when you least want/expect it. 4. Manifold flaps and do clean the throttle valve please. Just open ot up and see, I bet it is clogged as f....and also do the mod on the intake from the exhaust pipe into the egr valve. 5. Replace all glow plugs, likely a fail if not already on 1 or more. 6. Replace all stabilisator link from suspension strut to stabilisator. 7. Check the level of diff oil on front rear diff (if 4x4) and clean the haldex pump, house replace haldex oil and filter. 8. Replace dsg thermostat (located under/beside battery tray) 9. Replace engine thermostat (typical fail on vags when above 250'km) 10. Buy door locks and rear door lock actuator, maybe also fuel flap filler actuator since these do fail when reaching 300'km (just keep them stored until the day you need them) 11. Heater core os a known problem, so it is possible to have this in store as well. 12. Also check the nut on the AC compressor as tjese a known to fail (the get loose over time until failure). If nut/bolt is loose, just tighten it to specs. What I would't care about: Everything that has to do with appearence like styling, rims etc. On a old high mileage car, those things should come as 2nd priority. Worry about what matters 😉

Yes, this is normal if precautions are ignored. I live in northern norway and pretty colder here than in uk. So with precautions I mean these: 1. Charge your 12v battery 100%. Make sure that battery is no more than 2-3 years if car os used (you never know what former owner did) 2. Now, start using your webasto. 3. Run time should be minimum 20-25min, maximum 45min. This due to avoid soot build up and unneccesary battery drainage. 4. Drive car preferably for as long as you have used webasto, minimum. E.g. use 30min, then drive 30min to avoid tear and wear on battery. If not applicable, read nr 5-6. 5. Use a battery charger and connect your car up at least once a week if you use webasto twice every workday. 6. Buy new expensive Bosch, Sønnak or other premium manufacturer every 5 year if you are not able to do the above mentioned car/maintenance tasks. Try to avood lead acid, use EFB batteries or even better AGM with highest possible ah that will fit your battery tray. 7. Use webasto for 30min once each month during summertime just to keep it in shape. And yes, I live and use my 2011 superb in a cold, snowy and icy environment. Biggest failure to guarantee webasto replacement is driving short distances and lots of start/stop. That will clog it up in no time and new cost 1500 gbp with labour (norway). Webasto is from factory programmed to start with ignition when ambient temp is below 4 degrees celcius.

Good one, I think people tend to do either way; follow service intervals as officially recommended by dealer, by unofficial intervals recommended by the mechanics that work at dealer or just believe in god that mechanical parts in connection with eachother in an unpermissive environment has a magic fluid that solves all problems when parts interacts with one another within specs. Anyway, I tend to tell myself that "remember rbhelle, they all want to make some money on you, one way or another, how much is just a matter of time" 😁 Btw, I do remember that dealers also stated that "filled for life" was/is a thing... If I remember correct, axle oil on a 4x4 VW/skoda/audi bevelbox and rear diff is "filled for life", right?

If your car is 2008-2014 I guess you have Haldex 4, which means you do have filter. If 2015 and newer most likely you habe Haldex 5 and that version does not have filter. Anyway, in both situations, they do have a haldex pump and that pump has to be cleaned. Especially the attached filter on the pump itself. If this gets clogged up with "gunk" the pump will fail due to excessive activation without pressure release and burnt circuits etc. This implementation in VAG service routine for the haldex 5 is a checkpoint, but was not for the haldex 4 in the beginning. So, do replace both filter and clean haldex 4 pump and clean haldex 5 filter attached on pump (doesn't have own filter except the tiny small one on the pump itself). So, to the intervals. 60'km tends to be too long even if thats what VAG tells you. The gunk build up starts immediately after service and accumulated gunk over time gives bad working conditions for the pump. I would argue that haldex 4 and 5 should be serviced once a year no matter miles/km as long as the car is used on a daily basis. The oil is cheap and the haldex 4 filter is not a costly buy. On haldex 5 there isn't even a filter to replace. Very easy access also for a diy. DSG (6-7 spd wetclutch version) should be serviced 60'km/every 3 years. That should be sufficient for a daily driver. I guess there are only a few of us that services this more often, like every 30'km/2 years (typically a diy with equipment and knowhow). Timing belts, there are variations depending on the engine type. But with common rail 1,6/2.0 tdi from 2.gen I do believe that every 210'km/10 years is what is said to be the interval, but i replace mine every 150'km/5 years. It is much cheaper to do it that way instead of buying a new engine due to timing belt failure. A CR tdi engine with timing belt failure is doomed immediately, whereas a PD tdi engine might be saved from catastrophic failure if you manage to shut it down to a complete stop within seconds. That last part is not something I personally know, but what experienced mechanics will argue. Why it is lile this with cr vs pd engines someone else must answer.

Yes, have dsg dq250 wet clutch. But no epb, just regular. Its just as you said, each on their own. 🙂

With dsg it is just annoying and probably wears out pads faster. Mostly annoying. I can clearly see the benefit with stickshift, but dsg? Well, someone must tell me why. Dsg needs to hold foot on brake to engage, and voila, once engaged in D, it holds pretty well. Even in steep terrain.

Coded away my hill assist, much better now. I hated it, but also habe dsg.... Kept xds and that is somethong thats does the work. But hill assist on a dsg? No way Jose. If module in abs is installed, one can find it in 02 ABS, long coding, bit 16 and 17 (in vcds)

Did you code the new with the old modules codes? And takem a drive, then read out and deleted faulty codes and checled again?

And a big YES to getting a genuine VCDS cable. Not a china copy. You will in the long run save A SUBSTANTIAL amount of money doing your own diagnosis and adjustments. Why any diy driving any VAG product does not buy their own vcds, is to me, not understandable...just imagine what money people would have saved if they just did their own diagnosis and adjustments when I read about all "minor" problems forum user in here have been faced with, and asked about again and again... 🙂 Are you driving a VAG equals Get a VCDS scanner (genuine) Its nothing more to say about it actually 😉

Norwegian dealers: Dsg service 60 000km/3 years LL Engine Oil service 20-30 000km/2 years or when car says its time. Haldex service 60 000km/3 years Front/rear diff: No change (lifelong) Break fluid every 2 years Timing kit max 10 years/210'km My 2cents about general common sense service intervals on any VAG diesel engine/car (those who want their car to last well beyond 5 year warranty): Dsg oil/filterservice: 30'km/2 years Engine oil/filter: minimum 15'km/yearly (I do mine every 6 month/10'km) Haldex including pump cleaning: 15'km/yearly Front/rear diff: actually no specific, but I do mine every 3 years or so/no more than 60'km Break fluid: every 2 years Timing kit w/water pump: every 5-6 years/150'km

New update: did not read that you have the front wheels up from ground. That is not too bad play. I also have some play on both my wheels, maybe not as much as you got. But, a little bit yes. Wow, that was more play than it is supposed to be. I would really recommend to check wheel bearing and both outer and inner drive shafts. Also check lower control arm nuts and bolts. If all is good, it could be something inside the bevelbox since you habe 4x4. Do check the inner axle drive shaft that there are 6 bolts M10 xzn and all are present and tightened. I could be wrong of course, but I have not experienced that much play on drive shaft/wheel...

Wow, that was more play than it is supposed to be. I would really recommend to check wheel bearing and both outer and inner drive shafts. Also check lower control arm nuts and bolts. If all is good, it could be something inside the bevelbox since you habe 4x4. Do check the inner axle drive shaft that there are 6 bolts M10 xzn and all are present and tightened. I could be wrong of course, but I have not experienced that much play on drive shaft/wheel...

Car was sold in June, did all the listed and car was exeptionally well done. Got 4500 for it due to a bad Webasto (aux heater) It had to be completely replaced, so that was something I left to the buyer. All well informed about the issue of course.

Well, that is correct if you take down whole subframe. It is difficult to get it back up exactly on the same memory marks as it was without these locating guiding pins. So a 4-wheel alignment will likely correct any steering disturbance and excessive tear and wear on the tyres.

New bevelbox/transmission arrived today. It was bolt on and after test drive, it is smooth!! To sum up, what tip is my best? Well, firstly, when working on transmission on a 4x4 tdi with DSG DQ250 and a webasto aux heater installed, 2 things really makes life easier. Take down the subframe. This gives you a lot of room. Take out DPF. With these 2 ****ers out, the rest is piece of cake. What tools saves money? Get a Sonic Insex 8mm ROUND head 140mm long. Partnumber: 83014008. This little ****er is a life saver!!! Buy locating guiding pins for the subframe. Using these will save you from doing a 4-wheel adjustment when subframe is assembled. Special tool partnumber is VW T10096. These are a no-brainer if you plan to do anything on your car infvolving subframe take-down. A looong 6mm hex bit socket, 355mm long. VW T10107A. This is used to undo the right bevelbox drive flange. On a DSG box, this has to come off in order to get the bracket loose. There is NO other way around it with tdi diesel and DSG DQ250 trans. Buy a Dremel like tool with metal cutter blades. Cut off the above mentioned famous bolt. Replace bolt with a shorter one, M10x1,5 threads. It is impossible to remove that on 2.0tdi with DSG DQ250 if not cut OR if you prefer to take down the whole DSG, be my guest, because that is what VW manual says. Cut it and replace, then remove bevelbox in-situ. Saves at least a couple of hours. Prybar. Use it to take out right bevelbox flange axle (goes all the way through the bevelbox) XZN (spline) 10 bits that has a 100mm long shaft. Makes it easier to take out 6 spline bolts on drive shaft. A lot easier actually. Good luck! So, my old bevelbox 0AV 409 053T is now garbage and the new slightly used (123 000km from 2014) 0AV 409 053AF is now operational. I estimate just replacement in situ to be approximately on my car is 4h of work on a scissor lift/lying on the floor. With 2 post lift a lot faster.

Hi guys. New update, yes!!! I found the fault based on thorough diagnose and elimination of possible symptoms. I hate to start repacing parts as a deduction method, since it basically is ectremely time consuming and often a pricey path to follow. Bevelbox output propshaft needle bearing has totally collapsed, I mean, totally shattered the outer parts towards the proshaft connection. No damage to the left right gearbox axle or the drive axle inner axles. Puuh, so I purchased a used bevelbox 0AV 409 053 AF (original was T). And friends, a tip. If you have a 4x4 tdi with manual trans, it is no problem to replace bevelbox in-situ. Even the last bracket bolt (lower one on engine) is removeable whem the right drive flange is out. But, if you have a DSG, that last bolt makes it impossible to get the same bolt out due to a larger gearbox. The solution without removing the whole gearbox assembly is as follows: Remove right bevelbox drive axle flange with a loooong hex 6. Take axle out, and remove the 3 bracket bolts. The last bolt needs to be cut off. Replace with a 8.8 M10x1,5 threadsize shorter one, so it can be used with the bevelbox in-situ. Now, remove the turbo oil pipe bolt with a 27mm wrench and the upper guiding bracket with a T30 bit. Lay pipe aside and now, the bevelbox bracket will come out. This leaves enough room to remove the most inner bolt that fix the bevebox to the dsg transmission housing. Yes it is tight, but use a long 140mm insex/hex 8 round head on that bolt (it is a 16mm bolt, but no way possible to fit a 16mm pipe there). I used a Sonic insex round head no 8 140mm. Then remove last 3 bolts and voila, the bevelbox is loose without removing the dsg. Oh, forgot to mention that you need to remove dpf and subframe first, but that is almost a routine when doing any job concerning dsg, trans and egr cooler on a tdi. Attached are the pics of my shattered bevelbox. Fixed all within 2 hours and replacement bevebox in transit. Paid 340GBP for new and labour is free since I do the job myself. Probably saved more than 4000 GBP compared to if all had to be done at dealer. Maybe even more...

Will try to take out bevelbox in-situ. Borrowed a long round head hex pipe 1/2 to reach the inner 16mm bolt connected to the main dsg gearbox. It is a pita to reach, but time will show. If it doesnt work, there is no other way around than to take down whole dsg....again.

Updated today. New bevelbox/transmission box aquired from used carsale. Approx 300gbp shipping included. OE partn 0AV 409 053 AF. So starting today to take out and down the old bevelbox.

Update: yup, the bevel gearbox is probably gone. Leaks out metaloil from the propshaft flange. A lot of oil. So guess the gears are baaad. So need to replace bevelbox.